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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBuy at 175K, WCGW - Part 2
Leading reported evidence
Install kit", as opposed
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It was MUCH more costly to install as a "Dealer Installed Kit", as opposed to a "factory option" due to as a Factory option the engine was assembled first time as a X51,( no left over parts or extra labor)...
Leading evidence: 'Install kit", as opposed' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check into why you would even consider' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And in the case of the X51 power kit, we were instructed to to stamp an "s" after the serial number to signify that a dealer installed power kit was added.
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all were replaced and the removed parts returned to the customer.
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Suggestion
Given the miles and corrosion, I would be checking into why you would even consider that car.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Anything special I should be checking with that many miles?
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
It was MUCH more costly to install as a "Dealer Installed Kit", as opposed to a "factory option" due to as a Factory option the engine was assembled first time as a X51,( no left over parts or extra labor)...
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And in the case of the X51 power kit, we were instructed to to stamp an "s" after the serial number to signify that a dealer installed power kit was added.
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35 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T175704Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Since I'm new here, the original thread may pop up eventually, or I'm stuck in mod approval limbo. Anyway
Looked at an interesting 2000/C4 yesterday.
Downsides - 175k miles, rust, a clunk from the front end, and the gauges have some sort of fog on the plastic.
Worst corner of the 4
Neutral - Exterior is ok (apart from the rust). Split seam on the driver's seat and some expected cosmetics inside.
Plus - Single owner with 'most of the docs'. Recent tires, brakes, cats. Owner has kept after the mechanicals.
Bonus - 6k miles on the rebuilt FSI engine and clutch (haven't got the full details yet). Pulls like a freight train.
I can manage the interior stuff, and will get a proper PPI, but from those of you (that'd be all) with greater wisdom and experience, how ugly is that sort of body work likely to get? Anything special I should be checking with that many miles?
Thanks!
Hard pass on that rusty body, if that was a typical 996. That being said, if the price is right, buy the car for the FSI power train, and swap it into a decent body down the road.
He's asking $27.5.
Running the bod until it is no more would be an interesting possibility. A swap is beyond my abilities, but there's folks around that can do that sorta thing
.
At 175k miles the suspension will need to be replaced if not already done. Rust will need to be addressed. Brakes? Interior? Factor that all in if you make an offer.
Thanks Bash. Suspension felt like it was gone (clunking and banging on the bumps). Brakes are recent, tires were good. Interior was showing it's age, but wasn't too bad.
It's the rust that troubles me.
The torque keeps pulling me back in though
Great engine, but that body work is going to cost you a fortune unless you can do it yourself (I did the two corners just forward of the rear wheels on mine - the part you could see wasn't nearly as bad as the one in the photo. If you think that's bad, just wait 'til you get that plastic and the wheel liner off - I'd bet you can put your finger through it...). $27.5 is way out there...
Here's the thread of the body work I did - it probably took me a month of steady 2 or 3 nights a week...
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...w-project.html
Wow, that is all round impressive dporto. Just the sort of info I was hoping to find here.
To do it myself I'm only missing the steps where I a) Learn to weld. b) Learn to paint. c) Learn to weld and paint as well as you. d) Do it.
By then the car would likely be dust. Possibly me too. So that's right out.
Thank you!
I'd says just that wheel well rust is over 6K in repair,, nothing like rust in the rockers to spread where you cant see it..
Just pretend your buying the engine,, a roller in my area is approx 6000 +/-
I had a similar rust patch in a 69 911T,, once they got in teh estimate went to > 15000, with teh caveat that another 5 to 8 K on top would be likely..
it was also in the suspension pickup points and along the rockers.. was going to require a 100% tear down to truly get rid of it.
This was 20 years ago..
There is a very strong attraction with the FSE rebuilt engine... but you would be buying an engine with maybe a warranty if that passes on to the new owner. As for the rust, it's like an iceberg; you see the 10% above the surface. With 175K miles, that body as a roller would not fetch $5K, maybe half that and only to the hardiest of buyers.
I agree with the others that suggest moving to a different car. At above $20K, you will find some very clean samples, with IMS done. For your first Porsche, why buy a hard-up case?
i agree. I would check with Jake and confirm history against engine serial number (not VIN....someone could have sold engine out of car and swapped in a used engine).
Do FSI engines have special markings or numbers on them? ( to identify them at a much later date, ie in a recycle yard) I know when I build an engine, I stamp my initials in the block to identify it at a later date.. And in the case of the X51 power kit, we were instructed to to stamp an "s" after the serial number to signify that a dealer installed power kit was added.
If you can get the receipts for the work and verify that it is an
actual
FSI build and not a "using the same stuff as FSI" build, and then you can buy the car for $20,000 or less, hell yes.
Thank you all for the feedback.
I decided to pass on it, who knows what lurks behind those liners.
Only problem is now my wife says I can't get a Porsche until I can weld and paint like dporto.
Wasn't there a C4S on BaT recently with an FSI build that was relatively cheap considering the condition and engine build? They might have been a member here. I think for the right price the engine could be worth it but with 175k miles on the rest of it and rust its going to need a lot of work. IMO I would want to get it less than what an FSI engine would cost, if not I would just get on the waiting list if I wanted one built.
That signifies that the X51 Power kit was installed as "Factory Option", the "s" stamped at the end signifies "Dealer Installed" X51 Kit.
The Dealer Installed X51 kit was massively expensive, and also had a large amount of slightly used parts left, heads, cams, intake, headers, oil pans/baffles, ect. all were replaced and the removed parts returned to the customer.
Your knowledge is very much appreciated. I have no documentation other than my stamped S on engine # and all visible signs of package, including baffled sump and this undertray that I read about as a modification as well. Carfax shows engine out at Brumos. Also I have spoke with salesman who sold car who now is an executive at Porsche Experience in Atlanta. Worthless, I know.😎
Without an engine, that body would be a sub $5K roller. I don't see how that math works if the body sucks as bad as it appears to and the suspension is shot. Good call, OP.
I remember it being massively expensive as a factory option, iirc $13,800 or higher ? and wondering just how many people would
spend that for an extra 25 hp
any recollection of the cost of the kit and labor in early 2000's ?
I do remember an associated cost of $25k, but can't remember if that is just the cost of the KIt, or the cost of the kit with installation costs. There was a TSB giving the Porsche labor time/costs and the Kit number and associated installation instructions..
It was MUCH more costly to install as a "Dealer Installed Kit", as opposed to a "factory option" due to as a Factory option the engine was assembled first time as a X51,( no left over parts or extra labor)...
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
