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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCoolant everywhere while driving...
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect lines
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have started my investigation by removing the CAI, air blower, engine lid, and disconnected the lines to the expansion tank (since theres no fluid).
Leading evidence: 'Disconnect lines' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'intake/vacuum leaks' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check oil' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I fixed that little guy, put the car back together, filled the coolant and went to start it....
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
And this ^ is why people don't like buying used cars worked on by do-it-yourselfers.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Discussions that suspect a cause
1
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Repair jobs themselves often had some entertaining choices
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
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Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
Most of the used cars I have bought who did repair jobs themselves often had some entertaining choices for replacement parts in an attempt to not pay the higher prices for the correct parts.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
50 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Once the problem is fixed, you can always drain the whole system and refill with fresh coolant at that point.
Hello again,
Today I let my car warm up to normal operating temperature and took it out for a fun drive. The car did fine for the first 10 miles of cruising between 70-107. Then all of a sudden cruising at ~83 it had a little jerk and felt like it was in limp mode. I was able to down shift but it would not allow me to go over ~3500 RPM, and if I tried to give it more gas it would ignore my request for power. My coolant gauge started to climb and could see light smoke in my rear view so I parked it in a safe place, got a trailer and brought it home. I have started my investigation by removing the CAI, air blower, engine lid, and disconnected the lines to the expansion tank (since theres no fluid). so far everything is still covered in coolant. There is two areas that are far worse, (Looking forward from the rear of the car) The back right and the forward left.
I need some guidance on things to check and look for, There is coolant all over the engine under the intake manifold. Oil still looks like oil. Water pump is not as covered in coolant as the spots shown.
Are you asking where it came from or what may or may not have been damaged from the coolant loss? If you're asking where, your coolant line adhesive obviously failed somewhere. As for what may have been damaged, if you shut it down quickly before the temp went up too much, you'll hopefully be ok.
Easiest is to reconnect the coolant lines then fill the coolant tank with water to FULL. Then use a pressure tester to pressurize it to no more than 18 PSIG and then look for leak.
Right because most likely you have a gross leak somewhere and it will be silly to waste fresh coolant just to find the leak. Once the problem is fixed, you can always drain the whole system and refill with fresh coolant at that point.
^^ This. And check the plastic hose fitting for the AOS right next to the alternator. Known to blow at the most inappropriate time. Given your description, it sounds like the AOS or one of the coolant lines to it blew.
It would not go into any kind of limp mode if all the parameters are still normal. Since the coolant didn't go into the red and the alarms wasn't triggered, the ECU would not put the car into limp mode. Something else caused the no throttle response. As stated above, fill it with water, pressurize it and see where it leaks. Might not even need to pressurize it.
You're right. Not sure why. This next picture was taken 10 days later and it's correct. I was doing a lot of work on it back then and it wasn't on the road for a few months. I must have caught it right away. Good observation.
Yes it is. Those aren't the ribs you are seeing (count them), they are blurred lettering from the printing on the belt. It's a blurred picture of a belt in motion.
You guys are good, That's it exactly. But it sure does look like it's on backwards. Picture below without belt. This is the best place to go for any info on our 996's
Now drill out the coupler part of the plastic and replace with a brass barb fitting from Home Depot and use fuel injection hose clamps. You’ll never have to worry about it again, It will last a lifetime.
I�ve done the home depot brass barb, but for the $40 or so bucks it costs, I�ll use the aluminum and stainless one available (Rauch and Spiegel) every time.
I just took a chrome covered copper toilet supply tube and cut it to fit after drilling out the original holder. Just make sure to get all the plastic out of the hose. I ended up replacing the water pump and thermostat at same time so I could flush out the system of any plastic bits I missed.
Excellent aftermarket part and it should have come from the factory that way. Would love to get that someday. The stock plastic is fine when new but becomes brittle when old.
IMO, things done half assed is what gives DIY a bad reputation and why people want proof of work done by dealers or indies.
Your theory falls apart, since you are speaking in absolutes. I do all my own work, and to factory specifications, but I'm tarred with the same brush as the person who cuts corners and just wings it.
Buyers want proof from a shop or a dealer because they don't believe the seller that the work was actually done. That's the bottom line. People lie when they sell their used cars, it's human nature and those that are not DIY'ers can't tell if a work was done or not because they don't know what to look for. Every time I sell a project car, I keep all the old parts that I took of to fix the car just so I can show them that the work was actually done. It's amazing how well that works. Once the car is sold, I throw out the old parts but never before.
Shops cut corners too. I've seen and worked on Porsches that got butchered at the reputable independent Porsche shops.
So I tried to remove the brittle plastic piece from the top and it continued to break inside of it. The bottom piece how ever broke down so I had to remove the part it was connected to. Here�s the inside of that to get you recommendations.
It does not feel like sludge... all that was in there was some clear-ish Fluid but there is depressions in there that make it look as if its a build up of sludge.
I fixed that little guy, put the car back together, filled the coolant and went to start it.... well it stayed on for about 2 seconds. I figured it was because of the steep incline of the ramps so i put it back on level ground and it still just dies off. I will go to about 1700 RPM then tries to stop at idle but then drops to 300 where it will try to save itself and fail
. Looking for any input
More info for sorting the fault;
I have tried a different key but no real change. Its not always the same start up. Does have a weird smell, but not like electrical fire, coolant, or oil.
Get that fixed. There r many threads on this issue and symptoms causing your issues. A quick search for the repair will help its kinda a pita to get the new one back together. Also i think u will want to get a new o-ring too.
I never had a check engine light or poor running conditions with this crack in oil filler tube. Just got a bit messy with adding oil. It is a pita to replace, but a little patience and new O ring for sure.
mine was rubbing in something for awhile. Probably because my snorkel connection to airbox was loose/broken.
yeah, no it won't.
A minor vacuum leak doesn't cause cars to just shut off. It might run lumpy or even have a high idle (which would make sense given the unmetered air).
Now that i replaced that coupling for the coolant line from AOS, I Was driving it and a "purge" sound started. like pressure would build up and then the sound and then nothing. but it would be another second or two before it did it again. there's a sweet smell so coolant but no drops on the ground after sitting for a while. it took two gallons of coolant so far (though i didnt do the pressure refill just topped the container off. Two things come to mind: first being the fitting i installed (or another coolant line) isnt tight enough or the coolant system is purging the air trapped in the system. What are your thoughts?
You let the car idle long enough to get the car up to operating temp? That's never a good idea for any car, but especially for a car with the M96 engine!
I agree with CDS72911. I'm not sure what you mean. I've worked on all of my family's and my cars since I was 13. Most of the used cars I have bought who did repair jobs themselves often had some entertaining choices for replacement parts in an attempt to not pay the higher prices for the correct parts.
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