PPI

Hey, So, looking to buy a 996 come spring. Its going to be my daily driver and learning to drive the car in New England in the winter just doesn't sound like the best idea. Anyway, reason for posting, looking around the net most cars aren't exactly local to me. There are some, but I think odds are better I'll be buying a car 300 miles away then 30 miles away. As a result I won't have a Porsche Mechanic I trust near by. I'm an engineer who does acceptence testing on large equipment, and have a few friends who are mechanics who I'm sure I could convice to go with me for a 6 pack or less. I'm wondering if getting a PPI would really be worth it should I drag someone along? What will your average PPI be able to look at that myself and my friend can't? Now to figure out how to do this finance thing and how to get the car back....

Do you consider yourself mechanically savvy with cars? If not, get a PPI. Even if you are mechanically savvy, if you aren't familiar with Porsches you should seriously consider one. The noise that you write off as being normal could be a wheel bearing or CV joint going bad, something that only someone with experience would notice. A good comprehensive PPI will also include a compression or leakdown test, as well as a DME scan for logged codes, overrevs, etc. All stuff that you can't do while looking at a car in a seller's driveway. I've bought a lot of cars at a distance. Get LOTS of photos up front, ask lots of pointed question. People tend to BS through vague questions but rarely lie when you ask direct ones. If buying from a dealership they nearly always lie about condition, I personally only buy from individuals. As for getting there, I usually do a one-way flight. If it's somewhere without major air service I will do a one-way rental car.

Look at some very recent Excellence magazines that identify a thorough PPI by a knowledgeable Porsche mechanic who is familiar with the nuances of your Porsche and model. Many PPIs are very basic in nature;tire wear,brake pad wear,obvious leaks, body damage, wipers etc. You can do that level of PPI.GL with your search.

Financing I would suggest PenFed. I cant imagine finding a better rate than what they are offering and they dont have limits on years/mileage Dont forget the option of RennFax. Many knowledgeable and helpful enthusiasts on here will take a look at something if its nearby. My PPI was thorough but missed a leaking front radiator. I assumed they would catch something like this, so have a list of items to check going in and have them verify each one in addition to what they would normally do.

So sounds like I can do a "standard" (read basic) PPI myself pretty easily. I'm not overly concerned about over-revs since if they are bad it will probably just take out the engine. What about things like clutch wear? or anything else mechanical that's hidden? As for financing, I'll keep PenFed in mind. What I was more concerned with is how does the whole system work should I go to look at a car. Typically I've always had cash in the glove box, and while I can do this, I don't plan on it. My parents have been the same way with paying cash up until the most recent car purchase where they just financed through the dealer. So basically lets say I am pre-approved for a loan and am standing infront of the car... now what?

I would take to a Porsche specialist that can plug it in and read the codes. I was looking at one , looked good , sounded good , turned out it had a cam chain deviation.

[QUOTE=redrider7202;10957495]So sounds like I can do a "standard" (read basic) PPI myself pretty easily. I'm not overly concerned about over-revs since if they are bad it will probably just take out the engine. What about things like clutch wear? or anything else mechanical that's hidden? Mild over-rev can stretch the weak oem rodbolts setting the stage for a spun rod bearing or broken rod bolt later. Nice to have the Durametric software with you when doing a self PPI

Mechanical - if your on here, you know about the usual IMS/RMS/AOS/water pump deals. Get specifics on if those have ever been replaced and when. Financing - Most will hold a car for X number of days with a deposit check. So get pre-approved from PenFed (let them know what info you have at the time and that you dont have a specific car yet). When you find the one you want, get PenFed the cars exact info and they will transfer you the money. It may sound complex, but this was my first time through and it was very easy

Cash is king, its worth a try to negotiate the asking price down with green in hand. Now go out and do the deal. GLWP

My past personal experience when buying a car/motorcycle using my credit union: * ensure seller knows in advance and agrees (will need his name in check). * meet seller and go with him to his/her bank * seller's bank verifies loan check and clears it * both parties sign Bill of Sale/DMV stuff (seller may ask to hold title until cash is actually in his account) * drive the car home Though not a 100% guarantee, a PPI is worth it IMHO.

Seems like picking up the Durametric kit and bringing along a mechanic friend (while not a porsche guy I think he would be very good at finding issues) would be a better option then the PPI. I'd have a mechanic I know and trust look at the car and I have the software for down the road when it comes to doing my own work. I'm starting to question the whole finance thing... the plan has always been to have the money, however to have it invested since beating the interest rate on the car loan seems pretty easy (actually I've already done it) these days, between the market climbing like crazy and loan rates being so low. (heck PenFed is advertising .99%) But as I said, I've always showed up to deal with a wad a cash in the glovebox. The numbers work but still...

You could also simplify the process by paying cash for the transaction and then refinancing it through PenFed, essentially a Cash Out loan on your car. IIRC, they do not bump the rate for that at all.