An IMSB question for 1999 owners past and present

Just to be upfront I am not attempting to deny or defer the fact that all 996 cars were open to this failure. What I would like to know is three things- Have you had yours changed and what was the condition? Have you not changed it and why? I have read that the 1999 is unique as far as this problem goes because it is different from the other years, double row and the failure rate may be as low as 1% as apposed to 8%-10% for other years. I know this subject has been discussed to death. I only bring it up because I own a 99. I believe it still has the original IMSB and I do intend to change it when I need a clutch along with the RMS. 20 years should show a lot of history and with exception of trolls plenty of up to date information could be discussed by past and present owners. And btw I love my car.

1% was an estimate that has risen and continues to rise...We just saw a 99 dual row fail a week or two ago. If you can't afford to rebuild your motor if it fails then a retro-fit is cheap insurance. I'd save for the LN Solution if you love and want to keep your car. Good luck with what you choose to do either way.

One thing to always check is the engine's serial number. I thought I was good to go since I had an early car, but turns out it had an AT serial number and the engine was replaced sometime within the period that the small single row was produced. My car was not as safe as I had thought. I installed the LN kit on mine with the clutch and flywheel replacement.

I changed mine on my 1999 with 76,000 miles when it needed a new clutch. Did a number of other things while I had the engine out as well. The bearing was indeed the dual row original bearing and it had no issues, leaking, etc. Appeared to be in excellent condition. It was an easy choice for me since I was already dropping the engine for the clutch, AOS, etc. Cheap peace of mind.

160 000 km on ours. Motor was replaced with another 99 motor around 90 000 km. Still on the fence about doing IMS Solution. Too many things it seems can blow up the motor. Bore scoring seems to be the new boogeyman thay has come o to the spotlight...

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Have you had yours changed and what was the condition? I had my IMS bearing changed out with clutch service. The mechanic was a certified installer of LN bearings. Therefore, the car had to go through pre-qualification. Thankfully, it passed. After extraction, the bearing was shown to me. The shaft was filled with oil, the permanent grease seal was compromised, and the bearing did not spin without some resistance; but fortunately, the bearing had not begun to shed any metal. I caught it in time. Mine was the dreaded single row which was proven to have the most failures. I have read that the 1999 is unique as far as this problem goes because it is different from the other years, double row and the failure rate may be as low as 1% as apposed to 8%-10% for other years. Actually, Charles Navarro of LN Engineering states that the M97 large single row was the most durable of all the three versions of bearing. The dual row found in the early models of the 996 and 986 was second place. The single row that was found mostly in the Mk2 996 and '05 997 was the worst of the bunch. In my opinion, regardless if it's a dual row or a single row, I'd replace it with the clutch service. Best form of insurance. I wouldn't live under the cloud thinking nothing will ever happen because it a dual row bearing. And because you say "I love the car", then install the IMS Solution and don't look back!

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This is the plan. Forgive my ignorance but what is an AOS?

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Air-Oil Separator. Kind of a fancy PCV. https://myemail.constantcontact.com/...id=eTkBY9h8Ej4

Air Oil Separator

Yes I have heard of the AOS as well. This is a $5000 job I have been told when doing everything. I�m not afraid to spend the money but boy to I hate to waste it. I need to locate an LN certified mechanic in my area that I can trust. I am not a fan of mechanics. No doubt they are honest hard working people. With my luck I will end up with a money grabbing scumbag. This is why I am compelled to do it myself. I know I am capable while at the same time if I do it there are no guarantees.

Best $5K you can spend, you don't want to do this yourself...Trust me!

LN Certified Installers https://lnengineering.com/resellers-...resellers.html They have to go through a rigorous certification process. You cannot go wrong with the LN Certified Installers.

I've got a 4/98 build date with the dual row and haven't changed it. Just turned 100k on it and always peel apart the oil filter when I change the oil to see if there are any metal particles. With the low failure rate on the 99s and mine being a DD this is not something I lose sleep over. All cars have issues of one kind or another. I just had to replace the transmission in my F-150.

Had mine replaced on my 99, it looked good, there was no metal in the filter when I had my PPI 6 months prior. Figured it was cheaper than an engine build, needed the AOS, RMS and clutch done anyway.

