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YOUR RESEARCHPPI Question
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cat
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I actually had the Porsche tech at a local dealer tell me the problem was a rattle from the tip when I suggested it was the cat.
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I actually had the Porsche tech at a local dealer tell me the problem was a rattle from the tip when I suggested it was the cat.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
done 6 months earlier.) They eventually replaced the second cat.
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42 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Well, I think I found my car
. The car is down in TX and I got a very good price on it. I called in yesterday, and the car was actually already at Park Place Porsche & Bentley, in the Dallas, TX area (anyone know how good they are) getting a PPI. The guy that got the PPI was interested in the car, but could not get financing and was told the car would not be held until they could secure financing. They couldn't, and I could. I do not have that PPI in hand, but was read most of it and given a number to someone at the dealership to call and ask about the PPI. Everything seems to check out.
My question, is there any reason this PPI would not be sufficient? I worry a bit that maybe this dealer does a lot of work with the dealership, but at the same time I feel like if a dealership didn't perform a PPI up to par, it would come back on them. I am still trying to get through to the person at the dealership to request a copy of this PPI, but should I have an indy perform one as well, or is that overkill?
I think I would want to know a little bit more about the PPI before I made the final decision. It sounds like the other guy paid for it, and so technically the dealership doesn't have to release any information to you. I would think the current owner would also get a copy of the PPI, and perhaps they can provide you with the information. Is this a private seller or is it being sold through the dealer?
I would want to see exactly what the PPI includes. I think some are more thorough than others. I would expect a good one to cost $250 - $300. If you are able to get the details, and you feel that this PPI was indeed thorough, then it should be fine.
Good luck - I hope it works out for you. It is exciting to finally find a good car after searching. Any other details on the car that you can share? Any pics?
The car is from a dealer down in Dallas that seems to deal primarily with porsches and other higher end cars. So they have one copy of the PPI, and I guess the guy that was looking at it has the other. He gave me a direct line to a contact at the dealership that did the PPI, so I'm going to ask if I can get a written copy from them. When I call, are there specifics I should ask about regarding what was looked at?
I'm keeping details to a minimum until it's 100% completed, but a deposit is down. Im working on a flight and figuring out time off work prob middle of next week. It's an 02 cab with pretty much every option except hardtop with slightly under 40k miles. More details will be revealed as I finalize the flight, and figure out this PPI thing
Before spending any money, get a hardcopy for yourself [which it sounds like you are trying to do]; free or paid for. Verbal conversations mean
diddly-squat
, especially when flying cross country and spending several thousand dollars. The sellers do not have your best interests at heart.
Make sure you get a readout of the DME for over revs in range 1 and 2. Range 1 over revs are not much of a concern because they occur when you hit the rev limiter. Range 2 over revs usually occur in a missed down shift and can do damage.
I live just north of Dallas. Let me know if there is anything I can do to assist.
When I bought my MY99 from a private seller, another interested buyer asked and paid for a PPI, but didn't do the deal. The seller faxed me the actual bill for the PPI(from a Porsche dealer in Conn.) and it contained each item that the technician thought needed attention ie,a broken hinge on the center console, indicated tire wear, brake pad life remaining etc. Be sure to get the actual PPI/report performed...then check back on Rennlist and share the info for opinions. GL
Aside from the PPI, are service records available for the vehicle? In the 40K miles range, it would be nice to see if the brakes have been replaced, the clutch, etc.
Okay I just got through to the dealership that did the PPI. There were two major discrepancies bw what the sales guy said and what the dealership said:
Slight RMS Leak - I asked specifically about this and the seller said no
Clutch is Hard - same story
Other problems:
Needs front pads - Seller is doing
Minor trim issues
Driver seat switch cover is missing (covers seat adjustment buttons)
Rear exhaust tip is broken and rattles slightly
The minor ones don't bother me much since it is a used car. The first two do, since the seller didn't mention these. How would you approach?
Here is the car:
http://www.monroemotorcars.com/cgi-b...1576&d_id=1100
Basic specs:
02 White/Natural 6spd
39250 miles
Full Leather
Bose
Tecknic
PSM
Heated/Power seats
(basically everything but hardtop)
The dealership quoted about $2k for parts/labor for RMS and Clutch at the same time. (Does that sound right)? Is the RMS an issue once it's fixed, or is it fine once it's replaced? I was thinking of saying to take another $1k off (go 50/50) bc of these two necessary (and omitted) issues.
