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YOUR RESEARCHtreating leather dashboards...
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Use 1:50 mixture of woolite and water: spray
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On seats/steering wheel I use a 1:50 mixture of woolite and water: spray on towel, wipe/scrub leather; then use a clean, wet microfiber towel to go over the treated area; finally go over with a dry towel.
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I use 303 Protectant on the interior surfaces, including the dash, primarily for the UV protection.
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I've used Leatherique in the past on my other cars on the seats.
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Suggestion
On seats/steering wheel I use a 1:50 mixture of woolite and water: spray on towel, wipe/scrub leather; then use a clean, wet microfiber towel to go over the treated area; finally go over with a dry towel.
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On seats/steering wheel I use a 1:50 mixture of woolite and water: spray on towel, wipe/scrub leather; then use a clean, wet microfiber towel to go over the treated area; finally go over with a dry towel.
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Folks, those of you with full leather interiors (40th AE, etc), how are you treating/conditioning your dashboards?
I've used Leatherique in the past on my other cars on the seats. But in the case of the dashboard are there any gotchas I need to be aware of?
For the "full leather" interiors, what else is leather?
Thanks!
The leather Porsche uses on the dash contains almost no moisture - it is specifically dried so there will be less "movement" as it goes through the big temperature changes that can occur on the dash. Introducing moisture back into the leather by using a conditioner will cause the leather to "move" with temperature changes and possibly break loose from the surface it is glued to. Here's what Porsche has to say about the leather used on the dash...
"All leather is not the same. We work with classic upholstery leather, but we also work with low-shrinkage leather. The instrument paneling, for example, can get extremely hot in summer. If the material starting tightening, what would that look like after a while? So we're talking about leather whose residual moisture has been largly removed, which means that it won't be able to shrink later." (Christophorus, No. 276 January 1999)
And link:
Eric@Bumperplugs
As a pro detailer, here is my take on leather. Modern leather, and vinyls, in today's cars are coated. In essence, there is a clear coat on the hide that protects it. Think of the paint on your car. Same deal, clear coat protecting the color coat.
So, now that we know it is coated, we know that nothing is supposed to penetrate the coating. The fancy and expensive leather systems are typically a creme type of product. They simply will not penetrate past the clear coat and will have a neglible effect. Most times, the product will actually hold onto to dirt, dust and body oils. You are creating a bigger problem sometimes.
But, it does not hurt to use a UV protectant, especially on the dash. Here is what I recommend:
First, keep the leather vacuumed. Dirt particles will get rubbed into the coating on the leather and eventually abrade it away. Keeping a clean interior is a must.
Second, you want a product that will protect but also not hold onto dust and dirt. I highly recommend a product called 303 Aerospace. You can pick it up at any marine supplier. It is awesome on leather and vinyl. It has very high UV numbers and you can make it as shiny or natural looking as you want. I prefer a satin look over high gloss. After using 303, you will be amazed at much less dusty your interior gets.
If you have uncoated leather, then yes, you need to use a higher end gel or creme based system.
Just my .02 based on 20+ years of high end and luxury detailing. My caveat is always, use what works for you and gives you the results you are happy with. It is always nice to have other options in the detaiilng tool box.
You'll get about as many opinions as if you'd asked which oil is best. I use 303 Protectant on the interior surfaces, including the dash, primarily for the UV protection. I like the appearance, too.
Thanks for the info everyone. I seriously thought about treating my dashboard, etc but also noticed no one ever mentioned that on the forums. So now I just need to do the seats!
As for the 303, I have that as well. Used it on my original E30M3.
Exactly what I have been suspecting for some time, so why hasn't any of the automotive leather care product manufacturers come out and state that their leather care product won't do anything good for 90+ percent of the automotive leather surfaces out there?!
Oh right, profit.
Best product I have used for coated leather. I keep my seats pretty clean and was shocked at how much film came off onto the cloth the first time I used it. No shiny finish just matte new looking again.
http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-leather-care.html
I've also been using Griot's Interior Cleaner which is available over the counter now at Advanced Auto. It works well on carpeting as well as the hard surfaces.
I love not having to pay shipping or needing to put together a big order to get free shipping.
303 is also great on rubber trim, 996 spoiler bellows, '80s rear spoiler rubber edges and as a tire sidewall dressing. Love the stuff. Plus, a little goes a long way.
Like said above, new automotive leather has a clear coat.
I generally use a damp microfiber towel is usually good. On seats/steering wheel I use a 1:50 mixture of woolite and water: spray on towel, wipe/scrub leather; then use a clean, wet microfiber towel to go over the treated area; finally go over with a dry towel.
For actual cleaning of the interior, I call up AutoLavish.
