Build Log: NineEreven Turbo NB

I am creating this thread to consolidate everything I am doing going NA-T and track conversion. I want to separate it from my intro thread in case people ever want to search it. The goal is 425+ whp in streetable power that I can take to the track. This will be a pic heavy thread (FYI) with updates and questions, so stay tuned if I hit a snag haha. Parts List: Engine: TPC Tune - Installed TPC Turbo - Installed TPC Exhaust Manifolds - Installed TPC WasteGate - Installed TPC DP/Exhaust - In Parts Bin - Awaiting Muffler Removal TPC intake hoses - Installed TPC water>Air IC - Installed Oil Feed Lines - Installed - (minor oil leak on return, working on fix) Colder 996tt plugs - Installed Serpentine Belt - Installed GT3 front 3rd radiator - Installed Replace OIL and Coolant Fluids - In Parts Bin Transmisison: Upgraded Clutch - Undecided (Recommendations?) Custom SSK - R&D phase Interior: Sparco Harness Bar - Awaiting Purchase 4pt Harnesses - Awaiting Purchase Race Seats (Undecided) Suspension: D2R Coilovers (Installed) D2R Endlinks and bushings (Installed) Aero: 997GT3 Front Bumper - Awaiting Paint 996GT3RS Rear Decklid and Wing - Awaiting Paint Carbon Splitter - Molded, awaiting cut and mounting (After Paint) Wheel & Tire: Wheels - Undecided Tires - Nitto NT01 Whats creating a thread without posting some pics? Here is the car awaiting installation, it has been torn apart with no intake pieces or exhaust pieces left. First steps are to drop motor and remove muffler brackets, install larger injectors, change plugs, and remove a damn bolt i broke in the exhaust side of the head when removing the heaers! Here is a majority of the kit that came into my work, you can see the molded carbon behind it that will become the front splitter. and the snail going on... More to come later today

awesome.

Err are you doing a simple bolt on?

Will no doubt be an interesting thread.

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Thanks, should be a lot of fun Yes and no, most of the parts came from a bolt on kit because it makes sense to pick those up. Custom parts or one off turbo bits for this car are pretty hard to find. I will eventually be cutting up the kit, removing cats, mufflers, more boost, and going e85. The first "phase" as you could call it is getting the car running on 93 octane with the bolt on kit first.

following this build.

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Same!

WOW that's a big DIY project with lots of parts, but the end results will be incredible for sure... Is the turbo just bolt on or do you need to also work on the engine compression?

I noticed you speced a harness bar and 4 point harnesses. If you are going to track the car most organizations require 5-6 point harnesses. These would provide anti-submarine protection in the event of a crash. If you just plan on street driving the car be sure your harnesses are DOT approved in case you are ever pulled over. Also using a harness bar instead of at least a roll bar would allow the roof to collapse while you are held in your seat which would subject you to severe neck/spinal injury. I know roll bars/cages are a pain to use in a car you drive on the street but if you plan on using harnesses and race seats have rollover protection. Several forum members run their cars with just a harness bar ( as have I in the past) but I have seen damage first hand from a rollover at a trackday and I would not take that chance. Track driving is all about risk management keep that in mind as you proceed with your project. Looks like you will soon have a fast fun car!

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Thanks guys! I opted out of the LS swap for now (I bugged white out about it) but will always revisit it come worst case scenario lol I am leaving the engine compression factory for now. I will in time when I upgrade cams and pull the heads, but I dont want to get wrapped up in some build project that will take months to do. Incremental changes so I dont grow old of the car like I have with ones in my past. I have future intentions of going to a full cage, however this season I am only doing a handful of track events it isnt such a priority. The roll bar, seats and harnesses are mainly to prevent me from sliding around in the stock seats and keep me strapped in better. I will look into doing a 5 or 6 point harness for the track, but I ran 4pt in my M3 and no one ever said anyting. Just mostly DE events. As for many things, I dont usually bring them up until I am ready to pull the trigger on them or have questions. I dont like to say "yea I am going to do XYZ" and then take 5 years to do them. I try not to bench race if you know what I mean, and so I dont bench "mod" either haha.

Finally something worth following.

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Hopefully I will have some updates here tonight. I got a UPS notice of a package delivered today!

