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YOUR RESEARCHChanging our Brake Pads....
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Check invoice(s)
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With regars to the vibration dampers, I just checked my invoice(s).
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I used the same instructions for a friend's 2001 996 and they were fine.
Use tinies pair of pliers you've ever seen) just pull
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
remove wear sensors, carefully, (i used the tinies pair of pliers you've ever seen) Just pull on them gently, almost "working or coaxing" them out
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Suggestion
Yes, changing pads AND rotors are extraordinarily easy, as is adjusting the parking brakes.
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Am I smoking crack, or....
Is changing brakes on our 996's the easiest thing you've ever done?
I did my fronts last night, and let me tell you, it was so simple, I actually kept double and triple checking to make sure I wasn't missing something....gotta love racing heritage.
btw, went with OEM Sport Pads
2000 C4 Cpe
Could you post a how-to for the technically challenged?
I track a lot and have got to ween myself off relying on my mechanic.
What id you do with the brake wear sensors?
no, just the pads, rotors are less than 10k on them, and have very little runout, they are fine....changing them would have been easy too, just didn't need to.
Pad changes are so easy its not funny. Got a plier, screwdriver, maybe a small hammer and new pads? have at it! Certainly "race inspired" by the quickness of it all.
well, i've never posted a how to, but believe me, this one is easy.
1. Jack car
2. Remove wheel
3. On the outboard side of the calipers, on the inside, there is a small cotter pin, remove.
4. The larger pin that the aforementinoned cotter pin holds in place needs to be tapped out from the front, you'll see it, believe me, it's very obvious.
5. the retaining clip that the pin that is being tapped out, will then spring out, once pin is removed.
6. remove wear sensors, carefully, (i used the tinies pair of pliers you've ever seen) Just pull on them gently, almost "working or coaxing" them out
7. with a putty knife or something similar, work pads loose against the pistons.
8. remove pads
9. pick up backing place that will likely fall on the ground
10. use science, and some care, but you'll need to press the pistons back to get the new pads in, as they have no doubt sqeezed all the way once pads are removed. (I used a long flat wrench, so that I could get both sides of the pistons evenly depressed.)
11. install new pads
12. reinstall wear sensors, same spot they came from
13. put "retaining" clip thing back on
14. run large pin through (from the back) aligning it through the inside pad, retaining clip thingy, and outside pad
15. reinstall cotter pin
16. wheel back on
17. car back down
18. rejoice
19. re-seat pads. enjoy the drive (wash hands first)
That is about the best I can recall, it might be simpler than that, or a tad more difficult, although it DID shock me how easy it was.
No bolts to remove, that's amazing.
For those of you that have done it before, just let me enjoy this very simple, yet satisfying DIY.
I recommend it to anyone, it's very therapeutic.
I've always heard you should change brake fluid in conjunction with pad change. Is this true, or can you stick to the 2 year interval (assuming no track etc.)?
Yes, changing pads AND rotors are extraordinarily easy, as is adjusting the parking brakes. No reason whatsoever to have a dealer do any of this. There are complete step-by-step explanations, with pictures, at
www.renntech.org
.
It is also easy to bleed brake fluid, and to bleed the clutch, although that is a little more difficult to reach. I recommend the Motive power bleeder to make the job easier.
Link below has very detailed instructions on how to change Boxster pads and rotors. I used the same instructions for a friend's 2001 996 and they were fine. Did pads and rotors on all four wheels in under 3 hours. Remarkably easy project.
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/
I can't agree more, just did mine for the first time in prep for 1st DE event (Gratten). I was surprised at how easy it was. For some reason the brakes did not have the dampers which made the whole process even simpler as the pads easily slide out after seperating them a bit. I am leaving them out as well for now.
Geez. It's that easy. And to think I just forked out $1.5K for parts and labor for the C4S. Someone give me a kick in the rear. Never mind. I did it myself. It'll be a DIY from now on. May be a good excuse to get those hydraulic lifts I've been salivating on.
Nick, you can stick to the 2 year interval if you never track the car. I do bleed my own brakes, about evry 6 months. Motive power bleeder is the way to go, with appropriate brake fluid of course.
With regars to the vibration dampers, I just checked my invoice(s). They never replaced them, and I've never had a problem. They did replace the brake wear sensors. You do have to replace the sensors if the warning lights ever come on.
They were in there, but they probably just didn't slide out with the pads. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. I always leave mine in and reuse. I do not have any noise issues.
I too was shocked at how easy it is. I do the entire swap with only 2 flat head screwdrivers: one small and one big. I use the big one to pull back the pads. I leverage off the rotor to where the pad surface meets the back plate and pry lightly. The pistons easily retract. I then use the small screwdriver to remove the pin holding in the clip. I push lightly on the clip with my thumb to relieve tension on the pin and pull the pin out. I then use the small screw driver to pry under the flat part (not the sides) where the sensors mount in the backing plates to get them out. They pop right out. It actually takes longer to bed in a new set of pads than put them on.
When changing the pads, do not loose or break those little cotter pins. You cannot get replacements for them without the entire brake set; which, by the way, costs a lot.
If anyone out there has the solution to getting this little pins without replacing everything else, please share the info with us.
Otherwise, changing pads and rotors are pretty simple...most of the time.
Sure, there is nothing magic about the Porsche cotter pins. You can buy generic replacements from any auto or hardware store. Generic cotter pins of the appropriate size should cost about $0.05 eaach. All they do is just hold that rod in, which doesn't have any lateral force on it whatsoever. The pins just keep the rod from vibrating out.
Palting,
Don't bother with those stupid sensors. Just unplug them and zip tie them out of the way. They are a PIA that you just don't need. Just check your brake pads manually and you don't need to rely on the idiot light. When you get ready to sell the car, just snip the zip ties and plug them back in.
TD