My car is a ‘99 model with a December ‘98 build date. It’s on its original two-row bearing and about 110k miles (170k km). My independent mechanic, who knows the 996/997 inside-out, says to leave it alone, so that’s what I’m doing. My transmission bearings make some noise, so I’ll have the tranny rebuilt at some point and do the IMS at the same time. I’m not in a hurry, though. @808Bill why do you say this is a job best left to a pro? It looks straightforward enough, but I’m no expert.

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Your last four words sum it up... I would not want to do it again!

99 here, changed at 85K, great condition according to the shop. I only changed it because I didn't know the type of driving from previous owners or how much time it was spent being utilized. I did my clutch at the same time($250)

I have 2 99's, one is a tip with 176k on the original IMSB that the outer seal was removed 12 years ago(still going strong). The other is a 6MT with 75k that last year while I was replacing the clutch and IMSB, I found the IMSB had play in the bearing and was on its way out. The car had lost a belt a few years ago and the engine overheated and I believe that is what caused the seal damage and ultimately the failing IMSB.

See this is where I get all jammed up. I didn�t really want to bring it up but on the heels of the last two posts I have a friend who is a retired Porsche mechanic. I met him about a dozen years ago. I have talked with him in depth about this. I have been told that many of the failures are caused be the drivers themselves. Driving the car improperly to much something has got to give. He also told me that Porsche continued to build the engines the same way because they knew what they were seeing but they were under warranty and had to back it up. Then came the lawsuit. Anyhow to the point I was told by this gentleman who worked on Porsche�s for over 30 years at Park Porsche in Lawrence Ma. That if I wanted a bargain buy a 1999 996. I wanted a 993 as I owned one before and loved it but it would have taken me a couple of more years before I would have the cash. So when I found this �gem� with 50,000 miles on it. One owner car dealer maintained for a very good price I bought it. No regrets. My friend is to old now to help me. But he did tell me that while working at the dealership they seldom saw a bad bearing on the 1999. The years to follow simply could not take the abuse. Hitting the rev limiter 50 times and with other bad driving and maintenance will do it. These are not air cooled cars. Anyway when I do the clutch I will take it out and look at it. It�s either going back in or will be replaced. I am also aware of a few other things that I really can�t say about these cars but others on here know the story. The true story. The 996 is a great car. Special car. Someday this will be acknowledged. That dirtbag who wrote that column really hurt these cars reputation.

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Brian996, it is my understanding that once a IMS bearing is removed, it can't be put back in; it has to be replaced.

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Good to know. See that�s why I ask questions. That�s how I learn. Thanks

It's reputation allowed you to get one when you did...Same as me!

I did my own a couple of years back. I'm no pro, but wouldn't hesitate to do it again myself. Overall not too terrible of a job, if not on the clock. I took my time, completed the project over a period of maybe a week, an hour or so an evening. Pulling the transmission back and coupling it back up was the biggest task and really should have two people to manage it. I did have a small transmission jack and a Faultless Tool to install with. Like Prof, mine was on the early point of failing.

One thing I would add, is that if you have no plans to sell and its a long term car do the IMS solution. There is no doubt in my mind that is the way to go on these cars at the moment. My car (under previous ownership) had the ims done 7 years ago with an LN bearing standard installed at clutch time. 2 years later the chain guides failed. 15k repair plus new LN IMS installed Today, car is less than 2 years away from the ims service interval and has gone about 15k miles since the last one (wether you believe the service interval is a thing or not is up to you) If the car had gotten the IMS solution 7 years ago the pre qualification process would have found the cam deviation off and would have fixed the chain guides before the catastrophic failure If that was the case it would have saved the 15k repair including the new IMS and would have saved how every much money the next IMS service interval will cost in two years.... or if I choose not to do it and sell the car in a few year without it I get hear people kicking and screaming about the ims service again during a negotiation. I really feel it is helpful for re-sale as well, so even there is there appearance of losing a little on it. More people will be attracted to the car because it's a solution and went through the qualification process and people usually get that done when they "really really love their cars" Get the IMS solution.

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Hi Brian, Could you please share with us this column you speak of? If you don't want to publically mention it, please send me the link in a PM. Thank you. I've read many articles on the 996. Some will say it's the "bargain 911" and others will say it's "the worst thing to come out of Stuttgart". I always take these write-ups with a grain of salt. Please let me know. Thank you.

'99 C4 Cab with 10/98 build date. I am the 2nd owner and bought the car last July when it had 26k miles on the clock. Previous owner had reasonable service records, the PPI was clean, and there were no shiny bits in the oil filter. Less than 1% failure rate with the dual-row IMS bearings at the moment so I'm not too worried. The car has its original bearing. The clutch was changed at 20k miles so I figure I'll have the IMS Solution installed when I have to drop the engine for some other repair. In the meantime, I'll have the oil changed frequently, every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first, and keep an eye on the oil.

