Sealant/Wax Showdown: Rejex, Klasse, Ultima, Zaino, Zymol, Swissvax, Meguiar's, etc.

About a month ago I took my car to get a full exterior detail (clay, polish, & wax), but took a bottle of Rejex & had them use that instead of their product. When I went to pick it up I was seriously amazed at the shine & how smooth it felt. BUT, after a couple days that initial "wet look" wore off. So, I washed it really good & applied another coat myself. Again, initially it looked incredible, better than the first coat infact. But after about 4 days that wet look & slippery buttery feel wore off. With the Rejex, my car is so much easier to wash & it still beads pretty nice, so I know it's "there," but what I really want is the "wet look" so Rejex kind of has me disappointed now... I want my car to shine like crazy. I mean, it IS Cobalt Blue Metallic! It deserves to be shown off, lol. So I decided to do this thread so we can all discuss the products we've used. Carnaubas, polymers, teflons, etc. are all welcome. I want to know how they compare in durability, shine, depth, ease of use, etc. I know a lot of guys swear by Rejex, or by Ultima, or whatever other brand. So I want to know why. Wether positive or negative, lets share it all. Also, if any of you have tried using a carnauba on top of a sealant, share your results. Pictures are very welcome! By the way, please don't tell me to do a search as this has been discussed before... I already did, & there's threads comparing 2 main competitors such as "Rejex vs. Klasse" or "Zymol vs. Swissvax." What I want is a very broad comparison of all products & knew methods such as using a carnauba on top of a sealant, mixing of products, or whatever else has worked for you guys. Thanks in advance.

Sounds like a fun thread. My limited experience: Tried a few basic waxes, then went to one of the higher end Swissvax options. Did a RO polish first [Menzerna Final Finish PO85RD], then a hand applied wax. Looked pretty good. Waxed again in a few weeks. . . . At the third application, it seemed to "pop." Without any prompting, I had comments from both the dealer and my wife at the gloss. It is still pretty amazing after the winter, but will repolish and start over soon. [PS: I also have a metallic paint; Orient Red]

I have found that using a qwik detailer (Mcguirs ultimate) pulls the shine out after the original wax dulls.

Raphael, I think you should make you car the "ultimate test" subject for the products. I am thinking that you could test 9 different products. Hood - 2 products Rejex on one side and xxx on the other side Front Fenders - 2 products, one on each fender Doors - 2 products, one on each door Rear quarter panels - 2 products, one on each panel. Top - 1 product Leave the front a rear bumper covers in Rejex because they would be hard to document and show different shine characteristics. The doors may end up the same was since they have limiter horizontal surfaces.

I agree with raphael. Rejex doesn't offer the depth of shine that a good carnauba wax does. I've been using it on my truck (daily driver that sits outside) because it lasts a long time. I'm going to start using it on my other cars (except the 911) because I don't like waxing frequently.

I use the Ultima product, but mainly because it's quick to apply and lasts a pretty long time. But I'm not sure how it compares to "depth of shine" or maintaining the "wet look"... I think it's pretty good, but I have nothing to compare it to. Also, I find that within a few days of washing my car, it starts to get dusty and/or gets rained on (it's a daily driver, after all). So, it's hard to say how the "shine" holds up. But I will say, and this probably goes for a lot of the brands/methods, when you use good products, re-washing and maintaining a sharp looking car is much easier.

Something you may be missing here...is that proper prep work for a detail is what will get you most of your look. Last step products should have very little impact on the look. They may boost gloss ever soo slightly but the look should really come from perfectly polished paint and not what product you're using. If you're getting drastically improved looks it's the products covering up problems which quickly reappear since they're not being fixed I won't argue that some products have different characteristics to their look, but the look really shouldn't be lacking that quickly with properly polished paint. While I've never been a huge caranuba paste user I periodically use Pinnacle Soveran on my Guards red car to tame down the look of the sealant (zaino) I use under it. The Zaino is always my base because of it's longevity of protection. The Pinnacle makes the look somewhat deeper and less reflective which I prefer on medium and darker cars. I've been messing around with a tub of DoDo Juice Supernatural as of late as well. I may be switching to it over the Pinnacle for my paste of choice but I still have some further evaluations to do with it prior to making that decision. Again, none of the mentioned products look worth a darn to me if I havn't first spent hours polishing the paint to the desired look. Andy

I have been using Rejex on all my cars for about 5 years now, and continue to have great results. I apply 2 coats of Rejex about every 6 months, which seems to keep the car nice and slippery. Part of the process of applying a good Rejex coat is making sure that the body surface temperature of the car is less than 85 degreed F, and that the fresh rejex coat is allowed to cure in the shade (garage) for at least 12 hours (overnight). I find Rejex to be very practical in that by applying it on the wheels, it keep the brake dust adhesion to a minimum, and on the windshield to keep bug splats to a minimum as well.

zaino is it for me.

