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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhat about Ohlins coilovers?
Leading reported evidence
Install gt3 antiroll bars
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I also installed GT3 antiroll bars with stock shock mount and it is quite without any rattles or squeaks and at 9 from full soft on front and rear, it is firm but not uncomfortable in the DC metro area roads.
Leading evidence: 'Install gt3 antiroll bars' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is '3-5 track events a year' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust rear dampers' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Im also looking at these coil overs for my 2003 996 cab, the car is mainly used for street and I suspect 3-5 track events a year.
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Suggestion
Damping adjustment is a bit of a pain if you have the Bose subwoofer as you need to remove the subwoofer to adjust the rear dampers.
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Suspected cause
Im also looking at these coil overs for my 2003 996 cab, the car is mainly used for street and I suspect 3-5 track events a year.
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Suggestion
that said I'm almost double the recommended currently(too busy with customer stuff to play with mine
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I also installed GT3 antiroll bars with stock shock mount and it is quite without any rattles or squeaks and at 9 from full soft on front and rear, it is firm but not uncomfortable in the DC metro area roads.
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23 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi,
I hear great things about the Ohlins coil overs, but how can they have more comfort than the stock? They are much stiffer.
Currently running JIC ZMS-S and I am not super happy, very bounce ride and a lot of noise. Maybe they are blown but don't think so.
I went from JRZ double adjustable to R&T GT3 and the difference was night and day....I love the ride now and also fantastic on the track....However, this is a personal preference thing and only you can decide vs others opinions.
The �hlins R/T*is made for those who want*trackworthiness but are unwilling to*compromise on*streetworthiness. The shock has a separate valve for absorption of quick compressions (bumps/smaller surface imperfections) in addition to the normal valve which controls constant compression (cornering). From what I gather, the Koni Frequency Selective Damping (FSD)*shocks have a similar technology.*
I have read countless reports of the �hlins R/T having a more comfortable ride than the factory shocks/struts and springs on several platforms (mostly the E9x M3, but also S2K and others). I have also read several reports from those who have switched from more track oriented, more pricey coilover systems*and been much happier with the R/Ts for their*streetability while still being trackable. Those same folks usually said the R/T wasn�t necessarily a*
great
*performer on track, but was fine for a car which is used for 50% (or more) street driving and 50% (or less) track driving. They�re a bit too soft to be a dedicated track system, from what they say.*
The way I see it is: the*�hlins R/T is the Pilot Super Sport (or, I guess Pilot Sport 4S now) of coilovers: mostly for a very sporty (yet comfortable)*street car, but (technically) capable*of track duty.*
I have not yet owned a set, though. I had planned to put them on my M3 after many months of reading reviews/threads on forums and asking people at car meets and such who had them what they thought about them and how they stacked up in comparison to relatively similar products. I was never overwhelmed by*the need to get them, however; the M3 was just fine for daily use and didn�t look bad at stock height. If I would�ve kept it instead of (or in addition to) getting this car, I would�ve gotten them because, at almost 80k miles, the suspension was due for a refresh anyway.*
To answer your question directly:*shocks (and all the parts of which most cars are comprised)*from the factory provide*the bare minimum performance*necessary to get the least of what the engineers and designers envisioned while being*competitive enough in the market to maximize returns on investments.*�hlins is*an OEM manufacturer that develops*aftermarket solutions for those of us that are not satisfied with the bare minimum. Hence, the �hlins R/T, which*satisfies the market segment that*wants very sporty driving dynamics without having back problems (a rapidly growing market segment).
Simply put,*the*R/T Dual Flow Valve (DFV) technology is the answer to why they can provide both better handling dynamics/road holding and more comfort simultaneously. The factory shocks don�t have that technology.*
I swapped out H&R street performance coilovers that was on the car with Ohlins R&T and happy with the ride and how it performed on the track. H&R had Tarret camber plate and quite noisy. The ride was and shock damping was poor. I also installed GT3 antiroll bars with stock shock mount and it is quite without any rattles or squeaks and at 9 from full soft on front and rear, it is firm but not uncomfortable in the DC metro area roads. I had it at 15 but it was too stiff on bumpy track surfaces.
They're both great products, but call for instance BBI (site sponsor and I am not affiliated) and ask about JRZ vs �hlins for your car. Talk to some professionals that has owned a pair of them both... You also need to compare oranges to oranges - are you mounting a "touring" damper with original top mounts, a "racing" damper with camber plates and no isolation between suspension and body... etc. etc. People tend to have a lot of opinions based on the wrong facts and no knowledge what so ever when it comes to vehicle dynamics.
Is it possible to set up the Ohlins R&T to standard USA C4S ride height? Or close to it? The web site indicates 20mm drop +- 15mm. I could handle 5mm-10mm drop, but 20mm would result in loud and potentially costly noises every time I left the driveway. Even at an angle.
I went from M030 to Ohlins R&T. The Ohlins are less harsh on the street (at lower damping setting) and the car is much more composed on track (at higher damping setting). Damping adjustment is a bit of a pain if you have the Bose subwoofer as you need to remove the subwoofer to adjust the rear dampers. You can buy very expensive damper **** extensions though. Adjustment of the front dampers is easy.
Is it true that the Ohlins need to be removed and sent to the factory for them to be re-charged every 25-30K miles? I recall reading this someplace but was curious if this was true by instruction from those of you that own these
Thanks
Chris
yes they have a service interval, essentially an oil change/seals... that said I'm almost double the recommended currently(too busy with customer stuff to play with mine
) without issue, there is some very slight degradation of the dampening but certainly still a very highly functioning damper currently.
Im also looking at these coil overs for my 2003 996 cab, the car is mainly used for street and I suspect 3-5 track events a year. I have the Eibach sway bars and adjustable links as well. Everything else is stock. Are any other parts required to be changed? Ive read about bushing being replaced and GT3 Lower control arms. The car is 17 years old so might be worth looking into. Do these coil overs require any camber plates or is it optional?
