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YOUR RESEARCHBillh1963?s roller
Leading reported evidence
Check clutch, dmf and pp, all looks good
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Leading evidence: 'Check clutch, dmf and pp, all looks good' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check alignment and make sure nothing gets pinched' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Disconnect sensor, improved the wire routing a bit
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I simply disconnected the sensor, improved the wire routing a bit, reconnected it, and instantly the engine ran better!
Install oil filler tube, coolant reservoir, and motor mounts
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Today I installed the new oil filler tube, coolant reservoir, and motor mounts.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
123 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
My fravorite plane because of the mystery of how it worked.
Note: I�m starting this thread with Bill�s permission, although I�m solely responsible for the content.
Bill and I have been corresponding for several weeks about me replacing the engine in his roller. After a couple of false starts, today Bill, a Toyota Tundra, a nice flatbed trailer, a white 996 roller, and 2 engines arrived in my driveway. After some maneuvering and Hug o� war with the 2nd engine, we got everything in the garage and the car on the lift.
Before Bill left, we discused Bill�s future plan for the bad engine currently in the car. He wants to save it for a future rebuild, but is uncertain exactly what may be it�s condition. Anyway, after he left, I decided to make sure the oil had been drained (it had) and check the filter and sump plate for shiny bits. I wasn�t disappointed! First surprise was that there was no filter in the canister! Bill, I hope you removed it...Anyway, there was lots of glittery gold bearing material and aluminum chips!
Not a good sign, but the bigger shock was in the sump. Lots of large steel flakes in addition to more aluminum bits and glittery gold.
The intake screen also had a couple of large steel flakes.
I picked out some of the largest ones here.
I�m curious about the round washer-like one, it�s not magnetic, but it is a metal. No idea where it came from.
Anyway, after that I buttoned the sump back up and decided that�s as far as my investigation will go. Tomorrow I�ll start the engine removal process.
Bill provided another 3.4 engine he bought used from another rennlist member. I’ll be putting that one in, it’s shown in the foreground of the first pic.
No....I did not remove the filter. Probably done by the PO's mechanic when he was investigating the issue. I bought the car with the bad engine so who knows what evil lurks inside that case
Great project for those that feel confident doing it.....I wish I was closer, and would volunteer to come by, help and learn.........I am East of Raleigh...about 4 hours away from Asheville....
.....subscribed
We have separation! The combination of a high chassis lift and low lift cart makes this an easy one man job. Except for a couple of stubborn rusted fasteners, there were no surprises. When it comes time to remove the very rusted exhaust bolts I likely won�t have such an easy time. May take a couple of days soaking in PB Blaster. While waiting for the chemical magic, I can work on installing the large box of parts on the replacement engine that Bill brought.
A few obligatory pics:
My dad would take us in trips on one of them. My fravorite plane because of the mystery of how it worked.
Anyways good progress on the motor. Cant wait to see inside.
Actually I should totally change it since I no longer have a Mini Cooper or Ducati.
Now something more current would be Mercsche or Porbenz, but then my status as �internet influencer� would take a giant step down. I�m trying to catch up to the Kardashians and Miley Cyrus. Somehow, nobody is eager to see my sex tape....it�s a fickle business.
It looks like he built more than one. A 356 coupe in the 50s and the single seater later. There was an article in excellence many years back.
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2011/0...ngine-porsche/
https://www.excellence-mag.com/issue...gined-porsches
@ Carl - not much, it�s a short subject in every sense of the word
On a more serious note, today I separated the trans from the engine. Straight forward with the lift table and cherry picker, and no surprises.
The rest of my time was spent getting the exhaust off the old engine. Seriously rusted bolts and nuts at the exhaust flange required copious quantities of PB Blaster and a delicate touch on the ratchet. The fun didn�t end there. The long bolts at the muffler support on one side refused to come out. The bolts go through a sleeve in the support and it seems they are firmly rusted in place. No amount of Blaster has worked so far. Someone before me tried also, and none of the nuts were in place. One of the bolts were sheared off in the threads and Is too short to install a nut, and therefore not functional and needs to be replaced. Anyway, not sure what to do about that at this time. Maybe more soaking for a few days will do the trick. These are the guys I�m talking about
:
Another issue I discovered is the muffler cases are separating. Left side muffler much more severe than the right. I�m not a muffler expert so not sure if this is significant or just a cosmetic issue. Any experts feel free to comment.
