Convertible top lower "ball" connection

Hi all. I'm having some issues with the top in my '99 996 cab. Maybe someone out there car help, I'd really appreciate it. Searches on Rennlist so far have not helped much... Part I The "ball" screw the holds the cable in the back of the convertible top on the drivers side has come out. This is the short cable that is anchored just above the engine and attached to the bottom lip area of the back of the top. Unfortunately the screw with a ball on the end came unscrewed from the top's frame (it was still attached to the short cable which when I found it) , even more unfortunately when I went to put it back where it belonged, there was no thread to screw into. I'm guessing that there is a nut on the inside of the frame that as fallen off and that is why there is no thread. Any ideas on this? I hope I've been clear, its hard to describe. Ive attached a photo of the ball-screw that fell out. As things are now, the top is only anchored on one side of the car. Part II On the passenger side, where the canvas meets the lower (back) frame, the canvas keeps coming out of the channel in the frame that goes around the bottom rear of the roof. There is a rubber gasket that runs around the frame and there is plastic shim that does the same. It seems that the canvas is just pressure held into the frame at this point. Even after I have put the canvas back in the channel with the shim, it eventually gets pulled out again. Could this mean that there is too much tension on the top from the front? Any ideas out there? Thanks much in advance.

Gees you have me scratching my head on this one. I know exactly the bobble type hook up on either side of the hood above the engine compartment. Are you sure you cannot screw it back into the body part or find a thin nut to screw onto it from the back somewhere? short of that it would have to be welded back in place for it to hold tight. I presume you have the top in service mode and the back shelf cardboard effect sill, out of the car to see it properly. I can see mine screws in to the side and towards me as I stand at the rear wheel. Now the second problem. Not sure, but is the front end of the cable part adjustable to release pressure from the canvas to stop it from pulling out? If so maybe the PO had them too tight and when the top closes in the up position, it may have torn the bobble screw free. If so the inset is stripped. They both have to be in place to put even pressure all over the top otherwise it will pull hard on one side a pull the canvas out in that spot on the photo. My only suggestion would be. firstly fix the bobble in place then work on making the cable slightly long via an adjustment if there is one. The missing bobble caused the second problem I would think. Probably because there was no pressure from that area of the canvas and the secure bobble pulled the canvas out from underneath it's anchoring point around passenger side. Good luck mate. Wish I could help more.

Thanks for the ideas. Really appreciate the help. This is a bit of a frustrating problem. Yes I have the car in services mode, unfortunately there does not seem to be a way to get to the back of where the bobble screws into the frame. It appears that I may have to take part of the frame off in order to get to where I need to. You are right it is possible that the threads that the bobble screw goes into may be stripped although it feels more like whatever nut is back there may have just fallen out of position. I can't really tell... I've attached some pics if you (or anyone else out there) have any more ideas they would be greatly appreciated!!! The first pic shows the bobble in the passenger side frame as it should be. The second shows the drivers side - sans bobble.

I'm learning about J-B weld epoxy. The easy way out.

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LOL. I always kept JB Weld in the side cases of my BMW motorcycle. If I went down, and scraped through the cylinder heads, given enough time and patience, I could use the JB weld to "fix" the heads. It's a wonder chemical.

so you know the epoxy weld could be the permanent solution to replacing the bobble screw. It doesn't have to turn in any direction, the bobble part does the moving. I hope you manage to get the canvas back into the correct position on the second problem. All that could be done before putting the cable back onto the bobble. Hopefully then, equal pressure should be coming from both sides and hopefully the canvas will stay under the lip. You can only try.. let us know what happens.

I should have time to give it a try in the next day or so and will let you know how it goes. Epoxy is wonderful stuff!

I have used split lock washers to secure screws where I could not get to the back side to affix a nut properly. It takes some fiddling, but it works. You just put a small nut and a large split washer on the screw, then "spiral" the split washer into the hole. Once you tighten it, the split washer compresses and can't come out. I'm not sure if there is space for it with your ball end screw, but you could try it.

