New old sway bar question

RL world: I've reading quite a lot but haven't read anything too recent on the subject. For a Carrera 2 that will see double duty with emphasis on track days would it be better to stiffen the front vice the rear or even both front and rear? Only track driving that I've done was on an E92 M3 and on that car the magic recipe was/is to stiffen the front and leave the rear stock, but I'm sure that the little detail of having an engine hanging past the rear axle will have a lot to do with how these cars are set up. I suspect that these cars are steered, to a point, with the rear as I see that most aftermarket options are adjustable at the rear only, correct? What I improved so far: 1. Have been changing all suspension component bushings from oem to something solid or at least stiffer 2. Lowered the vehicle to 25" on all 4 corners, might raise the rear half an inch 3. Tire widths to 235/35 and 295/30-19, but still have the stock 18in stuff just in case 4. Camber plates up front, adjustable arms in rear 5. Adjustable toe arms front/rear My next items to pay attention to is the sway bars, and thought of going with 24mm front, adjustable if possible but after reading it seems that what works is replacing both F/R, but don't get why go higher diameter but then want to soften it with adjustability, or did I not get it right? Seems like a lot of changes especially if I've never tracked a 911, but as it sits, I feel that the car moves too much during turning transitions, a little floaty perhaps and I feel like body roll will be an issue. I will definitely be holding my instructor by the belt loop at my first PCA event! Please and thank you 996 gurus.

Yea u want to stiffin the front.. the carrera s sway works as an upgrade or aftermarket. My advice is ditch the 19s and stay 18s. The 19s will still rub at that height even with 2.5* of camber all the way around, oh yea and the 19s ride like ****. You also want to make sure your tire diameter are reslly, really close even on a c2 for tracking.

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So 18in and do 225/40 and 285/35?

Mk2 cars are 225/40-18 and 285/30-18 from factory (with 18"), Mk1, like yours were 265/35-18 in the rear.

If u r gonna track it with the correct rim and alignment u can go to a 315 on a nb in back and up to a 255 i think in front. The 225/285 is what i have now and i like it for the street, i dont track the car. As i said its real important to be under 1.5% different. Im not sure on the physics but u can feel it in the corners. Also on the sway bars make sure u get the correct bushings that match the bar diameter. Some intrrnet fishing will get u the part numbers.

I have spent literally thousands of hours at road race courses either driving/crewing/tuning cars, OR Working corners ,, So this is just a observational opinion,, and I haven't seen you drive or anything so its generic. Until you have some track time under your belt, save your money.. Parts are not a substitute for experience.. While your learning ,, its better if your car won't be on 900 lb per inch springs, and slicks. Before you put 5000 worth of suspension in , get a good cage if your planning on events that allow over 100.. A slightly loose car spins earlier,, and less violently,, if you build the car up to where its running high end suspension and slicks, when it lets go it lets go hard and slides much farther.. Never track anything you'll cry about when the tow truck comes.. Never track anything you cant write the check for and just walk away... 18" tires are easier to get for track use, and usually slightly cheaper.. And on most mostly stock cars,, (Barring lots of suspension work) handle better. Key learning,, if you don't know by driving the car, what needs done (Maybe with a small amount of coaching) Your not ready to change the parts yet.. its at best a rough starting point that will get you to the 80% mark. Internet advice is only worth what ya pay for it,, (Especially mine.. ) I've built sets of cars, 3 identical chassis, same year once with 3 sequential VIN numbers,, none of them drove on the exact same setup. They are roughly close but all run different spring and shock setups.. Enough that with the exact same parts 2 of the three were total pigs. Best thing you can do it keep a log book, Tire pressures every session, starting and ending, car setup, Tire data, weather, any change made gets logged. Good luck and have fun with the puzzle!

New transmission and SS motor mounts will help with that sloshing feeling out back.

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As all have mentioned, a good start but no need to overdo it until you get some seat time. A few comments and questions... *I use the same tire stagger, have 235/295 on 18�s and I like the balance. If the 19�s feel good to you, then should be all good. Most people run 18�s due to lower cost and better ride. *How did you lower the car? Just springs or coilovers? *Softer springs are not necessarily a bad thing for a 911, it really is about balance *I run stock C2 stab bars and like the balance. *As mentioned, the stiffer your car is, it may overwhelm your street or R tires and be worse than before *Definitely try it as it sits and ask the experts for advice after track time

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Yes the FF trans inserts was the best mod for the price. Great shifting feel, especially during track situations. FF motor mounts also installed. The combo is 💪👍.

You've made some good modifications to the car. It sounds like you're driving the car hard enough to expose the shortcomings of the current setup. The car moves on three axes: longitudinal, lateral, and vertical. Often you are combining two or even all three forces around those axes simultaneously at any given moment. ARBs influence only one of these moments (roll), the spring/damper system affects both pitch and roll. For example, ARBs have no influence over the vehicle's pitch motion under braking or acceleration however the springs & dampers play a large part. They also, along with the ARBs, affect the vehicle's motion in roll. You didn't mention whether you are on the stock spring/damper setup or if you've switched to coilovers or a performance spring/damper set. What are your plans for that? The ARBs are a pretty easy decision. Adjustable GT3 bars or equivalent (Porsche, Tarrett, TPC, GMG, H&R). Setup/adjustment stiffness will vary based on track conditions, how hard you're driving the car, and your driving style. That said, in general, a really stiff rear roll bar is the kiss of death for a 911s handling. I also agree with the other poster's comment about 18s being a better solution than 19s. I've experimented with a lot of F/R tire size combinations and have found that a 245/35/R18 & 295/30/R18 combination works really well in terms of balance & grip. I've run as large as a 315 at the rear, which fits, but raises the effective gearing and hurts acceleration too much. If Hoosier made an R7 in 305, which they don't, I would probably run a 255F/305R combo.

Thank you for the replies, you guys have given me a lot of food for thought, I appreciate it I'm using what the car had on when I got it, D2 coilovers , I feel that these are a weak link and probably the major cause for my lack of confidence on turn ins. 18in staggered will be a 18x8 and 18x11? Pdxmotorhead: My good sir, I have destroyed some fine machinery in my days, they all hurt regardless, but I agree 100% with your comments, thank you! I do agree that I need to try it out in its current form in order to correctly diagnose any/all shortcomings so that the remedies can be prioritized, the Porsche track life is not for the light hearted coming to find out. Damn near a TT car needs to be built to have some kind of assurance the it wont grenade itself; deep sumps, suspension, aero (maybe), etc. You guys are my heroes!

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For a 245/295 setup I would recommend an 8.5"F & 11"R but an 8" might be safer fit wise. Within a given fitment range for a particular section width, as wide as possible is generally better as it provides for a more stable contact patch. Fit is a bigger issue up front than in the rear and will depend on your particular suspension components and alignment settings, ie. how much camber you're running. I've gone as far as a 315/30 on a 18x12" at the rear and fit them with no problem at all, so a 295 on 18x11" will work easily. https://tiresize.com/tires/Hoosier/R7.htm