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YOUR RESEARCHOil selectuon
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Inspect not a trace of shiny bits
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
More importantly not metallic particles in the old oil and once I cut the old filter apart and inspected not a trace of shiny bits.
Leading evidence: 'Inspect not a trace of shiny bits' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check engine/bearing wear' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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That's what I use exactly and I use it because I read up all about oils before making my decision.
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Suggestion
I might add that I change my oil at 5000 intervals and cut open my oil filter to check for engine/bearing wear.
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Repair ..no new sales...large following of very loyal customers)
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Suggestion
And only do repair..no new sales...large following of very loyal customers) for 30k service nThey changed out the oil in the car to Motul 8100 x-cess 5W 40.
Repair ..no new sales...large following of very loyal customers)
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And only do repair..no new sales...large following of very loyal customers) for 30k service nThey changed out the oil in the car to Motul 8100 x-cess 5W 40.
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Suggestion
I was actually surprised that he didn't recommend his own oil change interval which I reckon to be around every 500 miles or every 3 months, whichever comes first.
It is also a little funny how he ended up having catastrophic engine failure at just over 50k miles (blown rings from what I remember) although I doubt it was related to his oil change intervals.
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33 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T112012Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Spanish porsche club result from google. Pretty flimsy but made some sense.
Here is some stuff I read.
Happy to use mobile 1 and follow the crowd but I'm curious of other options. Also, as I live in tokyo not sure if I can get stuff easily. Not sure I want to spend Japanese ���$$$ on a simple oil/filter change at the dealer.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2193712
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1807445
Cheers
Hey Tokyo, your car has 34,000 miles. It is not even broken in yet. Stick to the 0w40. If you don't want to pay the dealer for the oil changes, it is very simple to DIY. Climb under the car and look at your oil pan and oil filter.
seems like racing oil like Motul 300V is on the high end of oils but if it a lot more expensive, but if there are any good oil out there Motul 300V certainly is one of them, for which the manufacturer has no 'cost restriction' they just make the best and price is whatever it is.
Just a small note, the zinc was lowered in oils for newer cars because it can destroy your cats. I use ZR-1 in my airplane (it has an automotive based engine) which should help protect the cams, etc. But it, like older and most race engines, doesn't have catalytic converters. There's a reason that ZR-1 is billed as a racing oil...but that doesn't mean it's a better oil than Motul, etc., for street engines.
Run what you want. But it could cost you a lot more than an oil change. You're already using high end oils in your 996. It won't help to over-think oil choices.
So took the car into my non dealer mechanic here in Tokyo. Recommended by a buddy of mine.
Ended up with Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40 which came highly recommend. Judging from all the exotics in the shop seems the guys have a clue.
More importantly not metallic particles in the old oil and once I cut the old filter apart and inspected not a trace of shiny bits. 1 pin head lump of black something other than that all clear.
Now my mind is at ease after having the car four days on the road.
BTW the oil change cost me $300 all in with filter, disposal fee, oil etc. seems reasonable for Tokyo I guess.
That's what I use exactly and I use it because I read up all about oils before making my decision. I might add that I change my oil at 5000 intervals and cut open my oil filter to check for engine/bearing wear. Nothing as yet and I don't expect to find anything untoward in the near future. Good choice on your part. I never track my car or let the revs drop much below 2500 when driving. Never worry about how many miles to the gallon I get or even check. I sleep well. The engine is all original and running perfectly at 66500miles and I do my own preventative maintenance.
Not all "experts" are what they seem ! I speak from exp.
my .02 cents , my Ind. thinks that 15-50 or ( 20-50 I did Amsoil this time) in HOT Fl. is a better combo , to lube the IMS properly.
Just about to head into winter in a few short months so comfortable with my 5w40 choice. Maybe after winter and the hot summer in Tokyo I may re calibrate my choice but for now I'm confident with the grade.
