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YOUR RESEARCHClutch Gone at 30K?
Leading reported evidence
Replace clutch at about 30k
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I replaced my clutch at about 30K, because I had the transmission out for other reasons.
if your car is used for primarily around town driving 25-30k is normal, however if its primarily highway use have seen them get as much as 80k if driven properly and not abused...as he said "I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast?
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch at about 30k' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ) how is it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Once you get your clutch replaced, get into the habit of "rev matching" before you put the tranny into a lower gear.
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Suggestion
I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast?
if your car is used for primarily around town driving 25-30k is normal, however if its primarily highway use have seen them get as much as 80k if driven properly and not abused...as he said "I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast?
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Suggestion · Original poster
They replaced the "rear crankshaft seal." That's the same as the rear main seal I hope?
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Suggestion
I wouldn't make a habit of "testing" what sounds like a slipping clutch.
if your car is used for primarily around town driving 25-30k is normal, however if its primarily highway use have seen them get as much as 80k if driven properly and not abused...as he said "I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast?
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2002 C4 Cab with 30K miles. (Second owner -- purchased with 12K.) Downshifting to 4th, RPMs spin high, does not accellerated properly. Now appears to do it in lower gears. Could the clutch be going out at only 30K? Oddly, condition seems to improve after car runs for 10 minutes or so. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
When you downshift, your rpm's SHOULD go higher if maintaining the same speed. Do a redline upshift from 2nd to 3rd and if it grabs immediately, you're fine.
If you have more info, I'm sure someone on this board can help. When you say it doesn't accelerate properly what does it do i.e. starts to accelerate and then the rpm's shoot up and speedo doesn't?
1) Is the C4 hard to get in gear?
2) Any slippage going up through the gears?
3) Pedal Control - spongy, loose or tight?
4) Bearing noise?
5) Chatter when clutch engages
6) signs of Oil from RMS (yikes)
7) smell?
Good luck!
Yes, you are exactly right: when I punch the throttle after shifting (up or down), the tach shoots up, but speedo doesn't. Eventually accelerates normally in that gear. The answers to questions 1 through 7 are no, except that I'm not sure what "slippage" feels like (unless it's what I'm describing here). The transmission definitely grabs when I shift, but then it accelerates as though the clutch is partially engaged, if that makes any sense. Thanks for your help.
Most likely not the disc, but a binding release lever. Most often when your clutch slips because of the disc, it will NOT grab until you let off the gas. Porsche's design of the clutch system is pretty poor, especially the release lever.
But, either way, you will need to tear dowm the tranny from the engine to find out, so replace everything anyway. DO NOT do a clutch job without installing the new release lever. No grease on ball journal.
Sounds like a wore out clutch to me. Mine is starting to go also, and it slips when I'm powershifting up thru the gears (keeping gas pedal down and high revs between up-shifts) after a hard launch. It happens sometimes hitting second and third like that. By the way, my clutch has 104k miles on it now.
Once you get your clutch replaced, get into the habit of "rev matching" before you put the tranny into a lower gear. This will save your synchros and prevent undue stress on your drivetrain.
Most of the guys I know say that the best test is going thru the gears......putting it in third and hitting the gas...if the rpm's shoot up but the car doesn't accelerate....it's clutch time.
I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast? Is this your first manual transmission car? I guess those of you that have described "power shifting" your cars have already given me an answer. These aren't drag cars, they aren't designed to be driven that way, it's a track car. If you want to do do burn outs and power shifts buy a Mustang GT.
I replaced my clutch at about 30K, because I had the transmission out for other reasons. The existing one was in really good shape. Only about half the miles were on the track, though.
if your car is used for primarily around town driving 25-30k is normal, however if its primarily highway use have seen them get as much as 80k if driven properly and not abused...as he said "I'm at 36,000 miles with 60% clutch left (just had RMS done and they checked) How is it that you are burning up your clutch so fast? Is this your first manual transmission car? I guess those of you that have described "power shifting" your cars have already given me an answer. These aren't drag cars, they aren't designed to be driven that way, it's a track car. If you want to do do burn outs and power shifts buy a Mustang GT.
Other than a faulty part or a defect in your clutch 'system', there seems to be several low mileage clutch replacements reported. Are you launching hard, riding the clutch or abusing the car when you drive? Otherwise these clutches should last for much higher mileage. I also understand that RMS replacements might warrant an early clutch replacement.
I wouldn't make a habit of "testing" what sounds like a slipping clutch. If overheated by clutch slipping (e.g. punching the car and having the revs go up while the car slowly accelerates), the flywheel can get burnt necessitating a new one at around $1k. This changes what is typically a $12-1500 job into a $22-2500 job.
The indy also told me that pedal effort will increase as the 996 clutch disc wears due to diminished mechanical advantage from the lever arm. My clutch pedal effort has increased but hasn't shown slippage yet so I'm going to wait a little while, 31K on the odo now.
Clutch life will vary widely with the type of driving and terrain. Doing the 10-15 mph crawl on an AM commute on hills will definitely diminish clutch life whereas leaving it engaged on a highway commute contributes minimal wear. While it might stroke the ego to associate long clutch life with driving prowess, sometimes it really doesn't have all that much to do with talent.
So in short, I'd get it looked at right away and try to avoid burning up the flywheel.
Good luck,
Tonger
What are some of you guys getting on the other end? I have 62k on my clutch (orig.) how much longer can I expect it to last?
I am guessing the BoxsterS is the same clutch as the 3.4???
I've got the impression that this is really subject to your driving style. Guys on this board have clutches with six figure mileage on them. Mine was replaced when I bought the car at 46,000 of your Yankee miles, for reasons I can only speculate had to do with sloppy city driving habits on the part of the PO. First clutch I ever bought in more than two dozen cars...
Thanks everybody. Took it in this morning. New clutch install starts tomorrow. Not only is 80% of my driving city, I've had several miles of stop and go highway construction in both directions to and from work every day for more than a year. Appreciate all the info.
That'll do it. These aren't the most tractable cars in stop and go traffic.
Would there be any sense in putting the latest RMS in while they're in there? The part is cheap, and no extra labor involved. Just a thought...
Good luck with it.
Just got it back. What a difference. Clutch pedal is effortless. They replaced the "rear crankshaft seal." That's the same as the rear main seal I hope?
Katy - glad you got that fixed. It is customary for "newbies" to introduce themselves, tell us a little about their 996 (both of which you did, sort of) and post a few pics of their cars. Come on "Newbie" post the !@#$%^&* pics!
This is meant as light hearted fun. We just like to see pics of 996's. Besides, the other guys make me do this!
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