I think I have the set of my original mufflers with all the hardware (had only about 47K miles on them)...took them off 7 years ago when I went with the Gundo hack on another set.....last time I saw them (about a year ago) they were still sitting in my daughters shed....I can go by her house this weekend to make sure they are there....
Started work on the new (used) engine. Checked the clutch, DMF and PP, all looks good. Disk has about 80% life remaining, so I’m recommending use as is.
Also installed new plugs, coil packs and starter. Old plugs looked very good, a nice dry tan color, no signs of preignition, or oily residue. I have a good feeling the engine was running well when removed.
New coil packs are taller than the old ones, so I drilled out some nuts to use as spacers to put under the heat shield along with longer bolts to get clearance. This is normal for the latest coil version.
That disk looks good. Also, you should replace the release bearing too. The '97 Audi A4 1.8T release bearing is the same as the 996 at fraction of the cost. I bought mine for $40.
Yup, I forgot to mention yesterday, pilot bearing is good, looks to have been replaced with the disk, however the release bearing is deeply worn concave. I’m putting it on the replacement parts list.
Today I installed the new oil filler tube, coolant reservoir, and motor mounts.
@billh1963
wise choice going with new mounts. Check out the old / new comparison.
Also took the opportunity to clean up some of the engine bay in the mount and cross member areas.
before:
After:
But don�t get too excited, I�m not detailing the whole car!
Also, no the engine is not installed yet. I just store it under the car when I�m done for the day so at least I can get one of my own cars in the garage!
Are you sure about that? I know the Audi release bearing is the same as for a Boxster, but too small for a 996, Is the 97 1.8T the large bearing and different from the other Audi's???
What manufacturer for your lift, and how high does it go to drop powertrain? Any special install procedures? Looks like you poured a new concrete pad under it.
Thanks in advance.
What a wonderful thread! Lot it when people share their time and talents. I know I'm late to the show here, but are you planning to rebuild the engine that is coming out of Bill's car? I see you have another engine in the background and I assume it's the replacement. Is the replacement a new engine or used?
The replacement engine is a used engine that came from a forum member.
I am keeping the original engine. The plan is to rebuild (if it's not too damaged). I took Raby's class in 2017 just for that purpose. Now, will I find time to do it is a different question!
@996.2 - the lift is Chinese, brand is Yancheng Dayang, but like most things Chinese, many companies make basically the same lift under different brands. I imported it myself through some connections I had at work, and also did the installation. It�s rated at 3000 kg capacity (6600 lbs) more than twice what the Porsche weighs, and will lift to 6 feet. I had to build 2 pits in the floor and pour a 6� base of concrete and 4� walls. Finished pits are about 63�x22�x13� deep.
i also dug a trench to bury the hydraulic lines over the the controller.
And for the record, yes the neighbors think I�m nuts. While I was cutting up the concrete and digging the pits occasionally some would come around to see what I was doing, mainly shaking their heads in disbelief. However, when it was done they were amazed and a bit envious. I�ve even helped a few of them with some car trouble, and in the process gained some respect. I live in a subdivision with a strong HOA and never had an issue.
Anyway, back to the lift, here�s a pic at full height.
Engine removal is a no brainer with this. I use the lift cart under the engine to support it while all mounts are U.N. bolted. The cart has a max height of 34� so when ready, I essentially raise the car off the engine and lower the cart to complete the separation. Then just roll the cart out of the way and put the car back on or near the ground.
Also makes oil changes a stand-up job.
Hey Charlie - how about a little detail on the table cart? You probably have posted already, but I didn't see it in this thread. Is that from Harbor Freight? I bought a big tool box partially for using it as a platform to catch engines when I drop them. A hydraulic cart like that would be a lot more convenient.
Today I installed the new release bearing
Then mated the trans with the engine. The combination of the cherry picker and lift cart makes this job much easier. When I did my own car I put The engine on a plywood box and balanced the trans on a floor jack. I think it took me 2 hours to make the connection, and as they say in the South �I used up all my religion� in the process.
