Rotor question

I need to replace the front and rear pads and the front rotors on my 2004 cab, the rears can last until the next pad change. Does it matter if the front and rear rotors are from different suppliers? I don't know what is on the car now and am leaning towards Zimmerman for the front rotors, along with Porterfield R4-S street pads.

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I can only hazard a guess that as long as both sets of rotor are of the slotted type (which run cooler in operation) they should be fine. It is an easy DIY job. You may need to use an impact screw driver to remove the rotors. Good luck.

The brand of rotors front/rear make no difference as long as they match side to side. Same goes for pads.

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That's what I presumed but wasn't sure. The rotors are drilled and I think I should stay with that. I think they are original, the car has 46k miles. My mechanic said the fronts wear 2x the rears, just opposite of tires, and that make,perfect sense. I'm assuming this will be no more difficult a job than my 968 was last year.

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2nd. No need to have any sort of matching front to rear.

I had the rotors checked with a micrometer and am now confused. The fronts measured 29.2mm and 28.9mm. Per the WSM, fronts new are 28mm and should be replaced at 26 mm.. So how could used rotors be thicker than new? There is a lip around the rotors so I'm thinking about having them machined down to remove the lip so new pads don't squeal. But then the measurements were greater than new?? The calipers look stock, except the left front doesn't have Porsche lettering on them like the other three do. The rears measured 23.6 mm and 23.7 mm. New rears should be 24 mm and should be replaced at 22 mm. So the rear have a lot of miles left on them. I'll just put on new rear pads and wear indicators and they will be good for quite a while. I have no records from the PO about any brake changes or service, other than fluid changes. Next step - remove a rotor and see if any markings on the back??

Its a pretty simple project. I used coated after market rotors, so hopefully no rust. Get the fitting kits, makes it easier. From memory the Porsche parts have Left & Right printed on them, the after market ones did not, so just make sure you get direction of rotation correct. Pelican have this handy thread. I did not replace caliper bolts, but recommended too. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...rake_Discs.htm

This is the DIY video that I used. I found it to be very easy even though I had never done a brake job on any car before. You Tube

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You can just remove a wheel to check the back of the rotor. If you're not tracking the car, consider getting your rotors from Brake Performance. Cheap hunks of steel for ~75 per corner. They work just fine and you won't notice any difference between cross-drilled or slotted or two-piece or whatever. Given that you have no records, you might just spend the money and replace them. It's inexpensive preventative maintenance and a relatively easy DIY. If you have no tools/experience, you'll just need invest in some hex or star sockets (to get the calipers off) and a torque wrench (to get them (and the wheels) back on). Other than that, it's basically a jack, wheel lugs, and a phillips screwdriver. If no hiccups, maybe two hours your first time doing this. [And the first one will take you 45 minutes, but once you know the routine, the others will go faster]. -td

Not that you need it, but if the rotor screws are tight or buggered, you'll appreciate having a manual impact driver and a hammer. It's a cheap tool (~$20) that comes in handy. Also I picked up a set of Meyle rotors, and they seem good, while remaining reasonably priced. Not used for track, just the street. I think some of the board vendor sponsors (Warehouse33, maybe) have good pad/rotor bundles for decent prices.

I had Sebro slotted front and rear rotors when I bought the car... worked great for me during regular driving and spirited Autocross work. Just a few weeks ago I switched them out for brand new ones and I am still very pleased with the Sebro rotors. Also my car came with PRB pads front and rear... incredible pads... but terrible squealing on the street. Switched them out for Cool Stop pads last year and an happy... not as aggressive as the PRB pads but no squeal.

I went for OE style Hella/Pagid rotors. Look great with the bright plating instead of paint and got the job done affordably.

You don't need to machine the lip. my gauge is recessed so the lip doesn't throw off the measurements - you might be able to cut out a notch in yours to do the same. If you're noticing squealing now, it might be from the metal covering the brake sensors - you'll see it when you remove the pads. They should go away when you change the pads. You should also buy some anti-squeal spray anyway. Finally, don't forget to bed the brakes afterwards.

Thanks for all the comments guys. The video is helpful, looks a lot like the brakes (rotors and pads) on my 968 that i did last year. Looks like a piece of cake (famous last words). I have purchased a set of Porterfield R4-S street pads, that's what i put on my 968 and very pleased with their performance. I'll check Warehouse33 on rotors. mrjonger, i don't have any squealing now so the pads aren't totally worn, have 3mm left on the fronts and 5 mm on the rears, but they are getting there, i think the min is 2 mm. I did get some new wear sensors to install as well as "pad backings" for anti-squeal. What's confusing me is the mic readings on the fronts, they are worn but mic wider than new. Will remove a wheel tomorrow and see if i can determine the brand. I can see that the pads are Textar, Porsche OEM, so I'm guessing the same on the rotors and that the tech didn't get his mic correct on either rotor. The rear rotors have a lot of life left, mic at 23.6 mm and new are 24. I may try cutting some of the lip as suggested and see if that gives me a better reading..

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Let me know if you have any questions. -Jason

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Whoa, I definitely was not clear.To be clear, I meant cutting out a piece of the measuring tool so the rotor lip doesn't impact the readings. I would advise against cutting the actual rotor lip! Hmm, not sure what to make of the readings being more than new.