Should be interesting. Porsche tried turbo charging these inexpensive m96 engines but they would always always fail and they had to continue using the expensive Mezger until the 9A1 was designed and tested on eventually made it in the 997.2 tt.

Initially most of the guess work was taken out by TPC, so I dont plan on hitting too many snags early on. I think going to E85 with a custom tune will be the first hurdle that isnt a common move for these cars. I MAY stay with meth and go that route mainly for more "safety/breathing" room.

Bisimoto has had success with getting big power out of the M96. Their twin-turbo M96-powered 964 puts down around 700 horsepower. Of course, it's far more than just a plain-Jane M96 with some turbos strapped on, but just sayin'.

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One of the most gorgeous set ups of all time right there. Due to temps behind the wheel well, I would love to relocate the turbo WAY down the road to the area under the license plate, use braided carbon/kvlar as an air duct/shield and expose it like that. Thats item 10,003 down on the list haha.

Looking like it's coming along pretty good. I'd be interested to see how long the D2R CO's last. I've yet to see anyone report back on long term reliability on some of the Asian made CO's on the 996 particularly. Hate to be a downer but I don't think you can get more than a few laps in with that turbo setup in a track environment at a time. Even the factory turbo's have a hard time sustaining multiple hard laps without having temp issues and such. This is one of the reasons why NA is preferred for track duties. For DE's, I'm sure it will be fine though. Are you planning on getting wideband and EGT gauges? If you're not upgrading to solid mounts, even an aftermarket knock meter might come in handy. Hopefully this will be wrapped up in a decent amount of time. I'm still following a couple other members and they're still not done yet.

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Yes, I am getting a wideband and boost gauge. I would like to try and start the car in less than two weeks. I am dropping the motor this sunday and going from there. As for the track, yes, i know heating is a major issue. Cayman guys destroy their oil feed lines to the turbo all the time if they are not careful. I am currently trying to think of a good way to feed air into the turbos. Luckily I work at a place that sells composite material. I am thinking of making some sort of air scoop underneath the car that routes air to the turbos and then have it exit through a "Turbo Style" rear bumper. It would take some time to create from composite but I have already started designing an aluminum style one.

Personally I love the RUF CTR style NACA ducts on the sides.

Looks cool but not quite my taste, have you ever seen them on a WC 911?

I don't know who makes these scoops, but I've seen them on a couple cars:

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Actually NA is preferred because it delivers power evenly and is easier to drive. Turbos don't having any issues racing. GT2 class Porsche's were all turbos until the RSR replaced them due to other manufactures like Lister making them uncompetitive. Superchargers are harder to keep cool. Though I bet the Chevy engineers have figured a way around that with the new C7 Z06

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Uneven power delivery was true awhile ago but no longer an issue with modern technology. I should've clarified on the turbo not being suitable for racing, I was pertaining to street based cars. F1 and Indy had turbocharged cars running on the ragged edge and driven hard but those were race turbo engines and you'd be lucky to make them last more than a race in some cases. It will be interesting to see all the new "M" cars with 6 cylinder turbos compete in various racing series like the Touring or GT World Challenge Series. I know the Nissan GTR in the Blancpain series went with a NA 8 vs the normal turbo 6.

Ok, So i dropped the motor, I am replacing the plugs and serpentine belt in the AM. However I am missing the oil feed line from the block to the turbo. Do any other TPC users know the specs on that line? I called TPC but they are out at Sebring this weekend so that may hold me up. size, connection to turbo and connection to block, and length. replacing the plugs, and then the injectors tomorrow. Started attaching some of the exhaust manifold. Also, some things I need to approach in the future and am curious because the TPC instruction don't mention anything about these... These two things need relocated, did you guys just unbolt them and move them back? The picture A is in the way of the intake pipe/MAF pipe. Picture B is in the way of the intercooler. A: B: Finally, Where is a good place to splice/hook up the power for the water pump? I am sure I can dig around and find one but if there is something better than what meets the eye I would love the know about it. I see where I need to start the loop into the pump but do I just run it right back into the same place indicated by the blue arrows? so it would go Out that pipe, to the pump, then from the pump into the IC, then from the IC back into the inlet (end?) pipe...?

