15 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHAny DIY A/C Charge Help ?
Reported or suspected cause
root cause (and expensive fix)
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I realize there is probably a root cause (and expensive fix) for the warm air � however, no time to a trip to the dealer.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Beats the shop ripping you off for $80 and you have the connector and guage, even when the can is empty, that you can use to check the system for proper low side pressure.
Leading evidence: 'root cause (and expensive fix)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'root cause (and expensive fix)' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check system' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Beats the shop ripping you off for $80 and you have the connector and guage, even when the can is empty, that you can use to check the system for proper low side pressure.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Once this system was clean, 1.95ozs of coolant was added.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
"Once the system was clean, 1.95ozs of coolant was added."
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Something "smells", are you sure he didn't simply clean the pollen air filter?
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check system
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Beats the shop ripping you off for $80 and you have the connector and guage, even when the can is empty, that you can use to check the system for proper low side pressure.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
I know it sounds counter-intuitive at first but it worked for me all the way from mid-AR to Seattle a few years ago when one of the radiator cooling fans failed.
In the spirit of the forums, an exhaustive search did not reveal the help I need.
I need a quick fix. I have a wedding to attend in a couple of days and my A/C stopped blowing cold. It is predicted to be in the 90s for the wedding. If I don�t get the A/C cold (she will want to take the Rover- Eeks!).
I realize there is probably a root cause (and expensive fix) for the warm air � however, no time to a trip to the dealer. I�ve watched people recharge their A/C systems and it appears to be fairly simple.
Does anyone have experience or have a cook book for the recharge process.
Did the system slowly get warmer over a few days/weeks or did all of a sudden it lost its ability to cool?
If it was slow in losing its ability to cool, recharging is fine until you find the source of the leak but if it all of a sudden it stopped, recharging will not work.
You are right, I have never seen a thread on A/C systems, they are pretty bulletproof. My car has 95k miles and still blows really cold, I believe it is related to the Denso components that Toyota uses.
It occured slowly over time - I'd say a month or so. It's not warm yet, but certainly not cold enough to cool me off on hot day. It doesn't help that I have black leather either....
Sounds like you are good to go since the leak is somewhat slow.
Maybe someone will chime in on what the pressures need to be at when recharging as I do not know what Porsche recommends.
First, check to make sure the A/C compressor clutch engages with the A/C activated.
Other than the obvious, fuses, wiring, connectors, etc, it will not engage if....
A) The OAT is near, at, or below freezing. An open OAT sensor can cause this.
B) The refrigerant pressure is too low. Typcially indicating a low charge.
C) The refrigerant pressure is too high. The A/C compressor is cycled off periododically when there is enough liquid refrigernat "stored". But there are some conditions, such as a TOO HOT condensor, that will also cause this.
D) The engine coolant is approaching the level of engine overheat. Possibly one of the two electric condensor/radiator cooling fan motors has failed in either the low speed or high speed position.
E) The engine throttle is wide open.
F) The cooling evaporator vane temperature is below 34F. If this sensor (shorted) fails the evaporator might actually freeze up and block all or most system airflow.
If the radiator fan(s) has failed you can get by temporarily by running the system on MAX cooling, recirculate, and lowest blower speed. I know it sounds counter-intuitive at first but it worked for me all the way from mid-AR to Seattle a few years ago when one of the radiator cooling fans failed.
In MAX cooling the A/C will be substantially more efficient, fewer compressor cycles, better FE, lower heat loading on the radiators, etc. MAX cooling bypasses the REHEAT/REMIX airflow temperature moderation mode, none of the airflow is REHEATED downstream of the evaporator.
Just a quick follow-up to this post. I struggled through my stubbornness and took the car to a local service station (I�m 45 minutes from a P dealer).
The AC values are in the front trunk. They can be found under the right (passenger side) plastic cover near the cabin filter. The shop had a fairly large machine with 2 lines. The mechanic explained the system �should� be vacuumed before adding coolant � any coolant still in the system is reclaimed. Once this system was clean, 1.95ozs of coolant was added. The whole took about 30 minutes and my air was REALLY cold immediately following.
The damage was $80.
Why would you take it to the "cleaners" to have the A/C serviced?
No, the system DOES NOT need to be pumped down before adding refrigerant. Typically the new ones are only pumped down if the closed/sealed refrigerant system needs to be opened for some sort of component servicing. Or maybe AFTER a refigerant leak has been fixed.
And 1.95 ounces, 6%, for a 32 ounce system...?
Something "smells", are you sure he didn't simply clean the pollen air filter? Or maybe used a hemostat to close, pinch off, the hot water flow to the heater core and thereby bypassed the REHEAT/REMIX airflow path?
That latter technique (I used a plastic valve purchased at Home Depot) would certainly improve the A/C efficiency greatly and thereby make the system seem to be more functional, will improve FE somewhat substantially too.
Looks to me as if he pumped it down needlessly other than to make you feel better about the "charges".
Interested points wwest, as long as its running cold. Are there any negative side effects to the possible fixes you describe? Could he have meant 1.95gal..... At least you can ride to the wedding in luxury (not that the rover is not, but I always prefer to take the porsche to events over the infiniti suv we have)....
You can purchase a kit for the 134a system from walmart or Napa. The "kit" comes with a connector, guage, instructions and what looks like a 16 ox can of coolant, sealant, lubricant.
I used one on my 99 truck this weekend. Went from zero ac to fully functioning ac. Beats the shop ripping you off for $80 and you have the connector and guage, even when the can is empty, that you can use to check the system for proper low side pressure. Oh yeah, the "kit" was $20.
Try it.
"Once the system was clean, 1.95ozs of coolant was added."
Now that we know the "added" coolant was 1.95 lbs (32 ozs??) I would guess that "cleaned" meant it was pumped down fully, the refrigernat was recovered in the process, and it was that same 1.95 lbs of refrigerant that was returned to the system.
"The damage was $80."
That would be cognizant, approximately, $100 is typical, with the labor/time required to pump the system down to remove any moisture and refill with the original recovered/salvaged R134a.
But assuming the A/C wasn't working due to moisture contamination the question remains: how did the moisture accumulate in a fully SEALED system so quickly?
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
