Body drain hoses disconnected - interior soaked

My interior carpet was soaked. Here's a quick tip: if your carpet ever gets soaked, it WILL NEVER DRY unless you remove it. The foam is too dense and just holds the water forever. Anyway I cleaned out my drains in the front - they were packed with leaves - but water was still getting in the passenger compartment. After a bit of searching I located the rear drains, they're ok, but the front drains by the doors were disconnected from their outlets. photo(13).JPG Had to remove the relay board to reach the driver side and the passenger side, well it was a miracle I worked it back into its outlet - I could only touch it with one finger and then just barely. My concern is this: it seems like the drain hoses just barely reach the outlet fittings. The hose only penetrates maybe 1/4". If they fell out before there's no reason to believe they will not dislodge again and leak water into the floorboard. They're too soft or inaccessible to put a clamp or a zip tie on. I thought about some type of glue. The hoses seem too short, almost like they've shrunk with age. I can only imagine how difficult it would be to replace them with new hoses. Anyone else been through this that can offer some insight?

You need to be careful about the length of the hoses. The hose lengths may be ok. The ends do not want to extend too far down or when the car is being driven down the road a pressure gradient can form that can have positive pressure pushing up. If it is raining this can be an effective blockage as leaves and cause water to back or be blown out of the basin and onto the sheet metal where it may get into the car. (At various times and with various models from the air-cooled 911's to more modern examples, techs have pointed out the various drain hoses and how they are routed and positioned to when the car is moving down the road to ensure a low pressure area at the hose end to help with water removal. Don't laugh. When I visit a dealer and its service department I often spend all my time under various cars or looking into engine compartments with a tech going over various points of interest.) Ideally you should check out another car and get a feel for how far down the hoses extend and duplicate this for your car. As for hoses, so far, I've never had to replace these on my car so I have no experience in dealing with this type of issue but if I had to, if the hoses were aged and not able to remain attached to the basin drains, or otherwise compromised I'd look into sourcing new hoses at the dealer parts department.

I don't think hose length comes into play here because it isn't something that can be adjusted. Your description sounds like a bare hose sticking out of the body somewhere which may be the case with older models as you say but in the 996 each end attaches into a fitting as seen below: one end connects to the sunroof drain and the other into what's described as a grommet. My hose barely reaches the grommet and that's where it disconnected. sunroof.gif Perhaps the design was updated because a pic of the new hose from Auto Atlanta shows what appears to be either a one piece hose with the grommet built in or else a different type of hose, or perhaps the pic is not representative of the actual product. It's only $36 so I may order one for each side and replace them, somehow... hose.jpg

BTW anyone else notice the menu bar at Auto Atlanta doesn't display all the choices with Firefox. With IE it shows pedal systems/levers, body, and electric in addition to the other choices. I knew I'd seen a menu item for body parts but couldn't find it (in Firefox) and it was driving me nuts.

OP, you might want to locate a dehumidifier at a tool rental place if you want to thoroughly dry out your interior. There are a number of small consumer-grade dehumidifiers that will fit inside and suck the moisture out of the carpet and padding.

I think Darrick had this problem recently, although his wasn't disconnected but pinched if my memory serves.

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I removed the carpet last weekend and set it up on sawhorses in my garage with a 36" industrial fan blowing on it for 5 days. It's dry. photo(17).JPG BTW I had to squeeze out the bulk of the water by placing towels under it stomping on it, then squishing out the nooks and crevices by hand with a towel to absorb as much water as would extract.

Yup, sounds like that would suffice.

I'm removing the headliner at the sides to allow access to the drain hose where it connects to the sunroof but I have a few questions for anyone who has done this: headliner.gif instructions.gif In step 2 it doesn't tell how to remove the pivoting sun visor support arm. I don't think I can lower the headliner without detaching this. In step 3 are the two screws described the ones next to the sunroof opening after the center trim piece is removed? I didn't see any plastic trim piece at "the front" and the screws are phillips head, not torx. To detach the headliner at the front along the windshield do I just pull down on it? This is something I definitely don't want to damage. Instructions say the sliding roof panel must be removed to remove the headliner but I just want to lower it at the sides. Possible?

Well I unclipped the side of the headliner and the drain hose is accessible, so I don't need to remove anything else. photo(14).JPG photo(16).JPG photo(15).JPG

Ordered 2 new hoses from my local dealer for a couple of dollars more than the online price. Should be here next week. I can't wait to get this thing back together and drive it after replacing my plugs and coils.