This guy is a real dick. Road and track is nothing but a dirty rag. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...e-collectible/

I figured you were talking about the Baruth article. If it makes you feel better - Jack's job for R&T is to poke the bear and drum up conversation to bring traffic to his website. Jack's singular opinion cannot effect the market. In the real world I get nothing but compliments for my 996. Most people are not Porsche people and are just excited to see a 911. "Porsche people" - in real life- I think are either just cool people or are much like your signature suggests. Don't get too fired up about people's opinions. If you love your car then you are the one winning, sir.

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This comment is pretty ironic, given your signature quote.

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Yup!

Any other 99s? Also, Road & Track said this in the same year ss the negative article. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/news/a27049/the-case-for-buying-a-porsche-996/

Jack Baruth is certainly entitled to his opinion but he contradicts his own article when he says � The lesson I would encourage you to ignore goes something like this: Given enough time, all Porsches will eventually become super-valuable, no matter how unwanted they are today.� We can choose to ignore it but history has proven it to be reality. He also goes on to say how an 83SC has more character then in the same article say the love for air cooled cars is nostalgia driven. Which one is it? Things he omitted: 1: A 996 is a better driving car in every way over its predecessors (air cooled nostalgia not withstanding). 2: Doesn�t mention the big repair bills associated with worn valve guides and top end rebuilds on air cooled cars nor the replacement motors numerous 991.1 GT3s needed. His article is pretty myopic to say the least.

I too would like to hear from other 99 owners.

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What is it you want to hear? Talk to the guys that have seen more 99's than any forum members you can get to chime in. LN and FSI would be the people to talk to! How much do we pay in health insurance? Ad up your car insurance that you payed over a life time...Changing the bearing just makes sense to me.

It was not my car but the 99 belonged to a neighbor. He had the belief that the 99 has the double row bearing and less susceptible to the failure, plus it has 78K miles and "if it had not happened yet then it would not happen." He asked me to do the IMSB for him since he was gonna sell it and it would be easier just to have it done. Once the bearing came out, it was wobbling and obviously just about to blow up. Both myths debunked in one shot. You have a 996? Just bite the bullet and do it.

My cabrio is a February 1998 build. When it needed a clutch at 72,000 miles I had the IMS bearing replaced with the LN ceramic bearing. The original bearing that came out looked to be in perfect condition - no play or other signs of wear. If I was to do it again, I would spring for the IMS Solution, but maybe not. The rated life of the ceramic bearing is about the same as a clutch - so in theory I will replace both again at around 140,000 miles or so. In my case had I left the original bearing in place I would have been fine, but the peace of mind was worth the $700 at the time - with a clutch replacement there is very little extra labor for the bearing. Daryll

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I totally get what your saying and I cannot disagree. A thought that comes to my mind is that they are in business to sell and make a profit. That�s okay and only fair to say that why wouldn�t they push for every year to purchase there product. I take my hat off to them for giving us the option. What I need to know is if it is truly a problem that 1999 996 owners have experienced. How many owners have had the bearing fail. How many have done the job only to find that the original part was okay. At 1% I dare say that it�s like a needle in the haystack. Possibly very rare to the point where it�s come to pass.

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I don�t know what you mean. If we were all sitting together in a room I would have no problem telling that jerk just what I think of his column. Im not hiding and yes I am a gentleman. Even gentleman have a line that shouldn�t be crossed. Enough said about this silly comment. Let it go man.

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You're not going to get a statistically valid sample from forum responses so keep that in mind when you're evaluating number of failures.

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Jake does not sell any products, he rebuilds failed motors! If you feel lucky then leave it...But, if your motors fails can you afford a rebuild? That's the question you should be asking your self .

Of course I ask myself and how can I avoid being concerned. My intention Is to change it when I need a clutch. I�m pretty easy on them. In other words I know how to shift very well. I�ve never owned a car that had a clutch failure. From what I gather in 20,000 miles I will have to do the job. We will have to wait and see.

My 99 tip with 2/98 build date had the IMSB changed by an LN authorized shop 2 years ago at 60k mi. Bearing rolled smooth with no wobble/runout/etc but oil had penetrated the bearing seals. Replaced with IMS Solution because 1) RMS also turned out to be leaking, and did the AOS at same time, so saved in labor costs vs doing them separately, 2) peace of mind, 3) easier to sell the 996 when the time comes to move on.