What do you think?
They did not do the overrevs b/c they only do that if it's specifically requested, and the guy didnt ask
edit: fwiw, it was a CPO car when it was sold to the last owner in 06. The seller sent me the CPO paperwork from back then
Beautiful car. I love the natural interior.
I had the RMS and the intermediate shaft seal done on mine at the dealer for roughly $1,380. So, IMHO, adding the clutch at $2,000 seems pretty reasonable (from a dealer). I'd ask them to cover it, or at the very least to split it with you.
Hi Scott,
I guess our meet and chat on Sunday put you over the edge.
Having the brake pads, clutch and RMS replaced would be a good move. You just want to fly down and drive the car back and not worry about maintainance for a while.
Congrats!
Okay I'll see how much they're willing to do, and maybe if they can even get it done in the next few days before I pick it up. Otherwise, I will take the money off and get it done at a guy up here.
Chao,
It really opened my eyes to look farther and I immediately found a few nice ones. I saw the combo on this one and loved it, and price wise it def beats up here by a good amount of $$. I'll see how much I can get them to cover and update the thread
Okay - Update:
I got through to the guy at Monroe (seller).
They are replacing the RMS, Clutch and Front Pads today. I thought they only said front pads. They have their own shop, so they are doing the work. I know it may be extreme, but I shouldn't have to worry about them not actually doing the work, right? Obviously if something came up in the near future I would have the receipt saying the work was done, and it's prob a little overly paranoid, but I want a second opinion.
So basically that will all be taken care of today and good to go by the time I would pick up the car
and completely off topic - it just started snowing in CT - the southern coastal area, not the northern mountainous area. wtf.
I would be very wary. You are buying out of state not down the street. Tell them you would like to see the old parts that were swapped out and delivery receipts for the new parts. After all its worth $2K.
FWIW, you can always spend a few extra dollars and get your own PPI done. The Ruf guys do a good job, can do a leak down test, check the paint all over for respray, etc etc. I would guess they could get it done for you today or tomorrow. Peace of mind and all that.
As for Park Place, that's where I bought my car years ago. They have an army of dealerships (Porsche, Bentley, Benz, etc). They are not a bad lot to buy a car from, but I do not use them for service any longer.
Nice car combo! Good luck!
-td
Where is Ruf located? Maybe I'll let these guys replace these pieces and then have it rechecked by Ruf before I go down. I'm looking to fly down next wed
+1 on RUF, great bunch of guys... I only bring my car to them for check-up and any service needed. They have an awesome facility with new equipments for street and race setup. They are located in Carolton TX just north of Dallas. OP, beautiful car you found there, Good-luck with the PPI. Cheers.
Thanks so far for all the advice guys.
Question regarding a RMS leak - is it easily visible from under the car or is some work required to see if its leaking? I havent really read a ton into it, but from what I gather it's basically a slow oil leak, right? Does it lead to permanent engine damage, or is it more an annoying but not-so-harmful leak? I obviously plan to get it corrected either way, just looking for some short and sweet background info
Have a look here for more detail...
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6470
Renntech has a good article about this from Excellence Magazine in 2005.
Awesome thanks again everyone! Everything is looking great. Their reputation is stellar from what I've found as well. Now I just need to figure out the flight and the best route home. Anyone drive from the Texas area to the Northeast and want to recommend a route? I have to end up in Baltimore to visit the sis.
I like the middle route (Dallas, Little Rock, Memphis, Nashville, DC) [I30, I40, I81]. The major cities are better timed for my stops and I didn't hit any rush hours leaving at 8:00 AM from Dallas.
If you like to sight see, you can take the high route through St. Louis. There's not much to see on the middle route, or the low route (through Mississippi, Alabama and Georgia) except for Graceland - but try to go there in the day. It's kinda in the ghetto...
The DFW crew can show you some hospitality when you're here, so let us know when you're arriving!
-td
Hey thanks! The middle route is what I came across first, and I think it's the shortest. I was thinking that way at first. I also thought of possibly going lower, through like atlanta, then up. The other one I thought up would be up toward Ohio and Kentucky. Ive driven from CT to KY before, so I didnt really want to do the same path.
