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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHThe Mythical $17k 996 exists!
Leading reported evidence
Check mostly the later my
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
I am looking for a 996 now but checking mostly the later MY.
Leading evidence: 'Check mostly the later my' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check mostly the later my' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Paid $14K and it has no body dings, great paint and a very clean interior with every leather option offered.
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Suggestion
Or the guy that sensible when he buys a car and takes care of it and replaces things when it breaks or going to, not just because..
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Suggestion
The moron who replaces things just because when the parts hes taken off is more then fine to run another 100k miles?
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Suggestion
The moron who replaces things just because when the parts hes taken off is more then fine to run another 100k miles?
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51 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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It is a '00, in a weird color, with Savannah Beige interior, tiptronic, and 90k. But it looks clean and is listed for $16995.
This dealer usually has nice cars and good taste.
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/4000946402.html
Unusual color is right but not bad.
I found a 2001 with a Tip in Forest Green Metallic with 85K miles and the brown interior for $20.5K. I think one could buy it for at least a few $K less but not maybe $4K less.
There are a few on this board who continually claim these are everywhere and whoever posted about another car paid too much.
This is the first 911 in this price range that I have seen that actually looks to be a decent car. Others I've seen have all sorts of warning signs, signs the cheap Porsche will need thousand in repairs immediately.
There was a nice looking arena red w/grey interior manual car with 85kish for 16.5k listed not too long ago on autotrader and CL. It sold but it didn't go instantly even at that price.
I paid $17500 for my 99' 996 with 54K miles and IMS done. All stock/original silver on black 6 speed.
Pretty normal.
$20K buys you a lot of car these days with better performance and quality than a 996 non GT3/Turbo. I think the price is justified.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
sub 20 is easy... though I will say I've never seen this car in person and don't know its real history.
I like that color combo, it's classy.
There's a few sub-$20k 996s for sale in my area currently. The lowest is a $14k '99 with 185k miles on it (with original IMS for you doomsdayers).
Paid $14K and it has no body dings, great paint and a very clean interior with every leather option offered. I knew the trany would need a pinion bearing so I pulled it and had it rebuilt for $2K. Runs great, no oil leaks and doesn't use oil. Both cylinder heads were gone through last year by the PO and runs like a charm. I have taken it on several long trips and use it as a DD.
I would also point out that 3 years ago was in the middle of a really nasty recession when you would have a hard time giving these things away. You got a really good deal that is unlikely to be repeated in the near term. You certainly wouldn't be able to buy my '99 aero from me for that price today.
exactly who's standards? The moron who replaces things just because when the parts hes taken off is more then fine to run another 100k miles? Or the guy that sensible when he buys a car and takes care of it and replaces things when it breaks or going to, not just because.. Your statement ranks right up there with the other half dozen people that thing if you don't buy a car for $30k, its not going to run. Reality is these cars , 996's, non Turbo, are $20k-$25k cars at best... if you really think you got something way more expensive then that, your just trying to impress your friends and making up for your short coming.. Me, I walk around with a shovel in my pants.. so i really could guess less.
My 2002 cab, trip 60k mile car with everything working just fine was less the $20k... you know what I do with it?? go get parts for my other cars and go to dinner in it.. its basically my beater car. The 996 are nice to have. but really nothing super special about them..only morons and politicians would just spend $10k on a car they just bought, just because.. which one are you??
Really? I always assume that the first MY has the most problem. What are the othe reasons? I am looking for a 996 now but checking mostly the later MY. Any info will be very helpful. Thanks.
Yup, plus they were lighter and the LSD option was available. You might hear of some having engine block issues, but any car that's on the road now does not have that issue.
Any '99 that is still on the road now is rock solid and the best 996 buy.
I picked up a silver on black '99 with Sport Design wheels, Litronic and LSD with 76k from a dealer in PA for $16. Turns out it needed an AOS and some patching of wires for the tank pressure sensor, but I do all my own work. I spent 4 months trying to find the right car. Some poo poo the interior of the '99 as looking cheap, but I drive the car not look at the interior.
Personally, I think the best 996 value is any clean, well-maintained car with somewhere around 100k miles on it. Everyone is scared of them as if they are going to magically fall apart because some arbitrary mileage number has been reached, so the values plummet.
This mostly true for buyers that can't do their own repairs. Those that turn their own wrenches, mileage is unimportant, service history and/or price is the deciding factor. The 996 demographics is slowly shifting to the DIY owners and a shift in attitude toward the magical 100K miles will be changine too.
The only car out of 6 in my garage that has less than 100K miles is my son's 1987 951. Any 7+ year old car (of any brand/model) with 75,000 miles is just as prone to break as the same car with 101,000. The 101,000 mile car will always be about 25% cheaper (sometimes even less). Depreciation will be less too, when it come time to sell as the 75,000 mile car will cross that magic 100,000 mile mark while you own it, whereas the 101,000 mile car just turns into a 130,000 mile car (so you're competing for the same type of buyer). Condition is the key, mileage means little, once a car gets older.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
http://images.craigslist.org/00D0D_hJ2vSwHEKmy_600x450.jpg
http://assets.clickmotive.com/inventory/inventory/dealers/WebIOL2/2000026/2059886/640x480/33015/1FALP52U0VA205542/9b98626080be469aa56d3bca43b809bd!20130305184807000.jpg?w=750
Do a lot of posters here do their own wrenching? Does the engine have to come out for most things? It seems like the most talked about repairs are serious ones like engine rebuild, etc.