I am kinda curious because it seems as though the third radiator and IC are on their own "loop", Just trying to figure out how they suggest configuring it because there seems to be more than on way to do it. I thought the pump was only to feed the IC and you connection all three radiators in a chain up front. It seems that is not the case and that the 3rd radiator has its own lines run through the car. hmmm.

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I bet you haven't seen those in any other car, because I only did one set. But similar ones do exist, at least by RUF and 9ff. And one Swede has made his own version too.

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I am going to do go center exit exhaust on a cup rear bumper, with one of these in the side... https://www.track-star.net/store/mer...cts-type-2-29/ not those EXACT ones but very similar

That Bisi build makes me happy in the pants... good luck w/ this build.

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+1 !! to date only porsche has the formula for turbo motors on the track... surprised to hear that Nissan went with V8 on their GTR... that should tell you something... I too am curious about the v6 turbo M3 coming out.. at the end of the day if you focus on cooling and monitor temps I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun keeping your sessions to 20 min max on hot days good luck with the build

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Thanks! I can only hope all goes well. It is a fun process but I am so anxious that I am starting to rush it. I need to keep calm and enjoy the process. Hard to do at times when the light at the end of the tunnel is so close. Thanks, I have some good ideas on how to keep it nice and cool. Once my friends lift is finished being installed I will lift the car up and rout some cooling ducts to the hotside.

Instead of guessing, why not wait until the vendor is available to answer all those questions? What's the big rush?

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If someone knew, I was going to start running the lines and everything. Harris at TPC gave me some info I need to get started on the loop. Ill give them a call on monday about some things that aren't mentioned in the directions I have (which is supposed to be from TPC themselves). A new update... The turbo is on! Also, one of the most difficult tasks is done as well, the injectors. Those were an absolute pain in the *** and definately took two people to do. Edit: I also today got the new 996TT spark plugs in, and the third radiator installed and mounted. I have yet to run the coolant lines through the tunnel, and will tackle that during the week sometime. The only thing I have left to raise the motor back up into the car is the oil feed line into the turbo. I will probably pick one up this week.

Tom from TPC got with me, answered some questions. The loop is in its own circuit

2K for a tune? damn it we need a standalone for these badboys

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That's nuts, especially since your car wasn't strapped on the dyno for a custom one. For that price, you can fly Bisi in and swap out the factory ECU for AEM and have him go to town on your local dyno.

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Exactly, which I will do down the road but it is a good starting point for now. I pulled off the underbody panels today and am going to run the coolant lines to the third radiator today. I also picked up a 5' -3 braided line for the oil feed, I can install that and raise the motor back up. Getting close, time to tap the freeze plug hole and and load up the oil!

Ok, so the oil feed line is installed, and I will be tapping the block for the oil return line this weekend. Now comes wiring the water pump into the car for the IC setup. All the water lines are run to the front of the car which completely sucked and I mangled my hands in the process of doing so. I will be raising the motor back up on friday and hopefully will do a test start sometime this monday or tuesday!

Well, boys and girls... She lives yet again. I just started her up about half an hour ago. Tapping the oil return line was so sketchy! Now that I have many of the bits in place, I want to take it down again for a bit to do a few things better. Ill start taking some more pics but I just thought I would update those that care. The car does run!

Awesome!

pics!

I'd be interested in seeing the a/f data logs on the $2k tune when you're ready to start driving it. Running is only the first step Grasshoppa.

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Ordering a UEgo tomorrow and will put that on before driving it or even thinking about going WOT. Also I am getting rid of the muffler and just going to run a straight pipe out the back of the turbo. I will take a video of the AFR's when I take it out for a spin and post the video for ya. RoflBrothel is my instagram and usually pics and videos hit that first before they do here,

Ok, so i have mocked up the exhaust, so it will get welded soon. Had to make sure it fit ok with the bumper on. I also got all the piping minus the MAF pipe secured and in place. Mock up: The only major things I have left to do is wire the intercooler water pump and fill up the intercooler system with coolant. Also the oil return line where it taps into the block has a small leak that I am struggling to get rid of... Ill take her for a test drive once I get those sorted out!

996 narrow body turbo build - YouTube

lookin good man

Thanks man!