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Geez man, you joined in 2012 and you already have over 1700 posts. Don't you have anything better to do?

Oh, sunroof drains. I missed that I thought you were talking about the body water drains under the front trunk lid and on either side of the battery box. Anyhow, it reads like you are well on your way to getting the sunroof drain hoses sorted. May be too late now but a very handy tool for the home shop/garage is a nice wet/dry vacuum. Do not get a real small one, though. One comes in very handy in removing water from places it shouldn't be.

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I have two - a big one and a small one...

Picked up the new drain hoses and they look like the pic I posted - definitely redesigned as a single unit. Unfortunately I didn't have the chance to install this weekend. Anyone who has been following my recent travails remembers I recently replaced my clutch. I expected to feel a lighter pedal but it is as stiff as it has been since I bought it. After driving the green cab for Tom last week and feeling how easy that clutch was to operate I decided to check my clutch servo spring to see if it was the culprit. When I crawl under the dash and depress the clutch pedal the spring is loose in the canister and I'm pretty sure it isn't functioning. So I went ahead and ordered a replacement. Then I tried to remove the existing one and it appears whoever installed it put the pin in backwards so I can't remove it without removing the entire pedal and bracket. The rubber cover on my pedal is broken also so I'll have to replace them with the set from Rennline I've been wanting. Nothing else I can do. I also discovered my interior trim has been painted. I noticed the paint peeling off on the left end of the dash and around the keyhole. Interesting development and something else I have to correct. When looking at that I noticed my air vent is full of pieces of foam from somewhere deep in the bowels of the AC system. I've been noticing bits and pieces on the dash, in the seats, and on the carpet for several months now, so I guess it's decomposing. Not sure how to fix that yet.

Check this post on Renntech http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...the-procedure/

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I did. The passenger rear drain pipe was pinched, and had to have been that way from the factory. I had to yank all the carpet out and let it dry before I could put it back in. I also had to do the "put towels under it and stomp on it to soak up the water out of the foam" technique.

Quotes source post: 11181890

Thanks for the link.

Ordered a set of Rennline pedals - silver with red extensions - and a set of H&R Sport Springs from Pelican. The servo spring should be in today or tomorrow and I have a plan for how to install the right side drain hose without removing the dash/ac unit for access. That will really suck if I do have to remove it, but on the bright side at least it will allow me to disassemble it and fix the foam issue. My son graduated from college in December and was hired by Blizzard as a software engineer. He's moving to Irvine, Calif today so I'm leaving work early to check on the movers and then see him off. I'm really jealous - what a grand adventure awaits him! I can't wait to drive out and visit this summer...

Removed the clutch servo spring and it's broken into four pieces. No wonder my clutch was so stiff! photo(18).JPG I also think my clutch master cylinder is damaged. Take a look at this pic and notice the center shaft and the end where it's pinned to the pedal: photo(12).JPG Now take a look at a new unit: G99642317106.jpg I don't think the end is suppose to be separated from the shaft as mine is. Perhaps someone can verify this for me. As long as I'm in here this deep I might as well replace the clutch master cylinder for $62.50...

The original drain hose and fitting where it passes thru the door jamb: photo1.JPG The redesigned one piece hose fitting that attaches to the door jamb: photo3.JPG Be sure to add a little rubber safe lube on the end, then simply press into place until it pops into the groove. As for how to thread the new hose into place - you can do it the easy way or you can do it the way I did it. The easy way is to pull the old hose out of the fitting and tape the end of the new hose to it. Then pull the old hose up and out, taking the new hose along the same routing as the old one. It'll probably help to add some lube on the tape to facilitate passage like one would do pulling electrical wire. I knew I should do this but I "lost presence of mind and let go of the rope" as the old joke goes. I pulled out the old hose first so then I had to feed a wire down thru the dash opening which is not as easy as it sounds since the routing turns abruptly to the inside once it gets below the opening in the top of the dash. But after a few tries it feed down and I taped the new hose to the wire, lubed it up, and pulled it into place. photo4.JPG A word of caution while crawling around under the dashboard. That center console has sharp edges on it: photo.JPG This was the easy side to do. Now I have to tackle the passenger side. More to come, once I figure out how I'll do it...

fitting.jpg Fitting for the sunroof drain broke off when I tried to remove hose. I should have just cut the hose off, but the other side came off when I pulled. I hope I don't have to replace the entire frame - maybe (fingers crossed) the plastic piece is separate and can be replaced, however, as my luck has gone, I'll have to replace the whole thing. That's about $1500. I just can't catch a break with this thing.

