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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHshock/struts and muffler DIY replace
Leading reported evidence
Replace block (head)
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Leading evidence: 'Replace block (head)' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect sides of the sway bar' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used dishwashing liquid to allow for easier installation.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
1 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T122219Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
New owner of a 99 C2 Cab with 175k miles on it. Exterior and interior are immaculate. Had intermix and they replaced block (head).
So looks good but drove absolutely terribly. Felt like would bounce off the road, and was loud with the worst vibrations this side of a ferrari. Found a donor car at a dismantler with 28k miles on it. Bought both mufflers and all 4 corners suspension.
So, step 1, replaced motor mounts. Accidentally ordered only 1 so now half of motor leans down
Second one will be here Monday. Then replaced mufflers. If anyone is looking to do this, could not be easier. Unbolt/loosen the horizontal clamp, then remove 3 13mm bolts on the vertical bracket. Muffler will slide right out. Must removed rear wheels as allows you to reinstall the muffler from a bit further back. Couple tips: if the large clamp (2 18mm bolts) is difficult to move, spray with WD40 and let sit overnight. Makes a big difference. I used dishwashing liquid to allow for easier installation.
The shock assemblies are really easy also. Everyone says the fronts are more difficult. I disagree. Easier access to upper mount. Basically just remove the two brake electronic things on either side of the wheel carrier (10mm), pull the rubber piece of the back of the strut bracket. After removing the sway bar bolt and the upper mounting bolts, the whole assembly can be pulled down and out. I did not need to remove the caliper. Also did not need an alignment as marking the location of the 3 nuts on top allows perfect realignment. Of course I was using a stock replacement so would be different for aftermarket and what not.
The rears were a pain to align the lower shock piece and getting access to the upper mount. Basically put the top in service mode, or 50% back so that you can pull the rear top back. Theres a good thread somewhere with details. It makes sense once you get in there.
Anyways, wanted to post this in case it may provide a small bit of help to anyone else doing these things. I have air tools but didnt need as I was only replacing the assemblies, not taking apart with spring compressor and what not. Sorry I dont have a better pic.
Additional directions I followed:
1. Remove the shroud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. t-20
2. Loosen the 18mm sway bar bolt that is in strut and remove
3. Loosen and remove the nuts that connect abs wires and brake line so you can move the arm more up and down. You might have to take out the caliper off the hub.
4. remove the 3 13mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body.
5. Push down the arm and the strut will be in the wheel well.
6. this is the hard part push down the strut and pull it towards you to pull out of the wheel well. Becareful not to hit your fender`. You might need to remove the 18 mm blot that conects the cross arm in the front to the main A arm so the arm has more movement. I did not need to.
7. once cleared you can slide out the strut from the spindle assembly and prepare the new one.
8. Remove the 21mm nut on top of the strut. Becareful I used a impact air wrench and push your weight down so the spring dosenot pop up in your face. The stock spring are not that strong so you can do this. Pay attention to how it comes appart. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut( bumpstop washer housing) and assemeble back wards. The new springs are shorter so the assemble may not have any tension.
9. If your car has Xenon lights remove the little sensor nuts that is hook up to the A arm. This is in the driver side.
Rear
1. Remove the long 18mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm.
2. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar. 17mm open end and 15mm nut the bar should swing easy on the mounts.
3.Use pry bar, screwdriver to force the shock of its mount.
4. Go in the car remove the pannel behind the rear seat. It has no clips.
5. Remove the 3 15mm nuts to drop the strut. Once the strut is droped you can prepare the new one. It is similar to preparing the front. Use the new bump stops. The nut on top is 18MM.
6. install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten yet.
7. place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. It kind of hard. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align. Use a screw driver to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you can push the bolt through. Once through assemble every thing back.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
