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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHMotor Mount Questions
Leading reported evidence
Fill with hydriolic oil and smooth out vibration
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Standard are filled with hydriolic oil and smooth out vibration but at a slight performance cost (allows the engine to move slightly more).
Leading evidence: 'Fill with hydriolic oil and smooth out vibration' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'semi-solid would have been a great alternative' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill with 60a vs 80a' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The last set of motor mounts (and transmission mount) I installed were Rein units that I added 80A durometer liquid urethane to (~$30 for the kit from mcmaster-carr).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Oh, I'll add one other note, when I replaced the 17 year old OEM mounts with new, the car still felt a lot better.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced my motor mounts with OE motor mounts and have been really happy with the results.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I use Wevo SS engine mounts with Powerflex inserts.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The last set of motor mounts (and transmission mount) I installed were Rein units that I added 80A durometer liquid urethane to (~$30 for the kit from mcmaster-carr).
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
semi-solid would have been a great alternative
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Identified cause
1
Suspected cause
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Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
I�ve had full solid motor mounts in other vehicles and think they are still OK for the street, so I suspect semi-solid would have been a great alternative with a slight added performance benefit.
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43 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T052503Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I bought my OEM replacements from Pelican Parts for under a hundred each side, labeled left and right each. They seem to work perfectly.
I heard of someone using a 964 RS mount and they liked it.
I bought my Rein replacements on Amazon. $85 each but prime.
https://amzn.to/2LmCpGm
Looked identical to stock. Eventually, I pulled them through and decided to use Wevo semi-solid and have really been enjoying them. But my car isn't a daily driver, and there are lots of other thread here if you want to consider alternatives to factory. Easy DIY change.
I also went OEM and daily drive the car, and wondered if I should have gone semi-solid. That said, my car is 100% stock, so that�s the main reason I decided to go OEM. I�ve had full solid motor mounts in other vehicles and think they are still OK for the street, so I suspect semi-solid would have been a great alternative with a slight added performance benefit.
I have semi solid Wevo's and they are great. Really made a HUGE difference in the way the car feels. They are def a bit harsher than stock, but by no means jarring. You do "feel" elements of the road much more, but I felt stock kind of was a bit too plush personally. Either way stock or semi-solid will be a big improvement.
I got mine from ECS Tuning - $165 for the kit (free shipping), both sides and includes the nuts. Rein brand.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...99337504908kt/
It's a very easy DIY. When removing the air pump, don't remove the screw that's closest to the driver side fender - Just loosen it. The pump base is slotted and will just pull out. Of course you have to remove the nut holding the pump to the coolant tank and the other screw closer to the center of the car. The first time I removed the air pump I removed that screw completely, but it's a bit of a pain to get it back in, and completely unnecessary.
^^++ and don't bust the nipple on the coolant hose right behind the SAI pump when you pull it out. I did and had to order a new coolant hose and wait a week. I replaced my motor mounts with OE motor mounts and have been really happy with the results. I debated in my mind and researched all the other alternatives, and then decided on just plain ole brand new OE motor mounts. Mine is a daily driver and never used for DE or tracking. I figured how could I go wrong with OE when the originals went over 120K miles/18 years.
^^ + both posts above = right on.
This is a very easy job. Love working on this car, and be sure to support the engine properly (by placing a floor jack and a piece of wood or other non-hard between the jack and bottom of the engine. I ended up lifting the engine maybe 2� above where it sits normally. You want the entire engine resting on the jack.
What's the difference between "semi-solid" and normal OEM style? I'm not familiar with what the characteristics are of each one, and how it translates to the feel of the car and driving characteristics.
Thanks
Standard are filled with hydriolic oil and smooth out vibration but at a slight performance cost (allows the engine to move slightly more).
Semi solid introduce more NHV but allow less movement of the engine due to being 'semi solid' (no oil just solid rubber).
Agree with others descriptions of differences... From a practical standpoint, it just feels like a little more vibration at idle and more noise/vibration in the cabin when you are pushing it. If you go semi-solids, get a transmission mount insert too. I paired my Wevos with the yellow transmission mount insert from Function First Performance.
http://www.function-first.com
It really snugs everything up without making the car uncomfortable for passengers. Just adds an interesting amount of vibration while making shifts and acceleration more fun.
