18 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWater Pump or coolant tank
Leading reported evidence
Replace t fitting, all the hoses look great
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I replaced the T fitting, all the hoses look great.
Leading evidence: 'Replace t fitting, all the hoses look great' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'cap' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check before' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
The first thing I would check before changing the tank is the part number on the coolant tank cap.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
If you're not comfortable with flushing the coolant system and disconnecting/reconnecting fuel and coolant lines, then, by all means, pay the professional $500 to handle it for you.
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Suggestion
If you're not comfortable with flushing the coolant system and disconnecting/reconnecting fuel and coolant lines, then, by all means, pay the professional $500 to handle it for you.
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Suggestion · Original poster
That guy seems to disconnect the two rubber hoses connected to the tank and the sensor and then slide out while working around the plastic lines (what are those?).
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Suggestion
If you're not comfortable with flushing the coolant system and disconnecting/reconnecting fuel and coolant lines, then, by all means, pay the professional $500 to handle it for you.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
18 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T200546Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Just completed water pump. I seem to have a slow leak from the tank. I replaced the T fitting, all the hoses look great. It appears to be coming from the back side of the tank.
Now the question is, do I tackle myself or leave to the pros? My concern is the two plastic lines (from the video I watched, appears gas line?) that need to be disconnected before lowering the motor (not any rubber hoses off the tank, just had those off). Are they prone to breaking when messed with? How about the level sensor on the side of the tank, is that hard to remove?
Is the job worse or better than the water pump?
It is worse than the water pump job, but just a little. It does involve lowering the engine a couple inches to get more clearance. The gas lines are not that bad. If you can do the water pump, you can do the coolant tank. The hard plastic hoses are prone to breaking so be careful, or just replace them.
This is not out of the reach for the average DIY'r. Jake Raby did a video on his Rennvision YouTube channel. It's step-by-step. My tank cracked last year and the problem didn't heal itself. You should also make sure you purchase a genuine Porsche coolant expansion tank. Don't go aftermarket on this part. Good luck!
Now if they break, does the motor have to come out to fix? That's my big fear with this car, if something else breaks, I won't be able to fix the new issue.
I watched the LN video a few times and it really doesn't appear that bad but it seems like it could go south real quick if one of those lines break.
If it is more likely than not that I am going to break a line, it seems to me that the smart choice is to have a guy that has done it before (numerous times) do it and pay the $500 in labor versus me breaking something I can't fix in my garage and need to tow to get fixed. I guess the question is, is it more likely than not for one of those lines to break under the hands of a semi garage hack that I am.
Thanks for the replies. Sometimes I just need to talked off the bridge.
No, the engine must be lowered. If you're not comfortable with flushing the coolant system and disconnecting/reconnecting fuel and coolant lines, then, by all means, pay the professional $500 to handle it for you. The tanks aren't cheap either. The mk1 is crazy expensive compared to the mk2 tank.
Now the video above is interesting. 1st, the guy never lowers the motor. That guy seems to disconnect the two rubber hoses connected to the tank and the sensor and then slide out while working around the plastic lines (what are those?). Later on in the video he is attaching the gas lines. Did I miss when he disconnected? Are those hard to get off and is there some strange reburping issue when reconnected?
I didn't know I could just remove the funnel of the air filter box. That's good to know.
Observation, my impression is the tank only lowers to a spec below the minimum line. Could that be related to the overflow line. From the video, it seems like that line is right around where that enters the tank though I could be wrong. Seems it should be above the max line.
The tank is white and appears to be relatively new. All the hoses came right off with no issues which makes me think it was messed with not too long ago.
Side note: Unfortunately, I got the car from a guy that passed away and his daughter had no idea where his records are. Dad in Buffalo, NY , her in MA. Husband was pissed, thought he hit the jackpot with a red 02 996 4S , wife said no way.
I'm in Scituate MA. My car is an 02 so is it Mk1 tank or 2?
I apologize for my ignorance on the part names. I haven't got a Bentley book yet so I am going off videos. My hearing isn't all that good either so I might miss when people say the names of things or they just say remove the lines without specifically pointing at things.
The first thing I would check before changing the tank is the part number on the coolant tank cap. If it doesn't end in "04" I would change the cap with the latest version and see if it still leaks. Even if you have to replace the tank, you'll want the latest version of the cap. The earlier ones were known to leak.
Also, you're lucky because the MK-II tanks cost a fraction of what the MK-I tanks cost. If you need to replace the tank, get a genuine Porsche one. There will be cheaper options but this is not where you want to save a few bucks.
Got it on the tank (Porsche only). Guessing not the cap because it is leaking with the car parked and cold. Wouldn't I be able to see coolant around the cap too?
I am a shadetree that just enjoys wrenching, and I was able to do this myself - 3 times actually
Mainly followed Pelican to lower engine. Not difficult.
I did not disconnect the fuel lines, just kinda gently pushed everything away after disconnecting the filter from the tank (99 C4).
Only go Porsche for this part.
Sorry for the double post, I folded a small piece of paper towel several times and just inserted it around the botton of the cap and the tank. That little plastic lip on the tank holds it place.
Drive around, check the paper. If it is wet it is likely the cap. One of my several issues was the aftermarket tank threads just wouldnt seal tight and this is how I narrowed it down. When I replaced again with the porsche tank, no issues.
My bad. I watched at lunch. The video guy definitely says he removed gas lines because he didn�t lower motor. I�ll definitely just lower.
The leak seems high in the tank. I take down to min line and the leak stops.
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