16 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTwo Piece Wheel Refinish
Leading reported evidence
Fill metal dings
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Leading evidence: 'Fill metal dings' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean surface' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
These have been repaired with a little bondo and filler/sanding primer.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a creative masking technique to keep paint out of the recesses for the screws and lug nuts.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a filler sanding primer to build up the entire rim and sanded it good to give a pretty smooth finish.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used paint thinner (mineral sprits) to clean the wheels very, very, very good...it's the key.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
When wetsanding, fully cured it will be easier to work with and turn out better.
I am refinishing my Sport Classic II wheels that I bought from a Rennlister. I decided to paint the outer lip OEM Silver and the spokes gunmetal "charcoal". The outer lips had a few dings and paint flakes after 10 years on the open road. These have been repaired with a little bondo and filler/sanding primer. The spokes are in good shape with only a few areas needing a similar repair.
Thinking ahead putting the two pieces back together. Not sure if its locktite or just years of gunk but the screws came out fine but tight the whole way out. The screws are in fine shape, and the treads in the aluminum wheel look fine too. Both screws and threads in the aluminum have a little junk on them.
Anyone have any experience with the process of putting multi-piece wheels back to together? And I know common wisdom is don’t take them apart but I really can’t see what the big deal is. But I have had a couple of bad experiences putting screws into aluminum threads...
The tool is a 12 point 8MM bit that I got at a automotive store. I have read 25 ft/lbs. The wheels are not back together just yet...taking them apart was easy.
125lb torque - not 25! I just put a coat of paint on the inside too. Gunmetal and am going to try and polish the lip before laying down a coat of clear. Tap out sounds like good advice.
125# sounds way too high for those little bolts. The bolts will be over stretched. CCW website has 32#.
My large axle nut and crank bolt are ~130# spec'd.
You have to put silicone sealant between the two pieces. I had my Work Brombachers brushed (centers) and they put silicone sealant between the pieces to ensure proper seal and no air leaks. -- at least that's what they told me.
Whoah. That torque is way too high!
I did this on my sports designs. They are made by BBS for porsche, which is I think the same as yours.
Cross torque them 25% at a time of the final torque which is 145
INCH
lbs(12.083ftlbs). Use Thread lock red.
I got the torque value from BBS. Dont ask me who my source is, but its one of the engineers.
Here's the thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/245990-sports-design-wheel-weights-updated-with-pictures.html
Thanks for your replies. I think I am done painting. I got a few drips that I must live with but overall I am very happy. Wait, I am not done painting I got some center caps to do�oh well.
I am sure when I took the wheels apart it had no silicone between the two pieces. I am sure you were told to seal the two pieces but I don�t see it.
I used a creative masking technique to keep paint out of the recesses for the screws and lug nuts. But I did get some paint on the mating services (thats a small bug in the second pic). I figure I can grind that off if the fit is too tight.
I noticed on the clear coat can that if you don�t recoat within one hour you are to wait for 7 days for the coating to cure. So I think I am done with the project until next weekend just to be safe.
Make sure and post some finished pics when they are on your car! All those angles are quite fun, huh?!? I was not bold enough to take mine apart when I painted! Make sure you are "in the know" when it comes to reassembly. Those little screws will be taking some heavy stress! I think read somewhere that the bolts are not to be reused, but I'm not 100% sure on that. A good wheel rebuilding shop should know. I would guess a thread locker/sealant might be used also.
The clear should wetsand/buff fine, but if you are using enamel I would wait 2-3 months. Enamel takes a very long time to "fully" harden (as do most finishes). When wetsanding, fully cured it will be easier to work with and turn out better.
Looking good!
Typically clear coats are finish sanded 2000 grit and then buffed. Because of the level of detail with wheels, esp. these, they are almost impossible to buff. A better approach is to sand 1000 or 1500 between coats of clear and then a final full wet coat of clear as the finish. 3 coats of clear is probably about right.
The existing coating was pretty sound so removing it to bare metal did not make sense. The new coating should stick well to a clean surface. I did sand the clear coat, you can tell when you get to the paint. I used paint thinner (mineral sprits) to clean the wheels very, very, very good...it's the key. But with this style of wheel its impossible with out a professional bead blast to get all the coating off, but I don�t think its necessary.
The outer rim of the wheel did have some chips in the coating and a few minor dings. I used a filler sanding primer to build up the entire rim and sanded it good to give a pretty smooth finish. Bondo filled the metal dings.
Only time will tell how good a job all this will produce. From what I have read hear and at Renntech it should be fine.
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