82 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHow tough is it to find a roller?
Reported repair
Repair motor
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Leading evidence: 'Repair motor' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'aberration' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Repair motor' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Repair motor', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Now, with more engine options being available, many are having their cars repaired instead of dumping them.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My local indy said he has repaired more then a dozen motors with similar cracks over the years with no issues.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
new e-brake cables and hardware and shoes, cable froze up last year, even replaced the aluminum tubes for e-brake
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I had to fix the AC (replaced both condensers and drier).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
82 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Then you get the fun of blowing it up AND getting it fixed!
I've missed my 996 since selling it 6 months ago when we moved from LA to the Bay Area. I'd love to get into a 997.2 but it's a lot of $ for what is still a used car. I'd thought of trying to find a 997 roller and get on the FSI wait list, but 997 rollers seem to be rare and still around $15K if you can find one. That brings me back to a 996. If I can find one in the $5K range, I'd be all in for around $30K with an FSI motor and one hell of a car. Where's the best place to look for a roller? Ideally one in Speed Yellow or Guards Red (I know that may be asking too much).
Facebook and craigslist will have them sometimes. I've even seen them on ebay.
I would also check with your local shops and see if they have any customers that want to get out of a car.
They do appear on here every now and then.
A few years ago they were plentiful. Now, with more engine options being available, many are having their cars repaired instead of dumping them.
Choosing a color like SY or other unique color? Yes, you are asking too much. Most of the cars will be silver
Rollers seems to pop up a decent amount, plenty of people don't want to repair the engines. Keep on eye on auction sites, CL, Facebook market place. I've seen rollers posted in the CL Finds thread on this page.
Well I know right now is a bad time for sellers, but good for the buyers, winter coming and most people either don’t want to store them or don’t want to let them go cheap
I tried selling my 996 and not a single person came to look at it.
Lots of talk but no action.
so just be patient and the right one will come along.
Or look for a cheap runner. They are all over the place for $16Kish (less for cabs and tips) and just drive it until you're ready for a rebuild. An elective build will save you a few bucks vs rebuilding a failed engine.
At this time of year there are quite a few that can be had for under $15K. They will typically be higher miles (over 100K). But, as you say, you can drive them for a while and it gives you a chance to evaluate the other systems on the car (HVAC, suspension, brakes, etc.)
Looked at a pristine 02 cab with 19k, yes 19k miles at a local dealer today. It looked literally brand new with all records since day 1. Asking price was a little high though.
Also watching one on BaT that has an LN 3.8 motor. Decisions decisions...
There's a low mileage roller cab on facebook with no engine or transmission for $5K. That's a little high with no drivetrain but car may be excellent otherwise.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1610963219178885/
2003 Porsche 996
44k
Body is in excellent condition, NO dents or dings, almost no scratches.
The car is missing the motor and transmission, taillights also. Everything else is there and intact
Has KEYS and the interior and top is in great condition. The car is RUST FREE!!!
This is the perfect rolling chassis
May not have been a tip. A picture of the interior would help...although, someone with good eyes might be able to tell from the engine bay shot.
Facebook defaults damn near everything to automatic. 1954 VW? Automatic. 1948 Jeep?-Automatic. You really don't know on a facebook ad without looking.
Facebook calls this old International Harvester an automatic, too
If you make searching for a roller your new favorite hobby you'll probably find one within 3-6 mos. Save, save, save your hyperlinks so that you don't waste too much time filling in the same search queries over and over.
Bill's advice making an offer on a poor runner could work too if the owner is realistic about his/her options with a near-roller. Plenty of folks between a rock and a hard place on Rennlist...
Not trying to overthink this but.... I can spend $20k on a nicely looked after car or $10k on a higher mileage (110k +) running car, book a spot in the queue at FSI, drive the car for a year, hoping it doesn�t go kaboom, then ship it off to Georgia. Sounds good in my head....
The $10K car may be a pipe dream... You might find one with closer to 200K miles that's running but at what point did the PO stop putting money into it. Suspension, tires, brakes, motor mounts, water pump, AOS, it goes on and on!
I bought a '99 996 a couple years for around $10k. It wasn't a bad car...ran good, shifted good, etc and had around 120k miles. I had to fix the AC (replaced both condensers and drier). Also replaced water pump and thermostat. The suspension was tired and needed a refresh and a few other minor things. The car had some "ok" paintwork on a couple body panels as well.
