63 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTools, ramps, jacks/stands ect. recomendations
Leading reported evidence
Run over this lamp in my subaru
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Couple of days ago I accidentally ran over this lamp in my Subaru.
Leading evidence: 'Run over this lamp in my subaru' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check their website, they have a measurement calculation' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Most of my Porsche and MB tools I've accumulated over the years, Spline wrench from 944's are used on 996's.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
The hockey pucks were used on top of the cross beam to support along the edge of the sump when dropping the engine.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
A decent metric socket set also, but be aware Porsche uses odd sizes for make sure set has 13, 15, 16 and 18mm, same for wrenches (many kits will have 10, 12, 14, 17, 19).
Set around 22", low lift transmission jack, floor jack
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Just pulled my engine and transmission using 4 of the 6-ton jack stands from HF set around 22", low lift transmission jack, floor jack with a cross beam, and a couple hockey pucks.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
A decent metric socket set also, but be aware Porsche uses odd sizes for make sure set has 13, 15, 16 and 18mm, same for wrenches (many kits will have 10, 12, 14, 17, 19).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
63 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
no more issues lifting my car up and keeping her stable in the air!
I currently have assorted sockets, screwdrivers and wrenches in my collection of tools. I'm building my "new" toolbox and supporting misc. items needed for basic DIY for my 996.2
What do you folks suggest? Brands? Suppliers?
Mike T
Rhino ramps - not all drive-on ramps fit under the 996 nose. The black plastic ones from Autozone fit.
A set of small security Torx bits.
A set of Torx drivers
A set of metric hex drivers
Torque wrenches, decent - maybe 2, since there's a tremendous variance in torque specs for various 996 fasteners (It's REALLY easy to strip out some of the lower-torque fasteners like the water pump bolts)
PB Blaster (or a truckload of EZ Outs) for headers, cats, mufflers, etc.
Make your own set of ramps. Couple of 2x8 and some screws are all that is required. Can cut with hand saw or easier if you have circular saw. Directions all over the web. To me they seem much more sturdy than the plastic rhino ramps.
I don't have a set of these, but I definitely wouldn't mind having some. They allow you to get your car up on jack stands in just a few steps rather than back and forth around and around.
http://liftbars.com/
Don't scrimp on the tort or hex sockets. But the best quality you can afford (hunt classified and you can often find SnapOn or other premium brands for less than half price in like new condition). A decent metric socket set also, but be aware Porsche uses odd sizes for make sure set has 13, 15, 16 and 18mm, same for wrenches (many kits will have 10, 12, 14, 17, 19).
I use race ramps and love them. They feel really solid. Jack stands can be any major manufacturer. I second lift bars, I had them for the 928 and they really come in handy. Definitely buy chocks.
The Rhino ramps are cheap, light, store anywhere (because they're light), and do not absorb liquids. While I applaud all DIY efforts, this is one of those tools where the real thing has some real-world benefits, at least to me.
If you're too cheap to buy a good floor jack (like me) and/or the proper jack adapters to mate with the factory lift points, a 4-pack of rubber hockey pucks is also essential.
I really like them too. A great feature besides their super light weight is that once the car is in place, you can remove the ramp parts to get better access.
The Rhino Ramps are also double the weight capacity of the Race Ramps.
I made my own lift bar, it wasn't too hard (and I'm no welder
).
I initially just bought two but was so impressed, I bought a second pair.
OP, you didn't say what your budget is but I really like these battery powered Milwaukee tools.
But they also have real world draw backs like brittle plastic. There are threads on other car forums where the honeycomb inside breaks, cracks, etc. At one point do they lose structural integrity? Also, I own 4 different cars and a truck. I was able to cut the ramps to the length that would work for any of them. You mentioned storage, mine for one on top of the other, inverted, and slide under the lower shelf on the common wire rack shelves out of the way.
For fluids, just seal them with any wood sealer. The ones I bought are pressure treated so I didn't bother but I don't recall ever having anything spilled on them but it is possible.
Rhino ramps are good for what they are, cheap, time saving ramps. The step from there are race ramps at much higher price and lower weight rating. Next after is the trick aluminium ramps. Much more money.
I got a set of QwickJacks and looooooove them!
Should have gotten them years ago... no more issues lifting my car up and keeping her stable in the air!
