Coolant tank cracked

Just finished with the steering wheel, airbag, turn signal, etc. replacement and now turning my time to the next project. I was smelling antifreeze last fall when I put the car up. I made one round trip and found a puddle under the drivers side rear when I parked it. It is not the AOS because there is no smoke when running. Turns out the cheapest thing you have leak is probably the coolant expansion tank. It is located inside the engine compartment on the left hand side. I bought replacement from Pelican Products and it was in the box with the new turn signal stalk. At first I though this was a drop engine type of thing but according to this video it can be done from top with out dropping the engine. Feedback?

I have not had to replace my expansion tank yet, but when I do I will probably "lower" the engine to gain the extra room. Put a jack under the engine and remove the two motor mount nuts...lower the engine and you will gain quite a bit of room to work on that. Edit - disconnect air box and SAI pump first!

Every 996 at one point goes through a coolant expansion tank. They are expensive compared to Audi, VW, BMW tanks, naturally. The connecting hose under the tank goes bad pretty often as well. Followed by coolant pump, thermostat assembly.... It is good to do a detailed check up every once in a while. Especially in hot temperatures, if you smell coolant. No need to lower the engine.

If you have a Mk I, it's quite easy because the tank is small. Best is to lower the engine. If you have a Mk II, it's much harder but still the same procedures except you need to remove the black bracket holding the top of the tank first, before you can remove the tank. Mk I instruction: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...laced-diy.html

good time to also check/replace: tank cap, t-stat, serp belt and hoses/lines

I just replaced the tank on my 2003. I had to lower the engine, and remove the gray/black plastic tank bracket. It helps to have a good 1/4" drive ratchet, two wobble(6" and 2") extensions and a universal joint to get around the rear of the tank to the inner bracket bolt when you are remounting the bracket above the newly installed tank. Remember to pull the level sensor as soon as you can get your hand in there. The level sensor turns clockwise to come out. To save time getting the old tank out I cut the lower inner nipple off with a PVC cutter. That allowed me to pull the tank out before I pulled the bracket and much easier access to the bracket bolts (10mm socket) Also when you drop the engine make sure that you have enough slack in the four, 2 left and 2 right, oxygen sensor wires, pull them out of the wire guides, and also unclip the bracket that holds the power steering hoses to the firewall above the power steering pump. first pic shows cut off nipple, second crack that leaked the most, third both cracks. The one in the middle barely sweated. Just a note: If you are due for coil/plug replacement consider replacing #1 while you have access to the connecter from the top.

All good tips but I think you meant LOWER the engine by disconnecting the engine mounts, as oppsed to dropping the engine, right?

Yes, exactly, thank you for clarifying that Ahsai. Lower the part of the engine that faces the rear bumper of the car, commonly called the front of the engine even though it faces the rear of the car, towards the ground by supporting the engine with a jack, and some wood, to spread force across a larger portion of the engine case/pan. Then remove the 19mm nuts on the rear engine mounts to allow the jack to support that section of the engine. This will allow that part of the engine, the front that faces the rear of the car, to be droppped until the bell housing, this part is on the rear of the engine facing the front of the car and often considered part of the transmission, is barely touching the cross member.

Started the car this am to check my work. Forgot to secure 2 hose clamps on the tank, other than that no problem. Thanks for the suggestions.

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If it's a MKI, you don't need to lower the engine. I have a '99 and did mine in about 45 minutes without lowering the engine.

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Coupe or cab? I thought I read someplace that the cabs have less room in there and lowering the engine helps. My tank isn't leaking yet, but it's only a matter of time.

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Mine is a coupe. It took 45 minutes because I stopped and had a beer. The hardest part was wiggling the tank out. If you are paying attention at the very last second when it comes out, just remember the last step you did. It literally took me a minute to put the new one in.