Honestly, I wouldn't waste the money. Leatherique is a fantastic product if used for the right application. It is a rejuvenating oil and simply will not have any effect on coated leather. It works amazing on older, uncoated leather and I highly recommend it.
I have shelves full of interior and exterior products. I test them as soon as they hit the market and some before they are even released. I have come to the conclusion that coated products simply need cleaning and surface protection.
Have you ever spilled water or a liquid on your car seat? Notice how i just beads and doesn't soak in? Same effect leather treatment cremes and gels will have...sitting on the surface collecting even more dirt and dust.
Like a poster said earlier in the thread, detailing questions are like asking what kind of oil to use. Lots of opinions. Just dont overthink it and realize what kind of surface you are dealing with and go from there. Keeping it vaccumed and wiped down with a damp towel is a must. Treatment for UV is an option.
That products original purpose was to restore old or worn out leather and/or do a color change.
It instructs you to actually sand down your leather first before application(most likely to get rid of the top clear coat layer).
I view that as more of a restoration product than a maintenance product.
Thank you all for the advice. My light grey leather seats are very shiny compared to the rest of the interior. Any way I can reduce the shine? I have been using products like Lexol which cleans but does not do the job.
Are they shiny from a product application or shiny from wear? Either way, I would clean them thoroughly with a mild all purpose cleaner. Do a test spot first. After they are free of product, dirt and body oils you will probably (hopefully) be left with a matte finish. Then you can apply whichever protectant you would like. If applying 303 Aerospace, you can make it as shiny or matte as you like. If you wipe it on and leave as is, it will be more semi gloss. If can apply it then knock down the finish with a micro fiber towel and be left with a more natural, factory look.
So, if these new leathers are coated does that mean that they won't "breathe" like older, uncoated leather? That is one of the best things about leather upholstery, comfort, prticularly on a hot day.
Coated leathers dont breathe like traditional leather. Notice how stiff our 996 seats feel and look? I wish we could make them supple like an old catchers mitt but so it goes. Some sports/luxury cars have really nice, soft leather but are still coated. They have the plastic feel to them.
Does this clear coat on leather wear off?
I've been using the 303 on the dash and door leather, but Lexol on the seats. Seems the seats are softer after Lexol is applied, I have the supple leather. Is it just product sitting on top of clear coat?
303 is great stuff for vinyl and rubber as well. Use it on door seals, tires, interior trim...
I usually find it at marine supply stores like West Marine. I believe it was originally developed for boat applications
The clear coat will definitely wear off over time, especially the bolster or wherever your body rubs. Depending on the year, 996's can have a more supple feel to the leather. For instance, my 2000 is harder compared to an 02 or 03. The leather itself is still coated but has different grade.
The Lexol is sitting on the surface but it is actually softening the clear coat, to a point, that makes the leather feel softer. You are not actually putting product into the hide itself. Working with supple leather to begin with is to your advantage. Much better than my rock hard seats.
Once the coating is worn off, you may notice that the color of the hide will start to diminish. There are dyes that can be used to essentlially repaint the seats. I repainted my 944 seats years ago and it works rather well.
Gator996, which mild all purpose cleaner do you recommend? I tried using some Lexol and there is dirt and grime removed by the towel. However, the leather esp on the side bolsters still is very shiny and somewhat hard when compared to the center console leather of the same color. Thank you for all your help!
For an over the counter product, try this:
You should be able to find it at most parts stores. If not, let me know and I can pass on some products that you can order online. Some of the shine you see may be the surface being worn...kind of like an old leather jacket that gets shiny with wear. A good cleaning should make some headway though. Once you clean it then treat it, the surface should even out gloss wise and look symetrical all over.
303 has been around awhile and I would say one of the original high end water based protectant and something that is readily available. There are several others that do a great job as well. Generally majority of the new synthetic water based formulas will repel dirt and offer some level of UV protectant.
My current stash comprises of Optimum Protectant Plus FWIW. Leaves nice satin finish without the gloss which I prefer. The OptiBond Tire Gel works great too for those that don't like the shiny stuff.
Edit: Just be careful to not rub too hard with whatever you are using. You may see color start to come off on your towel, especially in the very worn areas. Take your time and be gentle. It will take several applications most likely.
Anything from Optimum is fantastic. A large part of my paint correction and sealant arsenal is from Optimum.
In fact, the question was asked above about a good APC. Optimum Power Clean is an awesome all purpose cleaner and dillutible to whatever you need. Its not over the counter but can be bought direct from Optimum Polymer Technologies online.
I agree 100%. Just used Optimum No Rinse doing a bucket wash in my garage the other day.
However I prefer Ultima Waterless Wash+ over the ONR as a QD as it is more slick.
