Water pump removal issues

1st is there a special size socket or tool to get at the hard to get to bolt? I have it loosened but I the socket is either to long to get out without hitting the brace or I can reach? 2nd the bolt above the pita bolt above is stuck. I can�t get it to budge and am afraid I will shear off the head. Suggestions? 3rd I tried putting 10psi of air with the water pump and thermo hoses unattached. I was expecting a gush. Nothing. The car is slanted nose down so I would expect fluid. Suggestions? Do I need to keep pressure on for a while? Thanks.

1.- Same bolt head as the others...if you get your hand in there, you can turn it with your hand (or with the socket in the head of the bolt)...the bigger pain in the a$$ is to tighten (at least for me). 2.- Can't help you with that one....it is supposed to be quite loose at 7ft/lb....give it a good push and it should loosen... 3.- The only hose that needs to be off is the thermostat hose....put in the 10 psi on the filling tank...it will gush out of the thermostat hose....I did it with the nose up, and still plenty came out (about another gallon)

So it sounds like I should put the wp hose back on and try again with the air. i guess I�ll look for a 10mm socket with a length somewhere between the sizes I have. Its all about the right tool. Just not sure what it is. thanks for responding and happy Thanksgiving.

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At most of our income to tool cost ratios, we can purchase extra sockets and wrenches and cut/grind them to whatever size we need. Heck we probably already have the extra sacrificial tools laying in a box somewhere.

What a mechanic due with a frozen bolt? There has to be trick?

Box end ratchet?

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Spray it with PB Blaster and let it set overnight. If you can get heat to it with a torch, that can help too. There is also an attachment for an air hammer that accepts a socket. (Mine came from Snap-on truck, but others make them) In your case, PB Blaster is likely the best you can do without dropping the engine. Maybe be some of the northern technicians can chime in. They deal with rusty fasteners daily.

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Use a sacrificial bolt of same size/length/quality rating, clamp the threads in a vice leaving the head and some threads same as bolted through water pump, then use a torque wrench to see how much torque it takes to twist it into. Then use 90% of the maximum value to loosen the bolt. If it doesn't come loose at 90% of failure, you got problems. Where the threads are in the case you can't get penetrating oil to it or heat, so only thing left is vibration. You may have to remove everything thats in the way to get an air hammer in there with a flat tip to vibrate the bolt. You could try an engraver, but may not be enough vibration. GL

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In addition to what's mentioned above, heat works well. If there is any thread locking compound on the fastener, heat will liquify it.

Thanks Guys. i think the best bet is to just button up and let s shop do it. If I break that bolt I am screwed. I guess the good thing is I will have flushed the system so not a total loss. David

If you break it, you just drill and tap then use a thread-sert. Paying someone else will cost!

If the shop breaks it you still have to pay for the time it takes to remove and fix it. Why are you trying to put air pressure in the cooling system?

I was trying to push the coolant from radiators. i forgot I disconnected the hoses on the tank regarding the t fitting issue. No wonder pressure wasn�t making it to the thermo. I�ll look for a 10mm wrench tomorrow that has a deep socket. I can put a small wrench on it but not a socket. Regarding the shop, I would hope they would have trucks for frozen bolts that I don�t. The other bolts were very clean. Original wp so not sure if Porsche puts any type lick sealer on them.

If I get a small torch, do I heat the bolt head or around it? I think around to expend the aluminum but better to ask.

Heat the bolt. U will never get enough heat into the surrounding material. U want to break the bond that the corrosion or thread locker has formed wnd heatting the bolt will do that.

Try using an impact driver if you can to loosen the bolt.

With the engine carrier off you should be able to get at it with an impact driver.

With the engine carrier off I would try an impact driver with a good adaptor and your socket. It will work For the ones who are not familiar with this tool, you hit it with an hammer and it does a twisting motion that break loose the bolt.

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Yup, every tool box should have one!

Act of God today. Bought new 10mm wrench that curves out at end. Came off like it was already loosened. Thanks everyone.

Should I used anti seize when I put back in and if so, on threads and back of head?

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A little Loctite on the threads will do. Don't over-torque and use a criss-cross pattern.

Won�t loctite make it tough for the next removal?

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Not if you use the right amount and torque it properly.

Last question, how do I support motor with jack? Just a big block of wood going across the pan (side to side) centered on jack. And can I get out more coolant by removing plug in middle next to round flat spot?

Engine carrier to motor 22 or 34 ft lbs? Bentley I believe says 34 ftlbs.

I hope no coolant comes out of that plug next to the flat spot thats the oil drain plug 😀 yes, you can support the motor with a piece of 2x across the sump with a floor jack, just don�t put too much pressure on it, you aren�t trying to lift the car

You know, sometimes you got to say good enough and stop. What is the point of trying get ALL of the coolant out? Is it going to make the car run that much faster, better, or lighter?

Remember that you're only lifting the engine to unweight it so you can back off the bracket

From the pictures, did I back the two engine bracket bolts enough? How about my engine support, okay? i tried jacking and it seemed the motor just lifted the car, not the motor so I stopped. Suggestions? Thanks

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Bingo!

Sorry, here are pictures. Again motor isn�t lifting, car is. Support okay? Trying to show how much I loosened support bolts. The car is a 4s, bracket is the same I think.

The idea is to support the motor so the weight is not on the bracket. Now you should be able to pry the bracket reward (1/8-1/4") enough to get the pump out.

I tried pulley with fingers after jacking a bit. Wouldn�t budge. Thanks for responding so quickly.

A little late to this thread but I wouldn�t put Loctite on a bolt that small. I worked there for 25 years and used to formulate those products. Better to use Loctite 565 or 567. Those are pipe sealants designed for contact with water based systems and do not generate the strength of a typical threadlocker. If you insist on using one, at least use one of the blue (medium strength) varieties. Good luck!

Without removing both nuts is it possible to create more play by loosening the engine mounts?

All installed. Thanks everyone for all the help. I couldn�t have done it alone. David

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Are your tail pipes even? After I did WP replacement my driver side tail pipe hung lower. I've yet to correct it. I believe it has to do with tightening things back up. I left the jack supporting the motor slightly when i tightened things back up, should have let it hang free and then tightened things up. Hope yours are even.

Seems okay. It went pretty well. I spent a lot of unnecessary time loosening a bolt that didn�t need to be removed. It was harder to get at than the others. Luckily I never took out and just retightened. The black plastic hose that runs along the bottom of the car seemed to cause me a lot of issues. Moving it around to get the pump in and out was a pain. Mold water pump was in great shape at 70k.

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This is good to know, Loctite makes a boatload of products that are used more and more these days ( and all good I may add). Having a " Loctite Pro" in the house will be a great asset !!

Stahlwille used to have a nice like of short sockets in every size for problem 1, but now they only do it in select sizes for specific applications. If you tell me the size I can check.