Lots of different length extensions is a must, wobble head sockets and extensions is a good idea, triple square sockets and drivers are needed, foot/pound and inch/pound torque wrenches are needed.
PATIENCE!!!
Look up things to do on your car here and on pelican parts web site... buy a book or two...
Mine have been fine for a decade, give or take - but I'll keep an eye out since those failure modes seem less than ideal.
My only gripe so far is that they don't fit under the nose of my '96 Corvette - but NOTHING fits under the nose of a '96 Corvette.
+1 on the triple square socket bits. I ran into a few of these fasteners and didn't realize what they were at first. I was unable to find a set locally and had to order them online. It's a bummer when you have to stop because you don't have the correct tool.
I wish my 996 was with worth what my Snap On's are.
I'd need to step up to a Turbo @least..
Though some of my Hazet hand tools are nice also.
You need to buy speciality tools sometimes as the job warrants, though now days I borrow a lot of general auto speciality tools from parts resellers.
Most of my Porsche and MB tools I've accumulated over the years, Spline wrench from 944's are used on 996's.
Crows feet sockets are another that come for the job, along with O2 wrenches etc.
Mike
I would love a set of those, but with Aero Skirts and lowered suspension, I can barely get an low profile floor jack under the car.
Looking at the short video snip, the car looks like it is 6" up before sliding the unit under the car.
I find that I can put on a Ed Jenkins lift pad, then slide a very low profile jack under the rear jack point. The car is rigid enough that this lift point raises both front and rear enough to put blocks under the tires. From there I slide the lift arms under. My car is ~30mm below stock Carerra height with aerokit side skirts.
I'm lower-risk than average and LIFTBARS looks like a safe way to get entire 996 to low-lift position. Could it safely reach medium-lift position allowing clearance of dropped assembled M96?
Watching their short video clip I would try to add 2 to 4 more jackstands giving 6 to 8 points of support, or lift with a jack on each side and leave those in place with small upwards pressure to add support and stability.
http://liftbars.com/
Offset driver set comes in handy for tight places. I just picked up a set from
Chapman Manufacturing
. They make a nice line of screwdriver, Torx, star, and hex bits. Really handy for the front speakers and some of the hard to reach places under/behind the dash.
I�ve been buying/collecting/using tools since I was 12 or 13 years old working on bicycles (I was using tools earlier but they were my dad�s or grandfathers - I�ve still got some of these as well). I�ve still got most of everything I�ve ever bought - especially the good stuff (a lot of old Craftsman, Snap-on, S-K, Proto etc.). You can never have too many tools (I�m a certified tool junkie). The old adage �the right tool for the job� can�t be under estimated - it really is true, and can mean the difference between a successful job or your car breaking down later and leaving you stranded. What�s worse is that using the wrong tools can lead to serious injury or even death. I don�t think it�s always necessary to buy the best/most expensive tool available - if you�re only going to use it occasionally, �good quality� is probably good enough. Obviously, safety can�t be skimped on (when it comes to jacks, jack stands etc.) and always check them before use...
I adore my Milwaukee M12 and M18 cordless power tools.
I have many.
Couple of days ago I accidentally ran over this lamp in my Subaru. Ran right over it. Yes, I could tell something was not right, but I thought it was just a chunk of ice. It is a bit scuffed up, but needless to say still works!
How high do we need to raise the bottom of our 996 to comfortably remove the suspension, and the drivetrain? The liftbars below with high-lift jacks (2) and stands from Harbor Freight are about $1k total and look like they can raise bottom of vehicle 24 inches off the ground. 24 inches doesn't allow sitting under vehicle and so it doesn't seem comfortable to work on suspension, and pretty sure that not high enough to slide engine out after dropping.
Just pulled my engine and transmission using 4 of the 6-ton jack stands from HF set around 22", low lift transmission jack, floor jack with a cross beam, and a couple hockey pucks. Here are the links:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...nds-61197.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-61232.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...eam-60762.html
I did all my suspension work from less than 24". Simply used a roller stool for 80%, and a creeper for remaining portion. Quite comfortable really, and no still neck from working overhead.
Now to drop an engine, is a different matter and needs a little more lift. That said, I also dropped my transmission and did a RMS and IMS at about 24" lift.
Also did my suspension and brakes using lift bars and jack stands for most work and a low creeper for the under car work No problem. Same with oil and filter changes.