Is this a new or a used kit?

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I bought the kit with 300 miles on it from Flat6.

Is it missing any parts or the exhaust supposed to be held up by hose clamps?

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Actually you should've seen the first gen TPC kits.im not sure if the current kits still come with the hokey dryer vent style hose or not for the intake. These kinds of things don't belong on a $10k kit IMO.

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Yes they do, and they are orange now. I have it on my car for now because it is flexible but it will be changing it very soon. After the break in oil change, i am goign to strip some of the "Why the hell does a $10K kit come with this crap" out and putting in better, more permanent solutions. Yes, it was missing a few odd and end pieces. The exhaust is held up via clamps that wrap around the muffler. Well, I deleted the muffler so I am in the process of setting up my own hangers. A buddy of mine has a welder at his shop that we are going to do it all there, but that requires getting the car out of my garage which I can't do because of all the snow. Once we get a nice day or two I can get the thing out and to the shop!

This is really starting to give me ideas... What all exactly does this kit come with? I think I could fabricate one myself pretty easily...

Its not that easy. I've built a simple supercharger setup for my 928 and even that took time. Although most of this turbo kit seems to be off the shelf parts, the other custom stuff will take time, effort and money to fabricate. The intercooler seems custom (maybe not the core but the end tanks do).

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I'm not scared of a little welding and fab work.

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First off, it is actually quite easy for this kit. The biggest thing is you would have to tune based off what changes you have, which im sure there are multiple routes you cuold take. As for the hardware, a 60-1 would give you similar results if you stay below 7lbs. The silicone piping you could just buy the difficult pieces from TPC individually. Iw ould also recommend their intercooler. Everything else is pretty generic. The kit includes: 2x Turbo manifolds 1x Cross pipe from manifold A to manifold B before mating to the turbo. 1x wastegate and w/ exit pipe 1x "TPC" turbo 1x downpipe with muffler 6x 6XXlb injectors. Deka 1x Water pump for intercooler 1x front third radiator for intercooler Multiple coolant hoses to create custom loop 1x water to air intercooler 6x Colder plugs from 996TT Silicone Intake hoses Air Filter Maf pipe (Which I have an extra one if you ask nicely for it ) If you are curious about installation I can send you pictured and written instructions There are some other odds and ends but that is the majority of the kit. If you know someone who can fab and weld, you could do it for half the price. IMO, Find a used kit cheap and upgrade like me. You can find ones with less than 5K miles for like 4-5K. That doesn't include the tune though.

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You bought a $2k tune, right? Physically, the turbo kit is easy on most any cars. It's the tuning that's usually the hardest to get "right" and refined imo. One a 20k motor, I'm sure the people that buy these kits are buying the tune and reliability of a tuned system first and foremost. I miss the Honda days where long blocks were $800/piece and you can tune to your hearts content and really push the boundaries and not have to worry as much.

You mean to tell me that this kit does not include a tune, the kit manufacture sells the tune as an option?

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When you buy the kit from TPC they include it. I bought it from Flat6 and it didn't include the tune because it was technically second hand even though it only had 300 miles.

Since your car is now a turbo narrow body car with AWD, I've named it for you: GT faux or maybe GT 4uax

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Some guy uses that on his silver vivid turbo car. I know I am getting a custom plate this year and wanted to do something like "NTA BTLE" or "GT3 LOL" "BRAAPSH" lol idk something funny

My thread on another forum for my old C4S was titled "My Glorified Beetle".

The tune is $2K from the manufacturer of this kit?

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I get the beetle thing a lot. It is like the type of joke everyone thinks is funny but you hear it about 30 times a day . Just shy of that, yes. They charge a "server" fee if you don't buy the kit directly from them, new. I think it is a bit extreme but I totally understand why.

Update: Water pump for IC is installed. I ran a line from the battery back to the rear seats area and am using termal rings to connect all electronics back there. I wired it via switch for the on/off capabilities until I get my meth kit. I am going to eventually hav eit set up so it is off when the key is no longer in acc. position but I still have a manual override switch when it is no. If idling in parking lots or letting it warm up, I dont want to have it running

Why don't you want to run the IC pump when warming up or idling? Last thing you need is to forget to turn it on. Running when the engine is running isnsort of a fail safe setup don't you think?