Like what Andy said, I’ve used synthetic sealants, topped off by Carnaubas for the warmer, wetter look on dark colors cars. The Carnaubas, especially the liquids, simply aren’t as durable. The most durable Carnauba wax I used was a paste, Blitz 1Grand. Easy on and off, and durability was better than most liquids. Just this weekend with the White, I polished and sealed [PC7424 Yellows/Greys] with Poor Boys products with great optics and protection.

if you want to preserve the just waxed appearance long beyond the few days you mentioned, I would suggest waiting a day after waxing and then applying a polymer spray with anti-static properties. I use FK1 #425 for this religiously. But I think Chemical Guys make one as well. 425 is pretty well known at this point, its not a gloss enhancer, more like a teflon coating that cuts down on dust that starts to hide the shine. I use it on glass, wheels, dash. I alwasy keep a couple of gallons in the garage. Their F1000P high temp wax is pretty good too. It lasts an ice age so I use it as a sealant even though its just an acrylic base wax. If you call in the order you can request free samples. But the 425 has to be the Last Step Product to get the extended "wet look" benefit. I don't have a favorite in terms of a wax. I've tried everything. It takes a very experienced and well trained eye to tell brand A from brand B. The ingredients in nearly all the brands are identical. The biggest difference is mostly price and durability. But durablity is really only an issue if you never clean your car which obviously isn't the case for an enthusiast owned car. 98% of your above average shine comes from proper claying and washing and not the wax. You're better off spending the money on high grade towels than expensive 12 step waxes.

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Teflon? How does it stick to the paint?

+1 for Blitz 1grand ezon/ez off found the trick is to let it haze over thoroughly.

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^^^Exactly! That's what I believe. I've used lots of products over the years, hoping to find the ultimate product. There is really no one ultimate product, especially when it comes to durability. I haven't come across one that will stand up against the weather for long. Most of the time, car owners do not know how to do the job right and don't achieve the desired results. They then go in search for a better product, often times thinking pricier is better, or new & improved must be good. And the search goes on and on....(I've done that) So don't be tempted to spend more on a product when you can achieve the same results with one that costs much less.

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I definitely agree with this. Waxes (synthetic or natural) will just seal in the imperfections. That being said, I use the Mezerna products IP, FP and finish with FMJ. I have a silver car, so the sealant doesn't matter that much (i.e. the warmth of the carnubas vs the clinical shine of the synthetics). I find the FMJ is pretty durable and I can stretch out the waxing intervals with the Mezerna Acrylic shield. Also, don't forget the clay part of the prep--this makes such a big difference.

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I don't know...its some kind of proprietary thing. Spray on, buff out and when you run your finger tips over it has a really freaky 'non-stick' super slick quality about it. Kinda a dewey really... I use it on my flat panel, helmet, winshield, dash.

Ultima - easiest to apply - lasts 6 mths - results more than met my expectations Home iMovie video of application on 986: (QuickTime) http://www.dodkin.com/iMovies/Ultima-PGP.mov Home iMovie video of water beading on Ultima: (QuickTime) http://www.dodkin.com/iMovies/Ultima-water-1.mov The Ultima Paint Prep Plus polish is also easy to use, a single stage polish that goes from swirls to smooth, and contains a prep product for the final sealant product. I use with a porter cable and a Sonus Swirlbuster pad - easy and quick (compared to many muti-product polish systems) Prep is key - wash, dry, clay, paint prep, sealant - re-apply for a longer lasting finish.

