Which size torque wrench

I'm getting a torque wrench to install my winter tires. It's 94 ft-lbs. Is there any reason to get the Craftsman 25-250 ft-lbs ($110) instead of the cheaper 20-150 ft-lbs ($67) wrench? What kind of common DIY jobs would require over 150 ft-lbs? Thanks.

just so you get 1/2 " drive for a 1/2" , 19mm deep socket.

First, for a 1/2" drive just to do lug nuts I would go with a cheaper torque wrench. I have a spare I use only for lug nuts. Get a 19mm impact socket (thicker walled and black in color). At 100 ft-lbs, it isn't hard to split a thin walled socket. I would suggest saving some money and getting one from Harbo Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239 When it comes to other things like torquing down a valve body or flywheel, I would get a better microclick torque wrench. There isn't much that requires over 150 ft-lbs of torque. Nothing in the suspension of a 996 needs it. I have only come across a couple of things that would need more. The front axle nuts on a Maxima are around 220 ft-lbs and require a special long torque wrench to loosen. The center lock nuts for the wheels on a 959 or Carrera GT require a special torque-multiplied gearset to be torqued properly.

A few things about torque wrenches,......... 1) Torque wrenches are most accurate between 80% of their ranges. Within 20% of the end of range, accuracy really falls away. For wheel lugs, I'd use the 25-250 version, hands down. 2) IMHO, cutting corners and buying cheap for such a lifetime tool is false economy given whats at stake. VERY few people every have these tools checked and recalibrated during their lifetime and I think one should buy a good one. Craftsman consumer grade used to be good but no longer. Mac, Snap-on, Stahlwille, Proto and Craftsman Professional are all OK.

Actually split beam torque wrenches are the most accurate. Steve is right that MAC, Snap-on are the most accurate, but IMO torque on lug bolts are not that crucial to be dead on accurate. Have you ever seen the dealer monkeys impact the lugs on with their Ingersol? Man they must wrench them on over 150ft/lbs. If your only doing lugs the $67 one is fine or you even can buy the Craftsman torque wrench with the bar meter torque guage. I thinks its about $30 and its pretty accurate, but does not ratchet. If your doing engine work a split beam is most accurate, but they are over $200 for a good one.

Now I could be wrong here, but precision crafted instruments are pretty unique. Scientific laboratories and agencies spend gazillions of dollars on instruments in order to ensure their accuracy to billionths of a decimal place. Put another way, measuring correctly ain't that easy. So here's the thing, if you had no problem spluring multiple tens of thousands on a 996, don't you think you could pony up a c note for a decent torque wrench? I mean, skip that movie date one night and you're done.

Having the bolts evenly tightened is a large part of the goal of using a torque wrench. The absoulute number might be off by some %, but the number is repeatable. How many people use a quality "certified" torque wrench? Is there a rash of wheels falling off on the track (and elsewhere) because of not using a $700 torque wrench? I think 02's advice about using an inexpensive wrench dedicated to wheel fastening is sound. These are not complicated instruments. And why wouldn't a 20-150 ft/lb wrench be accurate for wheel bolt/nut torque? 150 x .90=135 right? 135 ft/lbs is way over common wheel fastener torque specs, is it not?