29 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH01 996 EVAP system woes
Reported repair
Replace with part
Reported resolution
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report a fix
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported fix
Replaced with part from Pelican listed below (5 minutes to install) and problem is solved!!!!
Leading evidence: 'Replace with part' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'hard tube' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace with part' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Replace with part', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
The main problem is the hard tube that connects to the evap valve.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported cause
Well I figured the issue was stemming from my bad fuel pump, but when that got replaced the issue was still there.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Well I figured the issue was stemming from my bad fuel pump, but when that got replaced the issue was still there.
Run some brake cleaner through it while cycling it
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Pulled it and ran some brake cleaner through it while cycling it with a 9V battery.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
29 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
So I've ran some searches with people who have similar problems but not sure what the best resolve is.
Getting code P0446 Porsche Fault Code 95
2. Getting other codes that are related to a loss in vacuum. O2 sensors not able to adjust, secondary air injection, etc.
3. Followed recommended procedure to use compressed air to blow out purge air line and air line connections to the charcoal canister
4. I can get gas fine, fill all the way up.. but when I get gas the car becomes difficult to start. Cranking over for about 30 seconds with the pedal floored gets it to start.
Whats happening... I believe that there is something wrong with one of the electric valves in the evap system. When I get gas the fumes in the tank are geting sucked through the fuel EVAP regeneration valve and choking out the engine. To test and prove this theory I clamped off the rubber line from the regeneration valve to the intake. Got gas.. car started fine. Release clamp.. car dies. Turn over for 30 sec (to burn the excess fumes) car starts again.
So I'm thinking this could be either a bad vuel regeneration valve or one of the valves that controls the fumes between the gas tank and the charcoal canister is bad. Or there could be something wrong with the logic that governs the regeneration valve.
Any advice on how to further troubleshoot? Thanks!
Sounds like the valve in the engine compartment is sticking open.
The one by the filler periodically lets air into the tank to keep fuel flowing as the tank empties. The one by the throttle body allows fumes into the intake to be burned.
Also during an integrity test that is performed at least once during each run cycle the tank valve is closed, throttle valve opened to create vacuum in the recovery system to test recovery system operation.
There is also a valve just under the battery tray next to the fuel pump that controls vapor flow between the gas tank and the charcoal canister. I wasn't sure if that was the one stuck and not closing allowing tank vapors to get sucked into the intake, when only canister vapors should be removed.
Yup, I bet its the purge valve in the engine compartment. I had the same issue. Pulled it and ran some brake cleaner through it while cycling it with a 9V battery. Blow in it and if it's leaking when there isn't power to it then you found the problem. Very easy fix.
Had the same problem with my 2000 cab a few years back. Took it in to my indy and he pointed out that its the purge valve in the engine compartment, and he told me it usually happens from putting in low quality dirty gas. And coincidentally my brother had borrowed my car a week before
and was almost stalling due to running out of gas and the nearest gas station was an arco....
Imo000 is correct about the indie. Bad gas can cause premature failure of the fuel pump or clogged injectors/fuel filter, but it should not impact the EVAP system at all.
So there are several valves that people are saying to look at:
1. Primary suspect - regeneration valve in the engine compartment
2. Pressure valve on fuel tank.
3. Charcoal canister vapor valve
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...nk-components/
big red circle valve controls vapor flow between the fuel tank and the canister.
All lines have been cleared with compressed air. I'm going to try to do the test Imo has come up with the 9v battery but haven't gotten around to it.
This is why I'm asking because replacing all of these electronic valves can be $$$.
What conditions govern the regeneration valve in the engine compartment? It normally taps away opening and closing regulating the amount of vacuum on the evap system. Last time i was playing with it, it remains closed when the car is off.. and mine started putting vacuum on the evap system as soon as the engine was running. This is why I'm sort of thinking that it might be #3 above. The regeneration valve is supposed to burn the fumes trapped in the charcoal canister, but instead its pulling fumes directly from the fuel tank after fueling. Shouldnt the valve in #3 close before you get fuel to prevent tank fumes from going directly to the engine on restart?
Check your regen valve first. They are known to fail. The valve should be closed at rest and open when power is applied. If it leaks at rest, you found your problem.
FIFY
"
regulating the amount of fumes allowed into the intake."
Once again, nothing gets into the intake until #1 opens. #3 can be open all day and no fumes get to the intake unless #1 opens.
After checking all of the lines for leaks/blocks - none found.
Removed the Regeneration Valve located just above the alternator (5 minutes to remove).
Checked for operation by applying 12v across terminals - working as expected.
Tested for leaks by blowing into valve - held pressure
Tested for leaks by applying suction - would not hold vacuum!
Replaced with part from Pelican listed below (5 minutes to install) and problem is solved!!!!
996-110-129-53-M100 $247.50
***UPDATE***
Passed Illinois Emissions test today!!
The Turbo Purge looks a little different and is in a different location. Above behind the throttle body. You will need to lower the engine to get to it.
Read through this thread and look at the referenced threads it contains to get an idea of the scope of the work and location.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ion-p0446.html
Hi TCR, I see you said you changed the regeneration valve quickly? I can't even see mine lol, I can see the alternator but can't see the valve. Did you take out the air box to get it? Thanks for your help if you can, Joe NY......
I KNOW this is an old thread but I'm needing a bit of clarification, I have a Mk1 996 GT3 that has been plagued with a hot start problem for ages and I'm only now getting to deal with it. Is the engine bay much the same as any other n/a 996, I can see the evap valve but it looks pretty tricky to remove.
My thinking would be, if it can be removed without breaking plastic piping is it worth cleaning out ? I know it's a Bosch 0280.142.380 and that doesn't come with any piping. IF the piping can be reused why buy the Porsche part at 400% �$.
what would most folk do , remove , clean , test and replace, fit Bosch unit , but Porsche part?
Finally, please, does anyone have a video link showing an idiots guide to removing this valve, I'd love the satisfaction of tackling it myself but fear of failure or things breaking really put me off.
The main problem is the hard tube that connects to the evap valve. The Bosch replacement unit does not come with the hard tube, but the Porsche one does, at a premium. I have never found anyone that has been successful in getting that hard tube off without damage. Some have tried hot water soak, direct heat, pulling and so on. No go. For this one item, get the correct Porsche replacement valve with the hard tube, install and move on. There is no substitute....
Do you have install instruction on how to replace the valve? Can this be done DIY on a C4S?
Having same hot start issues, just replaced fuel pump, fuel float, Crankshaft sensor, MAF and issue still persists.
Well I figured the issue was stemming from my bad fuel pump, but when that got replaced the issue was still there.
do you have instructions on how to replace evaporate valve?
Computer was throwing codes for all things I replaced... Not holding fuel pressure, CPS code, etc.... Indy mechanic did it. Coming up empty on last part. Reading about Y connector from alternator to starter... doesn't seem like its an electrical issue though as volts aren't dropping. Porsche Beverly Hills asking for 650$ just for a 2 hour diagnosis 50/50 on them finding anything wrong. Car sat with indy for a month. Any other suggestions would be great.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...10-129-53-M100
AssumIng this is what u want to replace its in clear view on the back of the engine, top drivers side. Easy to get to and replace. There r was to test the valve in this thread by pulling a vacuum in the system.
Someone really needs to determine if u r having a fuel or electrical issue as it could be a y cable or even a lazy starter.
You need to find a better mechanic that doesn't just replace parts based on fault codes. The code just tells you where to start looking and nothing more. Find a better shop or learn how to do it yourself.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
