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YOUR RESEARCH996 Leather Wear- Steering Wheel, Shift Knob
Leading reported evidence
Replace several dash items and will eventually
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I have replaced several dash items and will eventually replace the center console.
Leading evidence: 'Replace several dash items and will eventually' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace center console' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I have replaced several dash items and will eventually replace the center console.
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Suggestion · Original poster
If there are any lumps or bumps after drying, you can use a very slight amount of running alcohol to smooth them out.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I then sprayed the steering wheel using a disposable spray tool from leather world (
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Suggestion · Original poster
It doesn't take long for the dye to dry however if you want to dry it quicker, use a heat gun.
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I am sure that there are others who have had this problem. My car is in great condition however there were some interior leather wear issues. Especially on the steering wheel and shift ****. I recently started messing around. After several missed attempts I have had some great results. If anybody is interested, I can post some basic pictures and instructions. I do not have many before pictures since I wasn't planning on posting the info.
FYI- 99 C2 with Savanna Beige leather.
Thanks,
Steve
While we're on this topic, any thoughts from the forum about whether some colors of leather wear better than others? I would guess that black would wear better, but don't know from experience.
I think that the same fix for the steering wheel will work for the console. I am at work now so I will take pictures and post them tonight or tomorrow.
Phil - you actually have to drive your car to get the wear
I have savanna beige interior also and it wears poorly, you can permanently scratch most of the plastic trim with a fingernail. I have replaced several dash items and will eventually replace the center console. Would love to see pics of results.
Also, anyone had any luck with any type of "touch up" on savanna beige plastic parts? I have a few minor scratches that don't justify an brand new part.
I actually drove the car to the Fabspeed show in Ambler today. All of 1.5 miles from my house, so no wear to the wheel or shifter yet. Fun show, some nice P-cars and a couple of gorgeous F360s. Fun time. There were a bunch of folks taking pics so hopefully, they'll post them. That way I can prove I actually own (and sort of drive) my 4S!
Ok- here is the info and pictures. Like many of us I had some pretty worn areas on my steering wheel and shift ****. Unfortunately, I did not take any before pictures but trust me, it was quite bad. I should also say that I am by no means and expert, just a weekend warrior like many of us. Obviously, proceed at your own risk.
I purchased two different dyes from some internet companies. First was from magic mender, it was cork color. That was way off color. Second, I purchased savanna beige from leather world. The savanna beige was a slight bit too light so I added a little of the cork color that I had previously ordered. I found that rubbing alcohol removes the original factory dye. I removed all the dye so I only had bare leather (I do not think that you need to do this but it seems to give the wheel a smoother appearance and seems to stick better. After this I dipped a terry cloth towel in the dye a "painted" the back of the steering wheel. I let that dry then did a basic mask with a 1 dollar plastic sheet from wal-mart. I taped the sheet to the windshield so it wouldn't stick to the wheel when wet. I then added 71% isopropyl alcohol to the dye in a 1 to 10 mixture. I then sprayed the steering wheel using a disposable spray tool from leather world (
http://www.leatherworldtech.com/Prod...oductid=C8209)
. The dye was a bit too thick and came out slightly chunky however it smoothed out when it dried. Also, the runs that I caused disappeared when dry. I did purchase an adhesion additive but I didn't use it. If there are any lumps or bumps after drying, you can use a very slight amount of running alcohol to smooth them out. Also, if you got the dye in places you didn't want it (overspray, fingers...) rubbing alcohol will remove it. I let the dye dry overnight then in the morning I rubbed it down with meguiars leather conditioner.
I didn't give instructions for the shift ****. It is the same as the wheel except you have to mask the metallic parts. I would remove the ****, boot prior to spraying. To remove, just grab on the bottom, back of the boot and pull up, it will pop out. Then pull the **** up, hard.
A few notes- the dye looks darker when wet. It doesn't take long for the dye to dry however if you want to dry it quicker, use a heat gun.
I was extremely pleased with my results. I think that it looks as good as new, possibly better. The total cost of the project was about 50-70 bucks.
Thanks tornik550 I went to the vendor
http://www.leatherworldtech.com
I got the Leather/Vinyl Recoloring Kit
for $49.95 arrived in just 3 days UPS ground.
I had some wear on my ebrake handle and console lid.
Here are some before and after pictures. My Savannah Beige color is brighter. Normal I guess my interior is 8 years old. I was told by the mfg that the color will darken a bit after it dries in 24 hours or so. This is after 4 hours.
I will use the included leather conditioner to darken it up a bit as well. I am much happier.
Still deciding If I will do the seat bolster and shift ****, this is good for now.
Prep, remove old dye, tape off and mask against over spray. A couple coats wet then dry then the results.
I think that it looks a lot better than the before pictures. It looks very smooth. I hope that it lightens. That is what mine looked like before I darkened it but I never gave it a decent amount of time to dry.
When I first redyed mine, I found that one or two coats was best. If you go more than that, the top coats peel. If you need to redo it too many times to match the color (like I did), it may be best to restrip the handle and start over. If you need matching the color, let me know.
So far mine has been dyed for only a week or two and it still looks great.
Steve
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
