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YOUR RESEARCHMax Camber on stock control arms?
Leading reported evidence
Check suncoast and vividracing
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checked both suncoast and vividracing, but am not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
Leading evidence: 'Check suncoast and vividracing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'more cost effective way vs' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust camber, or' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I am not sure about the answer to your specific question, I am running -1.5 on stock control arm without camber plate.
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Suggestion
You can use these products individually to adjust camber, or use them in combination to adjust both track width and camber.
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Suggestion
You can use these products individually to adjust camber, or use them in combination to adjust both track width and camber.
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Suspected cause
This is probably the more cost effective way vs using GT3 control arms.
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Hey Rennlisters:
Was looking to achieve a more aggressive/track camber setup with roughly -4 in front and -2 at the rear?
Will the stock control arms allow me to attain this setup? Or will I need camber plates? Does anyone have any experience with the camber range of camber plates?
hi,
are these just numbers you are throwing or really what you want? GT3 OEM spec is -1.5/-1.5 and most people that race them will recommend -2.5/-2.3
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-settings.html
I am not sure about the answer to your specific question, I am running -1.5 on stock control arm without camber plate. I think you can get close to -2 on stock parts
6ta1:
Those numbers aren't based on any Gt3 specs, just numbers I came up with. I'm currently running -1 front and -2 rear (roughly) with stock control arms in the front. Staring down the front of the car, the front wheels are visually faced inward and the rears relatively straight. What I'm looking to achieve is a more aggressive, track-tailored setup with more negative camber at the front than the rear.
More or less exactly like this photo:
http://www.6speedonline.com/g/picture/171280
If you want to be a ricer, buy a Honda.
If you want the car to handle, go with the advice above. You may have to slot the tops of the strut towers to get the front over -2.
I'm just going to give you the benefit of the doubt regarding the "ricer, honda" comment.
All I'm looking to achieve is the link I posted above. I would hardly call that a ricer. But to each his own.
What exactly does this mean? "you may have to slot the tops of the strut towers"
Can't speak for the front as -.7 is all I can get on the stock setup, but I've run -2.2 in the rear before. I have been running -2.0 in the rear for quite awhile now with no issues.
Anything over -1 in the front will require camber plates and/or adjustable control arms like the GT3 has with its lower control arm spacers.
-4 is pretty extreme but if you want GT3 specs, you can either get the OEM monoball gt3 strut mounts or quite a few aftermarket versions. Reversing the gt3 strut mounts will gain you additional 1-1.2 deg of neg camber so -2.0 to -2.5 camber up front total. This is probably the more cost effective way vs using GT3 control arms. The only benefit to using the GT3 arms is if you want slightly wider track and some limited castor adjustment.
Otherwise, if you want even more camber, using both camber plates and Cup control arms should get you where you want. The GT3 LCA will provide you between -2.5 to -3.0 max depending on how much threading you want to risk packing in the shims. So coupled with reversed GT3 strut mounts, you should be able to get -4.5 to -5 max neg camber. With that much camber though you definitely will want a good amount of Castor adjustment or your steering will be hardly useable.
IMO, unless you are driving a cup car or participating in any semi-pro to pro racing, you won't really need the extreme camber that you are seeking. I recommend hanging out on the GT3 forums and seeing what works best for those guys since a lot of them regulary or only track their GT3 cars.
If it's good enough for the hardcore GT3 guys, it's more than good enough for your car. The track alignment settings the GT3 crowd uses are tried and true, assuming you're actually going for a track alignment and this thread isn't just a thinly veiled attempt to figure out to run obscene amounts of camber so you can turn your 996 into a stance car...
Ah this was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Alpine003.
Could you provide me with a reference to gain access to these parts:
1) gt3 strut mounts
2) gt3 control arms
checked both suncoast and vividracing, but am not sure exactly what I'm looking for. thanks.
This is one of the sponsors here and I've had good luck with them both in terms of service and pricing:
http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Porsch...003_2004_2005/
Other alternatives:
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...kit-detail.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/product-p/gt3cak.htm
OEM GT3 strut mounts:
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1498710/
http://www.jimellisporscheparts.com/...sembly=1191980
We make both products.
Check our Navigator to find these and other products, here:
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...-navigator.htm
And pics attached.
You can use these products individually to adjust camber, or use them in combination to adjust both track width and camber.
4 degrees is a lot!
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