Torque Wrench?

Any recommendations on a brand or spec's when choosing a torque wrench? I think it looks like SEARS and Harbor Freight have the best prices/most choices. Any advice on which one to get would be appreciated. There are short ones, longs ones, metric combos, digital, ...........and so on. Thanks

To Clarify - the wrench will be used primarily to remove the lug nuts!! Thanks

Recently discussed topic in the Racing/DE forum: https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/288442-favorite-most-durable-torque-wrench.html

I had been told by my mechanic NOT to use my torque wrench to remove lug nuts, only to put them on. Anybody..........?

I was told the same thing as well. My understanding is most torque wrenches are designed for clockwise operation.

Use the large craftsman lug TR, rubber reinforced.

Yup, do NOT use the torque wrench to remove your nuts just use a normal nut remover (like a 4-way). The torque wrench is just that, to torque them down. Nothing else. I bought two and got them both at Sears. For smaller Nm/ft-lbs (smaller jobs) I went with a dial type and for the nuts I went with the larger one with the window readout for exact Nm/ft-lb Here are the 2 I went with: 25-250 ft-lb 10-75ft-lb

To remove or loosen lug nuts, get one of these (make sure it is metric). It has 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 22mm sockets. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

Perfect info, thanks!

While i do NOT suggest to use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts, a torque wrench CAN be very usefull in removing nuts etc... If you do not know what something is torqued at, using a torque wrench can tell you what the nut was at. For instance, if you think a bolt is stretching and causing the nut to periodically loosen or something along that nature... -Keith

Carrera4, I think that this is the one that I have. It's all metal and 1/2" drive. Don't forget to store the torque wrench at a "0" setting (relaxed) to help maintain it's accuracy. I was taught that storing it on the last setting (e.g. 98 ft-lbs) can cause it to become less accurate over time. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes To take off lug nuts I use a 1/2 inch drive flex handle. These things are great because you can also use a piece of pipe to extend the lever arm and exert even more torque for those times that some idiot before you used an air wrench set on "high". I think it works a lot better than those "X" type wrenches which do not have as much mechanical advantage. Besides, you will already have purchased the socket needed to fit the lug nut if you're going to use the torque wrench. You'll just need to also get a short 3-5 inch extender so that you get both the torque wrench and the flex bar safely away from potentially scratching the wheel or body. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes Good luck and have fun. The next step is to spoil yourself with a really nice aluminum floor jack... Go ahead and get something that you'll enjoy using it for a long time. I don't try to save too much money on inexpensive tools anymore. I did that before and it wasn't worth the frustration. Tonger

I would recommend Precision Instrument split beam TR http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/PRE-C3FR250F.html I've seen them being used at tire shops all the time plus they have a flexible head that provides better angle to tighten the nuts. Best thing is you don't need to reset it to 0 everytime after use! Also, PI used to supply the same TR to snapon... The only drawback is it has 5ftlb increment but then at that torque level (40-250 ftlb), rounding it off to 5ftlb should not matter. - Ahsai

I have a few. You do not use a torque tool to remove a fastener. At least I don't. Loaned out a torque wrench some years ago and it was used like a breaker bar. Broke my wrench. You can buy a wrench that will only go clockwise. I now have one like that to loan out. Top of the pic. Best bang for the buck is Husky. I have one. Also have Snap-On and all that stuff. But Husky is a cost effective tool for the DIYer. Do not like the $30 Asian wrenches.

Tool Pants - that is the understatement of the month!!!!

Thanks for the info AND photos. Will purchase tomorrow and plan on getting into some kind of trouble with them this weekend. Its either gonna' be a mod of some sort or getting the undercarriage to look like Orient Express'. Will post photos of whatever the event turns into.

I saw a torque wrench at walmart for about $28. Why the big price difference here, and what's wrong with this al-cheapo model? Is it good enough if only used for tightening wheel lug bolts?

Can't answer your first question directly, but why is a Bently more pricy than a KIKIA? Yes, it should be good enough to snug up your wheel bolts.

I think I saw the same thing at our Wal mart and considered it. I figured it would break too easily. Since I rarely use one, I just rent one from Autozone or O'Reilleys (they refund 100% when you return it so it's free, as long as you return it. It's appx $100 if you don't return it.

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http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...T5HCLJAD500439 This is what I use at the shop. It is the same as Snap-On (they get them from Precision for a lot more $$$). With the split beam design, you do not have to worry about resetting the torque all the time to keep it set properly... Oh and to the question of why a good torque wrench, well I have seen guys come into the shop missing lugnuts with wheels ready to fall off. I have seen lugnuts torqued to INSANE torques that required expensive removal of the lugnuts. These were done by guys that swore they had their wrenchs set properly. I am sure they did. But if the calibration is way off, you really have no idea what torque you are setting....

does anyone know what to torque the lugnut to on the wheel

I think it's 94 ft/lb

Should be 96lb's