LN Engineering Billet Oil Plug Fail

Was quite a day yesterday. After TB/ICV cleaning and spark plug change, changed oil filter and drained oil. Installed my LN Engineering Billet Oil Plug that I have had for many years and many oil changes and began tightening it up. Well, then this happened and I have no explanation for it: How come it is that I have used this over and over again and it failed? I will be buying a new one and thank goodness it was simple enough to remove. Thankfully I had a new stock aluminum oil drain plug I could just pop in until the next oil change. BTW - I have never found anything sticking to the magnet but it is good to know it is in there.

I had one that broke too.....realized I was putting the same amount of torque as the stock drain plug. The LN plug uses about 20 lbs less torque.

It was strange. I had just barely gotten to the point of getting to the crush washer and tightening when I felt a give and thought ohh no. So it was not over torque, it just gave way. Despite that, like I said, I'll be ordering a new one from LN. I like the magnet and the larger bit hole. Maybe they have done some re-engineering because on the website they say the bit size is 8mm (like original drain plug) versus my broken one at 10mm. Seems to me that would make for a stronger head/shoulder area. We'll see....

Sorry to hear that you had a drain plug fail. Yes, we've redesigned the original version - first to go back to 8mm hex as many were torquing beyond the 19 ft/lb we specify and another revision to make it compatible with 09 and later 9A1 engines. That said, so few ever have problems, I would just advise you to contact LN directly and we'll warranty the drain plug and ship out a replacement no charge for your trouble.

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^ ^

I've had mine for six years, so it's probably of the first generation. I understand that nothing lasts forever so I have an OEM plug standing by just in case. I would have no problem buying a replacement if/when the time comes. It's a small price to pay for some peace of mind.

I've been using these since the first one was sold.. Which went into one of my engines. No complaints yet, almost a decade later and several hundred units used. Over torque kills these.

Mine failed the same way. Charles mentioned that it was the older version (it came installed on my '99) and had probably been over-torqued at some point. My indie did the first oil change during my "post-purchase inspection" and they probably did not realize it needed to be torqued differently than the factory plug. Charles offered to replace mine as well, but since I didn't buy it, it didn't seem right to accept it. Look familiar?

Awesome Charles! I will contact you at LN. And just for the record, I am in no way disappointed in the billet drain plug and would buy another one in a heartbeat.

A torque wrench and following the spec when tightening will prevent this and importantly protect the sump threads .

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No need for that if Jake patents and develops the "Faultless Drain Plug Tool".

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The fact that this plug will fail if over-torqued offers built-in protection for the sump threads. I think that is a design feature.

Broke mine, too... over torque.

The cool thing is that when the joint between the flange and the barrel failed - at least in my case - the barrel was still threaded into the sump plate and with the flange gone, there was no torque required to remove it. Removal was so painless it was almost...faultless...

Happy ending! Got in touch with LN Engineering yesterday and they are sending a new drain plug. I really appreciate that. Thanks Charles and Stephen at LN!

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Great job Charles! This is how a proper Rennlist vendor and sponsor acts. Well done. And the reason I have one in my 9A1 991 motor.

Interesting post as I have one of these with a spin-on filter kit that I have not installed yet as I have only had the car six months and the dealer did a LOF prior to purchase. Kind of scary I must say though it is good to see that you can get the plug out without difficulty is this happens (I hope it was easy at least).

Not that it will make anyone feel better about a plug failing, but the plug will come out easy. Nice that however it doesn't leak during operation, because of the fact the engine has an AOS on it. It will only leak when the engine is turned off. I learned the hard way years ago when developing the IMS Solution that if you crack the oil pan, it doesn't leak as long as you keep the engine running! I was in the middle of nowhere Canada when I hit road debris. Made it to a shop where a new pan was waiting for us and we were on our way in no time.

Not to drag this out much further because it is only a drain plug....Charles, great sponsor and great vendor. Thank you. Yes, once I realized the shoulder gave way, the 10MM bit was still in the drain plug and was easy to remove with just my fingers. No problem at all. I remember when I first got it I thought this is the most beautiful damn drain plug I've ever seen. LOL. I think the idea of going back to the 8MM bit is a very good one. I'm looking forward to my new (replaced under warranty) drain plug tomorrow! Now if I could just get my aches and pains to go away from spending 5 hours under the car replacing spark plugs. Ha! Life is good...

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Slightly confused here, did you jointly develop the IMS Solution with Jake?

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Yes, Charles and I teamed up to develop the IMS Solution. I originally had the Invention, but both of us had an equal amount of time and effort in the product after the original concept; therefore Charles' name is alongside mine on the the US Patent.

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Eh! Could 'nowhere Canada' have been somewhere south of Edmonton, Alberta?

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2hrs south of Calgary!

You were in Alberta, the most beautiful province we have. Consider yourself lucky it wasnt Saskatchewan.

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Update - Got a package on Friday and inside was a new drain plug w/washer. LN Engineering, Charles and Stephen stood by their word and all is well. Thanks guys! End of drama....

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I know... We made the trip without a single tool, or spare part with a Stage II 3.8 Track Performer... We were confident! I told Charles to watch those frost lines in the road, and he hit one running 90 MPH... Thats what caused the issue!

Just a thought, could you etch the torque spec on bottom/top?

Old thread but similar problem with my 8mm magnetic drain plug. I went to change my oil and stripped the hex head hole trying to REMOVE the plug. I can only imagine that I over torqued it when installing. I recall using a torque wrench to do it by the book, but now that I see there is a different spec for the LN plug vs stock, I don't recall which one I used. Based on the stuck drain plug, I guess I used factory specs. Now i'll have to have my Indy get it out. Maybe he can just weld a bolt to the drain plug and get it out without having to drop the pan and drill it out, or worse, replace the pan! Do torque specs come with the drain plug? I don't recall. Charles, any chance of sending a replacement plug? I'll contact the shop Monday.

