New clutch and flywheel questions

Hi, I need a new clutch and am thinking about doing the flywheel as well, I would like to get a setup that gives me the following things 1) High performance clutch and lightwieght flywheel 2) Reduce the clutch pedal travel (im not sure if this is possible) Is a high performance clutch going to last a longer or shorter time than stock, also what advantages will I see with the lightweight flywheel, any disadvantages? Any recommended setups would be great, also while the work is being done is there anything else I should do to the engine? Thanks in advance AC

getting ready to do my clutch as well and everything i've read so far as led me to this...for a daily driver DO NOT do lightweight flywheel as it has no benefits, i was also looking towards aftermarket clutches as have decided to go with an OEM SACHS replacement...hopefully when i pull it apart flywheel is OK

and as far as additional things to be done, i was told to do plugs, filters, and to consider an RMS replacement...my car is a 65k mile 99 carrera

Why do you need/want a high performance clutch? Whay HP do you have...if you were pushing some serious HP I would understand, but not for your car. You want the clutch to engage faster?...there are ways to adjust the clutch for this. The high performance clutch will last longer for high HP cars....I suppose that will be true of lower hp cars as well.. LWFW is for reducing rotational mass and therefore allowing for less power to be "used" to move the engine's internals...thus more power during acceleration. I believe Sachs is the OEM clutch for Porsche....so their products will work great...if you want more clutch than your car needs get the stage 2 GT3-RS clutch package from Kevin @ UMW.

This is the same advice I've heard from everyone I've spoken to. Stick with Sachs (OEM) clutch for every day driving. Lightweight flywheels provide quicker revs, but this can also be done thru ECU tuning on eGas versions of the 996 (02+). A colleague of mine installed a GT3 clutch with lightweight flywheel in his 996TT and it feels great, except in every day driving at the stop light. With the clutch disengaged, there is an ever so subtle "tinny" sound. It goes away whenever the clutch or throttle are engaged. ____________________ SpeedPhreak 02 996 C2 - K&N Aircharger, B&M SSK, Tubi Manifolds and Sport Mufflers

hey speedphreak...how do you like the K&N? nobody here like them and i've used there products on every car i've owned...primarily diesels

I love it. It was one of the first mods I put on the car. The intake sound was pretty good over 3000 RPM, but overall net performance was negligible. Though, I did achieve 4.7 sec 0-60 and 13.12 sec 1/4 times with 100 octane race gas sans spare tire. Was a little paranoid in the rain at first, but never took the weather sheath off. I think people who remove that and over-oil the filter run the risk of getting all kinds of gunk into the intake tube, MAF, throttle body and down stream into the engine. That's probably where most of the negative feedback has comes from. (If you don't know why it's there, don't *&^! with it or accept the consequences.) Still happy 13 months after having it installed. Cheap way to get good acoustics and mild performance in the mid-range, but no top-end benefit. Heard of issues with pre-2002 996 installs mostly related to improperly re-connecting the MAF wiring harness. Just like any other mod, know what you're getting into before you take it on. This board has been awesome for that. SpeedPhreak

just did the whole analysis, and ended up with stock factory parts. my shop actually installed an entire kit with lwf, and it made noises. that was a no no in my instructions to them. out it went and back to dmf. btw, my egine was bone dry from the outside. when they dropped the tranny, they found seepage from the rms, so the put in the new seal. happy as a clam.

I added the upgraded clutch to take the added stress from the LWFW....... I'm glad I did.... If you can take the cement mixer noise from the LWFW it's a great upgrade performance wise.... One drawback is it likes the higher RPM's and that doesn't lend itself to street driving... my car spends more time at the track than on the street... and when it's on the street I just live with it... Cheers.

is the correct part number for the factory sachs kit K70246-01 for a 99 Non turbo carrera c-2 ? and is $394.00 a good price ?

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How can the clutch be adjusted to engage faster? I'd love to change this on my car. My clutch engage point is too close to the end of my pedal way.

I like it engaging higher than lower. All cars I've owned engaged at around the same point. S2000, M3, 911. The 911 is the stiffest stock clutch. I had a stiffer aftermarket clutch on the supercharged S2000.

Someone said that there was a way to adjust the clutch to engage faster? This is a hydraulic clutch, and I was told that there is absolutely no way to adjust it. It is what it is. Mine engages a bit high, and after checking with the dealership and some indys, I was told that there is no adjustment.....the only adjustment being a new clutch if it's slipping.

Let me clarify...you can replace clutch fluid, bleed the lines and this will often change the engagement point...not a specific adjustment.

I am getting a clutch kit installed this week. I have decided to go with a SPEC stage 1. I have been running a 3tage 3+ on my rx7 for a year and love it. Has nayone else on here ever used the SPEC in a Porsche? I might be the first. I found a local shop to do the install and RMS for $1100 and that includes a Porsche tech over seeing the job.. If you decide to DIY I can post showing step by step on it. But for 1100 I can not pass it up. The shop has done a GT2 clutch before so I feel they are qualified.