Oh, I'll add one other note, when I replaced the 17 year old OEM mounts with new, the car still felt a lot better. Mine were shot and sagging. So no matter which route you go, the car will likely feel better.
RockAuto has Rein for $62.79 each. (or $59.65 after their 5% discount)
Use 8605686777408527 in the "How Did You Hear About Us?" box to get the discount.
The last set of motor mounts (and transmission mount) I installed were Rein units that I added 80A durometer liquid urethane to (~$30 for the kit from mcmaster-carr). It is a low cost way to make your own street performance mounts. And you can buy different shore hardness kits if you want stiffer or less stiff. A single kit is more than enough to do all three mounts. One warning: it is quite messy stuff.
I went RSS semi-solid.
Definite improvement in the way it handles. I noticed a difference from the moment I turned the key! but there is a corresponding increase in road noise.
I went with Wevo semi-solids and together with the Function First trans mount insert are by far the best mods I have made. Huge difference in throttle/clutch response, along with much more positive shifter feel. I have set of practically new Rein mounts that I would not mind selling, if anyone is interested.
Good for you. I couldn't tell that much of a difference. I think the Numeric Shifter was a much bigger gain. But that being said, I've got a set of wevos and FF's that will be going into my current track build.
I use Wevo SS engine mounts with Powerflex inserts. They are the same as FF inserts for $40. I don't understand the $130 price tag on them. Car is much louder, some difficulty talking to passengers.
Perhaps they are not the same, as I have not noticed a large increase in either noise or vibration( just a very pleasant buzzing at idle, makes the car feel so much more alive). Sometimes, not always, you do get what you pay for. BTW, I got my yellows on sale for $85.
808Bill: with all the work you are doing getting a Raby/The Knowledge Gruppe 996 Torque Spec book os a great item to own. I think I got mine for under $50 and it had paid for itself over and over.
I decided to replace mine on my 04 C2 Cab that has 78,000 miles on it. I was able to inspect them from underneath and they needed replacement. Got Rein for $132 w/ shipping from RockAuto.com. Thanks to TexSquirrel for the info
Looks like one of my Rein mounts has dropped a half inch after 4500 miles (1.5 yrs) and I'll have to do it all over again.
Fortunately Amazon has authorized a return and refund...Stay tuned!
Update and correction...
My mount has not failed. Something happened when I loosened the engine carrier to do my water pump causing my left tailpipe to be a 1/2" lower.
It's time to do the engine mounts over the x-mas holiday. Ordered Rein engine mounts (AVE0382P / 993-375-049-08) and two new hex nuts (999-084-215-01). Have been looking at torque values for the different fasteners. All posts and the service manual agree that the bottom nut on each engine mount should be 63 ft lb. But for the top bolts, there are various posts that say 25 ft lb, one that says 23 ft lb (
https://www.renntech.org/topic/51296...-mount-torque/
), and then there is a line in the service manual that says 17 ft lb for "engine mount to body". Maybe I am looking at the wrong fasteners. Just want to get it right and not deal with a broken bolt over the holidays. So, any advice on the "right" torque in ft lb for the top bolts -- 25, 23, 17, something else? Love this forum. Thank you for any advice.
17ft pounds (or 23Nm)
BTW, if you ever see a 2 pound discrepancy, either should work.
Many torque wrenches (and users) are not that accurate.
If I were that worried, I would use my inch pound torque wrench which is more accurate.
From this thread, I gather that if I go OEM style, go with Rein. Current RockAuto pricing for 2 after the 5% discount is $157.30. With shipping and tax for me, total is $175.23.
If I mod the Rein to make them solid with Liquid Urethane 80A, then that is an extra $37 shipped from suspension.com, making total $212.23 for DIY semi-solid mounts.
(1) What are thoughts on poly fill with 60A vs 80A for OEM mounts?
(2) What would be the cheapest acceptable semi-solid option? I see brands such as RSS and Wevo. Are there any other cheaper options?
Research results
Torque Solutions TS-00-002 semi-solid mount on on Amazon is $330
Function-First v2 mount is $310 shipped.
Rennpart.com URO Mount - $216.45 shipped
Installation instructions is here in case anyone wants it:
https://www.specr53.com/blog/diy/por...placement-diy/
Installation video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDnd...ature=youtu.be
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
