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YOUR RESEARCHPffff, car didn't want to cooperate
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Check before throwing another battery in the car
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I'd not throw a new alternator in the car based on my WAG but you want to be sure alternator function is tested and wiring connections are checked before throwing another battery in the car.
Leading evidence: 'Check before throwing another battery in the car' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check alternator' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The indie did say they would check the cables as a matter of course, to eliminate that problem.
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Suggestion
If the alternator is checked with the engine running it should be checked not only at startup but after the engine has run a while.
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Suggestion
If the alternator is checked with the engine running it should be checked not only at startup but after the engine has run a while.
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I'd not throw a new alternator in the car based on my WAG but you want to be sure alternator function is tested and wiring connections are checked before throwing another battery in the car.
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Strange, I thought it was a battery problem.
Didn't want to crank two weeks ago, got a new battery.
Today while driving the voltage indicator's needle kept dropping to the floor, down to 10v!! Then the battery warning light came on, PSM failure warning came on.
Once the car was turned off, it refused to start. Doors etc still open though.
Called a breakdown service, they sent a battery replacement guy. His battery diagnostic equipment recommended to tow the vehicle. It was flat-bedded into an indie, left it for the night. I'll drop by there early tomorrow morning to chat with the guys.
It's a 2003 Tip C4.
Also noticed dripped coolant onto the cardboard I put on the floor. Last year the dealer did a pressure test and found nothing. Will get the indie to look at this too.
Good question. The symptoms/behavior read more like the alternator is failing to supply the electrical power to not only top up the battery but meet the electrical needs of the rest of the car than a bad battery.
I'd not throw a new alternator in the car based on my WAG but you want to be sure alternator function is tested and wiring connections are checked before throwing another battery in the car.
Yup as it's a new battery I wouldn't buy another one.
The sequence would be (not DIY):
- alternator out
- test whether it's voltage regulator or alternator
- replaced/refurbished if it's alternator
- alternator in
That should do it.
Mileage is 76,000 kms (47,000 miles).
Do not let an intermittently working alternator fool you. As I have mentioned before I came upon a car in the dealership and was asking about it since it had the diagnostics computer hooked up to the connector under the dash.
The tech told me he was using it trouble shoot a suspected problem with the car that he believed was the due to the alternator.
The engine would start and idle just fine for a few minutes, then warning lights/messages would show up, the engine would start to idle poorly and then after a moment or two, die.
The tech would shut off the key and let the car sit a while and he could then restart the engine and all was ok for a while then downhill in one hurry things would go, just like before.
The tech suspected the alternator was working ok at least shortly after engine start but would then stop working and the battery would be the only source of electrical power for the car and engine. As the battery ran down the car would act up and eventually the engine would die due to a lack of power to spark the plugs and so on.
If the alternator is checked with the engine running it should be checked not only at startup but after the engine has run a while. Ideally with the engine (and naturally the alternator) both cold and both warmed up.
Thanks Macster.
Nothing went to the battery. We knew this by starting the car, hooked into external power source for a couple of minutes (from the breakdown service guy), car ran fine; took it off the power source car started to idle roughly within 30 seconds.
Voltage regulator, unfortunately it costs double here in NZ than getting it from Pelican Parts. Since the car is immobile, and there isn't enough room at the garage, I have to get it locally. If only I have a flat-bed tow truck handy ......
I believe that the voltage regulator is a fairly standard part. You may be able to find it for less money if sold for another car. Also, watch out for bad cable connections coming off the alternator at the starter.
I don't have the time to ask around, and since the European car market is not big in New Zealand there is no competition for customers to get better pricing.
The indie did say they would check the cables as a matter of course, to eliminate that problem.
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