Those water pumps are pretty robust if you have a good one, I'd just let it run whenever the engine is on. Or, you can add a pressure switch to the intercooler piping that will turn the pump on whenever boost is built up, but turning the pump on and off all the time is going to be harder on it than just letting it run.

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I think you guys are overthinking the switch haha. Basically, it will act completely normal once all wired up, the pump will not receive power until the key is in the accessory. Then I will wire the switch so the pump runs all the time but I have the manual override if I want. In an effort to get the car going and fill the pump and bleed the system, it will initially be on its own circuit where yes, I could accidentally leave it on or forget to turn it on. Very unlikely and will probably only be like that for a week or so. As for the meth, I am investigating e85 vs doing meth at the moment and will decide then.

Gr8 thread! I wana one! Installed. Tuned. I go away for a week and come back and it is all done. And I want it for $3500 and payments. Anybody????

I bet if that was the case there would be a lot more turbo narrow body cars running around haha

What is your target budget for this peoject?

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I went into this choosing not to make a budget because I knew it would take more than whatever I budgeted to get it where I want it. As it stands, with what I have on order and in the car already, i could have an e46 M3 (high mileage ofc) parked next to my 996. The project is going to take me a long time to get it where I want it and will always be a tinker toy after that. Someone could realistically piece together this kit if used for half of what it is new.

I don't get the secrecy behind the cost. If it will cost roughly $5K, $10K or more just say it. I'm not here to judge or attack, just interested what this project will roughly cost.

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Oh haha cost and budget are two things in my mind. I thought you were wanting to know if I was trying to budget this! Motor prep: Timing Belt - Can't remember $ Colder Plugs - $60-$80 for a set Water Pump - $300-$400 Tensioner - Can't remember $ Kits used range from $3500-$6500 depending on whats included. Mine was about $4500 without ECU tune and some small parts. My kit DID NOT INCLUDE: Couplers Oil Feed Line: 5ft stainless steel braided -3 Oil return line in braided stainless steel -8 Oil return AN fitting -8 to 1/2" NPT Air Filter Hardware (Nuts & Bolts) 2.5" piping in a few spots Gaskets It also did not include the basemap tune which I said after shipping is $1750. My ad on mods that I wanted and for some, felt were required were: Wideband and Boost Gauges = ~$300 Gauge Pod = $50 Misc. Wiring pieces = $50 Muffler delete = $100 Gaskets Oil Filters and Oil: $175 If you do the install yourself, there is obviously no labor. That doesn't include things like some tools you may not have for the project which my garage was quite limited as a lot of stuff is packed up still. So all in all with a car that can just now move under its own power, safely drive and be monitored: somewhere between $8K and 9K. I imagined I could do it somwhere around 6K but overshot it by 30% or so. Again, that is to do the motor the "right" way and doing it yourself for the most part.

I think this is great. If you can do it safely for < $10K and get into 96TT territory - I say go for it!

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I could do the Turbonator for that amount. Hell, I'll even throw in the interfooler and "adjustable" electronic blow off valve. You never specified power levels and such for the price...

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It still isn't as refined as a 996tt i believe but it will be better in my mind because I dont drive it everyday and will mostly do time attacks with it. A 996TT can run much longer on a track and will be easier to drive day to day but I don't want a car that feels like a car, I want something that feels like a race car for the street. I WANT the clutch to fight back... I WANT it to be loud and to receive a full experience from the car.

I heard that.

Well... It is that time now... I just drove the car, seems to idle great, and cruising around seems no big deal. It feels a bit hesitant as it builds into boost/full boost (3K-4.5K rpm range or so) and then gets smooth from about 5K to redline. My IS300 when it ran rich had this similar behavior using a piggyback system, and leaning it out with a proper tune did wonders. Here is where it gets interesting though. The wideband is placed post cat and post turbo on the downpipe. Now post cats shouldn't have a change on the reading too much, at most maybe .5 on the reading scale. However it at some parts is off the scale lean as in 17/1 or higher. Idle is about 15/1 on the wideband. So the wideband is telling me opposite of how I think it feels and is driving. Thoughts? commends? Maybe a leak? I drove it on my lunch break and didnt have much time to really dive into anything. Just cruised around for a bit and then put it away. Also, its throwing a CEL which you may think is no big deal but TPC claims that it doesn't throw a CEL. So ill pull it and make sure it isn't going into some limp mode type deal.

