13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCost of 3.4 head removal and replacement
Leading reported evidence
Check cylinder walls
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
While the engine is out and the head off, check the cylinder walls for signs of scoring, chain tensioner for wear, etc.
Leading evidence: 'Check cylinder walls' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cylinder walls' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The hoses have been flushed out twice and the car sitting for the last 9 months with basically clean distilled water/coolant.
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Suggestion
No idea but you may want to look at replacing your hoses if the coolant wasn't flushed out because the oil will eat at the hoses......trust me.
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Suggestion
Conventional wisdom says replace all hoses, however some shops say nay.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Can anyone provide me with a ballpark of the number of hours (or the cost) to remove and replace a single head, in car, on a 2000 3.4l?
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hello all,
Can anyone provide me with a ballpark of the number of hours (or the cost) to remove and replace a single head, in car, on a 2000 3.4l? The "book time" would probably be best.
Yes, I have developed the dreaded intermix issue and bank 1 is the culprit, necessitating the repair. I have a replacement head, BTW...
Thanks in advance!
Best,
TomF
No idea but you may want to look at replacing your hoses if the coolant wasn't flushed out because the oil will eat at the hoses......trust me. You had mentioned this a while back right?
Best advice is to call the shops in your area you would trust with this job and get quotes.
I'm not sure if the engine has to come out to remove the head. If it does that adds some time to the labor.
Thanks all. The hoses have been flushed out twice and the car sitting for the last 9 months with basically clean distilled water/coolant.
The head can come off with the engine in the car. I am tempted to tackle it myself, but just have way too many projects on my plate at the moment. I will call a local shop and see what they quote. FWIW, I will have a bank 2 head for sale as soon as we ascertain that it's really bank one that has the issue. I bought a complete set, as well as intake, MAF, alternator, starter, etc... too many parts sitting around!
Thanks all!
Best,
TomF
My 2000 996 with 42,000 miles intermixed. 1-3 head, crack located between #1 cylinder and spake plug hole. Here in the sf/Bay Area the cost of a head repair ala (Costa Mesa R&D), LN IMS bearing, water pump, thermostat, etc. came to +- $10,000. That included a cooling system flush, but not replacement hoses. Conventional wisdom says replace all hoses, however some shops say nay.
Intermix is a bitter pill. You hear about the dreaded IMS bearing, but unfortunately there are many additional ways for the 996 engine to break. Cracked heads appear to be a problem primarily with early 1999 - 2000 units.
While the engine is out and the head off, check the cylinder walls for signs of scoring, chain tensioner for wear, etc. Best advice, don't dump a ton of money into the engine beyond the repair to upgrade performance etc., the 996 has many wonderful attributes, but appreciation doesn't appear yo be one of them.
Fix it as inexpensively as you can and enjoy it, or sell it an by a Metzger engine car for not that much more $.
Porque
2003 996tt
2000 996 C2 (my first and always my fondest)
Go for it and do it yourself. Even if only 1 hour every now and then and it will be done in 8 months. The rewards of not paying someone else will be well worth it at the end.
+1 I agree with you completely. The only problem is that was the philosophy that I took when building my lake-front home...seven years in and I still have a year on that to go!
Seriously, I have never paid anyone to work on my cars for me as I really get great satisfaction wrenching on them. I may go ahead and tackle it myself over a long weekend on my friend's lift. What I should do is buy a lift for myself with the money I will save by doing the work myself!
Best,
TomF
Exactly what I did last year. It has paid for itself. And my body is happy for not laying on concrete because I use one of these.
http://www.bonecreeper.com/bone.html
The mid-rise scissor lifts with an open middle design (so you can access the middle bottom of the car without obstruction) are getting so affordable now
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...-Mid-Rise-Lift
The lift is fully mobile and there's no need to drill any hole in the ground to anchor the lift. When I have not tried the lift above, it looks quite promising.
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