Can it be glued back?

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I bought epoxy to glue it back but when I looked closer the piece it connects to has a big crack in it so I think it would be difficult. I will take it apart tomorrow and get a better look.

Try a super glue called Q bond. Stronger than epoxy especially on plastic and there's powder that comes with it to fill cracks. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/q-bond-new-adhesive-replace-jb-315496.html

Finally have the sunroof frame removed. The hardest part was pulling the headliner off of the frame around the opening - it is TIGHT! Here's a couple of pics of the crack in the water channel and where the fitting broke off. photo(6).JPG photo(5).JPG I removed the rear drain hoses using a pick to break it loose from the fitting. I'm not sure if I want to try to reuse the existing hoses - they're not leaking - or try to replace them while I have it apart. I need to explore and find where the drain end is accessed from before I decide, but it's not in my nature to put everything back together with the old hoses in place. I looked at removing the plastic section that incorporates the drain channels from the front of thr frame. It does have plastic clips that snap into place but even though it's manufactured as a separate piece I don't think it's designed to be removed or replaced. At any rate there is no part number for a replacement other than the entire frame. I've found several frames on ebay for around $300 with shipping vs. $1300 for a new one. I'll probably go with the used but I would rather have the new.

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Thanks for the link but I'm not sure this application is appropriate for the powder.

The powder is optional. Even the glue itself is super strong.

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I don't like to use superglue type glues very often. They seem to work great if one is repairing a broken handle on a cup and other simple, clean breaks that are easy to align and immobilize. I have not had much luck with more complicated repairs due to its short working time and the fact that I only get one fleeting chance to get it perfectly aligned and set. They're a great product for specific applications but I don't have those very often.

Understood and agree there are only some applications that work well. Just a shame to see you have to replace the whole thing just because of a small broken nipple. Now you have removed it, may as well fix it properly.

Installed the front right drain hose. I had to remove a section of the insulation to provide room to maneuver the fitting into the hole and it was still tough, but doable. I'll use a bit of spray adhesive to replace the insulation. photo(8).JPG It appears the rear drain hoses will not be that difficult to install after all (famous last words) At least I can reach down and feel the fitting where it passes through the sheet metal. The opposite end that attaches to the sunroof frame is so deformed from years attached to the fitting I'm not sure I would trust it to seal to the replacement frame. Anyway I couldn't see myself putting it back together after this much work without replacing the rear hoses also. photo(7).JPG What a mess! I guess my car has been officially demoted from DD to project car status. photo(9).JPG photo(10).JPG I hate taking interior trim apart, especially on an older car. The plastic becomes less resilient with age and at least one clip always breaks pulling the panel off. photo(12).JPG photo(11).JPG

I replaced the servo spring and the clutch master cylinder. I had to order a new feed hose since the plastic retainer clip broke. The feed hose connects to the brake master cylinder on one end and the CMS at the other. As soon as that comes in I put the frunk panels back on. photo(16).JPG The bottom hose attaches directly to the cylinder but the upper fitting is the end of a hose that attaches to the top of the cylinder under the dash. Just pull it out with the cylinder, leaving it attached, then replace or move to the new cylinder on the bench - it's easier. photo(15).JPG More: Replacing clutch master cylinder

I've read several posts during my research where folks have had trouble removing the accelerator pedal so I thought I'd post a couple of pics showing how it fits. With the carpet in place it's a very tight fit but essentially just push in and up and it should pop out of the grove that retains it. The first pic is the metal panel the pedal mounts to. In the second pic one can see at the bottom of the pedal (right side of image) the piece that fits into the cutout on the metal panel and at the top the circular alignment projection as well as where the hold down bolt goes. photo(14).JPG photo(13).JPG

I bought myself a couple of goodies for all the trauma I've been through: H&R sport springs photo(18).JPG Rennline 4 piece pedal set photo(17).JPG

Just bought a sunroof frame off ebay for $180 shipped. It came off a 2003 996. $_1.JPG Should be here by next Friday...