Thanks Andy, I agree completely that prep is the most important part. But if you read my post it says the Rejex was applied after having a pro do a wash, clay, swirl/scratch removal & final polish. Actually I saw the car before they applied the Rejex, & it was already a million times better than it was before the detail, but after they applied the Rejex, it went from being a million times better to about a billion times, lol. Unfortunately that "wet look" went away after a couple days, although my paint is still in superb condition, so what I'm trying to find, is which sealant or wax will give the best gloss & durability on an already perfectly prepped surface. Oh, & Cdodkin: That is by far the best looking black car I've ever seen. I think I might have to give Ultima a try. I've been thinking about buying this kit: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ult-1200.html ... Would you recommend it? Is that polisher & are those products good? Also, what kind of polish would you recommend? Should I order the Sonus SFX 1, 2, & 3?? What other products would I need besides what's in the kit so I can get a finish like yours?? & does the Ultima cleaning gel REALLY do the same thing as a clay? Or should I buy a clay as well? ... Sorry for all the noob questions, I mean I always wash & wax my own cars, but take them to a detailer for claying & polishing as I've always been scared of ruining it. But now I want to give it a try myself, since I'm a perfectionest & am never satisfied unless I do things myself.

I was just at our local PCA 2nd Saturday breakfast, and another 996 parked right next to mine. The difference in the shine was very noticable, and I had just waxed mine with a good carnauba wax. His 996 looked far better than mine. The difference was in the depth of the shine, as well as the very minor scratches that show up in dark colored paint. The owner of this car told me that his secret was Griot's Garage products. I have also seen Meguiar's products used with success, and I think I may try them on the 996 first. They are all applied by hand, vs. the Griot's Garage products that are desigened to be applied with power. They have a product called ScratchX that is designed to take out minor surface scratches. The idea is that you use this first, followed by their Deep Crystal Polish product, and then finally wax the car with carnauba wax. It is a tedious 3-step process, but the results are supposed to be quite good. I think I'll try it this weekend.

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I'd stay way from the elastomer sponge that's supposed to replace clay... I find it scratches the paint far more than clay.

Cdodkin, those are some shiny cars. Nice. My upcoming weekend project ingredients... Looking forward to seeing how pretty I can get the car. Dish soap and water to remove previous wax. Clay using detail spray with it. Menzerna Power Finish (polish) Chemical Guys' Jetseal 109 Rubbish Boy's Original Edition For the convertable top, I used Raggtopp and it worked great! I recently tried Majestic Solutions Ultra Gloss car shampoo and was amazed at how good of a car wash it is. The best car wash I've used thus far. Dave

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I'm an idiot then...I completely missed that. You have a blessing and a curse in that you can see stuff Like I do then and will nitpick each product and the small differences between them. If you don't mind the sealant look Zaino is still king in my book when it comes to durability. 3 solid coats and you're good for months. Pinnacle Souveran is the wettest, deepest wax I've used and outstanding for dark colors...but durability is horrible. I like the Dodo Juice Supernatural better as a paste for it's durability but it's a bit more shiny than the Pinnacle hence it lacks the warmth. Or...dare I suggest Optimum car wax (spray) after each wash. It's an outstanding booster and easy to apply to get that just detailed look. Andy

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That kit is very comprehensive and has everything you are likely to need. (Apart from some clay) You'd only use the SFX polish if you had a more serious defect in the paint that needed to be polished out - the Paint Prep Plus will do a great job in combination with the swirlbuster pad on light scratches and swirls. I don't use the elastafoam pad - I find clay does the job with less chance of marring the surface. Mothers or Clay Magic from Pep Boys works wonders! The shampoo from Ultima is very very concentrated, so only use a little bit! Autopia are local to us in San Diego, so delivery is fast (although I notice the kit you selected is currently out of stock!) David @ Autopia often puts on local tech session days, so keep an eye on the Autopia forums for events.

for a sealant, I've used Klasse for years and it seems to be the most durable. it can easily last 6 months. unfortunately it's also the biggest PITA to buff. I've just purchased a Flex so I'm hoping that it'll reduce my buffing time but it works great. Usually I'll do a couple of coats of Klasse SG followed by Blitz or p21

I used Optimum Poli-seal last time I waxed the car, and it really came out great, even though I applied it by hand, after claying. I have to apply something again soon, and I am thinking of claying and using Rejex if the paint is nice and shiny on it's own. The Optimum Poli seal is good because it removes fine swirl marks, and leaves a hard non-wax coating in one step. Rejex is good because it lasts forever, and is EASY to work with. Decisions, decisions! I do have to get one of those portable tent thingys that CD has! My driveway gets a ton of sun all day. Where do you get one of those?

