Key Fobs Not Working

I did a search but didn't find anything. Figured it is probably a common problem though. I have two keys and neither will lock or unlock remotely. I replaced the batteries but they still won't work. I got the car from a friend and they worked for him, saw them work when I picked up the car. I've tried holding them in every position imaginable and walking all around the car while pressing the button but nothing. Oh, it's a '99 C2 cab.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...r-key-fob-fix/

I have tried a couple of things with limited success that I read here. After changing the battery start the car with the key and it should relearn the car. This one did not work for me. I assume your 99 has only one button like mine. ?? Lock the car with the key, then pull it out and try the button. It should then lock the car. Do the same thing with unlocking the car, pull the key then press the button. This worked for me for a while but the key reverted back to not working in a short time. I have hear install the battery backward for a short time but this made no sense to me as you don't want reverse polarity ?? I have a 99 C4 Cab With one key that works just fine and one that is intermittent. Tuned in to see if you find a solution. Marc

I also have the same issue - both keys worked fine when I purchased the car last year but soon stopped working. I have replaced the batteries (CR 2032) multiple times - the keys will work for a day or two and then stop functioning. I have tried the heat gun repair but had the same result - worked for a couple of days then nada. I am tired of using the key to open the door, put the key in the ignition, turn right one click, and then get in the car, close the door and unlock the passenger door... PITA for a Porsche I am at the point where I am ready to reach for my wallet but am looking for ways to save a couple of bucks. As I already have two correct blades, can I just replace the PCBAs and pills and then pay for programming? Or do I need to purchase new keys with FOBs and then pay for programming? TIA

There's a lot of d**k-swinging going on in the other key threads, but here's my experience: I bought two new key heads - including the electronics and the RFID pill - from Suncoast . I moved the bronze/brass/whatever metal key shaft from my old fobs into the new ones. (Note: The springloaded wedge that secures the key into the head is really clever and was fun to play with.) I then took the car and the new keys up to my friendly neighborhood Porsche dealer, and they took $75 from me in exchange for pairing the two new keys with my '99. While waiting, I drank a nice complimentary bottle of cold water and perused their new-car inventory. $375 was a decent amount of money ($150 each for the heads, $75 for the programming), but not any more than Nissan wants to sell me a new Murano key.

Thanks 5CHN3LL This is exactly what I was looking for!

Jeezzz...spend the money and let a dealer fix your keys.

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I bought the GT key (with 911 instead of GT) from Suncoast. Swapped the bronze "key" bit, the electronics board/battery thingy, and the RFID pill into it from my spare (and yes, the spring loaded wedge might have been fun to play with, but I'm still not sure where it landed), and it works great. The RFID thingy is *key*... but unless you break your old one, no point in paying someone to do the swap.

Bringing up an old thread, and yes the swinging in the other key threads is what has me posting here. One key works great in all respects. The other key will lock (arm alarm) and unlock (disarm alarm) when manually inserted into the door lock. I runs the windows and top just fine also. BUT it will not lock and unlock the car using the magic button. Yes I have tried everything on every thread. My actual question is, one person said OMG you MUST go buy new keys or you will be in deep trouble. Can anyone explain this statement as both keys work fine it is just that one of them the button does nothing. Thanks Guys. Marc

I have almost exactly the same problem. Bought the car used a month ago with two keys with button and one mini key without button. Pressing the button did nothing but the previous owner says the battery is dead. Replaced the battery on one key, and the remote worked for a few times (blinking LED on the key when the button is pressed). A couple days later the key remote stopped working and the LED stopped blinking when the button was pressed. Replaced the battery CR2032 again, and the key worked again for another day. Did this a couple of times. Thinking there is a short or a leak inside the key that caused the electronics to eat batteries. I tried the other key which looked brand new. Replaced the battery there, and its LED blinks when the button is pressed, but the car doesn't respond as if it doesn't recognise the key. So I'm back to manually locking and unlocking since I used up my 4-pack of CR2032 in just a dozen of lock/unlocks. This is on a 99 C2.

2004 996 I read through tons of threads on multiple sites and nothing worked. Until, I disconnected my after market Bluetooth radio transmitter from the cigarette lighter charger. Both key fobs now work better than ever. All is good.....