no way to put a bung pre-cat? reminds me of good times with custom turbo setups

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Its pretty tight precat. The exhaust manifolds connect into a single pipe then almost immediately is the primary o2 sensor followed almost immediately by the cat. You can get it in there, but not verticle like you should to prevent condensation from settling on the sensor. Honestly, for a set up like this, it has been fairly easy. Many of the problems that come with an NA-T set up but overall pretty straight forward. I want to do some homework before I narrow anything down to the tune, because I am sure that isn't it (at this point at least). EDIT: i will also be going catless in a month or two

I would go pre-cat for a wideband.

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I stated earlier than I would love to do the wdeband precat but for now it isn't an option. A: precats will only read 3 cylinders B: no way to place the wideband precat appropriately C: I will be catless in a month so you want to have the wideband post turbo for a catless system. I am going to pull the CEL, smoke test the exhaust system, and do a once over on everything.

I did another run with the car last night. It drove out of boost great, however building boost it was still stuttering. I spoke with Tom at TPC racing and he was very nice and great help. Without giving him any logging information, we narrowed it down to a possible vacuum error with the lines that run out of the throttle body there near the plenum, or a dirty maf which I will clean later tonight. I pulled the CEL code and it is giving me a P0154 which means "no activity" on the precat o2 sensor, but other places says it is a "too lean" or "too rich" code. I will check voltage on the o2 sensors and make sure they are operating normally while I am at it.

As others pointed out, I wouldn't trust a post-cat reading. I understand your logic on why it is where it is, but until you remove the cat I wouldn't pay much attention to it. If it was my car, I wouldn't drive it without a wideband reading and/or the tuning necessary to get the A/F ratio correct. That means removing the cat as soon as possible. I enjoyed the hell out of a turbo supra for years, and running a modified turbo car, especially an NA-T, without a good A/F reading is just begging for trouble. I saw so many people get excited after a turbo installation and succumb to the temptation of driving it before tuning it....boom. Best of luck! -Shawn

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I agree with what you say in some aspect. I am not doubting what you say, I just want to say this in efforts to keep discussion on the topic. I spoke with Tom from TPC and he says they run their widebands post cats and it barely hs any changed on the readings. They are high flow performance cats and might change the reading by .25 or .5 overall at most. He says on their tune with cats they get about a 12-13.0 reading on their cars/tunes. I dont think ditching the cats, will have any effect on how the car is driving with the hesitation, especially since the CEL (P0154) is telling me pre-cat that the car is too rich/lean. I am going to start small with cleaning the MAF and checking the plugs and going from there, I was just curious if there are any other suggestions to look through because I really didnt touch anything major on the car. The only things that changed from the original set up are: -Plugs -Injectors -(the turbo obviously was added) -Tune Everything else really was just plumbing for intake and exhaust stuff and electrical wiring for the IC pump. If the car was running perfectly before this, and those are the only things changed since, I think it would narrow it down to those obviously. I can't think of anything I would have unplugged or rerouted because the kit really did just basically bolt on.

Disconnect the wastegate so the turbo is not boosting and see if the problem still exists.

That's interesting information from TPC on the wideband readings. I'm surprised, but they obviously have a lot more experience than I do on this platform. I read that you're using their tune. I assume the injectors you used are the ones the tune was based on? I like Imo's suggestion. It's a good sanity check.

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Yea Deka injectors are what they supply with the tune. 60#/6XXcc injectors. Forgive my asking about removing the wastegate, but wont the car run like garbage without the wastegate?

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Wastegate controls boost pressure. As boost pressure rises, it opens to redirect exhaust around the turbine housing. If you shim it open, it will prevent the turbo from spooling, so you will basically be running in naturally aspirated mode. This will help you see if the issue is boost related, or something else.

Oh yeah, you have an external wastegate. Just remove it, so you have a big hole in the exhaust, it will prevent the turbo from spooling. Don't just disconnect the vacuum line, that would prevent it from opening, which would make the turbo boost out of control.