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Brave man. I agree it's great but such a PITA to use that I only put it on wheels now. Still got the same bottle I purchased like 3 years ago and it's mostly full!

What's the skinny on Collinite? I've heard the Super Doublecoat Auto Wax (No. 476s) uber -durable.

Having never tried Ultima, I've been very pleased with the Zaino, although prep time is a bit exhausting on the initial work-up. I may give the Ultima a try because the look is amazing.

I have really liked the Zaino line since I had the car fully polished a few months ago. I use Z5 and Z2 in alternation always ending with Z2 for that nice we look. I started by applying 6 really thin layers and that has lasted a solid 4 months. Each time i do a simple wash it still beads and looks great.

Raphael I got yor PM, here's my take I've used Zaino, Ultima, Rejex, a variety of cleaner waxes and sealants. They all look great but as Andy points out it doesn't matter much what you put on top if what's underneath isn't perfect to begin with. I believe the best investment you can make in car car is a random orbital polisher like the ultimate detailing machine, some good polishing pads, and some education on the subject of paint care over at detailer's domain, the autopia forums etc. Paying a detailer is a good start, but unless you know what's being done at each step you don't really know if you're getting a "full" detail from clay to compound to polish to finish to sealant etc That having been said, as requested here's what I like the best in the categories that count: Wash: Optimum No Rinse is hands down the best car wash for the money I've used. Clay: Zaino clay feels great, I haven't tried the new improved version of elastrofoam but I hear it scratches QD/clay lube: Optimum No Rinse diluted in QD concentration with distilled water Compound: Menzerna Powergloss Scratch Polish: Menzerna SIP Finishing Polish: Menzerna Final Finish (Nano Polish) Glass: Stoner's Invisible Glass Clear Plastic/clear bra/headlamps etc: Plexus Soft Rubber Seals: Wurth Rubber Care Stick (Gummi Phlege) Other Plastic & Rubber Trim: Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Wheels: Wurth wheel cleaner to release dust any wax or sealant you like to keep em fresh, rejex is nice Tires: I use meguiars hot shine sprayed on a sponge and wiped onto the tres, leaves a black matte finish. I reapply every ash, car is washed at least once every couple of weeks, always looks good. Last Step Product: I love ultima, I really do, because it goes on very, very easily. Zaino's system is simpler now and they do have a wipe on walk away product line which is supposed to be just as good. Ultima layers well. Rejex is a great sealant for wheels, but I found it didn't look as good on black. I had a white audi I used it on and it was perfect. But not good on the black porsche, benz or dark grey BMW Honestly, the best look I've ever seen in a single coat is the Meguiar's NXT 2.0 Tech Wax, but it is wipe on wipe off, doesn't layer and is not as easy to apply evenly in liquid form as ultima or zaino. It also doesn't last. But I bet when asked which is better looking, 9/10 people will choose a car with a single coat of NXT 2.0 vs a car with a single coat of the wipe on walk away sealants from ultima or zaino. It's cheap too. My recommendation, if you want wet wet looking paint, is to mix up some quick detailer with distilled water (reduces spotting) and also buy a spray wax or a topper to be regularly applied over your sealant of choice, be it Ultima, Zaino, whatever, and apply when you feel you need the pop. I use Zaino Grand Finale over my ultima, it's great but lasts 2 or 3 days. A lot of guys use Optimum Car Wax, also supposed to be great and lasts much longer. No matter what you use, a spray wax without cleaners or abrasives will always make your car look like you just waxed it. Plus stop rubbing your car so much, you'll go blind. The nice thing about ultima is you can (and will) re-apply more often than necessary because it's so easy to do, so that might obviate the need for a topper except for special occasions. I personally do not like the ultima paint prep that much, it doesn't cut, and I noticed no difference in durability with or without it.

Pictures speak a thousand words, lol... Everyone post pics of their results with their favorite products

I've tried tons of waxes over the last 10+ years on my Porsches, poured over the archives trying different products based on recommendations. Meguiar's NXT tech 2.0 sealant was the last product that dissappointed me. I always end up going back to 1 grand blitz wax and it's what I will continue to use from now on. Sorry the pic's not the best.

