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YOUR RESEARCHMotor Mount Installation
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Use other projects
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The thing about tools - assuming you don't mind taking that plunge - is they last a long time and can be used for other projects.
Leading evidence: 'Use other projects' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean while' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use ramps for oil changes and also used them when I did motor mounts.
Use these at the recommendation of other rennlisters
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I used these at the recommendation of other rennlisters:
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Suggestion
I like to do some cleaning while under there anyway.
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Suggestion
I bought a fantastic low rise Daytona jack at Harbor Freight recently to replace my old aluminum jack.
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Thanks. I haven�t seen a break down but i got a quote of $535 for parts and labor ($125/hr). Also not sure which mounts they plan on using. Waiting on more info.
I used these at the recommendation of other rennlisters:
Amazon
Amazon
and my experience has been positive, as well. Like anything else, of course, your $$$, your decision. Good luck getting it done whatever you decide.
I did mine this weekend.
From RockAuto they're just $81.51 each for Rein using the 5% off code. (IM me if you need the code)
It took me just over 30 minutes to install them.
Did mine a few months ago. Same parts, same source. Not sure my after-discount price was that low, but not off by much.
Very easy job. The hard part is getting under the car and removing the nuts off the studs that point downward. But with a lift - that part becomes easy.
But with a lift, you need to support the engine and work from above to remove the upper bolts. I think it took me less than an hour.
I see this car hasn't gotten any cleaner since I've owned it...
Would anyone honestly suggest mount replacement as a 1st ever DIY project for someone with zero tools and zero mechanical experience? Maybe i should start with brakes and work my way up. Between work and caring for an ill spouse i think my time is best spent elsewhere for now.
I did find out previously mentioned quote includes using Rein mounts. I will get a second quote from another indi and then make a decision.
as always, I appreciate this forum for all the useful info and prompt feedback that it provides.
It doesn't take many tools, but you need a decent car jack. This is much easier than brakes. I think the bottom bolt is 18mm and the tops are 13mm. If you had those sockets plus whatever it takes to get the airbox and I believe air pump off, it will not take long. I'm sure Pelican Parts has a great DIY article.
I more than willing to reconsider.....what car jack would you recommend? Let me start with that. I have a garage with flat concrete floor to work with. I value safety over cost!
Any cheap
floor jack
will do. But, investing in decent quality tools will pay for itself in the long run. Ramps or jack stands are a must to have in your arsenal...
You don't need to lift the car to do this, other than maybe driving up onto some 2x12s to give yourself a little bit of room, so long as you are ok being a bit uncomfortable. Then the jack you need to do this is basically any jack, with a piece of plywood on top to spread the load, because you're just going to use it to hold up the engine.
If you wanted to life the whole car, you need a jack and jack stands, and you need the jack to be one that fits under the Porsche...and then this stops being the job to make your first one to do yourself because despite being easy you just spent more than you saved by buying tools.
Any jack you can get at Sears would be fine. If your car is standard height (mine is not) you just need it to support the engine. You'll also need a two by four to spread out the weight.
You might hesitate to do this yourself, but you could save yourself $400 bucks. Where are you in NJ? I'm in Livingston.
I bought a fantastic low rise Daytona jack at Harbor Freight recently to replace my old aluminum jack.
You will essentially need to jack up the car onto ramps or jackstands, then you need the jack to support the engine during motor mount replacement with a piece of wood between it and the jack. Get a low profile jack, I believe this is the one I got.....every weekend they have a sale, just sign up for their texts. You'll get 20% usually.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nge-64240.html
And you can get a set of plastic Rhino Ramps. I just jack up one side of the car, put it backwards under the wheel, go around to the other side, repeat.
Then once you the car jacked up, you jack up the engine (just take a little weight off it with the jack and a piece of wood) and then you can unbolt the 18 mm from underneath and then you can unbolt the two 13 mm's from the top. Easy.
Here is the procedure, there is no reason to have the car up on the Rhino Ramps, now that I think about it, I did not do that.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
This is what I used. I had to put the car on ramps because it's so low, but that meant I was at the limit of my jack's travel when I went to raise the engine. Not an issue, but it would have been easier if I didn't have to use the ramps.
