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YOUR RESEARCHRear Clunking on Braking - help
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Check inner wheels and took it
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Leading evidence: 'Check inner wheels and took it' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check inner wheels and took it' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
checked for loose bolts, brakes, brake holders, calipers, rotors....
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I also checked more bolts for being tight and use a large channel lpck pliers on the joints to look for movement.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I pulled the other rear wheel tonight (my garage is tight so I can only work on one side at a time, then rotate the car) before putting on the drivers side I removed and cleaned the abs sensor.
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You always drive the car so I can't figure it as water in the system unless old fluid that was already opened was used a while back.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I pulled the other rear wheel tonight (my garage is tight so I can only work on one side at a time, then rotate the car) before putting on the drivers side I removed and cleaned the abs sensor.
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So I have been hearing an occational clunk on braking... more of a clunk clunk clunk clunk than just a single clunk
I was thinking brakes / rotors as there is a bit of a pulsation as well (which is felt with the clunks)
Its not always there, but sometimes its pretty important sounding!! - I am looking for something loose - worn - ??
Since I swapped my own suspension I thought I would check all that too.... Nothing seems to give (with muscle power)
checked for loose bolts, brakes, brake holders, calipers, rotors.... and then the axle shafts... OH .... so there is a movement vertically when I pull up and down on the wheel end (harder to reach the trans end) Seems like quite a bit of movement... (not in and out... up and down)
So anyone know if this is "normal" or have I found my smoking gun and/or do I need to fix these and keep digging?
They dont look too tough to replace, but will I need another alingment if I do swap replace them.
Its a good feeling, the pocket book already ran away and has not been seen since I told it to open WIDE!!
Ed
ABS speed sensors? Air gap might be too much on one giving a different speed leading to goofs. I'm wndering if one side is braking with bad speed inputs leading to slack on and off to trans and rear end to make the noise. Drive the car letting it play the game on you then try feeling for more heat on one sides brakes. Hand on wheel hub normally finds that temp diffference. Good way to find out storing a car during winter is the wrong answer since it let water get into people brake lines and makes the water expand which applys brakes with out touching the brakes but that isn't your car. Your a good 911 driver
The dreaded too long of a bolt that bottomed out making you think it's tight and right. ewwww
Differential worn? Give it a month or run it harder and you'll know that one if it is. Not sure if they run spacer shims in there.
Run the car with engine engaged and not engaged and see if there is a difference. Trouble shoot to try to seperate if it is drive train or braking ralated. I'm kind of thinking if it doesn't disappear all together but is weaker with the car out of gear all the way then maybe it is the gears. If its all the same out of gear then suspension or brakes throwing problems at you. But what do I know, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn lately.
Boy - that's a mouth full.
I pulled the other rear wheel tonight (my garage is tight so I can only work on one side at a time, then rotate the car) before putting on the drivers side I removed and cleaned the abs sensor. I also checked more bolts for being tight and use a large channel lpck pliers on the joints to look for movement. Nothing - I also removed the spacers and put back the stock oem wheel lugs. Checked the inner wheels and took it for a spin.
For sure not tranny, not engine, and in the rear.
Thoughts - rotors?
I have had bad rotors on cars before - always on the front... Maybe I just don't recognise rear rotor warp? Has anyone had that before.
The other thing I am going to do is flush the brakes this weekend. I half think maybe some air could be causing one or more caliper piston to be acting funny.
I have about 75% brakes left.
Keep ya posted
I've had contaminents in fluid cause the brakes to drag which leads to the throbbing after it heats up the rotors and pads. It isn't detectable as fluid expansion till you are going slow and the car stops by its self but the throbbing will be present primarily when applying the brakes. Although I've had it worse where the brake would slowly but surely lock up on the hwy. Before the brakes locking up it feels like shaking of out of alignment. For even the light amount of throbbing the hubs will be warmer than usual because the wheel and hub are heat sinks for the heat from rotors but I didn't get clunking noises in my case. It wasn't the porsche and different brake pads. I know performance pads will do strange noises but clunking? You always drive the car so I can't figure it as water in the system unless old fluid that was already opened was used a while back.
Wondering about your suspension.
Is it possible you're getting a little rubbing on something under braking?
You've had your suspension for a while?
Well Ed, you know your own car best, good luck, I'm sure it's rather disconcerting if you drive it with gusto...
Thank -
no rubbing, suspension is solid...driven with Gusto on regular basis !
main thing in checking is I dont think it is unsafe to drive at this point...and since it is 60 and sunny in Seattle????? I am driving it today and will flush the brakes Friday night
after sleeping on it, I think it could be lateral runnout in the rear rotors. Once I eliminated the other potential issues and settled down on that the feeling and sounds do sort of fit - that said the one CV joint has more play than the other 3 and I will keep an eye on that - already found a shop that will rebuild them, one day turn around $70/joint (beats $750 / side at the stealer)
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