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Torque specs are shown here but IIRC there was a printed torque spec included in the plastic bag with the drain plug. Over torque or use of torx bit (instead of hex bit) are the usual culprits. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PKMAGNETIC.html

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Yep! 19ft lbs.

Big sticker on the plug that says 19ft lbs.

Well, where I am now is that it's stuck in place. So assuming it was over torqued, it didn't break then, but now the allen head stripped and I can't get it out. I'll have my indy weld a bolt to the drain plug. Hopefully that will allow him to get it out. But MAN, it's in there tight! I recall using a torque wrench during the last oil change to install the drain plug (first time in my life, ironically enough!) but I assume I must have used 37ft/lbs not 19.

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If so, then I tightened it to 19. I recall using a torque wrench and if it said 19, I used that. It was months ago, so I don't recall exactly.

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I have found over the years that I really need to be careful with loosening and tightening the drain plug. It is aluminum(plus) and I found if the wrench end is not fully seated and a straight pull I was buggering it up a little each time. The hex socket used is only for the drain plug so it is in good shape. I bought a new plug and am more careful now...still... I have read several reports of how people have had luck getting broken ones out so maybe do a search.

My biggest concern is the dealership - I have to explicitly tell them 19 ft-lb every year it goes in for its OPC service. The 6 monthly service I do myself +996 on being careful I can see the potential for deforming it if you're not...

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We started putting the torque spec on the plug with a laser last year to try to address this issue. As another poster stated, the biggest issue we see are people using SAE size hex, worn out 8mm hex, or torx to install and remove the drain plugs. The easiest way to remove it is to take a torx bit, whatever one is just a bit too large to fit, and hammer it into the plug. Otherwise, an ez-out can be purchased from various places that will bite into the hex and allow you to remove the plug without any issue. Send an email to [email removed] about the drain plug and we'll take care of it.

I put in one of these several years and many oil changes ago & wouldn't have anything else: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...ss!25064!US!-1 No affiliation.

There are so many alternatives to our plug in multiple colors, most all made in China, or something that just happens to fit this application. We make the drain plug right here in Momence, IL. After it was knocked off by one aftermarket parts company, like several of our products, now there are many people duplicating it, however it's not the genuine article and there is a difference.

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Nice work - I'd like to take credit for that recommendation back in 2016... :-p please feel free to send me a new one haha!

I eliminated the need for a hex bit by going with this: https://drainplugmagnets.com/cars/porsche/

I also had one strip out on me last week (3rd oil change since I got it). I had bought a fresh 8mm socket to use and it still stripped when using a torque wrench. Maybe I need a new torque wrench

I'd much prefer a traditional bolt head. Who not?

If your torque wrench is a click type, and goes above about 75Ft lbs its too big of a wrench to use on the drain plug, standard 150 lb torque wrenches can easily be off by 20% at that low of a range.. I invested in a Snap on INch lb and low range ft lb torque wrench for bikes and the porsche..

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Make sure you torque wrench is accurate. And they need to be stored properly (lowest setting) or they'll lose their calibration. Also, make sure your socket is seated all the way down/up or it will twist and break as Billy noted above...

Yup, I have a small quarter inch drive torque wrench and a big half inch drive. Both always stored at 0.

As LN says, hammer whatever torx or hex bit that will fit and then try again to get it out. That's how I got mine out when it got stripped. I think I used a one-size-up hex bit. There must be a reason they don't use a standard bolt-like plug. It probably has to do with how flush the bolt has to be when installed. There's no room to get a wrench around the edge without making the bold head smaller and still have it not stick out. In any case, the metal is soft and I see this is a wear item. I will be replacing mine again after the next 3 or 4 oil changes, depending on how it looks. Not a lot of money for a good way to monitor what's going on in the engine.

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Torx is what the recommended (post #36) under this scenario.

I'll give it a try w/a torx as soon as my new plug arrives. YES, MY NEW PLUG! Thank you Charles for standing behind your products and providing outstanding support, even on something which could very well not have been your fault. Much appreciated.

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The 1/2" is to big, does your 1/4" drive go up to 19ft lbs?

I find a 3/8 to be perfect - otherwise my 1/4 drive has Nm and Inch-pounds Recently bought a digital torque adaptor but there is something more satisfying about feeling and hearing the click rather than a "beep".

I meant to say 3/8, not 1/4. Oops.

When using either Torx, or Hex bits, it makes them grab way better if you dress the end of the wrench flat, Many are extruded so end up convex on the end which keeps the face from bottoming out in the hole. I use a smal; v-block screwed to the grinder so I can get them flat and square faced..

Torx T50 did the trick! It was VERY easy. I suspect it being cooled down helped.

sadly mine cracked in the same way, and I always use a torque wrench at 18lb ft. guess it just happens.

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Have you tested the calibration of your TW?

yes, actually. Whatever, its $25 for a new bolt.

I think the first generation plugs were softer than the current version. I have an early one and I've not had any issues with it, but I'll replace it during the next oil change.

Coincidentally, I just changed my oil as well before putting my car to sleep for the winter and I remembered about the low torque setting for these Mag drain plug. I set my Craftsman TW to 19lb-ft and very slowly tighten that plug until it clicks. For some reason it felt a lot of force even though 19 ft-lb is not much. Maybe I was extra careful on that plug, but so far so good, no leaks, cheers...

Yes, the new plug is nicely labeled with torque requirement. I used the torque wrench and found 19ft lbs to be NOT a lot! Hopefully i'm good for the next 6 months or so. :-)