34 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEngine Case Flaking - Is this a problem?
Leading reported evidence
Clean last step they did in theis work
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Suggestion
Was cleaning the last step they did in theis work?
Leading evidence: 'Clean last step they did in theis work' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean last step they did in theis work' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
He thinks the cleaning process may have exposed it after all the work was completed.
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Suggestion
The cleaning could find a weakness in the casting -- most likely where the casting had been repaired before -- and open up a new path for a possible leak to develop over time.
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Suggestion
If you're offended for being called a redneck because you use JB Weld on an engine case, you're in denial.
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Suggestion
The cleaning could find a weakness in the casting -- most likely where the casting had been repaired before -- and open up a new path for a possible leak to develop over time.
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34 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I just got my engine cases back from the machine shop where they were sleeved. The sleeve job looks great, but I noticed some aluminum flaking inside the case. Does any one know if this is an issue?
That case appears to have been porous and repaired at the factory. The machine shop should have consulted with you about this. I'd hope they know what this means.
I didn't talk to the shop yet and didn't notice it when I left the shop as the 2 case halves were joined and wrapped...r the shop told me that they boiled the cases to clean them up, but that obviously wouldn't do it...it does like a die grinder was involved though.
Yes, the oil side of the water jacket wall. If (big if) there is porosity or porosity develops coolant could leak into the oil and possibly into one or more of the engine case stud holes.
Now I'm not saying porosity would develop. Based on my exposure to (non Porsche engine) castings it would not surprise me if a few engine castings come from the factory with some porosity (or suspected) porosity addressed. It has been my observation in a foundry there is at least one welder who's job it is to weld up castings that would otherwise be scraped due to casting porosity.
Generally if the engine was porosity free before it was disassembled and cleaned up it should remain porosity free afterwards.
Maybe.
The cleaning could find a weakness in the casting -- most likely where the casting had been repaired before -- and open up a new path for a possible leak to develop over time.
However, even the small risk of a leak developing at this critical point warrants I think a real need to get this addressed properly so there is no chance of any porosity to develop and allowing the coolant to go anywhere outside of the the cooling passages.
JR is right. The shop should know what to do about this. And you should ask the shop.
I spoke with my machine shop and he concurred with JR and Macster in regard to a possible repair at the factory...He said he didn't notice it at all when he was working on it and was surprised to see it because this is something he would have taken care of had he seen it. He thinks the cleaning process may have exposed it after all the work was completed.
He didn't think it was a big deal because both sides of the wall touch oil so porosity would not be an issue, and the fix is to just smooth it out to remove any possibility of it flaking a little more and possibly contaminating the oil in the future.... He said he can use something like JB Weld if I insisted, but he thought it wasn't necessary...
lol...In my haste, I think I paraphrased it incorrectly...I asked if epoxy was necessary to smooth it out, and he said no...but if it made me feel better he could add a very thin layer of the stuff. I think he was just trying to appease me.
If I may ask how much you paid for this and where?
I’d personally feel better about some sort of coating or otherwise repair. I’m not sure if it’s necessary though.
Ahmet, I really wanted to get Nickies but would have blown my budget big time. I selected sleeves from LA Sleeve instead. I will send you a pm with total cost a little later.
Wait. My bad.
The pics are looking at the crank side of the block half not the head side.The space around the cylinder liner will not contain coolant but is just exposed to oil splash.
IOWs, the pic shows the bottom of the cylinders that extend into the crankcase.
At first I thought the view was looking down at the cylinder block from the head's point of view but I know now that I was wrong.
On the other side of the wall where the blemish is is just more crankcase space. There is no pressure and any oil that managed to pass through the wall would just find itself still inside the crankcase.
Now the one pic shows the blemish to be adjacent to a hole through which a case stud passes. This could be a leak onto that hole but I'm not sure of the ramifications.
Ask the shop what if any ramifications there would be with (possibly) porosity at these locations.
I apologize for raising what I think now is a false alarm.
Macster, you have nothing to apologize for...I should have taken better pictures. I have been enjoying your posts for about 6 months now and I know for a fact you know this stuff inside and out. As this is my very first 996 engine rebuild, I appreciate your input. If it wouldn't be for this forum and advise from people like you, I would not have taken on this project.
If you're offended for being called a redneck because you use JB Weld on an engine case, you're in denial. Half of America's small-farm tractors are powered by JB Weld.
JB Steel Stik is one of the awesomest inventions known to man.
I didn't see the big deal and I'm about as South as you can get. Not sure the disclaimer helps. You may want to add it to you sig.
About the OP's case. In the pics it looks like the flaking, chipping, whatever is in several places. I can see how this would be an issue. Is this case salvageable?
Oh, don't get me wrong. I wasn't offended by the comment about the south. Mississippi would be a HARD place to live with skin that thin!
The "no offense" thing is just a bit of a pet peeve of mine. (Probably one of many if you ask my wife!)
It's all good Alpine!
+996
That and if I'm doing any light work not involving cars, like around the house Sugru is awesome too, along the same lines as duct tape in terms of flexibility.
http://sugru.com/
The self-curing silicone tape is a new favorite of mine. If you need to make plastic parts for non-high-temp applications, this stuff is the bomb:
Amazon.com: InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz
Amazon.com: InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz
Hint: Spray the smallest amount of cooking spray into a microwave-safe bowl, and then try to wipe it all out with a paper towel. Dump however much plastic you need into the bowl, nuke for 30 seconds, and mold your part. Don't burn your fingers...**** gets hot and conducts heat like mad.
Was cleaning the last step they did in theis work? Shouldn't it be the first thing to do? Cleaning or not, unless there is a heavy deposit of sludge in the block, a basic QC check before starting any work would have picked up this issue. Don't recomend them anything or else if something goes wrong, it will be your fault. Have them put it in writing that they don't beleive this will be an issue. I know this isn't worth much but at least it's in writing.
Just for the education of those of us who haven't seen the internal passages/chambers of the engine:
Is there a place inside the engine where oil can be present and flakes of metal coming off in there won't present an issue?
To my uninformed mind that sounds ludicrous!
No, ofcourse not. As mentioned in a previous post, the fix is to smooth it out - which implies to take all the loose flakes off to a point where the top layer of the metal (for lack of a better explanation) is not loosely attached, and will no longer flake off...
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