Got my 03 996 cabrio back from a Porsche shop two weeks ago (they only service Porsche. And only do repair..no new sales...large following of very loyal customers) for 30k service nThey changed out the oil in the car to Motul 8100 x-cess 5W 40. I inquired why they weren't using Mobil 1 as I had read many times before on Rennlist that was a preferred oil by many. shop owner explained that Mobil 1 was refomulated and not what it used to be. they only use Motul now. Motul is hard to find in retail auto shops. was able to find on Amazon in quarts instead of buying large 5 quart containers. Good luck.
I dont think anyone has found the seals intact and not compromised on any OEM ISMB upon inspection or R&R. The plastic seals were not designed to resist hot motor oil.
Run the higher zinc, 5-40W oil, 3000K to 5000K (6 month) min oil change interval and its a non-issue. Dont, and you can live in fear of what comes next.
3000 mile oil change intervals with modern synthetic oils is insanity and a huge waste of time and money. You realize the these cars take twice as much oil as any other 3.6L engine out there, right? I assure you, it's nowhere near dirty or worn out after 3k miles.
I agree with you 100%. My acura is on 10k miles interval for 50k miles now with Royal Purple 5w20 and high capacity oil filter. No problem, and I never have to add oil between changes. And yes, acura is 3.2L V6 and only takes 4.8 quarts.
With porsches 3k changes make sense since people don't drive their cars at all. You see 30-50k miles on cars that are 10+ years old. The only way that mileage can happen is if car sits a lot and gets driven on weekends, or it only goes for short trips. Neither scenario is good for engine and engine oil. Replacing the oil every 3k on the car that does 3k miles per year makes sense.
3k miles driven on the freeway in one month with quality synthetic oil is nothing for the oil. 3k spread over 12 months is pushing it for any oil.
I was actually surprised that he didn't recommend his own oil change interval which I reckon to be around every 500 miles or every 3 months, whichever comes first.
On another note, my Zinc tablets that I bought at a health store seems to be holding up fine so far, that have been mixed in my oil.
his secret is he put a zerk fitting on the side of the block and greases the shaft everyday before and after running the engine.which come to think of it.....is a great idea....seeing that the elves from the black forest designed a sealed bearing that goes INSIDE OF AN ENGINE
KK is such a mystery. A wealth of technical information and a real resource for anyone doing a DIY project but then the self loathing doom and gloom. Don't get it.
Ahh but the real mystery is;
While I loathe the NA M96 engine for all its faults, mine continues to be very dependable, so maybe its from all the OCD preventative maintenance? Hmmmm?
Speaking of which, Friday got another present from Pelican. I need to get off here and replace all 4 front axle boots, sigh.
I disagree with the those that push the limits when it comes to miles with even synthetic oils. I've seen first hand what happens when you abide by some manufacturers 15k mile intervals, you end up with a lot of discoloration, and over time will see some oil cooked in crevaces. Compared to cars that kept to a 3k or 5k mile intervals, even over 150k miles after removing the valve cover seeing barely any golden coloration. I'm not an expert though, and my tin foil hat idea is that it may be a way for car manufacturers to ensure more maintenence on the engines after warranty = more $. Or just to grab more customers, that think "15K mile oil changes? much less often... count me in!"
It's one of the easiest, and cheapest maintainence items on a car. I've given a friend of mine a hard time about this when he stuck to BMW's 15k mile oil change interval. He was always the one to say "They know best"... it was funny showing him how stained his engine already was at 50k miles, when my 135k mile car at the time actually looked better with the valve cover off. It is also a little funny how he ended up having catastrophic engine failure at just over 50k miles (blown rings from what I remember) although I doubt it was related to his oil change intervals.
I've spent way too much on my car since taking ownership last year. Yet all it "needed" was a MAF sensor, and a new expansion tank off the top of my head.
I've had a similar "fix it before it breaks" mentality with all of my cars. They've all never left me stranded, maybe had a few tiny issues here and there, but no catostrophic failures. The only car that ever left me stranded despite taking good care of it was my only non-German car.
It'd be kind of funny thinking if all of the failures I aimed to prevent with all of my **** maintainence, would have never occured... that would mean I basically spent tens of thousands on things just to benefit the next owners. <This is likely... haha
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