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YOUR RESEARCHBrake and Coolant flush quote $400
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Install then the car is road tested
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The wheels are installed then the car is road tested.
Leading evidence: 'Install then the car is road tested' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is '"brake bleed"' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install then the car is road tested' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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my indi replaced the coolant tank on my 996 Cab and I don't think he did a full flush even then.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
No offense to you, but what you did at most was probably a "brake bleed".
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Suggestion
The tech uses the extended wheel rods to prevent the wheel from dropping onto the brake rotor.
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I got a quote for a $400 brake and coolant flush quote from the dealer. Is this a good price? I got one for my Boxster around the same price, but I understand that the Boxster is supposed to be harder since the engine is in the middle. Is it supposed to be the same for the 911? I just don't have the time to do it anymore....
if u can't DIY and do not have an indi, just PTM ( pay the man) !
honestly, I helped my indi out with my brake flush and it took all of 15-20 minutes ( we did not have to remove wheels). SRF fluid is expensive as is the Porsche ( or Audi equivalent) coolant.
Coolant flush may be a bit more labor intensive if you are going to drain ALL the coolant from the front rads and then go thru the purging procedures. my indi replaced the coolant tank on my 996 Cab and I don't think he did a full flush even then. IF I were to have this service done, I'd at least like to see them do it right, not cut corners.
15-20 min for a "brake flush"? No way. No offense to you, but what you did at most was probably a "brake bleed". But even still, 15-20 min is way too low especially when there are two brake bleed points per caliper. Maybe you meant for EACH wheel? But that would seem too much.
You're correct. Brake fluid was bled from the reservoir to the calipers at only one of the fittings; so, not a true 100% "brake flush". We did not have to raise the car, just remove old fluid from the reservoir, top off with fresh fluid so it can circulate thru the system, plug in the old brake fluid receiving jug hose to the fitting, crack the bleeder screw and methodically pump the brake pedal 18-20 times and keep the reservoir topped off at all times. 30 minutes, all 4 wheels, with very little clean-up, max........
I'm sure it's difficult to get 100 % of the old fluid out unless the entire caliper is flushed from both fittings. Probably closer to a 1-1.5 hour job. If I were to pay for a brake flush, I would definitely like to observe the mechanic ( dealer or indi) doing a full flush. In my case, I only paid for the SRF... I'll ask my indi about bleeding the second fitting .
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As I mentioned before, if you are going to pay $XXX, make sure they don't cut corners...
That's not a bad price from what I recall.
The tech siphons some fluid out of the reservior, connects the pressure bleeder, lifts the car up and removes the wheels, starts the bleeder and walks around with a can to catch the old fluid as he opens each bleed nipple. If the car has a manual transmission he raises the car higher and bleeds the clutch slave cylinder.
The coolant is drained and a special machine is connected to the car's coolant tank which pulls a vacuum on the cooling system. Enough I've been told to collapse the hoses. Then the valve to the vacuum pump is closed and the one to the reservoir with fresh coolant opened. This reservoir is open to atmospheric pressure which forces the coolant out of the tank into the engine's cooling system.
The system is filled in nearly no time with no air pockets.
Coupled with fluid costs and labor $400 doesn't seem bad at all.
The bleeding maybe.
But not the entire job. The car has to be lifted, the wheels removed. The tech uses the extended wheel rods to prevent the wheel from dropping onto the brake rotor.
The car is lowered and some fluid siphoned out.
The bleeder is connected and started.
The tech walks around and opens each bleed nipple until the fluid flows clear and bubble free.
The car is raised and the clutch slave bled.
The car is lowered and the bleeder is disconnected and the fluid level topped up. The wheels are installed then the car is road tested. Then washed.
30 minutes for all that? Maybe if your name is Flash Gordon.
$400 seems reasonable.
Consider that the materials alone will cost about $120 retail (best internet prices, anyway)--3 gallons of a Porsche-approved coolant (plus 3 more of distilled water) at $35/gallon, and 1 quart of brake fluid at $15 (ATE Blue or ATE Gold). Then doing the labor as Macster describes, which is the proper way.
With experience you can probably bleed down the brakes/clutch in about an hour. Then add the time/labor to do the coolant system. I'd guesstimate 2 to 2-1/2 hours, which at $100-$150/hr (indy versus dealer labor rates) puts you at $400.
Final thought. Bleeding just one caliper, as one poster had done, is incorrect. The hydraulic system is not a circulating system if I recall correctly. You must bleed each side of each caliper, and the clutch slave cylinder, to get the old fluid out.
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