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Fun idea, but difficult! (at least for us amateur photographers) But what the heck, should end up with some nice photos . . . Orient Red 2003 C4S Wash Clay bar Random orbital correction via Griot's RO and Menzerna Final Finish PO85RD. [No swirls to deal with, so no more aggressive polish used.] Swissvax wax

Jon996, fantastic results. The depth & richness of the red is incredible. Good enough for a magazine, all you're missing is a sexy girl in a tight red leather outfit sitting in your car, haha... Anyway, this is kind of OT since this thread is about sealants & waxes, but what machine did you use? I'm currently trying to decide between a UDM, Meguiar's G110, PC, or Griot's RO. Thanks.

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Thanks much!-- It took a lot of nerve for me to use a power polisher on my car, but it was worth it. Took longer to tape off the rubber weatherstripping than to actually polish. Wow was it worthwhile. I bought the Griots, which I think is a red colored PC. It is very safe. If I was doing it again, I would have went with the Flex unit that has been getting rave reviews.

Swissvax but I'm bias, I'm going to say its 95% prep (meaning wash/clay/paint correction etc...) After shots: Drove it to a nice empty parking spot for some more pictures.

more Swissvax Crystal Rock After shots: Last shot:

more Swissvax

After shots:

^^^^ wow, Phil you da man! and of course you got me hooked on Mazerna FMJ

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Teflon does not stick to paint, it may add some slickness but it doesn't bond to paint.......unless you can heat it up to some 2000 degrees! Anthony

I get my waxes/polishes from a local dealer that blends his own. I don't trust store-bought brands on black paint. Best way to keep you car shiny after you find a good wax you like, SPEND $ ON GOOD MICROFIBER TOWLES for detailing. Wash your mitts after EVERY use in the washing machine. Purchase a waffle micro-fiber drying towel (no shammy's, natural or otherwise). After spraying the vehicle free of soap, "dry-rinse" the vehicle by taking the nozzle off the hose. Gentle flowing water will eliminate 90% of drying time and scratches. Beads up like mercury and runs off vehicle.

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Nice looking 928! I used to use Imperial Glaze, followed by Blitz Wax, but it just didn't last long enough. I don't have the time to wax the car every week, or twice a month. When I use the modern non-waxes, they last 6 months or more! Less "depth"? Maybe, but shiney enough for me!

I waxed two of the cars yesterday, no polishing claying etc, but i washed and put the 3rd coat of a sealant on the Porsche and a 1st ever coat of Meguiars NXT 2.0 Liquid wax on the 528xi (which by the way has a TON of orange peel in the paint, car is 3 months old and without a scratch though, 1st wash) I personally like the look of the NXT a lot. I also used it on the wheels on the 996, and even though they are just a standard polished finish they photographed near chrome reflectivity. It's not as fancy as the nanotech product on the rest of the car, but it's cheap and great for single step cleaning of wheels. I'l be doing the full pre-summer detail in a few weeks, the weather still isn't stable enough here in NY for me to bother with it yet. NOTE: These pics were NOT shot with the intention of posting on rennlist or being used to show sealant results, they're just me playing around with a camera after a wash and wax!

Next tech 2.0

Rejex

Hi All, I have had good luck and results with the Zaino products. I have used them on my previous car, Camaro, and have just this weekend started using them on my 2004 Targa. I like the results and they seem to be pretty easy to apply. The prep. can be time consuming but applies to all products if you want to do a top job. I like Zaino because they are not abrasive. The Zaino does not do a great job of taking out minor scratches since it is not abrasive. I have never used any mechanical/electric polish machines. I am scared to use them since I don't know what I am doing with them. Others may know what they are doing and that is good, but I don't trust myself so I do everything by hand. I only use 100% cotton towels and they must be really clean. Otherwise you get swirls. Just my .02. Bottomline is, as others have said, most of time it is not so much the products, but the amount of prep and time you put into it. Tony

I can say that when it comes to compounding and polishing, a random orbital machine is much safer than hand application, mostly because you can actually generate far more heat with your hands than with a dinky random orbit. I HAVE burned paint by hand, but never with a random orbital. As far as wax/sealant application, by hand is perfectly fine, but you should try by random orbital at least once (not rotary if you're new). Lays down thinner, more even layers, which buff off more easily, assures even coverage, and prevents streaking.