Hey Capt, sorry i should have explained more. I know how the wastegate system and all that works, but not sure how that could help me narrow down the problem. all it does is remove boost from the equation but I think boost is what the source of the problem is. I know I can't tell until I try it, but what I am saying is I am pretty sure from what I can tell with the car already, it will drive fine out of boost.

I figured you knew how it worked, but now those playing along at home can know also. The reason you'd want to try it is because it will confirm that boost is causing the problem. If you can get higher into the RPMs without issue with no boost, then you know it is related to airflow. Of course, there are a bunch of boost-related issues that could be the problem. You could have a boost leak somewhere after the MAF (intake manifold, intercooler piping, etc.). The MAF could be dirty/bad. Something could be up with the fuel system. Tune could be bad. Lots of things.

My guesses were literally all the things you just listed. Looks like I will have a busy weekend. Hope I can get it sorted out soon. There is a huge event march 21st that I want to be able to go down and woop on some unsuspecting cars.

Do a systematic check of everything by first removing boost. You'll be amazed what you think might be the problem and what will end up beeing the actual problem. Don't guess, confirm everything to be 100% sure it isn't a contributing factor. Do only way to do this is if you systematically go through everything one at a time. I'm not sure if you can show up in a 996 and suprise anyone. Most people expect a 911 to be fast.

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I started from theMAF and worked my way to the exhaust tips. 1) secondary air pump located in left side of bay was unplugged. Oops. 2) some how the o2 sensors on both sides of the cats were very loose. I could spin then with my hand loose. That I think I owe to a buddy helping me. 3) the big one - there was a rip in te hose after the MAF before te turbo letting unmetered air into the car. It was a small 1.5" rip or so but in sure that had a lot to do with it. I am still looking through everything. Plugs look good, no black or white build up, injectors don't show any leaking, and I don't see anything else major. I do have a small oil leak on the right side of the car that only leaks when the car is running. It's in the top near the alternator area. Thoughts?

this item on my car was unplugged as well, it had gotten knocked loose when the intake hose was installed. Anyone know what it does?

That's the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge. And that tear in the intake piping is definitely your problem.

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It was kind of a small tear. This is a 3.5" pipe (i replaced it with a silicone hose) and the tear is about big enough to pass a nickel through. You think a tear that small could throw off the AFR THAT much?

Oh, the tear is pre-turbo? I think it's still enough to cause an issue, but a hole like that would definitely cause issues if that was a pressurized hose. I take it you haven't had a chance to drive the car again yet?

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Nope, I haven't. The silicone hose gets here in 3 days then Ill give her another whirl. Snow should be gone by then. I am still looking through. It is post MAF and pre turbo in terms of location. So the air is unmetered and under vacuum during boost. Those ducts suck and I planned to replace them anyways I just wanted to verify functionality of the kit and it seems those were the weak links. Anyone buying the kit should ditch them asap and not even bother testing with them. BTW your drop looks great. Saw pics on IG

Ok, I got the car together last night after picking up the pieces from the paint booth. I had all the maple wood in my car painted black as well because that wood trim is just god awful. It looks absolutely incredible in person. I can't wait to go out and get some real pictures instead of the crappy camera phone pics.

Looks great man!!!

Can't wait to see some proper pics!

This has nothing to do with the car but I highly recommend The Eagle bar/restaurant downtown Cincy. When I visit I got there - the fried chicken is unbelievable.

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Thanks. I want to take it to my local cars and coffee this saturday so Hopefuly I can snag some pics of it out of the garage finally. Then I am heading down with a few buddies badass cars to Water By The Bridge and you can expect me to ***** out photos of it from there. I live basically downtown. I will definately check that place out. I am surprised I haven't heard of it. hmmm

I drove the car again last night. It drove beautifully!!! Boosted and had perfect AFR's throughout the entire powerband. There was a local gathering of about 80+ cars so I decided to swing by. Ill throw up some pics when I get them from other people. Some girl took a picture of my car and a turbo freaks group on facebook ended up posting it up. Glad to see the car getting some love after a long lonely winter. I appreciate everyones help on here! Lastly, there is one last minor issue for me to work out. The car randomly died while idling on me twice last night. The only thing I changed from last times were intake piping and I reconnected my secondary air pump. I THINK TPC deletes those pumps but I never saw them state it. I am going to call them today but is that a possibility?

