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Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?

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YOUR RESEARCHDo 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?

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Replace about 1k miles ago

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well i just did my 60K service change about 1k miles ago....

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace about 1k miles ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace about 1k miles ago' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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what kind of performace or problems would i run into with low pressure?

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?

Use of expert sometimes

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Suggestion

i like the fact that i can diagnose my own things without the use of expert sometimes...

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?
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Replace about 1k miles ago

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well i just did my 60K service change about 1k miles ago....

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?

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Suggestion

what kind of performace or problems would i run into with low pressure?

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?

Use of expert sometimes

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i like the fact that i can diagnose my own things without the use of expert sometimes...

Do 18x5 & 18x12 fit my 99?
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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Do 18x8.5 and 18x12 Work Mesh Wheels with Michelin Pilot Sports in 235/40/18 and 315/30/18 sizes fit on my 99? Thank you. Regards,

POST 2Original post

BR....totally depends on the offset. But, I don't think you can get the 12" rear on regardless of offset. My advice would be to keep searching. You could get away with the 12" rear on a wide body 996 (C4S or TT) but not on the narrow body.

POST 3Original post

I have to agree with Dell on this one. (Man, I really do hate it when that happens!) For example, if you got a 12" wheel with a 65mm offset, the wheel would extend 1" farther to the OUTSIDE and 1" farther to the INSIDE (in the wheel well) compared to a 10" wheel with a 65mm offset. It would most certainly rub somewhere, either inside or outside, or both.

POST 4Original post

Let's say that the offset if 65 in the rear as a starting point. If you want to know how far out it will stick it would be like adding a 25MM spacer to the rear and that is just for outwards movement. This doesn't even cover the inside movement. I think it's save to say that you need to stick to 11" or less on the rear and with the proper offset.

POST 5Original post

yes.... i have 11's right now... i think i need fender rolls........luckily i didn't lower it yet.....it would be rub city for me....

POST 6Original post

11's are the max....if you have the right offsets, 11's will work without rolling the fenders......

POST 7Original post

so how do i know if i need to roll or not? just drop it and find out? it looks real close.... but i can't tell for sure...

POST 8Original post

iForged wont fit right....they are too wide on the rears....I think you need to roll....but the correct offset would not need to be rolled....iForged is known for that.....they are probably about 5-10mm too agressive on the offset....

POST 9Original post

nuts... that's probably why i got such a good deal on it..... it does look real aggressive though... how much is it to roll anyways?

POST 10Original post

smile.....do you know what your offset is? that will help figure out if you need to roll or not. But if you have those iForged wheels then you are screwed on that front. Never understood that company (and the people that sell em) and why they won't divulge their offsets. No matter what they say their offset is WRONG and they just keep selling em and people keep buying em. What a shame.

POST 11Original post

Yeah Dell, correct...nice wheels, but why not sell an OPTION to have them -10mm in the rear? It seems we get like a post a month about the rear iForged wheels....

POST 12Original post

you know what dell... i do not know the offset... once i get a chance i'll take some pics... but the front looks fine..... it's the rear that's iffy to me...

POST 13Original post

arrogance maybe? too stubborn to admit a mistake in the offset calculation? who knows. Regardless, it's total B.S. and something that amazes me that poeple keep buying em.

POST 14Original post

yeah, it's the damn rear with those iForged wheels. Fronts are fine but rear are all wrong.

POST 15Original post

Yeah, people buy them because they are assured they are the correct size for a 996...so they think why question the experts? Once they are on, they think..hmmm....not sure, but they say they are right and we disbelieve.....When I was searching for wheels, I looked ONLY at offets....I knew I wanted something like the GT3 18's fit, but in 19s....so 11 rears, about a 63-67 offset....fronts were easier, there are only a few front sizes for all 996's....but getting the correct info meant LOTS of research and asking LOTS of questions.....for some its easier to look at a abook, pick a wheel and pay someone....and HOPE its what they want.

POST 17Original post

you know i bought them off of someone from 6speed and the wheels looked really nice on his 02 cab. is there a difference bt the 02 cab and the 99 cab ? i asked a lot of questions before i made the plunged...... i guess what i needed to ask the person selling it was if i needed fender rolling..... my mistake for not asking.... i just like the way it looked on his car......

POST 18Original post

Pics can be very deceiving. You'll only know once you mount them.

POST 19Original post

i agree..... well more so now .... anyways... i know i asked on another post but has anyone done a diy on the oil pressure sending unit before.... my car is showing 0-1 bar all the time and once in a while it will dip into the idiot light..... i do the check in the back with the dip stick and it looks fine....