I realize this is a dead thread, but I spent a ton of time searching, finally figured this out for myself.... and don't anywhere online see what eventually solved my problem. I bought a 2001 996 C4 Cab last week. mid this week I went to go get it inspected, key fobs wouldn't unlock the car, had to unlock it using the door... I tried all of the above... lock/unlock from door, insert key in ignition... nothing... press key fob button nothing. I did note the alarm LED and the key fob LED blinked in sync when I pressed the key fob button. ..... If your cabriolet top is down... none of this works to get the key fobs working again... . as there is an open in the alarm detected ( car beeps once ) I spent a day messing with this ... with the top down.... If there is an open detected it won't let the fobs start working.... Finally had one of those 2am wake up with a moment of clarity, put the top up this morning.... and it worked immediately

My key fob didn't work so I tried the steps above without luck. 2000 single button that would light up but wouldn't lock/unlock. I found this youtube video which suggested the microswitch was shot. You Tube Sure enough, my microswitch is in rough shape. I ordered 3 more on ebay for under $10 shipped from the UK. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30249716055...kAAOSwrhBZAhPo I'll install in a month when they arrive and see if that is the fix we needed.

Last summer my both keys remote worked perfectly. After week holiday, car alarm went sleep mode, and after that keys remote never worked again. I did all reset procedudes etc., and even resoldered one keys microswitch. Still nothing. There were some error codes when reading alarm module by indy, but no help. Also visual checked alarm module under driver seat (left side), but it was ok, no moisture. So, finally this year ordered a new keyfob from porsche and indy programmed it to work with my car. Now I have one working remote, at least

I only got one key/fob with my car and it's the flakiest thing. One day it will work great, the next it won't work at all then a few days later it'll be working fine again. I feel like I've hit a small lottery every time I push the button and something happens. I guess I'm going to have to spend money to get a new, reliable key fob. I need a spare key anyway but what a wallet bruise it is.

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just got a 2001 c4 cab and I�m having similar issues with the remote locking. The alarm is triggered intermittently on unlocking the door manually. I�m going to try your key to alarm light experiment in the morning! maybe unrelated but the battery died the first time I tried to restart it after getting fuel. Had to get a jump, luckily wasn�t too far from home.

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This is interesting. Both of my keys do not work (one never did since I bought it). I tried to go through all the relearning processes I could find with no luck. This was done with the hard top on. I am not sure if that makes any difference versus having the soft top closed, but I can try now that the hard top is not on the car. Will report back if I can suddenly relearn with the soft top up.

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Have to check this out Thanks vetfever

Ok, so nothing will make my key respond. The light on the fob does light up, also has a new battery. All of the resync methods I have found do not work. I did just try with the soft top up, but no response still. I plugged in my Autel reader (reads through an app on the phone) which allows for some live data viewing/logging, and when looking at "Button on transmitter" (there are 3) and pressing a button, I get nothing in the app. Just about anything within the car that shows in the app will show the changed state, such as opening the door, locking the doors, convertible top up or down. I am not sure if this is a case of where I need a new key or there is something more sinister at work that I have to track down. Its rather annoying as most of the time when I am out at a store or something and lock the door with the key, the alarm will go off when I unlock and I have to get in and turn on the ignition to stop it. Also have to get in the car to unlock the passenger side which is also annoying since I often throw extra groceries or something in the passenger seat.

The immobilizer under the drivers seat controls these functions. It ofter gets wet in the cabs. Check out ecu doctors as they can test and sometimes repair the issue. They also have a water proof box for it. U can also tap in an aftermarket fob.

[QUOTE=Goldenzrule;18294273]Ok, so nothing will make my key respond. The light on the fob does light up, also has a new battery. All of the resync methods I have found do not work. I did just try with the soft top up, but no response still. I plugged in my Autel reader (reads through an app on the phone) which allows for some live data viewing/logging, and when looking at "Button on transmitter" (there are 3) and pressing a button, I get nothing in the app. Just about anything within the car that shows in the app will show the changed state, such as opening the door, locking the doors, convertible top up or down. I am not sure if this is a case of where I need a new key or there is something more sinister at work that I have to track down. Its rather annoying as most of the time when I am out at a store or something and lock the door with the key, the alarm will go off when I unlock and I have to get in and turn on the ignition to stop it. Also have to get in the car to unlock the passenger side which is also annoying since I often throw extra groceries or something in the passenger seat.[/Q If you already tested the battery and the LED turns on when you press the button, you can test if the remote works with a Remote tester for 350 Mhz. I just bought one for testing my key-remotes before buying new keys at the stealership. Amazon Amazon

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[QUOTE=JB001;18294904] So if I understand your current situation you are waiting for the device you ordered from Amazon to see if the fob is emitting any signal? Cause I was going to ask that just because the red LED lights up when you press the button, does it necessarily mean a signal is actually being transmitted?