Independent dyno test and 1/4 mi time(particularly trap speed) to validate your setup por favor. Gracias.

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Didnt know I needed validation There are a few more things I want to do before I dyno test it but it will definately be sometime this spring. Ill make a pass or two eventually. I am dropping the motor out soon and sending the mounting plate and a few other engine pieces to get powdercoated and then exhaust system ceramic coated.

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No it's more for me as I'm thinking of going this route eventually and would like to know that it is going to be worth it. I'm hoping to validate all the bolt-ons I've done this summer both on dyno and strip NA power but I'm not expecting much. If my suspicions holds true, FI will be next for me. Kudos to you for getting your ride up and going in a good time. Some work on these things and never get it running for 1-2 years.

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Yea i get what you are saying. Here is what I can tell you from only one night of real driving under the new set up. I was going to go a full blown NA track attack route style set up and enjoy that before going boost. I happened across it as a good deal and went for it. 1) It was more work than I had anticipated, but still relatively easy in the world of modifying cars, especially a 911. 2) It is definately more expensive than the bolt on option but is cheaper HP per dollar. 3) the sound... the sound is absolutely unreal. It doesn't sound like a TT, it sounds like a GT3 with a turbo slapped on it. It is so good. No video I have heard of the cars sounds like what they really do. The sound and awe factor it gives is worth it almost in itself. 4) I wish i had waited another year or two to do it. I mean this as it is not the same car. I have owned the car less than a year and have done this already. I didn't feel like I enjoyed the NA motor for all it was worth and jumped ship straight into this. The car is awesome in many ways but it isn't the same car at all. Still totally drivable but not the same. 5) Do it. You wont regret anything but the downtime it takes to slap everything together. If we ever get to a meet together, you can drive it and decide for yourself. I think your from chicago so that isn't unrealistic. PS, I absolutely love your car and is one of my favorite cars on this board. So clean....

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Thanks for the insights and comment. I only have like 1 small pic up on here on purpose as I generally don't like to post until there is something significant. I mean we can only comment on "stock" cars for so long. "ooooh, that looks really nice, like the other 85 people that posted a stock car pic before you" type of thing. Come this summer though, I'll have all my mods on and will start a build diary of some sorts to put it in one central place. Probably the first and last time I'll post pics of my ride.

Finally made it out and about but didnt have anyone to take some videos. My quick release for the rear bumper is almost done as is the exhaust hanger mounts.

More pictures! I know you have them...

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one or two

Nice! Do you drive around with the bumper off normally? Does the hose clamp really do anything?

Dude, get rid of that hose clamp and put the bumper back or. Looks so ghetto without it.

I normally run with te bumper on, my new exhaust flange isn't done being made so te hose clamp is just some ghetto support I used for the show.

Ok, so I replaced the MAF and filter with a dry unit and the car runs and drives great. Idles spot on and boosts in the appropriate AFRs. Now is the next problem (they keep gettign smaller which is good).... It keeps blowing my dipstick out of place. What is a proper way to ventilate/breathe the crankcase on these motors? I am nervous about this because I don't want the pressure build up to blow a seal on the car.

glad the MAF fixed it! where is the AOS/crankcase vent line running to? should be pre-turbo for best/(constant vacuum) results Cheers,

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Factory, but then again it was never recommended to move that line. I am going to do a catch can while I am at it. Just not quite sure about any of the vacuum lines on these cars.

Why not ask the maker of the turbo kit. If anyone, they should have the answer.

AOS vents to the intake manifold on Carrera's, correct? Won't work for a turbo application...needs to be between the air filter and turbo to pull constant vacuum. If the vent is post-turbo then you are pressurizing the crankcase. Catch-can is a great addition, but it won't do anything if above is not made right. Cheers,

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I have. Tom was out of the shop today and they will get back to me on that. I hvae looked over all their paperwork and bumpf and don't see anything relating to adjusting vacuum lines. Thanks for the insight. Hopefully I can touch base with Tom from TPC tomorrow and see what he has to say. Thanks!