POST 21Original post

Just curious.....are you sure its reading incorrectly? Just because you have oil, doesn't absolutely mean you have oil pressure....when was the oil last changed and with what kind of oil? what viscosity? it may be a sender, but it may be that you have low oil pressure.....

POST 22Original post

well i just did my 60K service change about 1k miles ago.... the oil i used was the mobil 0-40w.... now if i have low oil will i ecperience any type of performance or driving issues.... i mean when i start up the car it shows b't 2-3 bars and when the car warms up it hovers right below the 1 bar mark but doesn't really increase at all after that...... so with low oil pressure, what will i be looking for b.c i will go out and look for it.......

POST 23Original post

is that at idle 1 bar? does it increase when you are driving? it should increase as your revs increase.....

POST 24Original post

Have you had the dealer or an indy diagnose that or are you guessing? You will end up spending more guessing than if you have a "no-obligation" diagnosis.

POST 25Original post

nope it doesn't go up at all.... if anything if i do some spirited driving it goes down..... and hits that idiot light faster.....

POST 26Original post

where can i get a diagnose free of charge... i don't want to take it in to the dealer if i can avoid it.. no more warr...... it's a shame.....

POST 28Original post

Well, you are going to have to probably pay for .5-1 hour of labor. If you can negotiate the cost telling them you "think" it might be the sending unit and if they can tell you if that is the case. For all you know if could be something much more serious. Wouldn't you want to know?

POST 29Original post

newport... located in socal.. fountain valley huntington beach area........ dell - you're right i would like to know... but i guess that's why i'm on this forum like crazy trying to figure these things out for myself... i like the fact that i can diagnose my own things without the use of expert sometimes... and i don't trust dealers a lot... got ripped off many times on repairs that wasn't needed... i like to be passive and just "TRUST THE EXPERTS" but they're there to make money......i know a sad perception... but i guess it happens more often then not....

POST 30Original post

Smile, Something is amiss. Your oil pressure at idle on a cold start should be a full 5 bar. And even moderate acceleration or engine speeds should produce 4-5 bar pressures. As Newport mentioned, it may be something as simple as a bad sending unit, but you should definitely have it checked out.

POST 31Original post

You definately have low pressure and it has nothing to do with the oil. My car idles with significantly higher pressure on 0W40 (2+)

POST 32Original post

kevin... i know... there's something wrong... but if there's actually low pressure... wouldn't i be experience something else... or at least hear some knocking or really bad burning smell? i don't think the car would run if i didn't have any oil prssure wold it? just trying to figure it out and have it make sense to me.... i called up the dealer and they told me take it in probably it's the whole oil pressure and leveling unit... it would cost me around 1K to fix.....WHAT....? so i think it's better if i can narrow it down as much as possible, try a simple fix, and it it doesn't work, i'll take the expensive route......

POST 33Original post

hey ray..... what kind of performace or problems would i run into with low pressure?

POST 34Original post

i do so much reading on this forum and it's crazy..... although i can't stop... i'm a fanatic.... but all the info points to the sending unit......

POST 35Original post

Low pressure will not have IMMEDIATE damage, but it could be not lubricating the engine properly...this can lead to premature wear of internal engine parts....It may not run differently at all at first, but by the time you notice the performance difference, it may be too late...it could easily be just the sending unit, or even tha gauge itself....but I would get it checked out....I would ask for suggestions on a good OC independant....you said you did the 60k service...did you do it or have it done? I am not gonna be mr doom and gloom, but be careful with these cars...they are simple in some ways and VERY complex in others....some things cannot be diagnosed without PST readers or someone with knowledge of the 996 engine and its tendancies...I have worked on lots of cars, rebuilt engines in my teens and I would not do alot of work on this engine....I have done brakes, audio, NAV, all kinds of things, but most engine stuff, I leave to the experts....

POST 36Original post

you might be right...... just called up GMG and their next appointment is not until the 27th of this month.... so does anyone know of a good place that's trust worthy to go to in the socal area... that won't rip me a new one?

POST 37Original post

I have heard good things about Hergersheimer.....never been there...I am going to use them for my next service.... http://www.hergesheimer.com/

POST 38Original post

I'm certainly not educated on the oiling requirements, but I do know that the engine has mechanical elements that require hydraulic pressure (such as lifters and cam chain tensioners).

POST 39Original post

Newport... thanks... just made an appointment to bring it in... Surprise... relatively cheaper then everyone else....... GMG, Vision Motor sport, and another place i go to to take care of the p-car is around $300.... Hergersheimer is only $180........ nice.......i'll let you know what kind of a job they do......

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