Yes, that's exactly what I'm doing but I think I know the answer as my other key stopped opening/locking two years ago while its LED is still flashing and the other key was still working. LED flashing doesn't automatically means that the remote is working.

I've no affiliation, but there is some useful info on the common modes of failure & options to address them here: JMG Porsche - Independent Porsche Specialists - Porsche 996 and 986 Boxster Alarm primer

Any key pressed on the remote will make the alarm LED on top of the dash blink - if the remote is working and sync'd to the car. So look for that clue as well.

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Just went through the process in there and no dice. I did learn that if I put the key in and turn to the lock position twice, it arms the alarm. If I turn just once, it does not arm the alarm. I did not know this. Turning to unlock however many times doesn't seem to disarm. I can unlock and then open the door and watch as the light on the dash flashes I believe 20 times, and then the alarm will go off. I can put the key in the ignition and turn to the on position (don't have to turn the car on) at any point during this countdown or after the alarm goes off to turn the alarm off. This may be in the manual, I did not look, so might be common knowledge.

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Well I know the remote is not synced to the car, whether its due to a remote failure or a failure somewhere in the car, I do not know at this time.

Most of our aging cars, the key fob internal circuit board fails. I have lived with this for over twenty years. Not interested in paying for new remote keys and having them programmed into the immobilizer for big bucks.

On my third M9X based Porsche and all of them have and had issues with these keyfobs. I've owned many cars with more advanced Keyfobs, and have NEVER seen such problems like the ones that Porsche uses. It's awful. The only thing that works reliably is the laser cut key and the RFID pill. (Those are the basics to get the car to work) The electronic boards are the worst part of these fobs and are notorious for dying or operating sporadicly. It used to be that people thought that the low range issue was due to a poor antenna design on the receiver inside the car, but IMHO, it's actually the poor design of the transmitter inside the Keyfob itself. As it ages, the fob's transmitting signal is attenuated. It gets so bad that you have to hold the keyfob up to the window for it to work. Then after a while it stops all together. After it completely dies, most resynchronization efforts (even suggested by Porsche) DO NOT work. The only proven solution is to drive to the dealership or independent shop (that has Porsche network and iPAS authority) and have a new Keyfob programmed to the car.

Some have had success refreshing the solder joints on fobs which light up but don't work, or have very short range, this might be an option if you have a fob which worked in the past but doesn't now.

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Please let us know what you find out doing this.

There really isn't much to the circuit board. I had to replace the microswitches on both of my keys due to perished rubber, also the key case for the same reason. I bought the microswitch repair kits from this guy. https://batee.com/products/986-996-b...ter-repair-kit I don't remember exactly where I got the outer cases but I'm pretty sure it was eBay. It's a bit fiddly, and requires electronics soldering tools and skills, but I went from having 2 keys that mostly didn't work to 2 that always work. The range is still pretty crappy compared to more modern cars but eh.

More good info for the discovery process of Porsche door locks 😂🙏

I picked up a RF tester that will read back the frequency. Both keys read 315 Mhz (I tested with other cars which also read when button pressed. My Audi also read 315 Mhz). So the problem is either the programming or a defect within the car, not a solder joint or other issue with the key itself.

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Key FOB #1 : ZERO emission detected with new battery while Red LED is flashing Key FOB #2: Emmited frequency switches between 295 to 310 to 315 to 285... while LED is flashing Conclusion: Both remotes need to be replaced

I am having this problem too, both keys won’t work to open the car (but I have only ever used one key the other has jsut been a spare, the red led on the spare doesn’t light so ( I did instal a new battery, so that is probably shot) but my other key has also stopped working, My key is the GT Key fob and had it’s internal transmitter replaced about 18 months ago so that should not be the problem (have also replaced the battery). When I push the button on teh remote the LED sensor on the dashboard does NOT recognise the button is being pushed (it used to flash a lot more rapidly when you pushed the remote button)

I just purchased a used 99 996. Two key fobs with new batteries. Both light up. I tried the reset and resync processes. The keys ARE communicating with the car, the red light inside on the dash goes off when I press the buttons, but does not remotely unlock doors. Knowing that the remote is communicating with the car- what is my next step?