Thanks for the great idea. Could you help me picture your solution? In what order would I put the small nut and split washer on the screw? Would the split washer be just wide enough to go into the hole? Would the ideal nut be small enough to go into the hole and freely spin?

http://www.sears.com/helicoil-thread...a=00920978000P

The Helicoil is a cool solution. youtube has some nice videos demonstrating the helicoil.

It's been several years since I fixed mine .But as I remember it-the ball stud is held by a nut in the aluminum frame .It is not that difficult to separate the top from the frame - find the nut and screw it back together .I seriously doubt JB weld will hold it .

From what I can tell, there are multiple bolts that hold the two sections of the frame together. Additionally, the edge of the canvas would have to be removed from its groove which would involve removing the large rubber gasket as well as the "shim" that runs in the groove with the edge of the top. I'm a bit nervous about taking so much of the top apart (essentially the entire rear of the top), especially taking the edge of the canvas out of its groove in the frame. Not sure I will be able to properly get it back in. That is definitely the correct way to fix it though...

I had to take my top off to replace the rear window -so I was into a major project anyway .It might be worth talking to a dealer tech and see if Porsche recommends a work around .If the JB weld doesn't work you are back to the same place .Other point since the top was previously installed the alignment is clear .It's just tedious work .

There might be an easier way -rivet nut .The question is -is there enough depth in the aluminum frame to properly seat the nut .This can be easily measured with a piece of wire .If you go that route you need to buy or rent the install tool -these things take a lot of pressure to collapse .

Here's how I've done it (in a different situation) using a split lock washer. You need to "spiral" the split lock washer through the hole, then you pull up on the hex bolt to begin to compress the lock washer. That holds the lower nut in place so you can tighten the entire thing. Not sure if it works in your situation, but it's worth a shot. Good luck.

Wow. Thanks for the diagram! Also thats a very cool trick.

Very clever!

So I just had this idea. What if I use a small pickup tool with a magnet on it to fish out the nut ( I assume there is a nut) inside the channel where it is loose. I may be able to bring it to the position closest to where the ball screw would go into it. Maybe I could get some loctite on the face of the nut so it would stay in place and I could then thread the screw into it. Sound doable?

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Certainly worth a try. What about a small dremel to cut away the back end of the cavern to find the loose nut from the back. Move the carpet and slice down and then in at the bottom. Two cuts. Can you see into that part from the engine compartment under the rear lips anywhere? Porsche had to be able to secure a washer on there (If there is one.) Or the actual body is threaded.

This ball end bolt is not shown as a separate component but as part of the top frame. I'm betting it loosened up over time and wallowed out the threads in aluminum die cast member. JB or epoxy does not have the integrity to repair this due to its pulling and loading. What I would do. Chances are there was no nut. If the hole is easily accessible, threaded insert may work. You will need to drill and tap the existing hole. I'd be inclined to make a new ball bolt with a larger threaded shank, tap the hole, and locktite it in place.

There is a nut .Mine was loose and I tightened it when I had the top off .What I don't remember is how thick the perch is .Nick's idea will work if the perch is thick enough .I am pretty sure a rivet nut will also work if there is enough depth to seat it before collapsing it .The frame is aluminum so need a little depth for the threads.

OK so I just finished the job. The ball screw is back in its place. A LOT of work for a small little ball. So here is how I did it. It turns out that there is a nut inside the "tension" frame ( the one that runs the width of the car and defines the lower part of the back ot the top). The frame is made of three main parts, one large bow and two straighter hinge pieces that attached to the hinges on either side of the car. The nut that mates with the ball screw is located between the bow and a hinge portion of the frame. Three T25 torx screws hold the hinge portion to the bow portion of the frame. I removed these on both sides of the frame, also I removed the two bolts (one on either side of the car) that hold on the rubber rain gasket. Once the frame was apart on both sides, there was enough play to separate the hinge portion from the bow portion of the frame and gain access to the back of the ball screw nut. I then installed the nut and screwed the ball screw into place. Unfortunately the rear portion of the top came out of its channel in the frame so after I put everything back together, the top had to be reseated as well. The whole process was a bit frustrating for one little screw. Probably should have put loctite on it...