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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTrailering the 996
Leading reported evidence
Use front jack points
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
With that said, I use the front jack points with hooks and the straps criss-crossed, then use straps on the rear wheels going directly back (no criss cross) to keep the 996 on the trailer.
Leading evidence: 'Use front jack points' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend 60/40 front' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I use a steel double-axle that was custom-made for the 911 with the axles farther back than usual to account for the weight distribution of the car.
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With that said, I use the front jack points with hooks and the straps criss-crossed, then use straps on the rear wheels going directly back (no criss cross) to keep the 996 on the trailer.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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I also used wooden boards to extend ramps to help with loading and used the straps they came with.
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I used a Uhaul many times to tow my 996 to the track.
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Suggestion
I recommend those reading this thread to measure your tongue weights when choosing how to orient the car as every trailer/996/tow rig has a different spec.
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With that said, I use the front jack points with hooks and the straps criss-crossed, then use straps on the rear wheels going directly back (no criss cross) to keep the 996 on the trailer.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
With that said, I use the front jack points with hooks and the straps criss-crossed, then use straps on the rear wheels going directly back (no criss cross) to keep the 996 on the trailer.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I have purchased a MY 01 Carrera 4 Cabrio and will travel 300 miles to get it and tow it home. It has not had the IMS done and at 45K, it falls into the highest risk group if it turns out the bearing is single row and the car has been drive 3K/year since its first registration. Those seem to be the bearings that go most often; spending many months out of the year sitting in Mobil 1 with no spinning. I am towing directly to my Porsche indy who will remove the transmission, identify the bearing and replace.
I will rent a u-haul car carrier trailer and pick up for the tow. Can anyone tell me if the 996 will clear the ramps where they join the trailer when I drive it on? And, what is the best way to secure the 996 once its on the trailer. Chains and a come-along tensioner is provided, I think. Any help would be very appreciated!
Best,
Bob
It might be easiest to buy the lug-nut tie down rings that you can hook into on each wheel - it's not how I do it but it's an option. With that said, I use the front jack points with hooks and the straps criss-crossed, then use straps on the rear wheels going directly back (no criss cross) to keep the 996 on the trailer. My longest tow was 750 miles each direction and the car never budged. I like not attaching to the front wheels so the steering gear and suspension doesn't get jacked around.
I use all 4 jack points- all of them have opening in the middle that tie-down straps will lock in to. I cross the straps as well. Engage the parking brake but leave the car OUT OF GEAR as to not put any load on the transmission, engine, and flywheel.
I doubt you will clear the ramps- my 944 wouldn't clear uhaul ramps. Even with my own trailer now, I have to use long wooden boards to get it up without scraping. Seriously, take everything including the spare tire out of the frunk.
You might as well go ahead and invest in some good tie-downs with ratchets and some race ramps for a trailer.
I have used a uhaul trailer many times. It will come with a strap that "cradles" the front wheels and a chain on the rear as a safety feature to keep the car from moving forward if the tow vehicle hits something. I have towed vehicles thousands of miles with these trailers....you don't need any extra straps unless you want to add a couple.
Depending on how low your 996 is, adding some wood under the ramps can help. Also, taking advantage of any natural inclines helps as well.
"other than the fact I discovered the Autoride self leveling shocks no longer work on the Yukon..."
Oops...! Oh well, whenever there's a Porsche involved it's gonna cost you !
Definitely put the engine forward. You want the weight close to the tow vehicle, not far away. When it's far away, the trailer will have a tendency to sway. I had no problems keeping the trailer straight and true.
I didn't measure, but I believe tongue weight was within spec. I know total trailer weight was fine. Might have been more level if I had flipped the mount over to be a rise rather than a drop.
The next spring when I crawled under the Yukon to see what was wrong, I discovered the compressor for the shocks had rusted so bad I could see inside it!
"Definitely put the engine forward. You want the weight close to the tow vehicle, not far away."
No, you want the (majority of the) weight to be as close to the center of the trailer (over the wheels) as possible... Also, if at all possible use a "3 point" tortion bar type hitch - no sway at all, much safer and more comfortable tow.
Check this out at 1:47 in... Phwew !!!
https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...t=mozilla&tt=b
Afraid to drive 300 miles? Somebody has spent too much time on this forum.......
You will most likely need wood to build up in front of the trailer ramps, a few 2x4s should do. The U-Haul straps go over the front wheels, with the small amount of space between the tire the wheel well I would not rely on these working.
I have a similar era suburban and it doesn't have autoride, but sags badly. I use a steel double-axle that was custom-made for the 911 with the axles farther back than usual to account for the weight distribution of the car. There really isn't that much tongue weight and the rear is still low. All those autoride systems were really crappy, apparently. I want to get some helper springs or something. I put in new rear shocks and it actually made it worse; I guess the 223k mile originals still had their gas charge. Due to the long wheelbase of the suburban, trailer stability isn't an issue. I've towed this rig from Florida to Nebraska and back, and from FL to NC a couple times.
Both Uhaul and GMC recommend 60/40 front to rear. 911's are roughly 40/60 front to rear.
http://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/26/Towing-Tips
(4th bullet point)
http://www.gmc.com/content/dam/GMC/g...wing-guide.pdf
(page 11, paragraph 2)
If you have a custom trailer like knfeparty with the axles set back, then I can see putting the 911 forwards facing.
My Autoride worked great until the the compressor rusted through. I thought all those trucks had the self leveling rear, but the ones with Autoride added the fancy shocks upfront also? Also, I assume your new shocks aren't OEM? I think for those trucks the spring rates are very soft, because they are meant to be used with the fancy OEM shocks.
You say this with such certainty... have you towed a 996 often? I recommend those reading this thread to measure your tongue weights when choosing how to orient the car as every trailer/996/tow rig has a different spec. I tow a 996 several thousand miles per year on an open trailer and wouldn't load it butt first.
Correct. Assuming you don't have a trailer with the axles set way back, backwards is the way to go. The average trailer is setup for the average front engine car.
Found this pic on Rennlist from Palting
Just because a bunch of guys are doing it ^that way^ doesn't make it right. Obviously, depending on how the trailer is set up, it may be difficult to get a pefectly balanced/neutral set up. 60% tongue 40% rear is certainly reasonable and perhaps ideal if you don't have a torsion hitch set up (which keeps down-force on the tongue by itself) I would go closer to 50/50 if possible. Either way, best of luck with your trailering adventures!
There's like, math, you can do to determine the correct load height and positioning. Inputs include the trailer weight, the car weight, the tow vehicle weight, the hitch height, the type of hitch and the type of brakes. Like almost everything in life it depends.
I used a Uhaul many times to tow my 996 to the track. I used to remove the front plates on the trailer to allow my car to clear the front of the trailer to get more tongue weight for long tows. But uhaul was good. I also used wooden boards to extend ramps to help with loading and used the straps they came with. In hindsight now i'd use a tie down strap as a backup through the tow hook on the front of the car. It's easy to install
That is absurd. The car has made it 45,000 miles and you are afraid to drive it 300 miles. Instead you will load it on a POS U-Haul trailer and tow it?
Just drive it.... it's a c a r
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