^ Yes it may communicate, but not apparently correct way. These keys can suddenly stop working, as my both keys stopped working after two week summer trip. Prior that key resetting (battery flip) worked if there were problems. Only good solution is to get a new keyfob (new transmitter) and have it programmed to car.

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I called sunset and they said if programmable they can do both for $225. What makes a fob programmable vs unusable and thus the $700 for two brand new keys option?

^ Yes you can try to reprogram old keys, but you must have orginal code tags for them. If keys are orginal, they sure have now electrical defects... If I were you, I just would buy one new keyfob, spare key doesn't need remote control.

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I have two- one appears newer. Can they remove the blade and use it so I only purchase the fob?

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You can start the car with these keyfob, correct? But you can not get the the keyfobs to unlock or lock the doors ... or open the frunk or rear deck lid?

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correct

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You can use your old key's blade and (anti theft) pill

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Well, at least you can start the car and manually lock the car. As you probably have learned - these keyfobs have three main parts: 1. Laser cut key blade 2. RFID - passive device that provides a rolling code to the immobilizer. Once the code is accepted (i.e. handshake), then the car can be started. 3. Electronic board (i.e. transmitter) - responsible for remote access to the car's doors, frunk, and rear deck lid. #3 is the most common failure point on these keyfobs as you found out first hand. You can try the resync process that was noted by Porsche in a TSB, but this only works in rare cases. Some have resoldered the electronic boards or even put them in the oven to bake. IMHO, most of those attempts are failed attempts. I would advise sucking up your pride and take the car and the two keys to your nearest Porsche dealership and ask them to reprogram them. Worst-case scenario if they're dead, replacement will be necessary with a new fob, but you can still use these old keys. These old keys can be used for valet or just simple backup. Remember, if you can start the car, then the most important part of the keyfob is working, that is, the RFID. Good luck!

The problem with both of my keyfobs was not failed electronics, it was perished rubber. There are microswitches on the circuit board that are depressed when the buttons are pressed. Those switches have rubber(ish) tops, which was pretty much disintegrated. Also the buttons on the outside were a mushy mess. I found a kit with the microswitches and replaced them that way (I have electronics and soldering skills). I also found some eBay plastic cases which work pretty well.

I just had a situation where I misplaced my keys (VW Passat - not the 996) , so I had to use my spare set. The fob wouldn�t unlock the car, so I replaced the battery. It still wouldn�t work, so I was able to figure out how to get into the car with the �safety key�. Once in the car I inserted the key/fob and the car started fine. Once I had started the car with the fob, everything now works perfectly. * I think because the fob hadn�t been used in such a long time and that the battery had died, the programming was broken. Once it was re-powered / re-paired with the car/security module everything works perfectly.

@Goldenzrule My situation is similar to yours, did you find a solution? Did you use ecu doctors?

Hmmmm� No, the solution was to replace the battery (which made the fob light, but still wouldn�t unlock the car) in the fob. Once the car was started with the fob in question, everything was normal again. No problem with the ECU or Security Module�Good Luck

Good afternoon, (1999 996 C4 Cab 6sp) In my case, both of my original keys worked fine. I removed the battery to remove the heater core and access the heat mixer flap to replace the missed black foam with some HVAC tape. (worked great BTW) When I reinstalled the battery, neither key worked as remotes. Both red lights flash on the keys (both with new batteries) and the red security light on the dash flashes when I press the keys' buttons, but the locks don't work. (The power locks do work from the button on the dash) Has anyone had this series of issues? Background: I took it to my local Porsche dealer and then quoted me $250 to reprogram the existing keys. They charged me $250 to tell me that they could not program without the original key codes which I do not have. I'm a little annoyed that they charged me $250 to tell me that they can't program the old keys and now want another $750 for a new key. I would have paid $750 for a new key if they had disclosed that they need the codes up front but am cranky about being charged $250 for not programming the old ones.

I think my FOB battery is weak... if I install a new battery, will I have to do anything special or re-program anything?

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Nope! The hardest part will be getting the case halves to fit back together.