This one was a 20 minute job
With the help of a couple of clamps to go the last inch. That last inch is critical!
Easiest hook-up ever, and I didn�t even need to buy it dinner and didn�t need any lube!
Tomorrow I�m taking the mufflers to a weld shop to see if they can weld up those seams.
Everyone was watching to see who disappeared right before you poured concrete into pits.
Fantastic project congrats. Your "scissor lift" is available in a model that rests on ground without cutting pits into concrete, and with it's narrower footprint compared to two-post lift, no blockage opening vehicle doors, probably better stability, I wonder what drawbacks compared to two-post?
I understand if you didn't want to replace the clutch and flywheel because of little wear, but before you reinstalled the transmission, did you change out the intermediate shaft bearing and rear main seal? Are you planning to replace the AOS?
That release arm, bearing and retaining clip look identical to what I just put in
Sparky
(A4). Maybe Imo is on to something.
Love the wood clamps. Use what you have. And with regard to lube, I will redirect your attention to the previous page where I reveal some of the lineage to my special assistant...
Welding those seams are the best bet for getting more life out of that system. A good welder can stop a bad thing from getting worse. Also wish you were still living up here. I could give you quite a few projects. Carry on. And thanks for sharing your's and and Bill's adventure.
Minor setback yesterday. Brought the mufflers to my go-to guy who has done excellent work for me in the past. He attempted to weld repair the muffler, but even with a very low setting on his tig welder, there was not enough good parent material to get a good weld. Fortunately he only tried it on a very small test section, so didn’t make anything worse.
Then I took them to a local muffler shop, they wouldn’t even attempt a repair.
It is unknown if there is an actual exhaust leak at this time, since the engine couldn’t be started before the project began.
So, a few options:
1. Replace with new (expensive) or used (quality ??) mufflers.
2. Use as is for now. Consider it a “future project” when they inevitably get worse. The good news is mufflers can be replaced without dropping the engine.
3. Some internet gurus have had success filling with a high heat epoxy. JB Weld has such a product. I would call this a temporary solution.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to...d-extremeheat/
if it was my car, I’d go with option 2.
@billh1963
what is your opinion?
Consider No. 3. A few years ago, I had a corrosion split on one muffler at the bottom seam. I used a two-part putty stick from Lowes to repair it after going at it with a wire brush. The stuff is rated at 300F continuous use. I was under that part of the car the other day and found that it was still holding as first applied.
I'm not convinced of this. Without knowing how bad it is internally, there may actually be life left. I'd explore options while using the current system.
It's pretty easy to offer advice when it's not your money, or time, on the line.
Thought I'd share with you what you probably missed from post #43 after it was edited:
Soft hands run in the family...
We're going to use "as is". Once we start it up and see how it does I may have to make a change. Until then it's full steam ahead! (well, until Suncoast delivers the parts we need)
Byprodriver that's not the case with the 3.4 since it's the smallest capacity 996 engine it has thicker walls than any other 996 , the S has the thinnest with the 3.8 same cast thinner cylinder , for the OP Hartech in the UK can RE Round cylinders and fit a strengthening ring on top to prevent this and D Chunking happening again, could be an option other than a re sleeve , but they may be ok ??
Well, the 2nd order arrived today, still haven�t seen the 1st one yet. Of course, that�s the one preventing me from installing the engine.
Anyway, the parts that did come allowed me to install the LH inner fender, which was strangely missing, along with those 2 small air scoop/deflector things. I took the time to remove the front bumper and clean out the radiator ducts and fins.
Pleasant surprise, the ducts and rads were very clean. It was obvious someone had cleaned them shortly before the car came a roller. This was the worst one:
i vacuumed it up and put things back together.
unfortunately now on hold until those last parts arrive.
Yes...I'm wondering if a bad fan or resistor is why they pulled the wheel liner before I bought the car. I guess we'll know soon!
The missing parts are:
Part Number Part Name
900-378-183-01 Hex-Head Screw 8X145
900-378-105-01 Hex-Head Screw 8X70
900-380-005-01 Hexagon Nut
warehouse33 didn't show the part number. Pelican didn't show them in stock. I ordered from Suncoast. Their site did not indicate they weren't in stock. Of course, the order still shows pending so I guess they had to order them.If anyone knows who might have these parts actually in stock, please let me know!
