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YOUR RESEARCHNeed help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
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Adjust later as needed
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Suggestion · Original poster
-i have no basis for these settings, just that i'm biasing a bit for understeer right now - will adjust later as needed.
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
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Suggestion
I've been running 2 clicks off full stiff front and rear.
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
Set of roland kussmaul, -2.5/-2.3 f/r) i decided
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Suggestion
Took my car in for an alignment yesterday, after tons of research and finding what the GT3 guys do (base setting of Roland Kussmaul, -2.5/-2.3 f/r) I decided to go slightly milder than that.
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
Set rear stiffer
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Suggestion
With understeer you would like to set the rear stiffer to combat this.
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
Use nt01 tires
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Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
Set of roland kussmaul, -2.5/-2.3 f/r) i decided
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Suggestion
Took my car in for an alignment yesterday, after tons of research and finding what the GT3 guys do (base setting of Roland Kussmaul, -2.5/-2.3 f/r) I decided to go slightly milder than that.
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
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Hi All,
I had a question on baseline settings/alignment for a track car.
Car:
2003 - 996TT
Current Tires - Toyo R1R (235/315 F/R)
Suspension:
-Ohlins R&T (OTS springs and valving)
-Tarett Engineering tophats (F/R)
-Tarett extended Droplinks
Intended use:
-HPDE track vehicle (street legal). Approximately 5-7 events per year
-Canyon carving
Future tire selection:
Selected tires will be extreme performance street tires (RE-11, PSS, AD-08R, BFG Rivals) and lower level r-comps (NT-01, R888, RC-1), no slicks/hoosiers.
I believe the Ohlins R&T has 34 clicks of adjustment. Does anyone have a baseline setting for this intended use?
What about alignment settings? Tire wear is not a concern.
Right now, i'm targeting the following specs
Front:
Camber: -1.8 degrees
toe: 0
Caster: 7.5
Rear:
Camber: -2.2
Toe (in): -0.2 total degrees (0.1 each side)
Any help is greatly appreciated, especially on damper settings. Thanks.
Right now, i'm targeting
Front: 10 clicks down from full stiff
Rear: 15 clicks down from full stiff
-i have no basis for these settings, just that i'm biasing a bit for understeer right now - will adjust later as needed. That said, if anyone has some good input and data for what worked and didn't work on track, that would be good. I understand that a number of factors will come into play, including other supporting mod and driver skill/style.
Have you done any track work with the existing settings, or is this a completely new setup? If you have an indy nearby that does track setup, it might be worth spending the $200 to get a solid baseline setup. Good luck fishing for settings - sometimes folks can be a little tight with their setup, especially if it's someone you might actually find yourself driving against...
There are quite a few resources in the area.
I'm located in Orange County, so there are quite a few tuners (GMG, BBi autosport, Vision Motorsports). That said, time is quite limited in supply.
I'm actually posting this for my brother - it's his car. His time is quite limited, which is why I've been doing more research for him. I'm an old member of the Porsche community ('86 951 owner from 2005-2009), but didn't really have the funds back then to be active or really enjoy sanctioned events.
It's unfortunate that people are unwilling to share their setups. I now come from the lowly Honda s2000 community, and everyone that competes in the NASA TT-C/TT-B classes are very open with their setups. In SCCA for auto-X in STR, BSP, and BS, everyone is also equally open about their setups. The same goes for competitors in SCCA STU.
There are no secrets. It's pretty clear cut what works and doesn't work. The limiting factor then becomes your pocket's ability to pony up for Penske 8300s etc. etc. and most importantly, your skills as a driver.
Thanks, anyway. it looks like we'll have to find some time to get his car out to one of these locations to get a proper baseine setup going.
I'm not saying people won't post settings - but when I was trying to get my Boxster set up the first time for autocross, I found people to be rather tight-lipped, which I found insane. Most of the guys could beat my time if I was in a perfectly dialed-in Porsche and they were driving Buicks...
I have a 996 C2 with Ohlin R&T so I am not sure if my settings will work. So here they are
Front : Camber -2.5
toe in .2
caster 8
Shock 10 from stiffest
Rear: camber -2.5
toe in .4
Shock 7 from stiffest
Using Nt01 tires.
With understeer you would like to set the rear stiffer to combat this. Hope this helps
Anything new on alignment specs?
I also have Ohlins (Elephant/Tarrett top mounts), but wondering what people use for specs for DE's. I'm currently at -1.0 front and -1.5 rear and I'm in need of a more aggressive alignment. I only have 2 DE's on my new RE-71R's and approx. 800 miles total (200 - 250 track miles) mostly highway and my outer edges are wearing faster than rest of tire. The track is eating up my tires; I've been running at 36 psi hot.
Took my car in for an alignment yesterday, after tons of research and finding what the GT3 guys do (base setting of Roland Kussmaul, -2.5/-2.3 f/r) I decided to go slightly milder than that. I did -2.2 front and wanted -2.0 rear, but only one rear side was able to get to that, the other side would only go to -1.8. I guess I need adjustable control arms or Elephants eccentric monoballs for the control arms to get a little more rear camber.
Front tires wearing quickly on the outer edges can be car is pushing a bit and making you turn more to get through corner. maybe reduce rebound up front and increase in back to make car rotate more.