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Thanks for the quick response (and wish me luck)!

this is fantastic intel. I have a 97 built C2 and neither remote button will open the doors. Bloody annoying, for a Porsche! Starts and drives with the key, so the 'handshake' part is fine. I even have the flashing remote / transmitter LED which is just there to annoy (read infuriate me). Have checked the mico switches and they are in place .... Feel i am going to need to do the slow march to the dealer and use the credit card ... something I was praying to avoid .... any other pointers, greatly appreciated. This has been super helpful. Thank you!

Hate to say it...my key fobs stopped working ~12 years ago. New batteries...no working. Key flashes, dash flashes, no lock or unlock. I figure the circuit board in the key fob is toast. I'm not about to spend the money to have this fixed. I just use the key to lock/unlock when running errands. The vast majority of the time car is unlocked in the garage...so why bother? Maybe just me...

Yesterday I bought some CR2032 Batteries and did the change. Went to the shed and the click did not work, but I paired it by inserting the key into the ignition, turning to the 'On' sector, pressed the fob a few times and removed key. Got out of car, shut door, pressed key fob and Voilla .... I worked!!!!! Did the same with the other key and nothing ... so I have one of two that works. Both blink bright red on the LED's. Will try the spare key again tomorrow, and if this does not work, I'll have the board / transmitter checked for signal. Have really enjoyed this thread, and as you can see, it's fixed my 1997 996 Key!!! Cheers.

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An update after 8 years. I�ve been using my manual key all these years and never used the key fobs. A few weeks ago I had to change the key fob battery of another car, and bought some CR2032 by mistake (the car needed a different type of cell). So I tried these new CR2032 on my 996 key fobs, both key fobs blinked their LEDs when the button was pressed, but the car would respond to only one of the keyfobs. I took the keyfobs inside the house to see if they were transmitting radio signal. The working key transmitted exactly at 315MHz, while the non-working key transmitted at a slightly higher frequency. No problem, I have one working keyfob, better than no keyfob. In only a couple of days the working keyfob became very intermittent, and the LED seldom blinked when the button was pressed. But when it blinked, the car responded. Today I took the keyfob into my basement to investigate. The keyfob was drawing undetectable current when 3V was applied, then when the button was pressed, it was drawing 9mA, when the button was released the current dropped to 7.7mA and stayed there until I remove power. No wonder my batteries only last a couple of days. My theory is that if the keyfob is pressed and the car responds, the idle current goes back to zero. But if the car is out of range and doesnt respond, as was the case of my testing in the basement, the keyfob doesnt return to idle and stays at a 7.7mA current draw, this kills the battery. I�ll need to move my power supply and meter to the garage to test this theory. But if my theory is correct, it would mean that if I accidentally press the keyfob button while away from the car, the keyfob will drain the battery unless you open the key and pop out the cell to reset.

That could be a possibility but (in case of the 9x6) the key has no means of knowing whether the car responds to the signal transmitted as it has no receiver built in. Therefore the key behaves identically in both cases of vehicle in-range or out-of-range. Still, if you find out what causes the current draw and can replace it, you will have gone where no one has gone before and all of us on these kinds of threads will be grateful should you post your findings!

Welp I�m the same boat here. 2003 996 turbo coupe with 115,000 miles key was unlocking and locking fine until after I had my buddies shop pin the coolant pipes. I�m assuming since the car was sitting in the shop for a while with the battery disconnected it the fob pairing got wiped. I�m only able to open the car manually. I also have to immediately stick the key into the ignition or else the alarm goes off.. Open to some suggestions and troubleshooting steps. I already checked the immobilizer and it doesn�t look have gotten wet at any point in its life. Key fob light also blinks when you press the lock/unlock. 🤷🏻‍♂️

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@Conooop 911 Try locking the car manually, then unlocking with the key manually and quickly inserting the key , turn it ON, and pressing the buttons... Also try removing the battery from the key and insert it "upside down" for a moment then remove and reinsert correctly.... Sometimes these proceedues can reconnect the systems..

My fob used to work. My passenger window didn’t quite do the drop thing when the door was opened unless one held the door handle open. With much trepidation, I took the door carefully apart, replaced the door latch (with a VW part!) on the inside of the door and Whaddaya know the drop function worked again when tested without all the interior parts not re-installed. It still worked after I put everything back together. Now the key fob only unlocks the door, which isn’t THAT bad. But! I suddenly remembered there were two little electrical wires to the interior handle that I did not re-attach when all was reassembled. I’m not going to fix it!

