13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrake pedal going to floor
Leading reported evidence
Install fluid (gold) and rebled brakes
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Well took wheels off again and there is allot of black buildup looks like dust so I cleaned rotors (did not remove pads) installed new fluid (Gold) and rebled brakes with no leaks noticed and they pump up but when I drive they are still soft and want to go to floor.
Leading evidence: 'Install fluid (gold) and rebled brakes' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check no air gets back in' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I Installed new pads from europe with ceramic in them forget the name but after 25 miles or so they seem spongy and go almost to the floor so I reblead and retest same thing.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am rebleeding using the brake pedal which always worked on my other cars.
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Suggestion
The nice thing is once you bleed a car using a pressure bleeder, you will never want to go back to the pedal method again.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Well took wheels off again and there is allot of black buildup looks like dust so I cleaned rotors (did not remove pads) installed new fluid (Gold) and rebled brakes with no leaks noticed and they pump up but when I drive they are still soft and want to go to floor.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I Installed new pads from europe with ceramic in them forget the name but after 25 miles or so they seem spongy and go almost to the floor so I reblead and retest same thing.
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T142254Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Man do not get it
I Installed new pads from europe with ceramic in them forget the name but after 25 miles or so they seem spongy and go almost to the floor so I reblead and retest same thing. Well took wheels off again and there is allot of black buildup looks like dust so I cleaned rotors (did not remove pads) installed new fluid (Gold) and rebled brakes with no leaks noticed and they pump up but when I drive they are still soft and want to go to floor. The fluid level never drops. I am rebleeding using the brake pedal which always worked on my other cars. At a loss anyone?
You may be sucking air back in the lines on the pedal uptake. Connect a hose to the bleeder and put in a coke bottle so fluid gets sucked up, not air. Get an assitant to check no air gets back in. Or get a Motive brake bleeder.
Yes, I had a friend push the brake down while I had the valve open then closed when down on the up pedal no air was getting back in. I also use a clear 2 ft bleed line while I watched it go into clear container. Anyone have the brake valve go bad up by the resevoir I am assuming it has one?
The black powder was odd but it occured on all 4 and it did not seem greasy. Having greasy pads I would think would not effect how far I had to push the pedal. Just trying to isolate. If I have to take pads out can they be cleaned?
First, you can't bleed a 996+ by the traditional pedal method. There are 1-way electro-magnetic valves for the fluid circulation to the master cylinder that are part of the ABS system that have to open for fluid return for the pedal method to work. The problem is they don't open. Hence, you can only force fluid through them from the supply side. The only way to bleed the brakes, as stated in the factory service manual, is to use a pressure brake bleeder. You need to pick one up or take it to a Porsche dealer, etc. to have it bled properly.
The braking system is a very high pressure system and is supposed to be bled with a pressure of 1.5 bars (about 22 psi) applied to the fluid reservoir per the service manual. Hopefully you have only added air to the braking system as you can actually damage the master cylinder by pedal bleeding the system (this warning is stated in the service manual). I would recommend to pressure bleed it with at least 1 full bottle of new brake fluid. Most Porsche parts places (non-dealers) carry Motive pressure bleeders for about $50. The nice thing is once you bleed a car using a pressure bleeder, you will never want to go back to the pedal method again. It is far easier and faster to bleed the brakes with a pressure bleeder. Best of luck.
i dont either but ive seen it a few times, you can bleed a 996 with the pedal mthod just fine, and you only can damage the master on high milage cars if you allow the pedal to travel to the floor