^ Smart move. The "Solution" will pay for it's self down the road. Brian, start UOA, change your oil every 3K miles or every 6 months, checking your filters. Check for cam deviations and just keep an eye on everything until you're ready.

I went for an elective 3.4 to 3.8 liter rebuild and when the IMS bearing was removed, it was clear that I had been living on borrowed time and could have failed any minute. I really had horseshoes working in my favor. The car had about 105000 miles on it at the time.

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Exactly, the purpose of the title of the article was to create controversy and conversation. Jack likes 996s and is maybe too good at his job for his own wellbeing.

I think any car that hits 100,000 miles should be tuned up to the max. That includes a new bearing, rms, aos. Whatever you can come up with. Fluid changes. Back in the day we were lucky if you could get 100k from a car. I also have to mention that depending on where you lived the 911 could be a real rust bucket. I owned a 74 targa from California that was perfect. Not as impressive as a 996 but it did have a rebuilt engine done by a European auto repair shop. I liked the car but it felt like a bit of a clunker to drive. The 915 transmission was tough as nails. It was a very strong car but did not even come close to the 996. The passenger door would pop open when taking hard turns. Funny part about it is I paid $10k for the car sold it for $12k. That car is probably worth $30k today. Maybe more if someone did a decent restoration to it. That was my first Porsche and I loved it. I�ve owned several. A 1991 964 which was my favorite and likely the best 911 ever built. I also owned a 993 which was in my opinion the nicest coupe I ever owned. Such a beautiful car. The front fenders were really nicely designed. Again a car that traded for half of what it was worth back when I owned it. I could keep going but I will finish with saying that of them all the 996 is a great car that was built when Porsche was really struggling and almost ready to close up. I think the 996 and 986 saved the company. Helped to make it what it is today.

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I read that article after I had purchased my car and it really made me feel like I had made a mistake buying a 996. That was probably a year ago. I have had enough time to know that he is totally wrong. Any person who doesn�t know he is tongue in cheek would think our cars are crap. If I had not already purchased my car I probably would have passed.

All good man. I don't blame you for getting fired up towards the article. Elitism annoys me too. I just wanted to put out there - that we should never lose sight of the desperation that publications are under every day to create content. If Jack wrote an article called "Hey 996s are actually alright" I guarantee you we would not still be talking about it 2 going-on 3 years later.

Just think about how many people who want to get into the Porsche circle google and that article comes up. It really makes our cars sound bad. Now for me it works because I got a mint car that was 20 years old one owner with 50k on it which means that he drove it 2500 miles which is just enough to say it didn�t just sit which would be bad. I really do love my car. If my finances allow the bearing will be done either this year or next year. It�s all about the money. I have a lot of other expenses in my life.

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It would be wise to start gathering wear trends while you wait. UOA is a tool that we all should use.

Bill can you expand on that a little? I think I get it but not completely.

You Tube Watch all his videos and learn all you can from them.

👍

You Tube

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Thats very true but given we have this special forum I like to use it to talk with other enthusiasts about our cars. I don�t really think it�s possible to get a straight number on any of the 3 types. However, knowing a man who spent his entire career working for Porsche I again had a special opportunity to discuss the 996 along with other years and the company itself. They were going under when the 996 was built. It actually saved the company. Look at it now. It�s thriving. The air cooled guys spit all over it. Every car built has a weak link. Mechanically, electrical and so on. I could have bought a Maserati last year for $18k at a dealership. The owner was pissed he bought it at auction. It had electrical issues. He figured now problem we will work that out and make a huge profit. He paid $20k for the car. It could not be driven and if I bought it I would be screwed. Just remember that the 996 and 986 saved Porsche.

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This is true, just don't forget to include the Cayenne.

They got into the suv market shortly after. I�m trying to get my wife to trade her 2017 GMC Acadia Denali for a Macon. I love that vehicle as well. In a different way than my 911. Have to P-cars in my driveway would be cool with me.