@billh1963
BTW, the order today also came with a LH set of air scoop and deflector. I already installed a set of LH and RH parts, so now you have spares.
Whats special about the bolts and nuts that u cant get them from a place like fastenal or similar? U should be able to measure thread pitch and hardness should be stamped on the head.
Nothing special other than the lengths. I just can’t find them locally. Fastenal online doesn’t show any M8 bolts 140mm long. The shorter ones are more easily available.
all grade 8.8
(2) M8x1.25-140 long
(2) M8x1.25-70 long
(4) M8x1.25 locknut
I'll probably get more "consumables" like that as well.
It won't be long and that stuff with either go NLA or prices will increase substantially (like the M030 suspension).
We need to get it now while we can!
After some downtime, the bolts finally arrived along with a new AOS. Two replacement mufflers will arrive tomorrow, so I’ll be able to get working again. Today I installed the AOS and removed the mufflers, removal was easier than expected, rusty bolts were no match for PB Blaster, and the clamps are in good shape.
Looking forward to tomorrow!
Mufflers arrived and went on without issue. Actually I was expecting more of a wrestling match. Onward to engine installation this afternoon. With everything in position, engine on the lift cart and car on the main lift, it�s relatively simple to mate the two up. Sort of like making a big heavy sandwich. Car comes down, engine raises up, with several pauses to check alignment and make sure nothing gets pinched. Biggest hassle is installing the clutch cylinder, trans has to be close, but it�s easier if it�s a few inches lower than final position. That taken care of, and remembering to put the throttle cable in position, time to bolt everything up. Torque up 8 nuts, and it came together nicely.
Looking at that pic reminds me that I need to straighten out that heat shield. It has what we call the �Detroit Lean�, sometimes refered to as the �Livernois Lean� by the true metro Detroit cognoscenti. Anyway, looks much neater in the profile view.
Bill reminded me that the mufflers and tips came off a 996.2 and therefore the tips have a different shape than the 996.1. Not sure it the bumper will fit. Can anybody out there answer this question? If not, I guess I�ll find out soon enough. I could always swap out the tips with the old mufflers, but I�m lazy.
In anticipation of the first start-up, fellow rennlister Carlvs and another friend I’ll call C.H. came over. We drained the gas tank and added 5 gallons of fresh 93 octane, wrestled with the power steering connections and a couple of other last minute items, 11 quarts of DT40 ( the engine has a deep sump), and ready to turn the key. Unfortunately the battery was not up to the task in spite of it being on the battery tender for a couple of weeks. Luckily my boat battery was in winter storage mode in the garage, and quick improvisation by Carl“MacGyver”VS resulted in a strong cranking 996.
After a several cranks to build up oil pressure, the moment of truth...
We got it running, but it was apparent that all was not well. It was clear that cylinders 4,5,6 were not firing. We suspected a ground connection that is common to that bank of cylinders. Cleaned and tightened that ground point, tried again and #5 also came to life. Still 2 down will not cut it. I decided to check the ground connections again and verified all coils have a good connection to chassis ground, so not convinced #5 firing was actually related to the cleaned up ground. Maybe a fuel injector cleared itself.
At that point decided I had enough for the day.
After dinner I picked up a proper new battery for tomorrow’s investigation with the durametric. Hopefully it will provide some clues.
Some quick diagnostic tips that might same you some time.
IS the cranking speed steady? ( cranking speed with ignition or fuel disabled so it won't start) Unstable speeds or a fast spot in the rotation speed indicates low compression on one or more cylinders.ie "ear compression test".
You can also use an inductive amp meter to test dynamic compression. Inductive amp meter clamped around the battery cable. At cranking speed you should have a steady @150amp draw from the starter, any variation more than 10% in the amp draw means a variation in compression. Very quick way to test compression.
If it passes the "ear compression test" or the amp meter compression test, the go on to verifying proper fuel and ignition on effected cylinders.
If the "ear compression test" or the amp meter compression test shows low compression, then a gauge type test will be done to determine which cylinder(s) have the low compression. Then a leak down test to determine where the lose of compression is going ie intake valve, exhaust valve, piston sealing.
