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YOUR RESEARCHNew to Rennlist!
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Adjust properly
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However, once you have the car as low as yours, you're changing other aspects of the suspension geometry as well, which is where the need for adjustable toe links comes into play, you'll need those to get the toe adjusted properly.
Leading evidence: 'Adjust properly' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'inch lower than my 996' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust camber past factory specs' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I run -2.3 in rear on my car and only get about 5000 miles till rears need to be replaced.
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I ran around -3 degrees of camber on my C4S when it was at it's lowest (stock dogbones and toe arms) and when getting the toe as close to "good" as possible, my rear tires only lasted around 5k miles.
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They are used not only to tighten up the rear handling but to adjust camber past factory specs.
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Suggestion
They are used not only to tighten up the rear handling but to adjust camber past factory specs.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
However, once you have the car as low as yours, you're changing other aspects of the suspension geometry as well, which is where the need for adjustable toe links comes into play, you'll need those to get the toe adjusted properly.
Replace other aspects of the suspension geometry as well
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Suggestion
However, once you have the car as low as yours, you're changing other aspects of the suspension geometry as well, which is where the need for adjustable toe links comes into play, you'll need those to get the toe adjusted properly.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ran around -3 degrees of camber on my C4S when it was at it's lowest (stock dogbones and toe arms) and when getting the toe as close to "good" as possible, my rear tires only lasted around 5k miles.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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What's up guys, I've had my C2 for almost 2 years now but I just decided to make an account here (idk why it took so long) but here's a picture of how my car looked when I first picked it up compared to how it looks now
sorry for some of the low quality pictures.
I hate the stock suspension height, but you have that car seriously lowered, I guess you're living up to your username...
No tire contact when driving hard?
Thanks
Yeah stock height you can fit your head in between that nasty wheel gap, now I can't even stick my pinky in between. No contact at all..the rears are cambered a bit, which comes from how low I'm sitting but I guess it helps with the no contact haha
Lmao! I believe it's a 55.
That is Brutal Low...Any car I have seen/Ridden in that low without bags has been a nightmare...Would love to hear how you accomplished that..What are your alignment specs after the lowering? Tire wear?
What part of LA have you found with roads good enough to drive with that little clearance? That's impressive. I have a couple of spots I need to touch up on my front lip, and you're probably an inch lower than my 996.
Thanks everyone for the welcome and thank you for the honest feedback
I personally have never seen a slammed Porsche and that is why I chose to do this haha. I have ksport pro coil overs. Before I got the coils I put on the h&r lowering springs however the 1.5" drop did nothing for me since the stock wheel gap was like 4 inches lol. The ride quality on those springs were amazing but I was not happy with the drop. Driving around is not too bad because I take streets that are smooth, no bumps, and I just keep an eye out for potholes.. I believe the rear is at -3 or -4 camber and I do get inside tire wear but I do not mind it all. As far as ruining what the car is designed for...I don't really track the car or drive it super hard so it's form over function for me
Welcome to RL. I run -2.3 in rear on my car and only get about 5000 miles till rears need to be replaced. Cant imagine -3 OR -4! Did you replace the stock control arms with adjustable c arms in order to get that much negative camber? Oh if you've never seen a slammed Porsche you should go to the 964 section and look at the picture thread... some tasty nuggets over there.
Well at least you're honest.
as for the rear tire wear, you might wanna try rear toe links as they'll probably double your tire life with it being that low. I have toe links but they're probably not as useful for me since I'm not slammed.
All I did was lower the car to get that camber haha. Also I meant to say never seen a slammed 996 sorry (:
Yeah I'm kind of trying to figure out what I need to align the rear, idk if I need new control arms or a camber kit..maybe someone can help?
There are quite a few slammed 996s, you seem of the more aggressive type that is static but none the less. I had my car that low towards the end of last year, however with the oil return line on the turbo attaching to the bottom, I had to raise it back up or I was going to destroy the line and my block.
Cappys 4S was quite low as well.
What problems are you having with alignment at the rear? Do you want more/less toe?
The top two grey bars are what's known as "dog bones". They are used not only to tighten up the rear handling but to adjust camber past factory specs. The lower single grey bar is the toe link. This let's you adjust toe settings beyond factory adjustment, especially helpful for slammed cars. Toe is what wears out the tires more than camber so the toe links should be the first ones to get out of the set. Some toe links also have bumpsteer correction built in as well.
You also mentioned you are more about form but it wouldn't hurt to get adjustable end links for your sway bars since you are slammed. I bet there's a lot of pre-load on your sway bars right now the way it sits, affecting your ride.
Welcome. My C4S was about as low as your car is, but I ended up raising it a bit because it handled like ****, even with JIC coilovers. Just too much bump steer in the front.
Being a Porsche forum, you'll find that most of the people on here are a bit older than the crowd on your typical forum, so the typical modification path is going to emphasize performance over form, so you won't always get a lot of "support" for modifications that degrade some aspect of the performance of the car. With that said, being an older and [generally] more mature crowd around here, there is also a lot more of the "it's your car, not ours, so do what makes you happy" mentality.
I bet there are a few slammed 996s out there but like I said, I personally have not seen any myself but would love to see some (: as for the rear I would prefer to have no camber by staying this low..I think that has to do with camber but i'm not 100% sure since people are telling me I need to fix the toe more than the camber
confusing stuff..
Thank you!
That helped me a lot althought to be honest I do no fully understand what needs to be done becuase when I went to the alignment shop yesterday, they basically told me the only thing I can do to fully align my car with no camber is to raise the car..which I will not do
Whats going on buddy, I was trying to find you but forgot the username you told me haha
And that is why it took me 2 years to make an account here
doesn't bother me though, everyone has their own opinions.
The aftermarket "dogbones" are longer than the factory pieces and offer more adjustment, so it will allow a [competent] alignment shop to push the top of the wheel out more, resulting in less camber. However, once you have the car as low as yours, you're changing other aspects of the suspension geometry as well, which is where the need for adjustable toe links comes into play, you'll need those to get the toe adjusted properly.
I ran around -3 degrees of camber on my C4S when it was at it's lowest (stock dogbones and toe arms) and when getting the toe as close to "good" as possible, my rear tires only lasted around 5k miles. The problem is, you can't tell they're wearing, because only the very inside edge wears, so even though the tires look practically new on the outside edge, you're almost down to the wires on the inside.
This is when my car was slammed. The 19s with big tires and unpainted lower trim throw off the visual a bit, but it was damn low:
This was after I raised my car quite a bit:
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