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Three parts to these keyfobs - 1. the blade 2. RFID 3. Electronic board responsible for remote access If 1 and 2 are working, then you need to either have the key paired to the car, reprogrammed by the dealership, or replaced with a new keyfob and programmed by the dealership Follow, PorscheTech3 advice to try repairing it within the car itself first. The process never worked for me and I had to have new fobs made. With the new keyfob, it worked perfectly without problem.

I recently purchased a 2003 C4S and I recently experienced the fob not working. This is what I did: I normally go to the unlocked car in the garage twice a week, trash day (Thursday) and sometime during the weekend. From the kitchen doorway, I hit the lock button, then the unlock button, then leave. The car acknowledges the keys via a beep and everyone is happy. I just got of the hospital yesterday after a multiple day visit and went to the garage this morning and received no acknowledgement from the car that it recognized either key. I then stuck one key in the driver door lock and turned left (counter clockwise) until the window started going down. I let it go down about 2 inches, released the key, pulled the key out and then operated the remote to lock the car. The car beeped once and locked the doors. I then hit the remote again and it unlocked the doors. I put the same key back in and turned it clockwise (right) and closed the window. I followed the same procedure with the second key and now everything works as it did before I went into the hospital. Whole process took about 2 minutes including both keys. YMMV.

Actually, Wednesday night to get the can out to the end of the driveway - trash day (Thursday)

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Just make sure the key fob is working for that.

When car is locked for prolonged period, to save power it would do that. Need to use key to unlock door. Keep on a battery maintainer and it won't be issue.

Well another key fob fail story.....I ended up replacing plastics button part on my both keys a year ago. Since I have a Targa I have the 3 main button key all worked fine, when it was daily driving car and I would rotate from main key to spare keys because I got paranoid. I bought a Benz ML350 as the daily driver for harsh summers in Az and noticed that the main key fob stop working. and the spare keys still worked, when I would take out the Targa on weekend early morning drives. I just switched out 2 brand new batteries on both fobs and the main worked and the spare didn’t. Now the main fob is completely dead and the spare still lights up but doesn’t open the doors. I have to manually open and close the doors, I feel since the Targa is not a daily driver anymore something has affected the main key fob battery to die quicker? I have a stock Targa zero modern electronic updates.

I'd swear that my targa gets 'lazy' about responding to the keyfobs if I don't use them regularly. It will open the doors but the frunk, for example, and I'll have to press the button twice to get it to even do that. If I drive the car more often it stops being fussy and behaves itself. Same thing happens with the PSE functionality. What is up with that anyway.

The Alarm System will go into "deep sleep" instead of " ready mode" ( to help with parasitic battery drain ) , if not used in 7-10 days. This will force you to use the key manually to open the door and re-activate the Alarm System.. Driving the car daily you will not have these symptoms...

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My fob had been dead for years, but I just saw this thread, so I put in a new battery, tried the above procedure, and now my key fobs works. Thank you!

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While I do understand this, The main key fob seems to be draining the battery, I just switched out batteries from the 2nd key to main, the main key now workls and unlocks the doors by the button. But now the 2nd key battery is dead and wont light up. Is there a function on the main key fob, were its in ready mode all the time?

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hi my car fob cannot lock/unlock at door key hole manually. i assume i need to have the lock replaced because there was no resistance at all when either turn clockwise or counter clockwise. In this case after lock is replaced would i anticipate more key fob paring issues and would i have to go to the dealer to reprogram? thanks thuy

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The lock mechanism has nothing to do with Porsche keyfob's pairing with the alarm/immobilizer or remote features. If the laser cut key is not manually unlocking the car, then yes, it's the lock assembly. A pretty straight forward DiY replacement. I've replaced two of those lock mechanisms. There is also a slight chance the key shaft has become disconnected from the lock mechanism. You'll have to open the door panel to confirm.

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thank you do much! i used a toothpick and lifted tge 2 gold comor prongs inside one key fob and improved circuit contacts so that key now works and can drive plus remotele lock/unlock. it was battery not making good contact. The other key a tually is missing the chip. locksmith said would cost $400 for chip n reprogramming alone or $650 for new key fob n programming. and im planning to get new lock or have it fixed. thuy