Picked up the replacement rear hoses which are the same as the front, same part number also, and the replacement clutch feed hose. The sunroof frame is scheduled for delivery tomorrow - I hope it comes in the morning.

I was prepared for any drips this time, even though I had emptied the brake master cylinder. photo(20).JPG When I pulled off the hose fluid poured out like the cylinder was full. Upon closer inspection I realized the fluid reservoir is divided into two chambers. Those sneaky engineers. photo(19).JPG Imagine that. Emptied second chamber, removed hose adding a bit of lubricant where it passes through the rubber grommet. If you don't it will be almost impossible to pull out. Same goes for installing the new hose. I used the Porsche stuff left over from the AOS install. I figure if it is OK for the rubber o-ring it is probably safe for the plastic hose. And now, on to the rear drain hoses...

Fedex never showed on Saturday with the frame so I didn't get anything else done. This weekend I have to drive to San Antonio for a wedding so I probably will not have an opportunity to install anything. Bummer...

Looks to be in perfect condition but I'll reserve judgement unit it is installed and function verified. Certainly well packed... photo-2.JPG

I replaced the rear drain hoses. They were much easier to access than the fronts. Pictured is the old fitting and the rubber grommet that passes through the sheetmetal. Both have to be removed and the new fitting with grommet replaces the old grommet. photo(21).JPG

The trim panel for the sunroof has these panels that fit into the right and left edge. I forgot to unclip them when I disassembled the roof and trim panels from the replacement frame and one of them broke. Another stupid mistake I won't make again. I'm not sure if I can get a replacement but I do know that the panels I removed from my car didn't have either one installed. I could tell the panels had been removed before and I guess they were not reinstalled. Go figure. The inserts have a groove that fits in a channel along the frame rail. Their function remains a mystery but I guess they're not essential judging by their absence all these years in the original sunroof. Perhaps someone can enlighten me. photo(25).JPG photo(26).JPG photo(22).JPG photo(23).JPG

I have extra panels now - it looks like silver MY2003 - and a interior trim panel in dark grey (black?), whatever the standard color is. I guess I'll post them in the FS section or ebay... photo(24).JPG

Ok, here's the skinny on the batwings. Talked to the dealer and he says they call them "the shields" and they usually leave them out because after maintenance they inevitably get jammed up in the tracks and the car comes back, so the techs just started leaving the out. He also was at a loss to explain their function along with everyone else who asks the question. He said he could order new ones but leaving them out doesn't have any negative consequences. Problem solved.

Sunroof frame is in, body panel installed and adjusted but when I close the sunroof the deflector will not retract. I can push it down manually and close the sunroof but it will not retract automatically. I followed all the steps in the service manual, googled it, searched Renntech, tried the relearn procedure which incidentally will not work at this point. When I use the tilt button the roof opens but closes immediately, it does not stay open. Something is not right or outta' whack. I'm at a loss here guys. Any help is appreciated. photo(27).JPG

Well I took everything back out and bent down the arms that hold the ends of the deflector shaft. Also one side of the shaft had popped out of its holder so I pressed it back into place. I reinstalled everything and tried to reteach the open close sequence but all it did was tilt and close, tilt and close. It'll slide open but I have to hold the switch. I don't know if it's something I did or didn't do but at this point I don't care. I hardly ever use it and it closes and it will drain. If at some point I want the sunroof bad enough to pay $1300 for the frame and $800 to install it that option is always available. I reinstalled the headliner - boy is that a pain to get in around the sunroof opening. I took the carpet to a detail shop and had it professionally cleaned and will install it tomorrow. After that the seats, console/shifter and interior trim. Then I have to bleed the clutch and brakes and check for leaks. After sitting for 16 months I need to clean and polish the paint and headlights again.

The seat belt adjusters can be a pain to reassemble if all the pieces fly apart when removing it. For some reason Porsche says if the assembly comes apart during removal it should be replaced - why I don't know (not a safety issue). It took me a while to figure out how the spring fit but in the end I reinstalled them and they work just fine. photo 2.JPG photo 1.JPG

Pedals installed, carpet professionally cleaned and reinstalled, clutch bled, paint clayed, polished, and waxed, headlights buffed out (they were horribly yellowed and cloudy) and ready to rock. I didn't install the springs yet - I want to install new monoball shock mounts at the same time. photo(33).JPG photo(32).JPG