New Clutch and Flywheel and still slipping!

Did the spring removal mod on the clutch pedal of my 2000 996 last week. Thought the clutch was starting to go prior to this and it did a few days later. Took it to my indy who I have little experience with. $1300 for a clutch job. Calls me and says it looks like the clutch was replaced recently , but the flywheel is scored beyond repair. Ok, so new dual mass flywheel, sachs clutch disc and pressure plate, flywheel pilot bearing, upgraded RMS and fix a window regulator too. While i'm going broke had him change the plugs as the electrodes on the one he pulled for me were flattened out and looked original. $3155 total. Picked the car up as the shop was closing at 5pm. He says he drove it with the spring mechanism on it and off and liked it better without it so gave it to me. Thought it was ready to wring out . I test the window that he replaced the regulator on and it isnt as smooth as before it went out. I show it to him and he says to exercise it some and if i dont like it bring it back. Thats the easy part. I drive the car for 10 miles and the clutch is not right. As I shift through the gears the rpms continue to rise as I shift with my foot of the throttle and the clutch depressed. Didnt do that before. Then it does'nt pull like before as I go from 1st to 2nd. Lastly, as i run at 4000 rpm and stomp it , it is clearly not hooking up like it did before either. Of course , by the time I got back to the shop at 530 , its closed. I am livid to say the least. Now I will be at his door when he opens and try to be amicable, but I am not warm and fuzzy with this guy. I thought he was solid as I took the car to him when i first got it and got an oil change and had him check it out. I should have researched more before finding a good pcar mechanic. He has a 930 turbo of his own, but works on Jag, MBZ and BMW as well. My mistake. I have since found someone in San Clemente who is supposedly the best around , but here i am. Furthermore, I asked him about the cruise control and adding a spacer since the pedal spring was removed and he said it should work now. Not so. Upon inspection I found the cruise switch unhooked and looped under a loom to the side. Any advice. I think I'm going to puke.

he sounds like a butcher.... have him fix it till you are satisfied not paying anymore than you already have. He might of fumbled with the pedal potentiometer which is located under the dash. I found that removing the helper spring is not good enough since it leaves slop on the pedal and has a tendancy to not make contact with the CC switch, making it useless. I installed a weaker helper spring just enough to get rid of the slop but not strong enough to make the pedal feel to light.... once he fixes the problems......write him off!

Really doesn't sound good. The manual says checking end position there shouldn't be any movement when pulling back on the pedal. I guess redoing the boost spring would make slack there. I'm still a little confused after reading some of the brake fluid bleeding is done at the clutch slave cylinder bleeder. Is there a difference in slipping between first start cold and after warmed up?

clutch is REALLY simple. Not may things there to go wrong. Only one I can think of that a person **might** be able to do is put the disc in backwards. other than that, he really didnt do the work, the pedal is hanging up or the slave is acting goofy. Exercise it = get the **** outta here, I dont know whats wrong with it and I wanna go home. or, Yeah a saw that, but I want paid, so here is a bone, now pay me and I will jerk you off again in 30 days.

If your car is a pre April 2000 build, you may have the old design of the release lever which is known to casue slippage. Sounds like you have a bigger problem but the lever should have been replaced also.

Well after a long night of stewing on my problem, I calmed down and finally got the clutch pedal return spring assembly back in. Guess what? The clutch now works like it should. I have the old flywheel and clutch assembly and it looks like there was 50% of the disc left. Now i have a new flywheel and rms, but no confidence in the guy who did the work. I did hot laps for an hour and I am happy. I guess it was a $3ooo lesson on being very selective and doing my research on a mechanic before giving him my car. I will take the car elsewhere to have the window fixed right, because i want this guy nowhere near my car. Redridge, you mentioned the potentiometer under the dash. Does removing that spring affect its operation. In my case it appears it did. It came out easy enough, but putting it back in was frustrating until i slept on it and went back to it with a clearer head. A cut up head, but clear. Ok, got to go work some more to pay for my stupidity. Thanks again for the replies and input, I appreciate it.