Great information guys thanks. Yaz996 did you remove the intake manifold or something else to reduce engine height? Engine seems a lot taller than 22" to slide under bumper. And what does the cross beam contact when lifting the vehicle? The jacking points are much further apart than width of cross beam.
HF also has 12-ton stands that reach up to 30", if set at 24" I'm guessing they are very stable.
If engine can be removed from around 24" lift height; two jacks, 4 stands, and maybe the liftbars might be the way to go for us. Set up and storage vastly easier than a scissor or post lift, and cost a few hundred to a few thousand less.
I put my jack stands on 6x6" blocks - I needed 25 1/2" clearance to remove my engine. It wasn't "comfortable" underneath the car (due to height I mean - the car was rock solid on the stands) but certainly workable, with plenty of room to move around if you don't mind being on your back.
I didn't have to remove the intake manifold, but it was a consideration if I was short on clearance. Engine height is about 26" from top of manifold to bottom of the sump. Removing the rear bump including the aluminum piece buys you about 10". The hockey pucks were used on top of the cross beam to support along the edge of the sump when dropping the engine. When jacking the vehicle, I initially got the front jack points on 15" stands. After that I was able to use the cross beam to reach the points just outside the center brace for the rear and both reinforced locations in the front.
Also considered the 12-ton stands, but I found the 6-tons stable at the height I had them.
Apparently this jacking system lifts Porsche and other unibody vehicles up to 6600 lbs. Price is good and when car tilted should have plenty of clearance to roll out engine. Wonder what drawbacks are? Sale until 11/24.
Glad to hear that our tools have come in handy for you and thanks so much for recommending them! We're a small shop in Durham, CT (about 15 of us) and because we don't have a large ad budget, most of our new customers come from current customers. Thanks again for spreading the word
Joel
VP @ Chapman MFG
@z driver 88t
I still use that system out of necessity, but I have had a car fall off of it. No damage to me or the vehicle fortunately, but it shook me up. I am saving up for a four post lift now.
Here’s a picture of what I prefer if I don’t have to take the wheels off. It’s a PITA, but it feels (feels?) safer than jack stands to me.
Can you please explain what happened to allow a vehicle to fall off a liftbar or jackstand? Before long we will be rebuilding our suspension and must be as safe as possible.
The left side of the car was already suspended on jackstands. I was jacking up the right side of the car to the same height as the left side when the left front corner slipped off the jackstand.
So I was jacking it at the time. It’s not like it fell for no apparent reason. It still freaked me out.
I’ve learned that one of the dangers of trolly jacks is that they can impart a lateral force as well as an up-and-down force, just due to the geometry of the swingarm as it rises. That lateral force can push the car off a jack stand. You can zero out this lateral force by stopping a couple of times as you lift to tug the jack in the right direction. I am more careful about doing this now.
^^ This is correct^^ The car will move in the direction of the wheels, so be careful, take your time and readjust the jack stands every 2 or 3 pumps of the jack...
Did this operation involve Liftbars or some other device between your jackstand and the jack point? Liftbars are designed for a particular Porsche model, and one version is in the image below:
Trolley jack sounds like a better name than floor jack because it informs the user of the critical point you mention; the jack must roll to avoid imparting a side load on jack stands and its own lifting pad that could cause them to slide off or tip over. We're gathering info for a write up on safely manually lifting a 996, so any info forum members have on Liftbars, cribs, trolley jacks, jack stands, etc. please share.
^^^^
This X eleventy. Positive locking only.
I don't get under a car with only sheet metal jack stands.
Cheapo sheet metal stands are fine for supporting a trans or parts but not the whole car if I am putting my body underneath.
Also invest in a decent jack. No cheap China junk.
I prefer AC hydraulics. I have been using their products for decades and they work flawlessly. DK20Q is awesome.
http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/
@996.2
No, i wasn’t using a lift bar to connect the jack stands. I’ve never seen that before. You taught me something new. Seems very sensible.
The car that fell off my jack stands was not a Porsche.
@Catharpin
I will echo your comment on quality jacks. Buying a cheap one is a false economy cause you’re gonna buy the expensive one eventually. Just buy it first and skip the headaches.
I am pretty happy with my four post lift. I do about 5 to 6 engine drops a year and the lift has always come through for that. As for jacks, I no longer buy HF jacks. They break, they leak, and they will kill me one day so … only the trusty ones at this time.