I have a '99 with dual row bearings, but the PO did all this right before I bought it ( at 98,000 miles)so I figure I am good for awhile until I need to do the Solution Client requests IMS bearing be updated with LN system Labor Service - Labor: Replace IMS bearing SM $1,680.00 New 106084 L&N dual row IMS bearing update kit 1.00 799.00 $799.00 New 99610421554 Cylinder head plug 4.00 12.43 49.72 New 99907309209 Flywheel Bolt 8.00 2.30 $18.40 New 99907345801 Pressure Plate Bolt 6.00 0.87 $5.22 New 9971012121 Rear main seal 1.00 32.21 $32.21 New 10607 LN Engineerng magnetic oil drain plug 1.00 32.00 $32.00 New POF PORSCHE OIL FILTER 1.00 22.50 $22.50 New MOTUL OIL Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40 synthetic motor oil 8.00 9.50 $76.00

I bought my 1998 in Hong Kong last year, and insta over paid to get a replacement. Everyone tried to convince me not to, the dealers, the workshop, my wife, my dad But well the reason I refused to pay more than 9000 USD for the car was the IMS panic (was afraid to get a melon full of metal) and I knew I would be sweating each time I was driving even if I was being irrational. Forked the 2000 USD, absolutely nothing wrong with the original bearing, but at least at resale I can reassure the poor sob that at least this problem will not happen, maybe

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That sounds about right. I have one quote that includes clutch along with everything else you mentioned for $5000. I do think my quote is kind of high. I am waiting to approach the mechanic again. I�d really like to be at $4000 including new job plugs and I forget right now what they call the part that goes over the plug but replace any of those that seem worned out.

It's called ignition plugs, the part that goes over the plug,

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Plugs and coil packs are an easy DIY that will save you a few bucks.

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^ THIS! Asking for opinions and sharing opinions on this is pointless. This isn�t a matter of opinion, it�s a matter of statistics. All the �you�re wrong because it happened to me� BS is based on a single data point. The real statistics may be out there somewhere. Failing that, trust the experience of people who have worked on hundreds of these cars. The experience of a single person on a single car is completely irrelevant because a) you�ll never amass a representative sample, and, b) your survey respondents are self-selected. This is a recipe for bad data and wrong conclusions. I don�t claim to know what the right answer is, but I�m pretty confident that people who claim to know what the right answer is based on their personal experience of a single car are not to be given any credence.

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They are called coil packs, Porsche calls them Ignition Coils in the parts fiche. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=901-00

An ounce of "prevention is worth it's weight in gold"!

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That’s a catchy saying that doesn’t hold up very well to scrutiny. I could ‘prevent’ measles by never leaving my house, but when you weigh the risk of measles against the cost of never going outdoors, it wouldn’t actually be a wise thing to do, would it? What is the cost of the prevention, and what is the expected value of the thing you are preventing (i.e. the cost of a repair multiplied by the probability it will be required)? Without those considerations, your quote supports the idea that I should wear a foil hat to prevent alien abduction. The cost of the preventative measure relative to the magnitude of the risk matters. Otherwise I could quickly spend every dollar I have preventing things that are extremely unlikely. Just saying. If you were being literal, then an ounce of prevention is worth about $1,530. I can’t really argue with that. 😎

I have a 99 with an early 1999 build date. Original IMSB. Uh oh. My belt just let go. It whipsawed the accordion oil filler tube nearly in half. Drove maybe 5 miles at most post-failure, but engine temp definitely went way high. It seems PorscheTech3 has always had a knack for diagnosing my car sight unseen. I will definitely heed this warning.

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One could chose to stay in the house, or (like me) get vaccinated.

I have a '99 C4 with 131,000 on the odometer. The original IMSB was replaced along with the clutch at 94,000. the old dual row looked good and showed no signs of impending doom, but the L&N dual row was installed as a just because it was accessible and the car had almost 100k. Personally, I would not sweat about a dual row (although there has been at least one reported failure with photos). I would just change it out whenever you do the clutch. I don't have a good cost on the labor because there was a general engine-out service that was addressing a lot of little things/deferred maintenance being done at the same time.

We just saw a 99 dual row fail a week or two ago. 808Bill where did you see this? Any pictures of the car and or the engine? This would be very important information to me and probably a few others. Do you know what the mileage of the car was? Was it the original bearing?

I thought it was here but may have been on one of the FB groups I belong to. Pictures, why they all look the same...I'm not going to take the time and try searching for it but you can. Have you watched all (or any) of the FSI videos I pointed you to? Best of luck!

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Yep, there is a member here with a silver 99 that he is selling as a roller. I spoke to him recently. Not 100% sure it was the IMSB that failed but the motor had some sort of failure.

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Oh so we don�t use coil packs?

