Replaced Ignition Switch but Now my 996 WON'T Start

I know there are a lot of posts about the problematic ignition switch. Unfortunately, I have not found one that addresses my particular issue so I am starting this new thread. My apologies if this has been answered...I looked but didn't find one. My switch started acting up about a week ago. The key was difficult to turn and when fully turned clockwise to start the car it seemed to stick there. Car was running but no lights nor wipers. So I had to turn the key very, very slightly counterclockwise and all was fine. But clearly something was up. After a couple of days, the car electronics wouldn't completely shut down when I turned the key to off (position 0). The engine stopped but the radio stayed on. When I removed the key (with a little jiggling to free it) and opened the door, the dash warned me the they key was still in the ignition. So I bought a replacement switch for less than $15. Today I replaced it (after struggling to loosen the two screws). Now the key goes in smoothly. It turns very smoothy too and all accessories come on. Everything seems to be perfect except for one thing....the car won't start. Nothing. No cranking whatsoever. It is possible the switch is faulty? Is it possible that the clutch interlock switch is faulty? It seems very unlikely that the clutch switch would fail right after I replace the ignition switch. Has anyone replace the ignition switch and immediately after replacement your Porsche wouldn't start? I followed the instructions exactly as Pedro detailed. Other sites say to disconnect the battery, put the key in and ensure it's in the 0 position. Remove the old switch, put the key back in and ensure it's in the 0 position and then finally plug in the new switch. I didn't do any of those things. But now I'm stuck with a nicely turning ignition switch that does not start my car. Please help. Thanks. John

Sounds like a bad part. Either swap that one out with the same model or spring for the $30 switch. Spoiler alert: even if you swap out your $15 switch with the same model and it works, you still wanna buy a $30 one and throw it in the door pocket for when the $15 one dies (somewhere between a month and a year from now).

Check your clutch switch. You just had your head stuck stuck down there you might have pulled a wire off or ??

Always go back to the last thing you did - replace the ignition switch electrical part. Swap back in the old funky one and give it a try. Sounds like you might have got the wrong part. You can bypass the clutch switch with a simple wire to take it out of the equation.

Thanks to those who replied. It helped me fix the problem. 1) I bypassed the clutch switch just in case that was involved. That didn't help so I reconnected it. 2) I removed the new ignition switch. This time I ensured it was in the off position. I don't know if it was in the correct position when I first installed it. But at the end of the switch that goes in first (mine is yellow) is where the end of the key gets inserted. I figured that if the key goes in the 0 position then this switch should also be set to that position. So I turned yellow slot to the 0 position with a flat head screwdriver. 3) I reinstalled it and presto, the car starts perfectly. 4) I have no idea if item 2 above was the issue because I'm not really sure if the key could have been inserted if the yellow slot was in the wrong initial position. Nonetheless, if you are installing a new switch make sure it's in position 0 before doing so. Perhaps simply removing and reinstalling the switch made for a proper connection and that solved it. Regardless....it all good now. Thanks John

Good job! Thanks for closing the loop.

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I had exactly the same problem today. Unfortunately, you don't mention where position 0 is located, there are no markings on the plastic around the yellow thing either. In my case I just turned it about 1/16" to the side and reinstalled and it worked. I used $15 part and the key is rotating smoothly, but a few times after fix it wouldn't start still. Seems like there's a little misalignment somewhere. I would appreciate if someone shows where exactly that position 0 is. Also, I got an airbag error after this, any ideas? I'm pretty sure its related.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...on_Switch.html Make sure the electrical switch is aligned correctly. You will need Durametric or equivalent to turn off the airbag light. Position 0 is car off and key out. A lot of threads about using the cheap $15 switch. You should buy the one for about $30 from Pelican Parts.

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Thanks for quick reply. I know where position 0 is in key hole, it's just i didn't know how exactly it had to stay on the switch itself. The DIY guide you linked explains this greatly, too bad i was using other guides that don't even mention this problem. I don't have durametric, can some auto parts store like autozone clear it with their equipment? Thank you!

The higher end snapon or marco units can turn it off. It takes 5min to do im betting any local shop will fo it for free.

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Don't bet on that. It costs them to buy the tool, it should cost you to use the tool.

I just did this whole switch as well, I did not need a durametric tool. My key was stuck in the ignition.

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They did it for free for me . There r shops and people out there that still do the right thing and dont mind doing simple things for no more then a thank you.

I had ignition switch issues two weeks ago. In my experience the switch has to be fully seated to work correctly, and I did not get it right the first time. Unluckily for me, the car was stuck in a local parking lot. My key would not go back into the ignition. There appeared to be a tab keeping it from going in. So, I bought the switch from Autozone (Duralast) and installed. At first, this partially worked in that the key would go in, but not turn. All I could do was take the new switch out and reinstall and that worked. While reinstalling it, I noticed that unless I held the part closest to the top down as I was screwing it in, it wasn't fully "in." The switch came for me at the correct position. Turning the plastic part at the bottom 45 degrees (essentially "on") activated the car's electrics but did not allow it to be installed all the way in. YMMV.