Transmission Jack, Scissor or Adapter for floor jack?

I'm gearing up to get the tranny out of the car and was wondering if the scissor jack is needed or do the adapters that attach to your regular floor jack actually work? $50 difference so it's worth the question. TIA.

tranny jack is safer because it has a wider wheel spacing with better pivoting - that said I helped do one with 2 cheap floor jacks and some wood blocks (2 people as well) - in my youth I just HeManned them out (but I was much stronger before I threw my back out) If I was by myself I would use a tranny jack PS you can rent a good jack for a couple days pretty cheap (check your local rental outfit)

May I ask why you are removing the transmission? ....Rickker

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I heard that some Porsches had a golden ticket in the bell housing. J/K No I have a weird noise coming from the area and I know the clutch is getting worn and has slipped a couple times (rare). But I'm betting on the throwout bearing regarding the noise...re: Name that engine whistle (LINK)

Go and get a Motorcycle/ATV jack. I have a nice craftsman 1500lb 19 lift, wide base and top. Works great on transmissions and engines. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...Lift+Equipment Rick 99 996C4 87 944S

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I used a transmission jack looking exactly like the one on your picture to replace the gearbox of my 996. It worked really well. One of the feature I really enjoyed is that you can tilt the plate on which the gbox is sitting, which is very helpful when you reassemble everything. Not sure the other one has it. Another point I would consider is the overall height of the jack. I had some trouble to take the gbox away from the work area because I couldn't lift my car high enough. I fixed the problem by using a pallet on which I put the car jack... This was merely enough. So if a dedicated trans jack is even just 1/2 inch thinner, it's well worth an extra $50.

Is there a transmission removal DIY procedure around somewhere? I didn't see one on Renntech. ....Rickker

Can find the factory manual for it here: http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm Step by step RMS replacement (including transmission drop) with photos shown here: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

Thanks Dave!! This is exactly what I was looking for. ...Rickker

Thanks Dave. Great information. Nghia

I think I'm doing this after the New Years run. 20+ cars going right now..... And I have to figure out how to brace the engine.....

Be careful with the c-speedracing RMS procedure. Some of the stuff in there is wrong, some is really dangerous. The manuals on cannel are correct but for the 99 model. If you really want to know the official and latest instructions, you should consider www.alldatadiy.com . Costs a few dollars for the registration, but if you're willing to do some serious work on your car, that's certainly money very well spent.

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I noticed that they pulled the IMS cover off and didn't have a problem like one of the posters here who ended up living in a nightmare for days. I down loaded that manual and will go by that to get it out....best possible way to do it....

If you are going to take off the IMS flange, which you should do to check out the bearing once the trans is off, remember to take out the chain tensioners, particularly the 1-3 cylinder, IMS to Cams and the IMS to Crank. Also, remember to lock the enigne at TDC. If you remove the flywheel to do this you are supposed to use new flywheel bolts, and will need an angle guage to retorque them coorectly.

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Yes, that's whats not explained in the c-speed article. Thanks for the tip.

I've never used the pictured tranny jack to work on a 996 (still haven't pulled the trigger on one yet), however on my LS1/T56 Z3 I've used that same harbor freight scissor jack at least a dozen times without any issues.

Scissor jack it is... Just bought it today on the way home from a day trip...... This weekend is the tear down inspection time. We'll see what I need to order...

cant wait... I am hoping that throwout bearing is crunchy !!

I have that exact tranny jack and used it with great success on my 996 when I changed the clutch. Nice to have air impact to raise and lower it. Simple job getting the tranny out of these cars really!

Now how high do I need to get the car? Before I spend hours trying to figure it out....

if you jack the *** up high enough to get jack stands under the rear jacking points the nose will be close to the ground... that was high enough for the job I helped on.....

IMG_0694.JPG This was how high I put my car. Was easy to roll around under the thing with my manly sized width.

Looks like the copy and paste didn't work on my iPhone. I'll post a pic later from my computer along with actual measurement.

The distance from the ground to the bottom of the car is 16 inches. I prefer to have the whole car up as I personally never feel as safe when the back is up and the nose down even with wheels properly chucked. Just feel like it could slip forward, plus you lose some room to work under the car towards the middle. Also, if it is up even the trans jack sits flat on bottom of trans.

Another shot, this time from doing the spark plug tubes last summer. Gives you plenty of room to work.