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I�m looking for current car with a failure. How many miles? How was the car maintained? Driven? Etc....mentioning this is pretty important I hope we can fine the story to support it. Thanks

Brian, this is at least your second imsb thread u started in a year. Wth have u learned? Why don't u pull your bearing, inspect it for u/us and report back? If it's all good, slap it back in, leaving the seal off for lubrication and save money the for mods? Start with those plug cover things and and an intake. It really wakes em up.

^^Thus my frustration!

Full disclosure, my comments to most of Brian's posts aren't constructive, I'll admit. But it his posts that are, imo, ruining this forum. A simple google search with rennlist at the end gets 90% of what they're looking for. I know can ignore, don't click on his posts ect...but it's not as fun.

I have a '99 C2 Cab with about 82,000 miles. 12/98 build date. I've owned it about 10 years. Original IMSB.

I have a 99 C2 and has the original IMSB. right now about 93,000 miles and I removed the IMSB outer seal when I changed the clutch at about 85k miles.

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This is what I’m talking about. The car in question is being used as evidence that dual-row bearings fail regularly. Is that even what happened to this car? Was this car used in the typical fashion, or was it abused? How many other identical cars have NOT suffered a failure? Since we don’t know, it’s silly to point to this example as evidence of anything. No disrespect intended, @808Bill ; you have been very helpful to me many times, and your beliefs may well be correct, even if the data is ambiguous. The data is ambiguous, at best. That’s the only point I mean to make.

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Where did I say the car's IMSB failed? I actually mentioned it was not a proven case of a failed bearing. It's not evidence of anything other than a 99 C2 that has had it's engine fail. Cause yet to be determined.

99 C2 3/98 build Sport Package (M030, LSD) and some additional performance mods installed by Brumos Porsche when originally purchased by Michelin Research and Development as a tire testing track car. Had a full cage installed. Michelin put 42k miles on it in 14 years. My driving instructor knows one if the guys who drive the car for Michelin and he said it was driven hard. The second owner was a young guy who put about 47k on it, mostly driving between Greenville SC and Spartanburg SC for work. He said he had it up to 168 mph one time. I believe he was telling the truth. The category 1 rev counter (red line) is maxed out at a little over 3 minutes. It has just over 3 seconds of category 2 revs that occurred when Michelin had it, according to my Durametric. I have tracked it multiple times at Road Atlanta. Still has original engine and as far as I know, the original IMSB. The AOS looks old. I plan on doing the IMS Solution, AOS, clutch, RMS, and chain guides in the near future. This car would not pre-qualify and I will do the work myself. I have already gathered the specialty tools. I figure I will spend about $3000 in parts, but it will be worth it if I get additional track days out of it.

Hilarious. Not to veer this thread in an unintended direction, but why did it not pre-qualify? What are typical reasons a car fails to pre-qualify? Any estimate of total hours to punch out that list? Good luck.

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Let's set the story straight, we are not talking about the same car. The 99 that I was referring to had pictures of the failed bearing. I may have seen it on one of the 3 FB groups I frequent (not sure) and not here. I would never assume that a failed m96 automatically was an IMSB failure. There's more than one way these engines fail and I know that. The only point I want to make is, the claim of 1% failure rate is out dated and has risen and 99 dual row cars have been known to fail with 30K miles and 130K miles! I could care less at this point what Brian does, the advice and opinions have been made, Proactive replacement is cheap insurance in my opinion...Take it or leave it!

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Hilarious. The previous owner definitely had the "I am young and invincible" mindset. He purchased an Audi S6 as the replacement for the 911. He took me for a drive and we were doing 100+ on two lane back roads. It definitely made me uncomfortable. I am too old to be "invincible". Not to veer this thread in an unintended direction, but why did it not pre-qualify? What are typical reasons a car fails to pre-qualify? I looked at the criteria a long time ago, and I think the catagory 2 over-revs would disqualify it, although they were a long time ago according to the Durametric. My bank 1 cam deviation is also near the limit. Any estimate of total hours to punch out that list? Good luck. Knowing me, it will take a few weeks off and on. I am sure I will run into some discovery items and I will end up ordering parts.

I suppose if local shop rate is high enough, and you enjoy the process enough, and you're sufficiently confident of a quality outcome, why pay another guy to have sex with your girl, right? Last rebuild I did was my '67 Mustang, senior year in high school. I lived under the hood of that car. My parents made me break away and apply for college. Rebuild went fine. So did the next four years. But I wander OT...