So, it can be done. But, you won't be at $10k for long!
Im still way under $10k and that includes buying a set of wheels and tires for $2k. Car was bought for $4500 and shipped for $1k. Fixed the motor for $200. So it was sold to me as a broke motor roller but i was pretty sure i could fix it. Car has a very good glass out paint job, lots of suspension upgrades, most or the aged parts on the motor were replaced including a ln ims. The car does have 200k on the clock but its super clean inside snd everyrhing works. I didnt even look that hard for my deal but i guess i got lucky?
Hey guys,
I have 99 Porsche 996 c2 6 speed with 97k on the clock that just grenaded itself. Seeing if there�s any interest out there... everything�s good on the car besides the engine. Make me an offer
That's a beautiful car, sorry to hear you experienced catastrophic engine failure. What happened? Normal driving and it went "boom"? or, on the track? Any idea was specifically cause the engine failure?
Well, according to my mechanic: had a small crack in the block that over time let fluid in. Number 5 cylinder hydro locked and sent a rod through the piston....not a 100% on the terminology but the engines toast. I bought the car from the original owner and was never tracked
Yes you did get lucky!
Awesome looking car - these situations don't just pop up every day. I'd say it's more likely an aberration. What was "wrong" with the engine that you were able to "fix" it for $200? Was it just a noise? No start? Electrical? Do tell, as it might help others in a similar situation.
I�m interested. I�m hoping the engine out of my white �99 is rebuildable. Since my youngest son keeps trying to lay claim on my car, this may be the solution
sorry guys, not exactly sure how enable the private messages
shoot me an email and we can talk on there I guess....if super interested just email me and I�ll send my number and we can chat
email:
[email removed]
Po slid off the track and cracked the oil plate and pan. No one wanted to take a chance on the car and it was 4 sale on pellican for over a year. If u search my screen name i think there a few more pics posted in previous threads.
Ahhh... Now I remember this one! Are you a welder (who's comfortable with welding aluminum) or are you friends with someone who is? While I always look to "fix" things, my experience is that not many others do. This includes many otherwise "good" mechanics! I think it's just sort of baked into our culture to "throw it away, and get a new one" (a short block in this case $6-$8k ?)... So, even though you got a good "roller" deal at $4.5k it still must have registered in the back of your mind that you could be on the hook for at least another $6-$8k for a short block or a questionable used motor. In any case, I'd love to have a little more background info on your car -
@De Jeeper
, how long has it been since the repair?
I know it has been quite a while now.
I definitely didn�t think it could be repaired.
I�m glad you took the chance!
I've noticed that cabby rollers come up more often than coupes. Are people using well taken care of cabby drivetrains to replace blown up/hammered coupes?
I have over 3500 miles and burned up a set of rear tires and its still running strong. The welds r in a non structural area so i didnt have a worry about the repair. My local indy said he has repaired more then a dozen motors with similar cracks over the years with no issues. He would always return the car with a skid.
I wish i had more info in the car. I bought it with no car fax site unseen. I was able to track it back to the 2 previous for sale ads. Had brakes, ims, motor mounts and a bunch of misc motor items fixed within 3k miles. The most recent owner did a cage/seats race pads and a buch of suspension work for street/track. I think he tracked it 2-3 times before he spun out hard. He sat in the car for a year and then it was 4 sale for a year. I low balled him and he accepted minus the race seats but it came with factory seats.
I bought the car to do a ls swap because i firgured not many would care if i chopped up a "storied" car. Now im just enjoying the hell out of it. With over 200k a motor will be needed eventually. In the meen time i have a great looking car that handles real well with no rust and looks great for under 9k.
I guess a well sorted out bad motor car should be around 7-10k as a roller, but mostly i see clapped out cars with bad motors at that price.
I did try and sell my 99 c2 coupe but no one would bother to come and look at it.
I even have receipts that go back almost 10 years, 6 years of my ownership.
so I’ll do some more work to it and wait till spring and put t back up then
like said in earlier post just keep looking and the right one will show up when your ready, besides I think the hunt for the right car is just as much fun.
I had it listed on two different chat groups on FB thinking it might sell.
I was planning to list it here too just never did, and I didn’t think I was asking that much for everything I have done to the car plus the
parts that are included with the sale.
a running driving mk1 for $8500. Isn’t a bad price I thought with extras
I guess I’ll have to make an ad on here and see what happens.