Wow, I did not know that. But I have not used much polishing or rubbing compounds. I have always seen the rotary ones that look kinda scary to me. I may check out a random orbital type but I have had good results with hand application so far. Thanks, T

Once you use a R/O polisher, you will ask yourself "Self, why didn't you get one of these sooner, you ___________ (insert your favorite self denigrating word(s) here)."

+1 bought one from Griot's Garage, love that thing !! I also am a lot less tired after I do it and my shoulder doens't hurt, or my hands, or my back. Since it's quicker, I have time to drive the car on the same day as I clean it up.... really worth the money (though in all fairness I have to confess - because Tim loves to hear these stories - I bought (2) of them from a guy on craigslist and sold one on ebay for what I paid for the both of them.... HA, Take that mister 10% FEE !!! ) HAHAHAHA gawd I am sick!!! HELP ME ---------->

Yup, I've decided I need a polisher now as my local "detailers" just won't cut it anymore. I'm too much of a perfectionest... I'm trying to choose between a Flex, Meg's G110, PC, UDM, or Griots RO. What machines do you all have & why?

flex is a cut above, otherwise all the rest are pretty much the same

Zaino. Tim, I added one for you

Nice Mike!

I've been skipping the sealant part for a long while now. For an enthusiast owned car it's not necessary unless you never maintain your paint. A solid synth "base" wax with numerous top coats of more wax and quick detail sprayings applied every couple of months will keep your car more than protected. Save the $$ money and invest in some quality towels instead that will have a much bigger impact on your paint than that sealant. sometimes I think these wax companies want enthusiasts to buy 12 different products whose goals are really met with only two.

Mike, I still can't believe you let that schweeet Turbo S go!

There are times when I could kick myself, like right now! Nothing drives or sounds like an air cooled car but there is a lot to say about a water cooled car when the outside temp gets above 100 and you want cold A/C. So I guess I put it to bed for the summer.

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wax is also a paint sealant, especially synthetic wax. If you use synthetic wax there really is no need for an additional sealant, however some people do place wax on top of other sealants for extra depth. I agree about using the fewest things you possibly can, which is one thing that is nice about the ultima product (you really only need paint guard plus, single wipe on, walk away product, and you can use whatever you want as a quick detailer). But if you like waxing the car more frequently and enjoy putting it on and taking it off etc, then I think it's definitely better to go with synthetic wax. For what it's worth, most of this stuff is pretty cheap, and half an ounce will do a whole car with most of them. Optimum actually has a great wipe on walk away product called opti-seal which is very cheap, and there's rejex (which has to be buffed out), also very cheap. Even ultima is much less expensive than it used to be. The primary reason I like these wipe on walk away products is because they are so easy to apply. You can apply a little top up coat in the course of a quick detail without adding any time at all, which means you only really have to allocate one day a year to paint prep and initial sealing coat (if that, I still haven't polished mine this year). Additional coats are so easy I can't even describe it, so your car always looks waxed because you can always add a little product without spending any time or energy or effort. Depending on your perspective, it's either the thinking man's or the lazy man's (me) way of keeping his car really shiny year round without working too hard at it.

ZAINO

IMHO Rejex was made for truckers not for cars for car show. I think of it more for industrial application. Ive used it on my wheels so the dirt comes off easily when washed. But it(rejex) does not do a good job in keeping it mile deep looking for a long time. I use Meguiars # 27 Profesional wax for the car.

Completely bare paint..nothing on it at all, just polished to perfection. With Zaino Z5

The "depth" of a finish has to do with how spectrally flat the paint surface is. Organic waxes such as Meguires, Zanio, etc. have fillers in them that level out the microscratches that all paint surfaces have. This allows light to reflect evenly instead of having the microscratches act like a diffraction grating, scattering the light and gives the "depth" that you talk about. A paint surface that is polished before the use of Rejex, or one that has Rejex applied first and then has a filler glaze applied on top of Rejex will match or exceed any "depth" that an organic wax provides.

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OE, My observation with Rejex is it will put that initial shine but does not last as regular car wax(on the shiny side) but its properties in rejecting dirt is outstanding.

Mike: That could be, but mine seems to last 6 months or so before it needs a touch-up. Next time you do a Rejex coating, after it has cured, give the surface a top coat of Machine glaze to level the finish. This will help the paint give a better "depth" presentation.

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I will surely try that OE. Having both sealing and shine properties would be great