Does Genuine Porsche mean factory

I noticed AutohausAZ has a "Genuine Porsche Expansion tank" for $165. Now I just called Porsche and they wanted 700 +. Are they the same thing or am I just hoping. AutohausAZ ad says "any genuine brand part is obtained directly through our vehicle dealership network from your vehicles manufacturer". Quite a price difference but I know I've read over and over to buy genuine. Thanks.

Is it OE Porsche, original equipment Porsche, with a Porsche part number is a Porsche box? Or is it an OEM part made by a manufacturer of Porsche parts? That's the rub and the question you need to figure out. They are not always equal. And don't futz around with a non Porsche expansion tank. Unless you want to do the labor twice.

At that price delta it's definitely an "OEM supplier" part. Same part, same factory, same mfgr but no Porsche P/N stamped on it and no Porsche box.

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It's always good to make sure you're buying the part from an authorized Porsche part resellers like Pelican, but when in doubt, order from the dealership. The terms - O.E., OEM, and even "genuine" can be misused in the parts business. The aftermarket expansion tanks are so prone to failure and so hard to install, I would say, don't risk it, but buy it from Pelican or your local dealership. https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/GR-99610614756 I'm not sure if your car is the mk1 or mk2, but let's assume it's a mk1. Those tanks are a lot more expensive from Porsche than the mk2 for some reason. Now, if you notice the link above, AutohausAZ is selling this 996 expansion tank for just $183. That's 1/3 of the Porsche dealership price. You have to wonder, right? But look at the ad. It says, "German" expansion tank, NOT OEM "genuine" factory tank. Now, if you dig a little deeper, you'll find this on the same website, https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99610614756 Same tank, but it's $541.90 and it says "Geniune" Porsche Expansion tank. That lines up with the dealerships.... https://www.porscheatlantaperimeterp...caAv1DEALw_wcB When in doubt, always order from the dealership. Good luck!

Not to hijack thread but why does Porsche think "their" parts(with number and in Porsche box) are gold plated. Is it like this with all higher end automobile companies? The oldest kid had a Lexus SUV and needed a new remote key fob. He was pissed at how much Lexus wanted to buy and program which was similar to Porsche. I just smiled when he was whining to me. Porsche tax as it has been called.

Argeo - What year is your car? There is a big difference in the cost of the tank depending on the year.

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99610615703 This is the one I was talking about. Considering we have all done this or are going to, what is everyone else using?

Sorry, 2002. I told the dealer that.

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The smart ones listen and use a Genuine Porsche Coolant tank. Other try to save a buck and end up doing it twice... Your link takes me to a page that has been removed.

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The reason is like any other Car Mfg ..... They can sell enough of their overpriced parts for warranty , insurance claims and dealership inventory that they can continue to sell to those segments at an inflated cost and thus the need for Aftermarket and OEM equivalent parts ...... If you do your home work you can always obtain quality parts substantially cheaper than the dealer.

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It's not necessarily the exact same quality part. You really cannot be sure anymore and the number of counterfeit parts hitting the market makes this even worse. OEM suppliers make their own "copies" all the time that are not necessarily up to the standards of what they supplied to the factory, and they are allowed to do so after a set amount of time producing the factory supplied "original" part. When a car company contracts a part to be made, version 1 goes to the factory to be installed as new. That same version filters into the parts supply chain for a set amount of time. Once that expires, all bets are off on the quality of the part that will fill the shelves for the remaining life of that part in the system. Talk to any independent repair shop, they'll tell you as time goes on the frequency of parts that start to fall in quality. One shop I frequent has gotten to the point certain parts, like BMW brake rotors, they will only buy from the dealership regardless of cost. Ordering the OEM / OE parts form anywhere else simply isn't the same quality and they got sick of doing warranty work on rotors.

The link must have been blocked which is understandable. So I guess what part are people using that they have been okay with? If I have to I will pay 700 I will but maybe others have paid less and been happy. I am surprised there is not a dip that one can dip the tank into seal all the cracks. Or some type of patch kit. Rough the plastic up a bit and patch. Seems possible. "I'm an accountant Jim, not an engineer"

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No, you stated you have the 2002 996, correct? Then the genuine Porsche tank is relatively cheap compared to the mk1 tank. Buy it from Suncoast Porsche for just $139.95. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99610615703.html And... don't even think about pouring some liquid all-in-wonder patch into the coolant system to fix a $139 problem. You'll end up creating a $20,000 problem.