Only two issues I had were taking out the secondary air pump (just because I thought I'd break a hose or something) and the nuts were stuck (solved by my breaker bar). Getting it up on the ramps was the toughest part.
I would put engine mount replacement above brake work as a first DIY project. With some basic tools - ones you will want anyway - this is a simple task. Only you can decide if other life events need to take priority. Caring for a spouse ought to be right at the top of that list. I'm sure I share the same sentiments as all here - we wish you and your wife the best.
Regarding your quote - I think you are getting overcharged a bit. Should you decide to tackle this yourself, you could easily buy the mounts from a place such as Rock Auto, a nice little tool kit, a jack and jack stands and still come out ahead (Harbor Freight has good prices - but the quality is a bit lower than top brands). The thing about tools - assuming you don't mind taking that plunge - is they last a long time and can be used for other projects.
Yes - safety first! Always use jack stands and always be careful.
That is a good article and Pelican is a good source of information. Those numbers for time and "talent" are reasonably fair if you've never done much in the way of work on a car. I'd rate the "talent" level closer to two wrenches (or three beers on my scale).
You know we're here to help you if you want to take this on.
New OEMs smoothed engine vibrations but not as much as I expected. Don't want to increase vibrations so wouldn't install a semi or solid mount. Release clip for MAF plug is on back firmly depress to release, 9" socket extension to reach up to nut through exhaust pipes, two jacks pushing up on 2x8 or so on sump to unload bottom nuts when torqueing to 63 ft lbs.
If you have zero tools, no jack, etc, you're going to spend nearly your quoted price buying all that. You might end up only saving a couple hundred bucks. On the plus side, you will gain knowledge and confidence to try other repairs.
One word of warning: Be EXTREMELY careful with the oil filler tube. Mine broke when either removing or reinstalling the stock airbox. This resulted in a series of repairs that cost about $2500 once all was said and done.
Also, I second the Rein mounts from RockAuto. Definitely the parts AND place to buy from.
Absolutely true, AND he'll have tools to use for the next DIY (mentioned elsewhere) thereby increasing the savings in the future.
Can you elaborate on this for him (and us)? We don't want to scare a new DIY-er without some detail. Did your misfortune uncover other delayed maintenance? Or was it a cascading series of "oops" events?
Another voice here that agrees with buying from RockAuto!
Using ramps gives you clearance and makes things so much easier. Just need a longer FK or a block of wood. They've come in handy many times over.
Oil fill tube...I forgot to unclip my oil fill tube the very first time I removed the airbox. Unhook everything , lift 1.5-2" and tilt it back towards you slowly and remove. Kind of like rolling it out of place.
I didn't use any either, and I'm
NOT
skinny.
You only need to get underneath to place a board (Mine is a small piecse of 1" thick pine ~8"x12") between your jack and your sump plate, and to look under the rear for the motor mount nut.
If you can fit underneath, you've gone too far under the car.
Jacking it up for this job is like jacking it up to replace a tail light bulb.
It's just not necessary.
If you want to go ahead and do it anyways, at least take a good look around at everything while you're there so you haven't wasted your time.
That's another reason I like the ramps. It's so easy to back right up and get under there to look everything over. I like to do some cleaning while under there anyway.
That makes sense.
But jacking it up, or getting out ramps for only doing this job doesn't.
I have ramps right next to the car, so it's not a big deal to drive up onto them, except then I usually can't shut my garage door.
That mean no potty breaks, or rest breaks unless someone else is home to guard the garage so I won't come back to missing tools.
Too much foot traffic past my house to leave the garage door up when the garage is empty.
Sad that you have to worry about this. Morality only seems to be getting worse.
Same thing here. We haven't locked the doors to our house since it was built in 2012. We leave the keys right in the ignition of all of our cars. We have trucks with automatic transmissions - they're the only ones we remove the keys from.
Now after disclosing this - I'm sure Tex and Bill we be over in the middle of the night to steal stuff from us. You guys actually have my address....