I weighed my 99 C2 a couple of months ago. Nearly full of fuel it weighed 3,160 lbs. I use the 5,000 lb Quickjack. It works great. Also lifts my wife's 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee, nearly at maximum capacity.
In the case of Quickjacks, it's not about the weight. Check their website, they have a measurement calculation to determine the best fit. As I remember the 3500 one is too short for the lift points on a 996.
Hmm,
I never did consider that. I guess I just assumed they would work on the 996 due to all the recommendations I had read from other 996 owners. I don't have any pictures of the boxes they came in, but a 911 was prominently displayed on the box. That must have confirmed it for me....at least in my mind's eye.
NO INFORMATION IN THIS POST A RECOMMENDATION FOR ANY TECHNIQUE OR PROCEDURE AND USER ASSUMES ALL RISK WHICH INCLUDES LOSS OF LIFE AND SERIOUS DAMAGE TO VEHICLE.
Without a lift got our 996 up 22 1/2" today, which may be enough to drop engine and if not we could get a few inches higher. While raising vehicle it is stable supported by 4 points, and when resting rock solid on 6 points of support for total 60,000 lbs weight capacity. Makes 5000 lbs Quckjack look pretty wimpy.
$558 for two Harbor Freight floor jacks and four 12-ton jack stands. $325 liftbars and shipping. To increase safety margin will get pair of 6-ton jackstands $50, for about $933 total including tax.
Scissor jack provides clearance to slip trolley jack under liftbar.
Repositioned trolley jack towards rear because liftbar needs to be kept nearly level, and front of vehicle was much higher than rear when jack in middle. Will ask manufacturer if common practice to put jack near center of gravity.
"3-ton" jack stands on lowest setting 12 1/2" clearance to sump. Important note on these jack stands; instructions say weight rating is
for a pair
, so each stand has a capacity of 3000 lbs, and I would keep way below that. Might not have been needed but put a dab of heavy grease on stand saddles because liftbar rotates as each side raised.
Little stands 1 or 2 clicks from highest setting sump 17" from ground. I would never take a jack stand to max extension due to decrease in stability. Jack should only be raised a little on each side at a time, and the gap from small jack stand to large was too much, next time will have medium height jack stands to bridge the gap.
Big jack stands on lowest setting 19 3/4" clearance. This is super stable major earthquake unlikely to wobble it. Trolley jack always moving inwards or outwards and when going higher from here starts moving more due to angle of arm so ensure no pavement cracks or anything impedes free movement,
and jack pad and jack stand saddles will shift off center so we had to closely watch them and reposition to keep centered.
Big jack stands extended two or three clicks, height from ground to sump 22 1/2". Jack could go about 3" higher, but we wouldn't take it much further as full extension decreases safety margin unacceptably. If we need more clearance maybe we will fabricate a wood block to fit over jack pad and have a U shape on top to ensure liftbar never slips off jack pad. That might be a good addition even if not needing additional lift.
This system is probably lowest cost and easiest set-up and storage that provides unobstructed access to entire under body and sufficient height to drop suspension and engine. You have to be on your game ensuring jack pad and stand saddles stay centered, and don't get complacent and try to speed up and lift one side much higher than the other, and once up on the 6 support points this is probably as safe or safer than the biggest post lifts set in deep reinforced concrete.
I have to agree on Rhino ramps. I have a set that is probably 15 years old or more and still going. For simple quick things they are awesome.
I have jacking pucks from a forum member but no lift bars.
I�ve looked into race ramps but they seem really pricey for what they are.
Hand tools.... yes snap on are good. I could on for hours about hand tools. Here is the short of it. Watch amazon, ebay and CL for quality tool sets. I prefer Snap On, Matco, and SK (superchrome) and Klein screwdrivers.
I own a lot of Williams tools, which is snap ons industrial brand. I bought a $5000 set on amazon for less than $2000 by being patient and watching. The toolset arrived on a pallet and was left in my garage by a forklift.
You want tools made in the US or taiwan. Avoid that country.... you know the one. All your big box store stuff is made there. Even Gearwrench has decent Taiwan tools.
Most major companies including williams has a mix of US and Taiwan products ( so does Snap On ). toolsdelivered dot com sells Williams at good prices (still cross shop) and the clearly show which sets are made where.
996.2, thanks for posting those details. This is essentially what I did (sans lift bars) to remove my transmission. Just reading it makes me grateful for my Quickjacks