The LWF will also change the feel of the engagement from the dual-mass crap that Porsche uses. Instead of the spongy imprecise engagement you will actually be able to feel the clutch engage with the flywheel and it will be consistent through the entire engagement. Also, bcs the LWF weighs less, as mentioned above, you can reduce the rotational mass and thereby increase the actual power that is being transmitted to the wheels across the RPM range. You cannot do that with a flash of the ECU, it is simply a mechanical phenomenom. The LWF will also spin up faster. Frankly, it is the best mod I have made to this car, bar none. Also, the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel install are easy jobs. 1100 for that job is not a great price when you consider that the book rate for an R&R of the engine is less than 10 hours. Removing the transaxle is significantly easier.

all 3 shops i spoke with say book time on the clutch is 5.3 hours. a good porsche tech quoted me actually 3.5 hrs to do the job although the shops in my area are charging 5-6 hours and indy's are $80-$90 an hour and dealers are $100-$115 an hr. so $1100 isnt bad at all. supposed dealer cost on the sachs kits is like $450.00. so with that said $90 x 5.3 = $477 + $450= $927 NOT including the RMS or tax

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Spot on description viper..............

So based on this it sounds like a LWF is a great mod so long as you take take a bit of extra sound at idle (Im fine with that). As for the clutch would I see significantly better wear out of a stage 1 or 2 vs stock? I like the feel of performance clutches and am 6'8" so anything I can do to reduce pedal throw would be great. AC

The downside to a high performance clutch/LWF is more than just noise. Like so many other modifications, LWFs and high performance clutches will improve performance but you might not like the effect on day to day driving. At least consider how far to go. Obviously the flywheel is there to regulate how fast your car gains and loses RPMs. Gaining RPMs fast is good. Loosing them fast isn't so good on the street. With a light LWF you really need to blip the throttle on every downshift. Maybe you do this already but maybe not. Even on upshifts, do it leisurely and your LWF engine will lose enough RPMs that you'll be lugging when you want to be going. If you like driving the car aggressively all the time, this is really cool. If you like just cruising around or drive a lot in traffic, you might find it pretty irritating. A high performance clutch will have pads with much higher friction coefficients than the stock Sachs. That means the clutch will grab much more aggressively. Ever see someone start out in a cup car. It’s rev the engine up, drop the clutch and away you go with a big jerk and often a little chirping from the tires. Cool at the track but probably not that cool on the street. Obviously the effect of a street high performance clutch will be less but you get the idea. Bottom line, I love racing clutches and light flywheels at the track but I’d never put either in my street car. I’m not saying you shouldn’t. Just know that if the flywheel is light enough and the clutch sticky enough to really improve performance, the car will be harder to drive on the street. Jim

From what I am reading the LWF will solve the (only) two b!tches I have about my car....sluggish throttel repsonse and clunky dual mass fylwheel engagement. I kind of wish my car hasn't already got a new clutc now.

JimB, I have to disagree with you about the LWF and street driving. I drive my car every day to and fro. I've never had to 'blip' the throttle to shift. Although, I do sometimes like to sit at a light and blip the throttle so I can listen to her rev a bit. The one thing that I have noticed is that I have had two occasions where the car stalled apparently due to the IAC valve being unable to anticipate the quicker than normal drop in RPM's. Both of these occured when coming out of gear as I approached a stop. hdtwncam88, if that price includes all of the parts, you're right. Not a bad deal. I was thinking you were paying that for labor only. As to the clutch material and stage 1, 2 or whatever, I am using a stock OEM replacement clutch and flywheel. No problems with engagement whatsoever. One other thing that I have done, some time ago, is to remove that damn helper spring. I don't mind the concept but Porsche really put way too much assistance in that thing.

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Viper, I'm glad its working for you. I suppose the trick is to get light but not too light. Jim

JimB, I think you're on the money there. There is such a thing as too light. 4 or 5 pounds for a flywheel is too little for street driving. The AASCO is about 14 pounds which works pretty well.

Is the LWF dual mass? If not, then the disc is not sprung either? I would imagine the clutch engagment would be abrubt since neither one is sprung.

squid, the hub is not sprung and the flywheel is a single mass. You would think that there could be harshness but so far I haven't experienced it. The engagement is smooth and very consistent linearly. I suspect that there is possibly slightly greater wear from slippage of the clutch during engagement but it is so much briefer and easier to modulate than with the Dual-mass that I don't think it will make any difference in the life-span of the clutch disc. Of course, I'm not doing burnouts and 6k rpm clutch dumps either.

Does anyone know if the Stage 1 or 2 Sachs Kevlar clutch requires anymore pedal pressure that the straight OEM? And is the OEM the same as a Stage 1?

Is there a difference between an OEM Sachs clutch and Stage 1 in a Porsche 996 Turbo?

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You'd probably have better response if you posted this in the 996 Turbo forum. While I have a 996 Turbo I know nothing about the clutch options for it. I just had the RMS replaced and while the transmission was out the clutch hardware was inspected and all found just fine, with hardly any wear at all. Oh, with 110K miles of use too. For me and my needs the stock clutch with the stock engine is just fine.