Right now it looks like I may get into Dallas mid day or early evening on Wed. I wish I had more time to sight see, but I want to see my sis (in MD) most likely for Fri night and I think I have my cousins bachelor party that saturday in Atlantic City, NJ, so those limit my free time. If the party changes, I'll have an extra day and probably hang out. I was torn between leaving that night, doing a few hours and stopping, or laying local and getting up early and out Thurs morning. I figure I can get from TX to MD in two full days or easily 2.5 if I leave Wed night.
As for stop overs, anywhere better or worse? If I go middle it looks like Little Rock might be a stop point, or possibly Memphis. I havent looked into the rest in detail yet
Get the PPI from Ruf to include reading the DME and checking the other dealer's work. No matter how cooperative they seem over the phone you will benefit from having as many objective eyes on the car as possible.
BTW, that "exhaust tip rattle" is exactly what a bad catalytic converter sounds like.
This is not a cheap fix! I've had a dealer tell me the exhaust tip was the problem both times I heard this sound. They were both (thankfully) done under warranty for what would have been $1800 each.
Tim,
Thanks for the info! I spoke with the seller again tonight and they had no problem providing me with all the invoices, etc for the work theyre doing. I didnt even think of that for the exhaust rattle. You don't think a dealer tech would know the difference? Im going to call the dealer again tomorrow bc I realized I forgot to ask if the other guy asked for a leakdown/compression or not. I'll give ruf a call too and see what their schedule is like.
I dont have the sheet infront of me, but I think the person at the dealership said there was a slight crack on the exhaust tip causing the rattle. Again this is off the top of my head, and my brain is about ready to check out for the night. Ill verify in the morning and update with what I hear
edit: BTW I should be in your neck of the woods Friday evening. I'll be in the baltimore area for the night.
I actually had the Porsche tech at a local dealer tell me the problem was a rattle from the tip when I suggested it was the cat. (I had already had the first cat. done 6 months earlier.) They eventually replaced the second cat.
Good luck in any event!
On this note, be sure to check your in-service date (a 2002 car might have actually been a late 2001). The reason this is important is that cats are covered for 8 years from in-service date. So you might have a few more months up to a year or more on yours.
-td
Okay thanks guys.
These are the first two things from carfax, does that answer anything on the in-service date?:
01/31/2002 Dealer Inventory Vehicle sold
02/04/2002 34 Georgia
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Fayetteville, GA
Title #7964020528112 Title issued or updated
Registration issued or renewed
First owner reported
Registered as
personal vehicle
Loan or lien reported
Registered as lease vehicle
Build date is 12/01.
Does this mean Porsche will cover parts and labor if it goes before one of these dates?
Hmm. I think 12/01 at the earliest. 2/4/2002 would be my guess though. I would ask whoever you talk to next (Park Place or Ruf). They'll let you know which one.
-td
So I just spoke with Hans at Ruf. He quoted $500 for PPI w 100 pt inspection, compression, leakdown and ecu readout. Does that sound right? Seems high to me, but I could be wrong.
Also, I mentioned that Monroe Motorcars was getting the clutch, rms and brakes done. When I asked them that, they made it sound like they were doing the work. They apparently dont have service bays. They did say they would provide me with receipts and invoices for work and parts, so I'm a little confused. Going to try to figure that out now.
update: Theyre doing the work now on the car. Should be going to Ruf on Sat for a full PPI w ecu readout, class I and II overrevs, leakdown and compression. Anything im missing? Im going to have them double check the rms, brakes and clutch, as well as dbl check the rattle to see if it's the cat failing.
Im getting excited
I think you should still ask for a Rennfax. Someone can swing by to the shop work is being done on the car and see that the work is actually being done.
Edit: Also make sure you get an oil change.
IIRC, the normal ("quick and dirty") PPI doesn't include the leakdown and compression - adding them on is another hour or two labor, which is probably why your price may seem on the high side. Others may chime in, but it seems that $500 is about right for a soup-to-nuts inspection.
If you called park place, I would guess a standard PPI is around $300 without leakdown.
-td
An extra few hundred dollars for that piece of mind? I think its worth it. Plus the seller may find out that the car is going in for a "complete PPI" and that will deter them from playing cute.