Next time do it yourself and when it screws up, your fist is on inches away from the head you want to pummel!

ya gonna get rid of the "extra parts"

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oh boy...

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always thinking.......just NO direction to any of the thoughts

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So your clutch was slipping due to the missing clutch pedal spring assembly, and not something the indy did? At least part of your problem was resolved.

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I guess that Indy really sucks, sheesh I find it amazing that once you replace the return spring all the problems went away and the car was actually 100% the whole time, yet it is still his fault. Something to think about. Also, x100 on needing the release lever on the earlier cars.

Kind of seems some of the designed clutch engagement pressure is derived from the hydrolics system if the clutch pedal not returning all the way doesn't cause a good lock up. There is also possibly high ratio of pressure derrived from the slave cylinder which just a little bit of pressure on the system from the pedal pressure would cause a little disengagement. I know a guy shouldn't even rest a foot on a clutch pedal or risk burning the clutch.

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NEW RELEASE LEVER IS A MUST on the older cars... went through that problem with my mechanic... he did the job again with new release lever... problem solved... the symptoms were high rpm slippage and a slower 1st to 2nd acceleration due to slippage during the gear change...

Does anyone have a pix of the old vs the new.(release lvr) I didnt change mine. So i am wondering if mine has the new one. My clutch was changed at 15000 miles before I just did this one at 104K

It makes absolutely no sense that removal of the clutch pedal assist or booster spring would have any effect on whether the clutch slips or not. Yes the spring is attached to the clutch pedal, but its only function is to make the pedal easier to disengage. It has no effect on the point of engagement or the psi the pressure plate exerts on the friction disc. If the slave cylinder needed to be bled it would cause the clutch to not fully disengage and would have no effect on slipping or not. Sounds like there may be some confused issues at best or we're not hearing the entire story. You stated earlier, "As I shift through the gears the rpms continue to rise as I shift with my foot off the throttle and the clutch depressed." If your RPMs rise with your foot off the throttle, you may have a floormat or other obstruction keeping the gas on. Maybe the dreaded "Toyota throttle syndrome" lol. Anyway that is NOT a sign of a slipping clutch. And yes to make the cc function as it should and to eliminate the excessive freeplay in the pedal a weak spring should be fit to eliminate any lash. Exercise the window, if your not happy take it back and have him tweek it. Good luck.

that might void your IMS thread status

The mechanic is a terd, and i don't see the point in naming him until I resolve this. I don't trust someone who cant properly repair a window, or disconnects something and hides it. I am not adding to the story or leaving anything out. I explained the situation with the spring prior to the work being done. Would'nt a reputable mechanic start with the least expensive fix first? The giant red flag is he claims to have driven the car and claimed its ready to roll. There is also still a chatter at take off. TO bearing? I asked him if he recommended changing the AOS while the car is apart , and he said " Im not pulling the engine." As my bill got higher , I told him with my current luck, I was leary of changing plugs as he might find bad coil packs. He says he never saw any bad ones in his career. If I pay top dollar , I expect good work and fair service. Am I wrong with this expectation? I have seen more than one unscrupulous mechanic. Yet I get the impression some of you think I'm the one who is full of ****. Just like most message boards, there are all types on here. I appreciate the positive feedback. I will post an update when I get this finalized.

I think some guys are worried that you kinda went in two feet first on the mechanic. Alot of us try to use the forum diagnosis prior to spending any cash on a mechanic who could be biased in his opinion (depending on what they want to do).

Wow! Good luck resolving this. Do tell afer its over so we can all avoid him..

Nick49 has a point on issues I didnt pick up on. I have to agree something isnt right here. May I add Clutch Chatter is usually from a flywheel issue. Either this wrench REALLY did a bone head move, cheated you out of new parts or we do not have accurate info from the OP. Did you get your old parts back?