You would think it wouldn’t last, but all I got was stupid low ball offers and trade offers.
I was just trying to free room at my house and offer a good deal to someone.
I agree. Even if it is high mileage as long as it runs and drives and isn't bent (frame damage) how did that car not sell? If nothing else you could put a wrap on it and hoon the hell out of it. Even if you blow up the engine you can sell the roller for around $5K.
996 owners and buyers are a fickle lot.
I bought the car in 2013 with 124k miles on it and now it is sitting at 205k miles.
the car was pretty much a daily driver that I had more plans for.
Ocean blue metallic with space gray interior 6 speed.
oil changes have been at 5k mile, fuel filters once a year.
I will list everything I have done to the car since I bought it
CSF aluminum radiators
new water pump with low temp thermostat( about 30k miles on this pump)
coolant flush and fill last year(2018)
new updated coils maybe two years old
assco LWFW and spec stage 2 clutch with sprung hub disc.
ipd plenum
speedtech catted x- pipe with afterhours cup style mufflers
new Bosch alternator and Y-cable.
functionfirst transmission mount new stock motor mounts
ECS wheel spacers and stud kit( didn’t like the bolts)
GT3 center console delete
factory GT3 side skirts and rear spats
row 30 suspension (25k miles roughly)
pads and rotors about same mileage 25 k miles
wheel bearings also same with mileage.
drivers side window regulator assembly.
transmission was upgraded to a 2004 unit, original unit bearings went out and ruined the ring and pinion gear
2nd gear detent installed, shifts smooth with no pop out.
upgraded oil baffle aluminum
now for the items that come with the car that I haven’t had a chance to install or spare parts
new Bosch starter still in box, original one still works but getting weak
pair of headlights no burns in the lenses
new e-brake cables and hardware and shoes, cable froze up last year, even replaced the aluminum tubes for e-brake
new led dash lights still in box
19x8 and 19x10 rims with tires, tires worn. These were on the car when I bought it but with the row 30 they will rub in the rear
new spare water pump and a few hoses
new aos in box
new fuel filter in box
I’m sure I am forgetting somethings that here too.
now for the not so good.
the roof was repainted somewhere in the past and it was a poor job, was planning on have paint work done this year.
windshield has crack along bottom
drivers door just started this in the past month of not opening from the outside, just haven’t had time to pull door panel off to fix
I have two keys for the car but the remotes stopped working long time ago.
the car has been sitting most of the year as I came into a deal I just couldn’t pass up.
the price is $8500. non negotiable as I have too much invested in the car already.
i do have a few other items for the car and will be offered for sale at an extra cost.
The mileage is your biggest obstacle at that price. Too many better 996's out there with half the mileage priced in the low to mid teens. Just my personal opinion. Lots of little things that most don't want to deal with.
Start adding the cost of installation for your boxed parts, windshield, keys etc and you quickly see why it could turn most off.
Well that’s what I’m getting at this thread is about rollers and the price of them.
this is a running driving car for basically a roller price. I have never worried about it leaving me anywhere.
it has been a great car, six years of driving and 80 k miles.
I just don’t have time for 2 996’s thus is why I was offering cheap.
i have put a lot of time in the car and plenty of money in maintenance using correct parts and maintenance schedule even upgrades to better parts.
so please explain how buying a roller for $5-6 k makes much more sense.
because you have no idea what could be wrong with buying a roller.
not trying to argue just stating what I have learned from here and the amount of work I have done with this car.
Sorry it does not come with the car, it can be bought separately.
yes it is a true GT3 deck lid I will be putting up for sale.
I bought from a member here and it has no nicks or cracks, I had it painted to match and that’s it, will even come with the correct wiring harnesses to keep from getting the spoiler malfunction light.
I disagree with that. I tried selling it with it on there for $9500 and the only way I would drop price would be to remove it. I know that deck lid is worth more than $1000.
you see the prices of aftermarket deck lids and this is a factory part. It fits perfectly
Those items will be listed by this weekend on what is for sale.
Porsche roof rack.
factory roll bar. ( missing hardware)
the GT3 deck lid.
set of cylinder heads.
crank and carrier.
cases left and right side. ( bought with intention of rebuilding, has bore score).
and other items.