It's possible that since the engine has probably been sitting, the valve guides/stems have dried out and sticking causing the lifters to pump up and hold the valves slightly open. I have seen this numerous times on engines that have been sitting.
I always do a compression test and leak down test with a used engine BEFORE it gets installed in the car while it is sitting on the garage floor. No matter what the seller says, it is my responsibility as a mechanic to check it out. Besides, it is really cheap insurance. There has been more than once when a used engine has to be sent back because it ran on -1 cylinder.
I hooked up the new battery, this thing now cranks like a ****!
I started the engine and instantly got the CEL, decided to nurse it through warm-up and get it up to operating temp. That done, I connected the durametric and had 3 fault codes, all pointing to bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor.
I simply disconnected the sensor, improved the wire routing a bit, reconnected it, and instantly the engine ran better! Cleared the codes again, restarted it and Engine now idles smoothly, revs freely and no CEL!
You Tube
You Tube
I'm not ready to declare victory, but cautiously optimistic. I�ll let the engine cool completely overnight and check cold start performance.
Sounds great now ! Yep, the valves were sticking/lifters pumped up, basically the engine was experiencing "valve float". When that happens unburnt air/fuel is pushed past the exhaust valve right at the 02 sensor and renders the 02 sensor ineffective. The warm up and let sit corrected the "valve float issue"..Seen it many many times on used engines that have sat for 6 months or more.
The 02 sensors are only effective at reading the lack of oxygen, the only way to have a lack of oxygen is for the exhaust system to be fully sealed, no leaks, no outside air introduced AND complete combustion...
I am very excited and appreciative of all the work Coopduc has accomplished! To see a car and engine that have sat for over two years come to life is a momentous occasion!
@hondamnit
there are a few rennilsters in the Area. Carlvs also lives in Hendersonville.
Thanks, My garage is really nothing special, just a standard 2 car with a lift, and a tool collection I’ve acquired over the last 50 years.
I�ve lived here awhile and know afew Porsche people in Hendersonville but not many in Asheville. Ever have any events ? Does In Den Bergen still happen ?
@hondamnit
i don’t know if you’re a PCA member or not, but anyway, Appalachian Region PCA next social event is 12/4 at 5:00-7:00 pmis at Burial Beer Co. Anyone is welcome and is a great time to meet some locals. For sure I will be there.
https://burialbeer.com/location/forestry-camp/
not as of yet. Grew up with them, worked on them for awhile, kinda fell out still work on them but not exclusively. Now on the fence about buying 996 that they are below $20k
Cold start this morning went perfectly, smooth high idle and revs freely.
You Tube
6 other starts at random varying engine temps also good, same as videos posted yesterday. I think Porscetech3 called it correctly!
Also did the first of 2 coolant flushes using Shout laundry stain remover and Ahsai�s coolant drain/refill procedure.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...pump-tips.html
works well, but I have no idea how he captures all coolant in buckets. I�m running about 75% bucket, 25% garage floor.
2nd flush tomorrow, then final coolant fill.
Hondamnit, In den Bergen is now called Appalachian Adventure and occurs one a year, location vary. Check out our website for events and news.
http://aprpca.org/356B/
yes do come out and join us for a beer this Wednesday.
Just a quick update.....
Car is back home in South Carolina! Putting new tires on today (wheels in pics are rollers to sit the car on until I get the wheel back). Have only driven a few miles so far. Tires are really bad and I didn't feel comfortable going too far.
Engine runs good and I'm looking forward to taking it out on a long run this evening. The only issue right now is a coolant leak manifesting itself on the bottom of the exhaust around the water pump area. Charlie replaced several hoses and the coolant tank so one of the clamps probably didn't seal properly. I couldn't find it with my super strong LED flashlight so will probably have to pull the air cleaner to see what is going on.
After coolant leak repair next step is a good detailing including polishing the headlights and a little driver seat leather repair.
All the credit goes to Charlie for getting this car back on the road! Thank you! Without his effort it would still be gathering dust in my warehouse.
Thanks Bill, it was a pleasure working with you! It�s a shame you dont have enough space in your warehouse for these types of projects. My garage is much more �efficient�!