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Google and shop for the best price. Specials come and go all the time.

Problem solved. I called Porsche back and told him the whole year thing. He rechecked. After the PCA discount, $161. Phew! Thank everyone, David

Hey Nutty, I wasn't going to dump radiator sealer into my 996. Save that for my ranger. Agree, terrible idea. I was talking any outside a tank sealer to seal a hot, plastic tank under low pressure.

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You should check out Jake Raby's video on installing the expansion tank. Will give you an idea of the steps to use. You Tube

Thanks, that's what I am going off of. The problem I run into is stupid things like how to disconnect plastic fittings or when I jack the motor back up to put the nuts back on, how high do I jack the car up? Do I jack to the point where the car is about to lift, when the car does lift or other. Then what do I torque to? The videos are super high level. I do appreciate them but just wish they mentioned torques. 1st world problem.

Once you start the job, a lot of what you ask about becomes obvious. Torques are all in a book from the knowledge group ( http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/in...96-automobile/ ), well worth the $50 or so it costs. Similarly, if you are going to DIY your 996, the Bentley manual ( http://www.bentleypublishers.com/por...formation.html ) is essential. Both are as valuable tools as any other in your shop.

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Most of the work is done on the top of the engine. The engine needs to be lowered a far as it will allow and as shown in the video, the bottom of the engine needs to be supported for safety reasons. Why not mention torque values? I think it has to do with liability because the torque values change as fasteners change. In some cases, the torque value would be lower and so if you're using a shop manual from 20 years ago that has a higher torque value, you could break the newer fastener. Make sense? Regarding disconnecting hoses, my best advice is to take your time and take a lot of photographs along the way. If you run into a problem trying to disconnect a hose, post your question here on RL and I'm sure someone will help you. Some of the hoses (i.e. fuel lines) can be confusing to remove if you've never done it before. Also, make sure you remove the coolant level sensor BEFORE you try to remove the tank. You should also replace that sensor when replacing the tank. Good luck!

Why not invest in the proper work books since you plan on doing your own repairs? Every question you've asked is answered in these manuals, Bentley and The Knowledge Groups book on M96 torque specs are the two first things I bought. It's a vital part of owning these or any car you want to maintain...

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Oops, you beat me to it.

Thanks Nutty. Bill, great advice and totally agree. I am working on it. Used my Bentley for everything on my old Boxster. Waiting for a used one to pop up.

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https://www.autopartsway.com/part.cf...335&position=0 Don't wait, you need one now! Use common sense, you don't want to lift the weight of you car with the jack under the motor!

I sort of knew that, I need to be more careful with my posts.

This is my last project for a while. I try to do one thing a year. My work space is tiny and the weather is a bit cold. Still not sure how I replaced the springs on my boxster and painted a 911 in there. Anyhow, I hope to Fix this, change the oil and enjoy next March/April. That's the plan anyways. It did scare the hell out of me the other day. I forgot to hook up the Airflow meter (I think that's the name) on the air filter box. Started car and it barely ran. Not sure why I put in 1st but I did. I think I just wanted to get out of the garage is back end in. I put in 1st and the brakes were a bit stuck from sitting for a while. Brakes released, car went forward and the ABS and PSM lights came on. I was like dam, this ain't good. Well I turned off, and realized the airflow meter not hooked up. Connected and started like a champ. Drove around but the warning lights stayed on. Figured I would need my durametric to perhaps turn off. Parked and turned back on and everything is back to normal.

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Chock your tires and put it in gear without setting the handbrake if you're not going to drive it. When wet the brake pads and rotors rust to each other.

Now this might be a really stupid question but before I go any further. What level is the coolant suppose to be when the engine is cold. I just noticed the same car as mine with the coolant right at the min line like mine. I just checked some video and it said the car should be at least the min line. I believe the owners manual says between max and min when cold. I go above that line, it leaks out. Sorry, I should have asked early but just noticed this on that BAT car.

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I purchased one new, from a member here. He advertised as Porsche factory part. 2003 996.2 Now I wonder, I am having it installed in the the Spring. How do I verify factory Porsche and OEM supplier?

Don't forget the new coolant tank cap to go with the new tank. If yours is leaking the cap isnt having to hold as much pressure back, and its likely old anyway..